porthole

Don't quite understand that. 'If' the antenna locks onto 119 would the correct skew not automatically lock 110 and 129?

‘Nuclear option’ terminology seems a bit much name wise. But, I pretty much do that all the time. Always the same results. Only 2 SAT’s And it’s not a display of 3 columns showing green checks in two columns and red X’s in one, it is only two columns displayed.

Yes, that's part of getting the control unit to convert the turret electronically.

Looking for DISH experts..... My system is currently wired as shown in the graphic below and the TV's work as expected - almost. I have a Hopper 3 at my house that is aimed at the 2 eastern arc satellites 61 & 72 with a hybrid LNB.One wired and one wireless Joey for 3 TV'sI have a pre 2018 Trav'ler for DirecTV.I replaced the LNB arm with the western arc LNB and reflector conversion parts.The pre 2018 units supposedly do not work with the DISH change out parts.The work around is to add a DHP42 switch and Hybrid hub.After doing the electronics update in the Trav'ler control box the antenna will search and lock on to the 3 western arc satellites in about 5 minutes.All three satellites display on the control box with an asterisk.The Hopper 3 is supposed to be compatible with either the western or eastern arc satellites.When I put the Hopper in the RV and do a test installation the system will go through the checks and then show that it has "verified" the DHP42 and displays satellites 110 and 119. There are only 2 columns and 129 does not show up anywhere.The TV's on the Hopper and the wired Joey work fine but with the lack of HD channels and whatever else is carried on 129.As a result it appears that the the Hopper is not using 129 which is mostly the high def channels.So my main question is - how do I force the Hopper to see, display and use all the satellites on the western arc?Note: when bringing the Hopper back in the house and running a new test installation I am back to the eastern arc satellites and all work fine.Note 2:I have been trying throughout a recent trip with no difference in results.From Delaware to southern GA near the FL line, western GA, Stone Mountain GA, Sevierville, TN, Kitty Hawk NC and back to DE. Those locations should cover all the necessary line of site issues.

The hf chocks are a blatant copy of the BikePro brand, of which I also have two of. But after trying one Condor I ordered a second one and haven't used the Bike Pro's since.

I have two Condor's and when I'm home I use one in the garage and always park the bike on it.

I use a Condor, which as I mentioned above is not bolted down. 5 straps total for each bike. Two from the driving lights going out and forward, maybe 1" of compression. Two straps from the passenger running boards going forward and out slightly, maybe 1/2" to 1" compression. 1 strap around the rear wheel pulling towards the rear. After about 1 hour I will check the straps and usually they only stretch a bit in that first 30-60 minutes of the trip

No video. Just 5 of us sitting around at the time. Obviously we all jumped up to help, his one leg was caught under the bike and it had been running. Luckily for him his injuries were minor, scrapes, cuts and bruises. We did talk later about the benefits of quality straps and backing down with the clutch, although I doubt if he recalled any of it. Surprisingly he had insurance adjusters out in the next day or two and it seemed as though the settlement was quick and proper.

I know this is almost a year old, but I'll add my two cents. I now have 8.5 years with our toy hauler, 2010 Cyclone. Our models with the 10' garage so it only has a 7' ramp, shorter and steeper. Several things I learned early on. 1) You have to be prepared and deliberate on your loading attempt, a couple ramp approaches, make sure you are lined up and go. Hesitating halfway is a recipe for disaster. 2) Several storage ideas inside and I have settled on Condor wheel chocks. Flat out the best and easiest to use. I no longer even bolt them down. I use 2x4' or 2x8's in front to block them against the wall. 3) Premium straps are worth the money. I use M&R 1" ratchet straps. 4) Backing down - right hand wrapped firmly around the grip - no front brake. Bike in gear and clutch all the way down. Has already been mentioned previously, but trying to stop backing down the ramp using the front brake can be embarrassing or injurious. I have Screamin Eagle Electric Glide, so it may help a bit that it has a hydraulic clutch Once the rear tire is at the ground and you are getting ready for that air gap I just 'go'. 5) One time - only once I tried to load in from wet, bit muddy grass - never again. I ran 8 gauge wire back to the garage and have a small remote control winch in the corner of the garage. I use a pulley to change direction and will use the winch any time it may be questionable loading. 2016 season we were sitting at our RV when a toy hauler pulled in next to us. Not very friendly from getting out the truck but hey whatever. They open the ramp and the bitching starts, their cheap HF straps on the dresser snapped and the bike fell over into the wife's Road King, which snapped it's straps and fell over. We offered help - were turned away and watched. Backing out the Road King none of us suspected or expected that the front brake reservoir would have been dry. Once on the ramp and only using the non existent front brake made for a harrowing 10-20 mph ride backwards down the ramp. He finally fell over about half way in the fairway.