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WILDEBILL308

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Posts posted by WILDEBILL308

  1. On 1/7/2024 at 1:20 PM, WILDEBILL308 said:

    I wonder if the OP  Funster101 got his problem solved.

    Wanted to point out that if he needs to air up the system, air bags and breaks there is normaley a air fitting on the front firewall. This is what the tow truck uses to add air to the system. I think his problem is fuel / fuel filter related. I would look at the Diesel Kleen website. This is the only additive recommended by Cummins.

    https://powerservice.com/psp_product/diesel-kleen-cetane-boost/

    Bill

    Well I hope the OP read and uses this link. If he is parked for long periods of time he needs a biocide.

    Bill

  2. I wonder if the OP  Funster101 got his problem solved.

    Wanted to point out that if he needs to air up the system, air bags and breaks there is normaley a air fitting on the front firewall. This is what the tow truck uses to add air to the system. I think his problem is fuel / fuel filter related. I would look at the Diesel Kleen website. This is the only additive recommended by Cummins.

    https://powerservice.com/psp_product/diesel-kleen-cetane-boost/

    Bill

  3. 44 minutes ago, Luke Patterson said:

    Hi.  I'll soon be establishing domicile in Livingston, Texas and shortly thereafter selling my only car.  So I will be without any vehicle.  Most domicile checklists I've seen recommend getting your car registered and titled in Texas.  Which makes sense, especially since car registration documents can help establish proof of residency.  

    If I'm going to sell my car, though, do I even need to go through the hassle of getting new registration, title and tags?  I have valid registration, title and insurance in Kansas and I think that's all Texas Carmax needs when buying it.

    It looks like many different types of documents can help establish proof for residency, e.g. statements from financial institutions, paystub, insurance card.

    In my situation why would I need to register, tag and title my car in Texas?  Am I missing something?

     

     

    Thanks,

    Luke

    Why don't you talk to the people in the office. They have the most up to date info. Bill

  4. Keep an eye on the sites I linked to. Personally the best place to buy is NIRVC.

    When you are looking at a RV don't just walk through. Stop sit down see how it feels, think how it would be doing the basic things. 

    Let me know if you have any questions.

    Bill

  5. 2gypsies, What RV are you talking about that didn't have slides till 2017? My last RV a a 38N Bounder had 3 slides and one was in the bead room and it was 2003.

    Jinx & Wayne, You are going to be full timing and have some things you are looking for. You said "The captain's and navigator's chairs should swivel (and recline?) so that the cab area is not dead space when stopped. A queen bed or bigger is a must. NO DINETTE is a high priority. Counter space in the kitchen that doesn't involve the need to cover the stove and sink to chop veggies would be nice. Tanks that will support more than a week of boondocking with reasonable water conservation are necessary."

    I don't know  of a diesel pusher that the front seats don't pivot.

    If you like the rest of the coach the dinette can be changed. I have a drop leaf table instead  of a dinette. If you don't want to do the work I know people who can do it.

    You said "We want to stay under 35'" Why when you are full time? All  the things you are looking for are what you give up in a short coach. There are maney more used 38-40 foot coaches out there. Explain to me how 5' makes a big difference? You can't tell when you are driving it. When looking look at angle of wheel cut and wheel base they make more difference. 

    Just so you know I have ben traveling in a RV full time and part time since before Y2K.

    I was in all the lower 48 states more than 2 times (some many more than that), in my last 38' coach and never had a time I couldn't find a place to park. I have been to most of the National parks and a bunch of state parks. We upgraded to a 45' coach and last year was in 21 states (you only count a state the first time you enter) We stayed in 51 campgrounds. drove 11,600 miles. Just a fun fact. I was doing some research on the new to me 45' coach and discovered the wheel base is 6" shorter than the 38'. 

    Some outher things to look for. I like a side radiator for ease of acess to the engine. I also like my generator on a slide out. I also like a tag axle coach for the stable ride/drive. Your wife would like a coach with a Oasis system for the unlimited hot water. 

    Heare are a couple to look at.

     https://www.motorhomesoftexas.com/--xInventoryDetail?id=11230424

    If you want power to get over the mountains this is 600 hp coach.

    https://www.motorhomesoftexas.com/--xInventoryDetail?id=11406066

    Next

    https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/used-rvs-for-sale/diesel-motorhomes/2004-monaco-executive_rv-48778

    If you get the chance I encourage you to drive a Newmar with "Comfort Drive" It automatically compensates for cross winds and passing traffic turbulence.

    Let me know what you think.

    Bill

     

     

     

     

  6. On 4/22/2021 at 11:24 AM, Dabbs said:

    Ha, drip chain? That's a neat idea, I was going to do the drain tube thing but decided that's just not a proper fix and I shouldn't have to put up with a weeping water heater that's brand new. There's got to be something I'm missing because not every other water heater out there weeps....

    So I went back to square one on how these things are designed to create an air pocket, upon my research I found they have an inner diverter pipe (plastic I think) in the top hot outlet port. This diverter pipe is a distance from the top of the tank, when filling the tank the water will exit that pipe before the tank is full thus creating an adequate air pocket. If that pipe has a breach then water would completely fill the tank resulting in no air pocket, under normal conditions the tank does build up pressure but since air compresses the valve doesn't open....

    I believe this heater has a defective diverter pipe so I'm going to return it for another new one, it's the only solution that makes sense to me 

     

     

    water heater cut-out.jpg

    Sounds good. I was thinking your pop off valve has a bad gasket. You tried to create a air pocket several times and it didn't hold it.

    Welcome to the forum.

    Bill

  7. So once again we have those who wanted facts are now in a river in Egypt. You know De Nile. If 3000 mile makes you feel so good you should do  1500 mile changes. think how good the oil would feel then.

    For those interested in facts I do a annual oil sample on the engine and transmission. If I see something that I want to watch closer I will do more frequent samples. 

    Bill

     

  8. 1 hour ago, Pat & Pete said:

    I don't know about your motors , but , I can say without hesitation that 4,000 miles on any motor I've ever owned  produces much worse looking and feeling oil than 3,000 miles . 

    Like anything else of any value , too much dirty isn't good . 

    Without doing a oil sample you can't tell anything. You can't feel the where metals in the oil as they are in parts per million.

    Bill

  9. These type of threads are always fun because of the diverse opinions. Hear is my opinion based on my experience and background. Yes I have actual training and ran a oil analysis lab when in the AF. 

    First the oil of today is not the oil your grandfather used. The oil companies love those who still believe in the 3000 mile oil change. Dirty little secrets oil does not where out. Oil becomes contaminated and the additive package is depleted. The engines of today run many times cleaner than those your Grandfather had or even your father.

    First thing is if you are under warranty follow the manufactures instructions to the letter and have documentation.

    Now for those who want to extend their change intervals (low use or just extend it) I would start a oil sampling program. 

    The big thing I see is at least 2 people talking about taking a sample when you drain the oil. This is the wrong way to do it for a couple of reasons. 1 when you take the sample from the oil stream draining out you are prone to get contaminates swept up by the fast moving oil off the bottom of the pan. This will give you a false reading.

    2) you need to pull the sample with a little vacuum pump  (you can buy them from the website)  and a tube down the dipstick tube, being carful to not hit bottom and suck up contaminants. I use the length of the dipstick as a guide on how long to cut the tube and mark it. The reason you do this and have the results back BEFORE you drain your oil is if you get a false reading like really hi iron or al. you want to do a re test to verify the results. If you have dumped the oil you have no way to verify weather it was correct or not. In the example Kirk W posted if his Were really hi  the only alternative would be to borescope the cylinder's or do a teardown to see what was going wrong.

    As it is he needs to find out why he has so much fuel in the oil.

    Bill

  10. 3 hours ago, BobandBarb said:

    The storage bay doors have slam latches that are retracted and won't pop out. I have taken the back apart and have tried to operate the latches individually and they are stuck.

    Yes they are called slam latches, but they don't do well when used that way. On my Bounder I found the best way was to shut the door while holding the latch open. then release it while holding the door closed. 

    I would try soaking them with WD-40 and seeing if you can't pull the latch/plunger part out. I had more problems with the end breaking off than sticking. Look carefully and see if they still have the tapered part.

    Bill

  11. On 3/1/2021 at 10:50 PM, Dutch_12078 said:

    I suggest you look around at other large RV's and see how many you can find with weights on the rear wheels. Or on HDT's where fleet operators go to great lengths to extend tire mileage. Michelin's concern is mostly with the moisture content of the balancing liquids when some people use antifreeze and other non-freezing liquids that can damage the interior lining. Some folks have also used BB's and other types of shot for balancing which can also break down and cause interior tire damage. Good quality commercial balancing beads are made from inert materials that do not break down and contain no moisture. I have never heard of a denied warranty claim due to using purpose made commercial balancing beads. I have seen the damage thrown wheel weights can cause though. It's your RV of course, so I expect you'll do what you feel is best for it.

    Well Dutch, I just happen to be at a rally with over 60 coaches. We are at Cajun Palms RV Resort, North Barn Road, Breaux Bridge, LA. I have ben doing a survey on who balances their rear wheels. So far no one will say they don't balance their rear wheels.

    We also have reps from Freightliner and Spartan doing presentations. I have asked both of them about the question of balancing wheels. They both say all chases shipped have all the wheels spin balanced. Neither recommended balancing beads. So Dutch I will continue to use the spin balance method. 

    I still think the op needs a good balance and inspection for damaged belts.

    Bill

  12. 1 hour ago, Dutch_12078 said:

    Check both of your front tires to see if you have any balancing weights. Not many HD truck shops use them anymore, but I don't know what the RV shops are doing. As far as I know, beads are still the preferred balancing medium since they continually balance the tire as conditions change due to normal wear. Rear tires in these sizes are usually not balanced.

    I only do business with places that can properly do the work and have the tools to do it right. Places like Cowser tire.     https://cowsertire.com/

    "Rear tires in these sizes are usually not balanced." Yes but they are mostly on trailers not Motorhomes. You can risk your warranty if you have/use beads. Go look at the Michelin website.

    Bill

     

  13. 4 hours ago, Twotoes said:

    I’ve owned the RV for 4 years now. The wobble just started on my trip south for the winter a few months ago. I don’t think it is a mounting problem since I have put 30,000 miles on with no problem before now. I may have lost a balancing weight or something like that? Will have the alignment checked by Freightliner when I get my annual service. Just don’t want to spend $300 for an alignment if it is not the cause of the problem. Hopefully a tire inspection will show the cause of the problem. 

    Have you ever had an all wheel alignment done? All the manufactuers some ware in their paperwork will recommend that an all wheel alignment be done after loaded like you are going on a trip. Full fuel, water, propane and all the usual load.

    It could also be a internal tire problem like a belt separation.

    Bill

  14. 3 hours ago, brunsje said:

    It appears to require the oil at 1/2 way.

    I would do a little more research before I did that. The hub in the picture appears good. If you over fill them they will leak out the vent hole and get oil on your wheels, brakes well everywhere.

    One big thing never get in a hurry it takes a long time for the oil to move and settle.

    Bill  

  15. On 11/8/2019 at 4:50 PM, Imoski said:

    So, our Norcold N811 is dead

    Whole we wait for a service tech to tell us how much to replace it I wondered what people's views are on replacing an RV refrigerator with residential one?

    What sort of additional batteries / inverter would we need to power it for, say, 6 hours whilst travelling?

    Be interesting to hear!!

    Best move I ever made. My absorption worked ok but gave up the ghost. I replaced it with a Sears that was about the same size. Wanted to use the popular SamSon but lacked 3" of height in the slide. 

    Here is a little secret. If you had a ice maker in your absorption fridge you already are weird to your inverter. The receptacle that the icemaker was plugged into will give you 120V power from your battery bank. All the ice makers run on 120V So for them to work when on propane they have to have 120V power. 

    That is where I am plugged in and never worried about it when traveling (eaven makes ice cubes on the road). I haven't turned it off in about 3 years now. I have gone a  couple days without shore or gen power.

    Bill

  16. Just a follow up on the vote. IT PASSED. 

    This should give money for upgrading and for building parks. The fun part is it does not raise taxes. For those who might be intersted the results can be seen heare. https://apps.texastribune.org/features/2019/texas-election-results-2019-constitutional-amendments/

    One outher big amendment to pass was Prop 4. Making it more challenging for future lawmakers to enact a personal income tax, requiring support from two-thirds – instead of a simple majority – of the House and Senate and a majority of Texas voters.

    Bill

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