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We installed a RV Air Conditioner 15K Quiet AC Unit with Heat Pump, Remote Control RP-AC3800-W-KT on our trailer about two years ago.  Can’t tell you how impressed we are with this unit.  Yes expensive  but the interior noise difference is significant and we have used the heat pump portion of the AC in 20 degree weather with no problems. Bought ours at this link

Regarding the adjustable pressure regulators.  How do you set them up? Water in the RV running or all water outlets in RV closed?  I ask this because for years I set mine at 45/50 with all water shut off inside the trailer. Recently, when camping a new paper licensed trailer pulled in next to us.  When the owner was setting up he was told to hook up regulator to the city connection, go inside and run on the shower and then set the pressure regulator at no greater than 55psia and then turn off the shower.  The owner even showed me these steps in his set up steps provided by the dealer.  He asked my opinion, and I told him I set mine up with all water in the rig closed. Have I been doing my water setup wrong for 20+ years?  

Caveat, our Nash 17 is 22 feet long and very well insulated.  Last year the OEM air conditioner (A/C) gave up and we replaced it with a RecPro /Houghton 15,000 BTU non ducted air conditioner/heat pump (A/C). I can begin to tell you how much quieter the Houghton is than the old OEM A/C.  I then modified the power cord from the A/C by cutting the power cord I would say about 2 feet coming out of the trailer’s breaker box and wired this end into this a single gang non-metallic square cable box, The other end of the power cord from the A/C that was cut I put on a on a 15-amp male plug so when we have 30-amp available I just leave the A/C plugged into the single gang .  Why cut the power code?

The modification went further in that we bought a 15-amp outside extension cord and ran it out through the existing power cord door to the outside of the trailer.  All we do now is if we are mooch docking or running off our Honda EU 2000i generator is unplug the modified A/C male plug from the single gang that is wired to the breaker box on the trailer, plug that modified male plug in the female side of the extension cord and then to a normal household plug or the generator.   After setting the frig and hot water heater to run off propane we can run the A/C off a normal 15-amp AC household outlet or the Honda. We even can stop lunch and plug the modified power cord from the A/C into our 2,000 watt “Solar Generator” and have A/C while we are stopped.

Late to the game here.  I have had  of these link to 3,000 watt inverter   for about 3 years.  Little to no parasitic draw mostly because it has no constant on USB ports.  I have had no problems with the two.

Thanks I saw that.  I just don't understand the correlation with the new PC.   I assure you the ads did not appear on the old pc.  

Any way to remove all the ads that appear on the right-hand banner Browse Forum tab? .  I got a new PC the banners for RV Online , Campground View etc. now appear.

Agree with Kirk regarding camper leveler blocks and the Level Mate. When we had our single axle trailer, we used the BAL 28050 a lot assuming the camping pad was firm . It was not very usable on non-firm (muddy or sandy) for the BAL base.  Several times the BAL would just sink the surface. Yes, we had the same problems with camper level blocks and even the Andersen leveling system.   We added to our STUFF we camp with link to loading ramps for the not so solid ground.    The Level Mate is a great tool. 

Ok, I just don’t understand why it just started recently.  For almost 10 years the Mobley has been functioning without flaw and just a few months ago this started. WillB, I can reboot my PEPWAVE Surf Solo II remotely but then it just goes back and picks up the degraded performance of the Mobley. I guess I’ll change my router priority to be the Visible phone first then the Mobley. Thanks,

The  ZTE Mobley AT&T car connect has been the primary  internet access tool for years now. I have the SIM card installed in the original ZTE box device. In the last few months, I have noticed a degradation of service  in that when I first fire up the device, I get the normal 10up/ 15-20 down.  After about 2 -3 hours of constant on but no activity on my parts the upload speeds stay the same around 10 but the downloads degrade to less than 2 mmps.  Connectivity is not lost but performance down load sufffers.  I can unplug the ZTE and plug it back in and the performance recovers. The ZTE is the original SIM card. Our home 20 is in Angelina County so I don’t think it is a traffic problem. Has anybody else noticed this situation.  

Don't know ifthis is clsoe but it is in North East Houston. We use to use Affordable Stoorage of Kingwood  They even have a little lake that touched the property than you could fish from. 

The primary purpose of my visible phone is creating a hotspot to broadcast to my router.  Here is my question, does the “New” visible plan change the 5-meg up/down speed cap when the phone is used as a hot spot?  Yes, I know the video shows fantastic speed, but he is not using he phone as a hotspot. 

I am not advocating this link to you tube, but this guy claims that he has figured out a work around for they current Starlink equipment. His explanation begins around 9 minutes into the video.

Two members of my family have bought link to Ameri-lite by Gulf Stream. I think they are 259BH. The Ameri-lite line is a basic trailer, but I was impressed because the freshwater tank was enclosed under the bed, it looked to be fully insulated walls, ceiling and floor  and we have had them in 20° with no freezing problems.  I do not believe the roofs are walk on.  

Hemphill/Yellowpine close to Toledo Bend reservoir. Saw 2.1 ° at 0400 on 02/16. It has not been above freezing since 02/15. Maybe 4 inches of snow on the ground. We have been in our trailer in our pole barn since 02/16.  Very intermittent power. Apparently, we are on that rolling blackout schedule because we never lose power for over maybe to 3 to 4 hours. I threw the critical path switch (medical room, well pump and aerobic septic system) so these run straight off the battery bank and channel all shore power to the battery banks.  This is the first time in 10 years that my 7K of solar has not been able keep the batteries charged and we have put nil back into the grid since 02/13. Surely am glad I had the 500-gallon propane topped off just a week ago. I may have to breakdown and look an emergency standby generator.   

22 hours ago, Rex and Carol said:

my question will be what is the best Internet Service for RV'ers. 

Rex and Carol,  We use two sources to get our internet. Our primary tool is the no longer available AT&T Mobley ($20/month unlimited) plan.  It feeds a wireless signal to our PepWave Surf Solo Mark 3 router.  Assuming AT&T connectivity , it has been rock solid for over 6 years.

In order to make sure we had connectivity, last year we added the Verizon's Visible. We bought the cheapest cell phone Visible had a create a hot spot.  The hot spot allows ONE user.  We circumvent this by making the one user a TripMate router. Visible is a stepchild of Verizon, so Verizon users are prioritized for bandwidth.  We have never seen this happen therefore,  we have not any interruptions with our Visible service. Visible clams 5 megs up and down we have seen greater speeds.  It is $35/month on the party pay plan.  We really like this Visible.

Assuming connectivity, we stream is Amazon and Netflix. We have had no problems streaming even on the Visible. We are not gamers. We have Maximum Signal cellphone booster to improve reception of these devices.  Our primary travel areas are 5 state area with deep east Texas as our home base.

Towards the end of December 2020, we tried the T-Mobile NSEEGO 5G MIFI M2000.  While it was AMAZINGLY fast WHEN there was T-Mobile coverage or home 20 was just out of range for ANY T-Mobile signal so we sent it back.

IMHO I would not bother with the composition toilet.  Reason, two of my friends have composition toilet. They still must find a way to properly/environmentally correct dispose of the “urine bottle” portion composition toilet. Their Nature Head urine bottle holds only 2 ½ gallons. One of them is a family of 5 and he has said 2 ½ gallons is still a dump almost every other day.

After the loss of our primary residence from Hurricane Harvey, we moved to our bug out location in deep east Texas.  This location had 7K of solar, utility shed for the Solar equipment, water well and an 80/30 totally enclosed pole barn.  I will not dump my black water, even if it only 2 ½ gallons every X number of days and urine only on  my property . We were going to make this our new permanent location. We tried one month of a weekly dump to the blue tote and taking the tote to a dump station 15 miles away. After just one month of living in the trailer and trips to the dump station we paid the price and had an aerobic system installed. If you are going to permanently live on this property, I suggest a move of the aerobic system up on the project plan.

Gave up on trying to harden an iPhone about 2 years ago. Bought a CAT S60.  We are highly active with outside activities, so I spent the money up front for a “rugged” cell phone. It is Mil-Spec 810G, IP68, IP69K rating.  It has gorilla glass, exceptionally good battery life which means it weights a lot.  I didn’t think I would use the F.L.I.R. gadget much until I had an engineer (has a S60)  properly show me how to utilize this F.L.I.R. tool. Now, the whole volunteer fire department now have the CAT phones ( S60 or S61) because of the F.L.I.R..

When we stop to refuel, I walk around the trailer and take a quick look thru the F.L.I.R. at each hub/wheel bearing and compare it to a previously known baseline. In addition, the F.L.I.R. has proven to be valuable in finding wiring faults and leaks around windows and roof.

I bought mine from all places Walmart.com, unlocked and at time would only work on the AT&T network. I do have to admit that I am somewhat disappointed with Google Play.  IMHO the iPhone world has much more apps.

Please explain the why and how you accomplished the task.

Why-My hobbies, kayaking and fishing and then hurricane Ike and Harvey hit.

How-  I’m still flooded lead -acid. Two detachable 90-watt panels on the camper shell of the Tundra  wired in parallel feeding a five-year-old Trojan SCS225. Additional two portable 100-watt panels wired in parallel feeding the battery bank on the trailer. The trailer has as primary two five-year-old TrojanT-105 hooked up in series. As back-up to the trailer it has a trojan SCS225. A Blue Seas-Series Selector Battery Switch 9001e switch handles the switching between the two on-board 6-volt battery, the single Trojan SCS 225 battery or both. I have two controllers that I have made portable so I can move the between truck and trailer  One Morningstar PS-30 PWM and a Morningstar PS-MPPT-40M.  All batteries are  maintained  via these controllers and a monitored via a portable Bogart Engineering Tri-Metric Meter TM-2025-A .  Both the truck and the trailer have Power Tech-On 2000-watt pure sine wave inverter wired via #00 fine wire welding cable.   All other wiring is either #4 or #00 fine wire welding cable.  

Are you happy you added Solar? Yes.

Content? We have learned what we can run and for how long with the current set-up but would always want  more amp hours and panels.

What has your experience been since going Solar? We are experienced off girders. We have over 7K of panels at what is now, after Harvey, our home 20.  Experience has been very positive and albeit very expensive.

Had real good performance form this link to HooToo travel router. 

For the last five years I have had good service from this link to Viair air compressor for my trailer tires.  It does read tire pressure.  I modified the power cord with 2 pin 10-gauge SAE power pig tale so I can plug it into the trailer battery so I don’t have to use the alligator clips every time.

My son-in-law was in a similar situation. Military family of four with a greyhound they needed more room than what we have in our Nash 17K. They liked the Nash but this brand, even used, to fit his family and a usage as a monthly warrior and maybe one or two extended trips a year was way out of his price range. I advised him to buy a reasonable platform and we can “tweak “ like I modified my Nash. He found a very similar 2019 Forest River 27’ travel trailer that had a fantastic price, so they bought the Forest River. I mean this is a basic bunk house trailer. I think it’s around fully loaded weight of 6,000# with twin 3,500# axles.

By “tweaking” I mean isolating the air conditioner to where it can be the only thing plugged into shore power or small generator, swapping batteries, adding a true battery motoring system like a Tri-Metric Meter TM-2025, adding a good large pure sin wave inverter, and adding solar/associated solar equipment. Their first outing was a 10- day round trip Scott AFB  to Air Force academy.  After the alterations we made they name the trailer the “Bunker”. Long story short after the mods they say it met their needs perfectly.

Regarding the anti-sway. Their tow vehicle is a ¾ ton 2005 Dodge Cummins diesel.  They wanted a Hensley Arrow like we have but again based on their anticipated usage it was priced out of their range.  They decided on a Fastway e2 with Integrated Sway Control.  He said even across the plains of the Dakotas and Kansas the trailer NEVER swayed or got sucked in by passing semis.  We followed him westward for a while in our Tundra-Hensley-Nash 17 combo out of Scott AFB before tuning south to heading back to SE Texas and I can confirm that I never saw their combo get sucked in or sway.

I saw one of these, link to Aura A-23TH while dry camping in close to the Buffalo river in norther Arkansas. He had all his yaks and fishing gear in the toy hauler section. He said the only thing that was not his favorite  was the queen bed as not a walk around.  Don't know if it big enough for you. 

trailertravler is correct.  I was wrong when I said the stinger stays on the Hensley.  The stinger says on the tow vehicle and like trailertravler said “ It does take some practice to put a square peg into a slightly larger square hole”. 

When I purchased my used Nash 17K it came with a link to Hensley Arrow.  If your budget can handle the cost, and your tow vehicle gross vehicle weight (GVWR) rating can handle additional weight of the Arrow or Cub it is by far the best anti sway hitch I’ve used. I thought the Hensley products were smoke and mirrors until I towed the trailer back from Baltimore to my home in deep east Texas with the Hensley. The Hensley makes a notable towing experience difference but is a little tricky to hook and unhook up since the stinger stays on the Hensley. I’ve towed the Nash with a link to Fastway e2 hitch as well as the Hensley. When the trailer does not sway much with the e2 I can see it the trailer being “sucked in” a little with trucks pass me.  The trailer does not move at all with the Hensley. My tow vehicle is a long bed long wheelbase 2010 Tundra extended cab, 5.7 V8 4x4.

We have been using a Max Amp Mobile Truck and Trailer Package since about 08/2017, or soon after we lost our pre- Harvey house.  Works extremely well when traveling or stationary.

The first reason we went with MaximumSignal is our primary internet is Mobley and my Cat 60 phone are AT&T, our backup internet is Version, and my wife’s phone is Sprint. So far, the MaximumSignal has handled all three carriers.

The second reason is our home 20 is in a very remote area of deep east Texas no INSP and we don’t watch enough television justify the cost of HughesNet.  The portability of the Mobile Truck and Trailer Package allows us to move the actual amplifier and trailer side of both outside external antenna and inside omni direction antenna from the trailer to our post Harvey house.

The third reason is the excellent customer service we received form Gord.  We did have some feedback problems with the trailer side of the initial install and our home 20 and Gord worked with us tirelessly to resolve the problem.