Jump to content

Happy Wanderer

Validated Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Optional Fields

  • SKP#
  • Lifetime Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    hiking, photography, kayaking, bicycling, guitar

Recent Profile Visitors

2,196 profile views

Happy Wanderer's Achievements

  1. Epilogue - I had a mobile service company come out. Out of 9 outlets in my trailer, six were broken! Most were broken from very sloppy installation, but the way it was wired, too many wires trying to connect to the back of the outlets, and some wires came loose. The company replaced six outlets with better quality ones for about $680. Luckily, I have an extended warranty and only had to pay $180. Thanks, everyone, for your advice. It is much appreciated!
  2. Ray, that's interesting. Thanks for the reply. I have a 25' travel trailer, not nearly as sophisticated as your rig. Although, it's possible that there's a hidden outlet, it's not likely. I just tested both the line and the load terminals on the back of the outlet, and they are both getting 120 v. So, if I interpret that correctly, the outlet itself is functioning properly. Cancel trip to Home Depot. All of my outlets have a sticker that says GFCI protected outlet, so it seems they should all be on the same circuit, since only one has the test/reset buttons.
  3. Kirk, I pushed the test button, and power did indeed cut off from the two outlets that were working. On pushing reset, the two kitchen outlets worked again, but the other six are still not. I checked the screws on the back of the outlets, and they are all tight. Is it possible that the outlet is faulty even though it still as power? If it's possible that it could be faulty, then my next move would be to get a new gfci outlet from Home Depot? What do you think?
  4. Tested all eight outlets. Only the two kitchen outlets are working with 120v to them. The others are zero, including the one outside. Something weird.... I flipped the main breaker, and when I turned it back on, the outlets in the entertainment center started working. As soon as I plugged something into the front bedroom outlet, they stopped working again. So, I flipped the main breaker off and on once more, and nothing. I have a 30amp system. Microwave, fridge, and water heater working. Not the TV, because it's plugged into a non-working outlet. Here's a pic of my panel.
  5. Update: Two of the seven outlets are now working, including the gfci outlet that has the test/reset.
  6. I woke up this morning to none of my 110v outlets working. Everything else works, so figured it was a gfci issue. Tested and reset the gfci several times over the course of troubleshooting. First, I went out to the terminal to make sure I was getting shore power. My surge protector verified 121 volts coming through. Next, checked all the breakers and fuses, tripping each one and pulling the fuses to visually check. All intact. I'm thinking the gfci outlet has failed, but how do I know for sure? The green light is still on, after I test and reset it.
  7. GeorgiaHybrid, thanks for the reply. So you installed the stained glass only with no other glass or acrylic? Has the came turned white or other color? Did you use butyl tape or silicone to seal it?
  8. That's a good point, Big Rick. I would think some kind of cushioning on the bottom would be prudent. I have the stained glass piece, and I want to replace the "bathroom" glass that came with the trailer. I think adhering a piece of glass to the outside of it with caulking along the edge would go a long way in stabilizing it. Just wondering if anyone has done this. I saw some posts about it on the Escapees Facebook page (I think) a few weeks ago, but I can't find it now.
  9. I've done a search and come up empty on installing a stained glass window in the RV door. I've heard that some people add a piece of glass, acrylic, or lucite to the outside to protect the stained glass from the weather. Which is best, and what do you use for spacers between the two sheets of glass so the came doesn't get damaged or scratch the other sheet of glass. And, is there room for both pieces? I know I need some butyl tape, but could use some advice.
  10. I found a supplier for a styrofoam shroud that fits my tank, PantherRVproducts.com, by going to JustAsk.com. Paid $5 for a trial subscription and had an answer in 5 minutes. I love the internet!
  11. I recently moved to Florida from the west where it's dry. I put my trailer in storage for 4 months. When I took it out of storage to get it ready to sell, the fiberglass and cardboard surrounding my water heater was soaked and moldy from repeated condensation. Yes, I should have drained my tank, but wasn't thinking of the humidity problem having lived in the west all these years. I discarded all the insulation and checked for leaks, and found none. I've searched online for a replacement two-piece styrofoam and haven't found any yet. Do anyone know where I can get one, or have a home made solution? It's an Atwood 6.2 gal Model 6GA-7. I need something that I can seal off, so I don't have the same problem later on.
  12. This has been a great discussion. We decided to sell the Airstream and just purchased a toy hauler. Thanks for all your input.
  13. HeraHome, Thanks for the tip. We have ordered one from the local guy, don't know if it's a "New Jensen" or not, but will definitely keep that in mind if the one ordered doesn't fit. Have taken photos and showed it to them, and maybe this time, it will be the right one.
  14. It's just a 14" square ceiling vent, no fan. I didn't realize there were so many different hinge types. I thought it was a standard. Shows you what I know. LOL We don't have any service people in our area. I'll have to call Airstream, I guess.
  15. I need to replace a vent cover on my Airstream 2002. The "normal" ones don't seem to fit. Is there a special one for the Airstreams?
  • Create New...