lockmup68

four years old. No corrosion, inside bunk, so no moisture. Tabs seem solid.

Mr. Henry gave me a call. No relay on the running lights, just pass through, so something going on there on the board. I jumped across and all works fine with the jumper. So I tied in a jumper on the terminal strips from truck to trailer to keep me on the road. All tested and works fine now. I'll relay news to Mr. Henry tomorrow. I will pick up a relay or two to keep in spare box.

Will try that in the morning. It is inside, so no moisture issues.

Running lights on trailer worked fine, unplugged for two weeks, plugged back in, everything works except running lights. start diagnosing at truck. Truck plug out is OK. Plug connections all good and tight, continuity is good end to end. Signal in to Jackalopee is good. No light and no signal on the right side of the board for running lights. Everything else works as it should. is one of the relays for the running lights? If so, which one? Four in the middle, top right maybe?

I have an 8kQD with about 1200 hours on it. Works great. Had a board go out on it and had to replace the entire head, new design now that is more serviceable. Mine is a 2011 model. Plumbed into the truck tanks and sits on the truck.

since I'm not an engineer and have no idea what I am doing, this seem feasible?

I had forgotten to tell my starter story. Here goes: Every blue moon, when starting the truck, it would click. I would simply release the key and then it would crank right over. So, on the way from CO to Sturgis for the Dakota Territory Challenge over Labor Day weekend, the ABS light came on. I figured we were going to be in Sturgis for the month, so plenty of time to get it looked at. At DTC, found out one of the Black Hills 4-Wheelers worked at a truck shop, Excel Truck Center, in Rapid City, SD. Took truck over, ABS light, check the starter, air leak. So the leveling valve was basically swiss cheese leaking, ABS speed sensor on the front right wheel, and starter hung once in 50 tries, light hammer tap fixed it. Recommended keep an eye on it. Didn't do it again for 50 cranks. What would you like to do? Hmmmm, what would you do if it were your rig? Keep an eye on it. OK, I'll do that. They actually did great work on everything, found a few things that I hadn't known about, and reasonable rates. Nice, clean shop too. So next morning, head to Rawlins, WY, sleep in, go to crank truck, and nothing. BFH and nothing. Of course it is a Sunday. Called a mobile mechanic (happened to be the campground owners uncle). Took him a few hours to get over, some testing, confirmed, voltage getting to starter, nothing coming out. It's a starter. Started calling around, there was a starter about 60 miles away, they would meet him there to get it. Nothing in town. So after about 8pm, I assumed he wasn't coming back since it was a 2.5 hour round trip to get the starter, and hunkered down for the night. About 10:30, I hear a truck and look out and he is back and has his flood lights on the truck and my hood open. So I get bundled up, (about 40 knot wind and 28 degrees at this point) and head out. "you don't need to replace it tonight, we can do it tomorrow," I said. He said, "I have a couple of scheduled jobs tomorrow, so want to get it done tonight." Of course, it started snowing about 20 min later. Long story longer, we cranked the truck up at 2:45am. Wind was blowing so hard, that my wife didn't even hear it crank up. I don't know how he would have done it without my help. That old starter weighed about 150 lbs. Must have been original 2003. The new one was at least 1/2 the weight and about six inches shorter. Much easier to get back in than to get out. Big shout out to A&M Mobile Mechanic, Roadside Assistance, & RV Repair Service, in Rawlins, WY. Very reasonable rates and super folks. One funny thing, at the RV park, (right off the interstate and plenty of room), they had a "Wyoming Wind Meter" it was a metal pole, with a chain welded horizontal to the ground. Not a joke really.

BTW, I have a set of macs wheel nets that will fit a 32 inch tire on jeeps for sale. Used them on the ford escape, but now we have a JL with 40s, so ordered a new set. $565 new, sell for $250.

^^^^This.

most people don't have enough oomph to ratchet a strap to a frame down to the bumpstops. I have a hard time doing it and I'm not a small guy. If there is any movement left in the system, the suspension will compress and unless you have fully encapsulated hooks (with snaps)/straps, the hook will come out at some point. Look at all the car haulers, they always go below the frame or to the tires/wheels. Sometimes they will go to frame to limit movement, but it is not the primary attachment. I haul a 6k pound 4 door jeep with one ton running gear and 40 inch tires or a 68 Bronco with 42s and one ton running gear that's even heavier. macscustomtiedowns.com straps to axles or wheel nets. Watch all the macscustomtiedown's "tie-down violation" series. He goes around to rigs he sees at events and talks about the various things he sees and how to fix. Most make you wonder, 'what were they thinking?' Some are super sketchy. Entertaining none the less. https://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/blogs/news

open the Hayes up, mine the two brass pieces came loose inside and it was hot all the time. pushed everything back in place, screwed case on tight, and been fine for three years now. The case screws were pretty loose when I took it apart.

rvwaterfilterstore.com hose is the best. I've blown out the cheap ones very quickly. and I suspect they are thin enough that enough light gets in for algae growth and the material they use promotes calcium buildup. No issues with the custom hoses from Mr. David at rvwaterfilterstore.com. I do understand he merged with another company and it is now in CA. Mr. David still there and has great customer service.

yes, I hate that.

I was thinking of solar panels as slide out awnings. Have a roller in a track. Fixed hinge at the top, as the slide opens, would push the panel up, as you pull slide in, pulls the panel down. If it was in a fixed track, would keep it from flapping in and out. I was thinking spending the money on this would be better than spending money on normal slide toppers.

Don't cross strap and don't hook to frame, straps will loosen or worse case, break. I've seen cross straps it pull a jeep off the trailer when one breaks. Here is another great explanation from Mac's Custom Tie Downs: The Tie-Down Debate: Cross vs. Don't Cross - Mac's Tie Downs Highly recommend Mac's straps too. I have had macs straps or wheel nets for 20 years. Never had a strap or ratchet failure from Macs. Plenty of failures from the cheap straps. Worth the money IMO. A buddy of mine in NASCAR told me about Macs way back when.

I love my ramps that Charlie built for me. No lifting, slide in and out on rails. Can even put on actuators to make them fully automatic in the future if wanted. One of my favorite things of the bed re-do.

my binkley head failure on a TS story: TSLBH Head Pin Key

How's the cell service in Taos Canyon? Was there additional parking for the truck? 60' isn't enough for trailer and truck (and Jeep in my case)

https://www.big-rigs-rv.com/Home.html

http://www.badassrv.com/#

So when you are plugged into a 30a, is that just charging the batteries and you are running everything through the inverters? How's the 220 mini split operate if you only have 30a? Planning on a 3 cassette mini split, 220v, 1600 watts max draw on heat pump and 20a breaker required for the unit But there are a few places we like to go that only have 30a hookup. Assume Solar/batteries would make up the difference if needed.

and 24/48 is much more efficient than 12v. Especially if you are using dedicated 24/48v devices.

That is why it says COLD MAX PRESSURE on the tires. Heat increases the pressure. If you want to keep static tire pressures, you have to fill with nitrogen, but the minute you add air, the pressures will fluxuate with temperature. So then you have to haula nitrogen tank around with you.

agree, power cord reels are game changer. Also hanging blocks, like Bill Moriarty made. But a 5th wheel will always be more work than a coach, put it in park, hit the jacks is less work thank hooking/unhooking 5ver. But the room/storage in the 5ver is much more than a coach.

I have an Onan mounted on the truck with a separate "house" bank of batteries on the truck. The onan charges the truck and house bank of batteries and the banks are isolated and also able to jump between. We stayed at a harvest hosts a few days ago. There was another family there and I told them I had a residential refrigerator and needed to keep the generator on over night (inverter acting up) and would they mind. He said, "crank it up and let me hear it." I said, it is running already. Being under the truck, and being an Onan Quiet diesel, i think it is much quieter than even a single honda 2000i. And plumbed into the truck tanks, have 250 gallons to run it a long time. Also, if you do it like this, I have a 50 amp outlet, 30 amp outlet, as well as 20 amp outlets. I have run my trailer with 2 acs and another trailer with 2 acs at 95 degrees outside no problem. Also, have a transfer switch and plug into shore power to keep the batteries charged as well as run the fridge and AC in the bunk as our guest room, or to keep the truck warm/cool before leaving the next day.