Jaydrvr
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Posts posted by Jaydrvr
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8 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:
The trailers or Jack and Henry???
Lol lol lol.. That's funny!
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On 3/21/2024 at 5:57 PM, lappir said:
I'm sure Jack had one, as did Henry. I had the Grand Tour of Henry's at my first HDT Rally.
Rod
Oh yes, I had completely forgotten that Henry had one, too. I would think most of them are too old by now to be viable. Jay
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I think Jack Mayer started with a Royals International. You might check out his website. I looked at them, but they were too dated for my taste. Jay
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Have you considered swapping out your hard drive for an SSD? I did that with my ten plus years old laptop and it transformed it. Now it boots up in seconds, not minutes and is perfectly functional for the things I do. Happy with the result. Also, more RAM always helps. If you're annoyed with long boot times, you could just put in in sleep or hibernation. I almost never turn off my computers. Jay
Re: Your poll, I don't think there is a best, just what works best for each individual.
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1 hour ago, Dapperdan said:
Hello, I'm looking for some travel advice, we're in the Florida Panhandle now and will be traveling south to the Orlando, Winter Haven area. Right now we're in Fort Walton Beach and we are looking to stop over in Lake City Florida in a couple of weeks. My question is, looking at the map we could take HWY 20 east out of Niceville Florida towards Tallahassee, picking up I-10 there and then getting on I-75 heading south. Is HWY 20 a "trailer friendly" route or should we be using I-10 all the way? We're pulling a 39' fifth wheel with a pick up.
Thanks in advance for any insight.
Dan
As I recall... Rt 20 is a full sized road and I've been on much of it with my commercial truck and trailer with zero issues. It's a pleasant, if slow way to go. It's only slower because of the towns, etc., but very enjoyable. Hope my memory is still accurate.... Jay
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1 hour ago, Randyretired said:
That is a typical response. The jurisdiction wants someone to pay for upgrades before approving a new lot. A new subdivision went in that adjoined our property. These lots were selling for around $120,000. We wanted to add 2 more lots from our property to the subdivision. We were told the county had relaxed many of their requirements as they wanted growth in this area so we met with them. The relaxed requirements they wanted were estimated to cost $500,000 to $750,000 to add these 2 lots. Seems the roads and water lines to the area were not up to new codes and would require extensive upgrades and any addition no matter how small would need to remedy that.
I guess they didn't ACTUALLY want growth all that much.. Jay
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11 hours ago, lappir said:
Are you attending the next National Rally? I don't want to own one, but when they used one at the ECR I think it was a big hit. I'd contribute to a fund to have it travel to all the rallies.
Rod
I've been trying to get to the Rally for years and something always gets in the way. Sometimes it's fairly minor and sometimes it's catastrophic. Since I'm retiring and slowing down, the chances of my making it are getting slimmer, but we'll see. Jay
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Inficon Whisper air leak detector for HDT, etc. Used a couple of times, still like new in box. Retiring and no longer needed. Free shipping to all 48 states. $235.00
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2 hours ago, markandkim said:
92000 hours or miles on it?
Says clock.
That's often another way of referring to the odometer. I assume that's the case here. Jay
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I have carried as much as $1000.00, but I would never have tens of thousands in cash. It's all too common for LEO's to use civil asset forfeiture to take all your cash and accuse you of a crime. Then it's up to you to prove your innocence and it may take months or years and lots of $$$$ to get it back. I have enough other problems to deal with... Jay
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11 hours ago, Refuzn-To-Grow-Up said:
Duplicate
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1 hour ago, Refuzn-To-Grow-Up said:
Chet, I just sent you a PM. I tried attaching the photo of the fuse panel to the PM, but the photo was too large.
I am still trying to find out how to post large photos
Start with this..
Once you've created a link from that, use the OTHER MEDIA tab to inset your new link where it says insert image from URL. You'll need to strip off the [IMG] from the front and back first. Jay
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1 hour ago, stevekk said:
Thanks... Amazon has it, the Xantrex model. But very pricey at $139.
Sorry to hear on his passing. The Trim-L-Start was a very popular item on the Born Free Forum, and even added on at the Born Free Factory new models when they were still in business.
Ebay has it, but more money.
What is your opinion on whether this is a "must have" item for my Class C?
I used the Xantrex echo charger for some time and wasn't impressed with it. A dedicated stand alone system works much better, at least it certainly did for me. Jay
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Apparently, it was a one man operation and the one man passed on.. Jay
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/116417/
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11 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:
Years ago on this forum I think there was a replacement that was gear drive, for truck engine. I think they were Densco?
But I did find this for Volvo truck engines.
BBB Part Number: 137179-05760189
Mitsubishi and others make a gear reduction starter, definitely the cool way to go. They're half the weight, easier to install, lower current draw, higher spin speed and have an awesome sound. Jay
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4 hours ago, Refuzn-To-Grow-Up said:
Thanks. I will look for it tomorrow and check it out.
Since it is in the engine compartment, I am guessing it might be one of those round metal can solenoids, as opposed to the plastic relays that I saw in the dash fuse box.
The ones I've dealt with are black plastic and look like the ones inside the dash, in the fuse panel. Jay
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Since the voltage is not dropping when you turn the key, it appears you're not getting any current to the starter. That suggests to me that your starter relay isn't working. It's on the front side of the firewall, just down and to the right (passenger side) of the steering column - at least on my first gen truck, plus others I've seen. In my experience, it's common for the dash lights to go out while cranking, probably to conserve cranking amps. Jay
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That's really awesome! Good on you for doing the good work that someone needs to do. Reminds me of another life when my kids were young and my late wife and I had energy. Thanks for your contribution. Jay
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35 minutes ago, Chalkie said:
It is accessed via https:// and in the connection it is as secure as a connection to say your bank. Now, granted this connection is to a forum with lots of members and therefore what you say is shared among others and may find its way elsewhere, but yes, it is a secure site in internet terms.
Of course you're right, but as a practical perspective it's just not something I've considered here. To me it's just basically a chat room where we're trying to keep out riff raff and scammers. Jay
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48 minutes ago, melon said:
I would really love some qualified help, but unfortunately I just can't afford it. That's why I'm trying my damnest to figure out what component might be shot so that I might have the chance of replacing a small component rather than having no fridge all summer. I do apologise for my lack of knowledge, but am nothing if not persistent and with some kind and generous help I'm sure I can at least save myself paying a diagnostic fee just to be told that the whole thing is wrecked and should be put in the bin.
Unfortunately I don't have a proper multimeter, just a little device that tests for the DC - it displays either low (under 5) medium (5-10) or high (12). When I said active current, i just mean that I got live readings from all of the points I tested on the circuit board. I can't remember if they were all 12 or not. Would a reading under 12 indicate an issue with that particular point?
There are dozens of inexpensive but functional meters available online that will work well. Here's just one. You need accurate readings to tell what's going on. Jay
AstroAI Multimeter Tester 2000 Counts Digital Multimeter with DC AC Voltmeter and Ohm Volt Amp Meter ; Measures Voltage, Current, Resistance; Tests Live Wire, Continuity https://a.co/d/53watmo
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32 minutes ago, Deezl Smoke said:
So, without looking it up online, I believe 14' is the federal limit? And anything under has to be stated with signage? So even 13'6", though not low clearance, has to be stated prior to the last detour.?
When I bought an older 12'6" van trailer for storage years ago, in discussion with the seller, it was said that most states east of the mighty Mississippi, have to this day, many 12'6" bridges and over passes, or even lower? West of the Mississippi, 14' is the engineering norm, with 13'6" trailers also being the norm.?
Rule of thumb as I worked nationwide, everything east of the Mississippi is 13'6", almost everything west of the Mississippi is 14'. That holds pretty well true as long as you're on normal truck routes. The only place I saw significant deviations from this was in the northeast, NY being the most difficult to navigate. Then, for a long time, NY intentionally undercut the numbers on their signage to minimize liability, so you had no idea what the clearance actually was. I was delivering to Brooklyn in the early nineties and the huge sign said 12' 6", but all truck traffic was going there anyway. I asked a traffic cop about it and she said, yeah, they're all like that. Just ignore them. Easier said than done.... Jay
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10 hours ago, Chalkie said:
This is a secure site.
Lol,, that's funny. I guess in a technical sense, but there's nothing here we're worrying about protecting. Jay
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I haven't logged out in years. It's not a secure site, so it never occurred to me. Maybe there's a good reason to?? Jay
INFICON Whisper, Ultrasonic Leak Detector, like new $225.00
in RV Accessories for Sale
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