Deezl Smoke

 Saw a green WS towing a nice 5er today near Hillsboro Oregon just south of US26 at exit 57. Anyone here resemble that description?

10 hours ago, rickeieio said:

Don't you mean, swapped out to gas?  I know several people who bout those, and dropped in gas motors later.

 Been there, done that, got the tee shirt.

 The rig in my avitar was a 6.2L that I later swapped out for a 454cid. Easiest swap ever. 3 line fuel pump, ignition power to the coil, and homemade radiator hoses. Throttle cable, just a simple part swap. The torque converter on the 6.2 has different perimeters, but still works.

 The 6.2 has a vacuum pump to operate the trans and hvac, so simple to plumb that hose in the manifold on the 454.

 Just more fuel for this type of fire.

1 hour ago, rickeieio said:

Time to bust out the ol' slide rule.  Torque x RPM  = HP/5252  But where did 5252 come from?

I haven't driven enough new stuff to be sure, but it seems the newer motors are making more torque, but keeping the rpm lower, thus the great pulling power with low hp figures.

 It's fun to know where the number came from.

On 2/17/2024 at 12:23 PM, noteven said:

Myth: it’s horsepower not torque.

It’s why heavy haul companies are replacing 2050lbs-ft torque Cummins’s’z with really Tuned up 6.7 Powerstrokes

  "Myth: it’s horsepower not torque."

 Bar none one of my favorites.👍

 Why do the hp and torque graph curves cross at roughly 5252 rpm?

6 hours ago, lenp said:

Deezl,

I live over the hill from you in Madras.  My preferred route south is US 20 east to Burns then OR 78 to US95 to Winnemucca followed by I80 SW to US95 again.  Then all the way on 95.  Very mild pulls after your over the Cascades.

Lenp

 I have a small 20 acres in Christmas valley on 5-14 just east about 6.5 miles from town. I have a small gravel rv pad on it. I love driving 78. Went through Rome and viewed the pillars etc driving up 95. I personally like 395 south from the Wagontire intersection, and 140 east. But I've only been to Denio junction. I'll have a look at 80 and see if any passes are clear.

6 hours ago, rickeieio said:

Okay, now I get it.  There's I-95 in the east, US-95 in the west, and SR-95 in CA or AZ or elsewhere.

But wait, there's more!!  We live in Indiana, where North Bend is in the south, South Bend is in the north, and French Lick ain't what you think.

LOLOLMAO!!🤣

47 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

I'm corn-fused. Is there another I-95 besides the one that runs up the east coast?

 The "95" I'm using starts up about Kingsgate Idaho, actually further north, but for USA, Kingsgate Idaho, then south through Quartzsite. So maybe my lack of knowledge on the highway system is showing here. Could it be US 95 that still goes interstate?

9 hours ago, aknavy said:

Just did this route a couple weeks ago.  Nice road, nice views, barely any traffic.  Just make sure you have fuel, as it's sparse for that stretch.

 

 On I95 or the old 95 which I think they call SR95 now?

41 minutes ago, spindrift said:

Walker Lake in NV has some interesting history.  Lots of folks don't appreciate desert views.  I can't get enough of them.

 100% That's why I have a sunny desert on my driver's side and a moon lit desert on the passenger's side of my rig.

 I'm hoping to get out of here (Hillsboro Oregon) maybe later this week, and find some sunshine for a day. Looking at the forecasts, the I5 Siskiyou pass looks clear, and the return passes going north on 95 look ok enough at this point.

 So If I were to get to Quartzsite, I see SR95 from Quartzsite up to I40 looks like a more scenic drive. But I'm asking if anyone knows the condition of the road and/or if it is worth it, or just stay on the interstates?

 My travel style is different than most. At this point in my traveling career I am more interested in the macro view from my driver's seat, than the time exploring the micros of an area on a motorcycle, e-bike or quad etc. That may come later.

 Thanks for any tips or warnings. This would be my first time so far south.

 I have no opinion, just figured this video by Steve Lehto (MI lemon law attorney) might be interesting.

 Fireball tool made a video about 2 years ago using an old shaper to test the old file backwards myth. Normally I'd post a link, but I can't seem to get the video to play on youtube. It just opens then goes white screen.

 But if you search youtube for fireball tool file, it should come up. It was a very interesting video. I'll not spoil the results, you'll have to watch it.😉

 Ok, it was my computer. I got it to play. So here's the link.

And,....check with your insurance company. You may need to do some real research and changes to your insurance needs over all. It's important to find a good, experienced agent that can guide you through the process. It can be truly amazing how much can be saved when your agent knows how to combine policies.

 Then, look into a roadside service program. Some can use AAA, some Sam's club, and many, like me, use Coachnet.

1 hour ago, rickeieio said:

What brought this myth to the top was when I was checking pressures on the truck yesterday.  Drives say 110 psi.  I aired to 70 psi.  Manufacturer's chart doesn't go so low as to recommend pressure for our load, so rather than risk having a tire come off the bead, I run more air.

I also noted that my steers are only rated for 75 mph at max load and pressure.  We're about 90% of max load, so I feel the occasional blast above that speed to make a clean pass is okay.

 So I'm not sure if this statement I am making is myth or fact, but IIRC, DOT ratings for tire speed and other applications, are minimum 2x safety rated, possibly 3x. So the 75mph rating at max advertised load, on average, in approved testing environments should not fail until a minimum of 150mph. Now I am certain that temperature and other variables are considered, but in lab testing under guidelines approved by DOT, the 75mph is half or less of "lab test" failure speed.? I honestly do not know, just what I remember "hearing" years back. Likely myth, but....

 For no real good reason, I seem to, on average, take my steer tire conditions and pressures more seriously than the drives. IE: I tend to run them, though lower than marked on the tire, higher than what I would run for ride quality. I am lighter on the steers than most here, and much of that is because I am still tandem drive and have some weight behind the drive trunnion.

 WOW, that was an awesome deal. You don't have to store that axle and you got the drive installed. Were you able to keep any tires or wheels from the front axle?

6 hours ago, rickeieio said:

There's another way it can "go bad".  If it gets cold, the nitrogen will crystalize and precipitate out.  Of course, when it warms up again, the crystals will re-enter the solution.

I buy my DEF from a local fuel supplier who serves a lot of commercial vehicles.  Several fleets of PACCAR dump trucks fuel there, so I ought to be good.  The only time I've bought DEF from another source was at a grocery chain fuel station in Hutchinson, KS.  4x the price at a truck stop.

 Yep. Though it won't always go back into solution 100%, which is where issues can rise. Letting the container, large or small, sit in the sun can also oxidized the solution.

 I've melted a fair bit of dry fertilizers into water over the years. Some exothermic, and some endothermic. Mixing urea with water (in an ag setting) would form a lot of ice outside the vat.

 Personally, I'm not as much concerned about the brand of the def, as I am about how long it's been sitting on the shelf,....outside in the weather,....with the box faded and the foil seal compromised because of it.

38 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

The different opinions about DEF are intriguing.  I've also heard that you should never get DEF from a commercial pump, and conversely, never from the jugs from a hardware store or auto parts store.  

But, from what I've read, DEF is food grade 32% urea.  Same as the feed stock for commercial liquid nitrogen fertilizer, but more refined and filtered.

But I can't drink enough beer to fill my DEF tank.

 Seems to depend on the design of the def system as to what quality def is tolerable.

 Our 2 pieces of farm equipment new enough to require def, are much more forgiving than my Peterbilt rv. Once jugs of def have sat here long enough, I dump them into the farm equipment and have not had an issue. But I have to run fresh def (I have found a few suppliers that sell enough volume to never have it on the shelf for but a few days) in the Pete with it's Cummins scr. I have heard far more complaints with def issues in Cummins and Paccar than Detroit or Volvo. But that could be a local thing, I'm at the west coast.

2 hours ago, lappir said:

I'm assuming it's a Scam. I deleted the message without opening. 

 I did not download anything or open any files, just the email on hotmail. So I too will delete it.

1 hour ago, Lou Schneider said:

Do you participate at places like iRV2.com, Campground Reviews or any one of a number of manufacturer specific forums?  These are owned by Social Knowledge LLC, the parent company of RVLIFE and your information could have been gleaned there.

https://www.socialknowledge.com/our-communities/

When Social Knowledge  purchases a Forum they encourage members to sign up for free access to their other RVLIFE sites like Campground Reviews and Trip Wizard.  The recent mailing is a pitch to upgrade these free membership to paid status and IMO was a major PR blunder.  You don't have to upgrade if you don't want to use those sites.

 I would say you hit the nail square on. I did participate for a while on iRV2. I saw the social knowledge at the bottom of the screen when I googled rvlife pro. So I'm think'n you hit just what happened. Thank you.

 I received an email to the correct address, but using my screen name, not my real name, from RVLIFE pro, stating that my membership is due.

 What is RVLIFE? Before I click on anything, I figure I best ask here. I have never subscribed to anything with a fee using my screen name on a forum.

17 hours ago, rickeieio said:

I was recently asked a question about overhead clearances on public roads.  I responded that I believe any clearance under 13' 6" must be marked as low clearance.  True or false?

 So, without looking it up online, I believe 14' is the federal limit? And anything under has to be stated with signage? So even 13'6", though not low clearance, has to be stated prior to the last detour.?

 When I bought an older 12'6" van trailer for storage years ago, in discussion with the seller, it was said that most states east of the mighty Mississippi, have to this day, many 12'6" bridges and over passes, or even lower? West of the Mississippi, 14' is the engineering norm, with 13'6" trailers also being the norm.?

10 hours ago, spindrift said:

Setting a battery on concrete drains it.

 Oh, very good myth. Back in the day of tar tops and those older tech batteries, there was some truth to the draining when set on concrete, or so I was shown. Hence, the habit of setting the battery on a wood block when stored on a concrete floor.

 I have an old tar top tester. I'll see if I can get a picture and post it.

 My dad was drafted into the army during the "Korean conflict" and was stationed in Alaska. During the cold of winter there, mom and dad would take the battery out of the car and carry it into the house when not being used.

 Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe most of the concrete drain was from the old technology when vented and refillable batteries were the  norm.? Modern battery tech with sealed, non-refillable lead acids, the material used in the new cases is nearly or maybe even, 100% non-conductive? Whereas the old tech, the cases had some conductivity?

12 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

I just use one of these. Works on pretty much anything that will fit in the jaws.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-11420-Hose-Cutter/dp/B0002NYB6O/ref=asc_df_B0002NYB6O&mcid=63c194d7dcd032c4b03a06f78efa3fd1?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79989588794310&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589115543712&psc=1

 That style cutter is the best I've ever used. "when sharp" they can be used in tight places where you only have room for one hand to get to the hose/tubing. Very low effort needed to do the cutting too. 

  I probably should'nt say this as it is dangerous, but here on the farm, we use various hoses as abrasion guards for important wires and hoses. To install said hose protector, we have to slit the hose. So this style cutter is the most common here on our farm.

 I have a tubing cutter....................................somewhere,..........................just never where I need it when I need it.

 Seems the higher quality of the ptc, the more tolerant it is to the cut quality of the tubing.