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Chad Heiser

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Everything posted by Chad Heiser

  1. You want retail or the price I paid? I don't have my cost stuff with me right now, but I can look it up and give an idea when I get home. I did a lot of bargain hunting and was able to get some very good prices on my stuff, so even the retail I paid was below normal retail. An un-named forum member told me he had a similar system priced out for installation by AM solar (although I think it was slightly less solar wattage) and the price was $14K. That included three days of labor at $120.00 per hour times 2 installers (or about $6K in labor).
  2. I spent the last couple of weekends installing solar on my new 5er and another forum member's (Tahoe Shark) 5er. I have scattered the information around on the forum, but thought it would be better to have it all in one place, since I received several inquiries about it from other forum members. I picked up my new DRV Mobile Suite 40KSSB4 from Rolling Retreats at the end of February. While I was at Rolling Retreats, I installed a large battery bank and some other miscellaneous pieces. Once I returned home with the trailer, I finished the rest of the install. The following weekend, I did a similar install for Tahoe Shark (with his help). My system with component links: Batteries - Four Fullriver DC260 AGM 12 volt batteries for a total of 1040 amp hours of storage capacity These are big (8D size) and heavy (170 lbs per) batteries. I went with these because I wanted AGM's this time around and I came across a really good deal on them on e-bay. They normally cost anywhere from $650 - $1000 per battery (depending on where you by them) plus shipping (if applicable) and I found them for $259 plus $10 shipping (per battery on e-bay). The price was so good because they were new old stock. They had been sitting in a warehouse for about two years and the company that had them finally decided to unload them. So far I am very happy with them, but I have previous experience with Fullriver and like the brand as a whole. The batteries are individually connected to positive and negative bus bars with equal length custom built 4/0 battery cables I made. This allows for each battery to have equal resistance in the bank. There is a very good explanation of battery wiring here. I wired my batteries like method three at the link. I used BEP Pro three stud 650 amp bus bars for the battery connections. I also installed a high capacity battery switch to completely isolate the batteries if necessary. I used a Blue Sea 3000 HD-Series switch for this. All other coach 12 volt connections are run to BEP Pro four stud 500 amp bus bars. The two positive bus bars are connected in line with a 4/0 cable. The two negative bus bars are connected through a shunt to allow for proper battery monitoring of all 12 volt loads in the 5er. Inverters - two of them I ordered my 5er with a Magnum 3012 hybrid inverter from the factory. It also came installed from the factory with a Magnum ME-ARC remote control, ME-BMK battery monitor and ME-AGS-N auto generator start module. I do not like the way DRV wires the battery monitor when they install it at the factory, so I knew I would be changing this. DRV only has the shunt for the battery monitor monitoring the power the inverter/charger uses, it does not monitor any of the general coach 12 volt usage. This is because DRV splits their batteries into two connected, but separate battery banks when you option the large whole house inverter. I corrected this issue with my battery install. (By the way, I had DRV deliver my 5er with only one 12 volt battery installed rather than the four six volts that would have come with the inverter package because I knew I would be immediately installing my own batteries.) I also added a Magnum CSW 1012 inverter. This is a 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter and was installed solely to run the residential refrigerator when traveling or off grid. This way I do not have to run the big inverter and power many other items in the coach when they are not needed. I added a Magnum CSW-RS remote switch to turn this small inverter on and off when needed. I installed a Magnum CSW-TS15 transfer switch in the refrigerator line to allow the automatic transfer of power to the applicable power source. As a result the refrigerator can be run from shore power, generator power, large inverter or small inverter with no intervention from me. Both inverters have Class T fuses on fuse blocks between the inverters and the battery bank. The large inverter has a 400 amp fuse and the small inverter has a 150 amp fuse. Generator - Dealer Installed I had Rolling Retreats add an Onan 6500 watt commercial generator. This generator is the same as the regular 6500 watt Onan, but the commercial version of it supplies 2 phase 240 volt power. I did this because I opted for the Splendide 240 volt clothes dryer and I wanted to be able to run it when we didn't have 50 amp shore power. Solar Controller and Solar Panels I installed a Magnum PT-100 solar charge controller. This is a beast of a controller and probably more than needed for an RV install, but it integrates with all the other Magnum products I had and runs from the same ME-ARC remote control, so I decided to go with it. It is an MPPT charge controller and is programmable through the ME-ARC remote. I installed six Canadian Solar CS6P 235 watt solar panels on the roof. These are large (in physical size) panels, but I chose them because I got them at an excellent price by buying a pallet of 20 panels from a solar liquidator in my area. I then split the pallet with several friends at a price we could not pass up. They are very good panels, but take up a lot of roof space. They are connected to the roof with RVsolarconnection.com smart feet (six per panel). The adjustable smart feet allowed for me to compensate for the curvature of my roof. The panels are run in three strings of two panels each in series/parallel. I did this to allow for smaller wire runs to the solar controller (because the largest wire DRV would install from the roof to my battery compartment was 4 AWG at the factory and I did not want to fish larger wire later). This configuration also was the best set up for the solar controller, based on input from Magnums tech support and the panels I had chosen. I used an AM Solar combiner box on the roof to combine the panels. I also used AM Solar strain reliefs in the combiner box and AM Solar 10 gauge wire to connect all the panels. In my battery compartment, the solar positive wire goes through a Blue Sea 6006 mini switch before going to the PT-100. This way I can isolate the solar panels from the controller if necessary. Between the solar controller and the battery bank, I installed a Blue Sea 7144 187 - Series Thermal 100 amp DC breaker in the positive line. This is an overview of my system. The system I installed in Tahoe Shark's trailer is very similar, but he has a slightly smaller battery bank of 6 volt AGM batteries connected in a typical series/parallel configuration. Here is a wiring diagram I drew of my system. Here are pictures of my install of the various components. I used the 5ers original battery compartment as my new electrical connection center. All 12 volt connections are now in this compartment, along with the small inverter. Due to the size of my new batteries, I installed them and the battery bus bars in the basement compartment of the 5er and built boxes to put around them. My charge controller also went in the basement next to the large inverter. I'm sorry for the long post, but I wanted to consolidate all of this information for those of you who have asked about it. I will be giving detailed presentations on Inverter systems and Solar systems at the West Coast Rally and will use this system and others I have installed as examples. I hope this information is useful to the group. If you have any questions, let me know.
  3. I just installed another one in a buddies rig and have a third one sitting in my shop waiting to go on another buddies rig (oh and there is another forum member that I know who has one waiting to be installed in his new to him rig as well). If you go with all Magnum equipment, why not use the Magnum solar controller too? They are monster controllers, but you will never outgrow them in an RV like you can with some other controllers and I love integration.
  4. Look at ImarineUSA.com for Magnum components. They have about the best prices around for Magnum stuff (cheaper than you listed above. You can't really go wrong with either manufacturer. I am a die hard Magnum guy. I've installed a bunch of Magnum components and have the full suite in my current (and past) 5er. They are very robust and easy to install. I have no real world experience with the Victron, just internet research. I don't know anyone with Victron equipment to get personal experience from (other than Technomadia and their videos on their installs). If you go Magnum and plan to add solar (as you mentioned) you need the ME-ARC remote to have integrated control of the PT-100 solar controller. As far as components, here is my list. Main and sub power panels, Inverter, inverter catastrophe fuse and holder, battery monitor with shunt, auto gen start module (if you have a built in generator), integrated remote control, solar controller, isolation switch between inverter and battery bank. isolation switch between solar array and solar controller, re-settable breaker between solar controller and battery bank, positive and negative bus bars for all 12 volt trailer connections (so everything doesn't have to be connected directly to the batteries), solar panels, mounting system for solar panels, roof combiner box for solar panels, appropriate sized cabling for everything. I have a detailed wiring diagram from my last 5th wheel power system I can provide if you would like to see it. I haven't had time to draw up a wiring diagram for my current system in my new 5th wheel yet, but I will. If you want to message me, I'll give you my number. I am happy to talk details of any of my systems or the systems I have installed. I will be giving presentations on inverter and solar systems at the WCR this year as well. On edit, here is a link to my wiring diagram from my last 5th wheel.
  5. The Magnum ME-ARC remote has a lot of information, but it has a simple two line display. It has lots of menus you can go through to get pretty much any information you would ever want, but it is nowhere near as cool as the Victron GUI display.
  6. Technomadia has some good videos on the victron products they have installed, including the GUI interface remote. They were beta users who gave feedback to help develop the remote interface.
  7. I assume you are talking about putting it in your trailer remodel? If so, they are both excellent inverters. I don't have personal experience with the Victron's but the research I have done on them show them to be excellent products. I really like their GUI interface remote. If I were starting from scratch and building a system, I would probably go Victron just because of the GUI remote. If you plan to install a full suite of products (Inverter/Charger, battery monitor, remote, solar controller, etc) both companies can do integrated systems, but for me the Victron GUI remote is the tipping point to push me in that direction. This is coming from someone who has installed multiple Magnum products in mine and other RV's and currently has the full Magnum suite in my new DRV 5er.
  8. I know you didn't ask this, but I'll throw a wrench in the works. I have an 8 series Bobcat Skid Steer loader. It runs circles around my neighbors John Deere and my other neighbor's Kubota. It has higher rated lifting capacities and can maneuver in tighter spaces. Skid steers have basically unlimited attachment options for every conceivable job and are more compact in size. I bought mine used 16 years ago and it is still running like a champ. I went looking to buy a tractor like you are looking for and decided to stop in my local Bobcat dealer on a whim as I drove by. They had the one I bought sitting on consignment with a bunch of attachments for cheaper than I could get a new tractor. It may not be what you are looking for, but I say it is worth consideration. Bobcat's especially are construction grade equipment and are meant to run long hours day after day after day. A lot of the smaller JD's and Kubotas are meant more for occasional to moderate use, although people do put them into heavy use. Just food for thought.
  9. I have Good Sam platinum as well. I have only had to use them once, but they towed my HDT to the shop of my choosing when my ECM died a couple of years ago. I did get a tow truck that was too small the first time, but after talking to the tow driver that showed up, I found out it was the tow company's mistake and not Good Sam. It was Friday afternoon and the only qualified operator for the big rig tow truck Good Sam requested from the local tow company was the owner of the tow company. Apparently the owner didn't want to drive all the way out to where I was late on Friday afternoon so he sent one of his drivers in a medium duty tow truck because obviously Good Sam didn't know what they were talking about when they requested the big rig tow truck for an RV. The employee driver was very apologetic when he showed up and said the owner was kind of an a$$ and wouldn't let any of his employees drive his prize machine (the big rig tow truck). Well the owner had toco e out anyway and now it was even later on Friday afternoon. I can't fault Good Sam for that.
  10. We are in Barstow, CA for a quick over night stay. We are heading to Flagstaff, AZ in the morning. We will be staying at Greers Pine Shadows RV Park in Flagstaff for two days (on our way to Texas). After Flagstaff, we will stay at the Cibola Sands KOA in Grants, NM for two days. Then the Amarillo, TX KOA for a night. Then to the Dallas area for a family reunion and some mooch docking on their property.
  11. That would be great. Thanks.
  12. Thanks, I appreciate any documentation you can provide.
  13. Thanks for the input Scrap. It looked like it should be fairly straightforward. I will most likely tear into it myself, but it will have to wait until I get back. I only have one day off work between now and when we leave and that day is already pretty full with other scheduled chores. Luckily the AC works good and as long as I leave the heater hoses turned off from the motor the heater doesn't overpower the AC. It is a southern, summer trip so no heat shouldn't be a big issue. If it does by chance get cold, I'll just turn on the heated seats and put a jacket on I would like to get a diagram of the system if someone has access to one to make things a little easier though.
  14. Thanks for the offer. I will check out the heater shut off valve when I get a chance.
  15. Thanks for the information. I knew the control had to be set to defrost before removing the assembly. There is a big warning sticker on the outside of it telling me that. I'm hoping to track down a schematic or an exploded parts view of it to give me a better idea how it is put together and what might be causing my issue.
  16. I might give it a shot. I'm leaving next Friday for a month long trip and won't have time to tackle it until I return home, but I would like to gather some information in the mean time to determine if it is something I can handle or not. I will definitely discuss it with some of the WCR attendees that should have some experience with such repairs to help me make my decision.
  17. I am having an issue with my HVAC system in my 2000 T2000. At first I thought it was my AC, but have since ruled that out. The AC blows cold and has no leaks and has been tested by a shop. My issue is either with the controls (less likely) or with the blend doors (more likely). Once the motor warms up the heater overpowers the AC and blows hot. I have turned off the heater hoses leading to the HVAC system and now the AC works great, but I have no heater (luckily it is summer). I have torn apart the dash multiple times on my T2 and I know there are no HVAC parts other than ducts in there. It appears all the HVAC components are on the engine side of the firewall just below the windshield. Has anyone ever torn into a T2000 HVAC system? Do any of you have any schematics or tips on dealing with this issue. I'm debating doing it myself or having a shop do it. I'm thinking it is either a wiring problem or an electrical motor of some type that has got the blend doors stuck open to heat. My AC controls in the dash mostly work. The fan control and A/C switch work as expected. The recirculate and vent switches don't appear to be doing anything - like the motor that controls which vents are selected/turned off has quit. Any input is appreciated.
  18. Raquel, Hopefully you can work in the ECR. It would be nice to meet in person.
  19. Nice job. Looks good. Hope it is all cured up before you head out on your trip. I'm sure the heat is helping that process .
  20. It was good to see you again Tony. I was happy to deliver your plug and I (and especially my DW) was even happier to get a little help with the AC. It was greatly appreciated. It blew ice cold all the way home today, which was nice in the heat. How did the painting go today? On edit: Since we were talking MPG a little bit. I got just over 12 mpg between Redding and Williams on I5 pulling the trailer.
  21. Great job. I'm looking forward to seeing it in person in September.
  22. Nice work. We'll be in Redding Labor Day weekend. We will have to get together so I can check everything out in person.
  23. We are in Sparks, NV at the Sparks Marina RV Resort for the HDT West Coast Rally. It is a nice park strangely located in the middle of town, but is turning out to be a good location for the rally so far. We will be here through Monday and then head home and back to that four letter word, "work".
  24. Too bad. Maybe we will catch you in Colorado next summer. It's good to hear about the Truma install. That was going to be one of my questions during the tour. I have been looking at their forced air heaters and instant hot water heaters. I was wondering if New Horizons had any experience with them.
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