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Okay need someone to explain the electronic theory (in simple terms) as to optimal way to hook up inverter/charger. So most HDTs have 3 or 4 twelve volt batteries connected in parallel. Assume appropriate size cable for the “runs” to the inverter from the batteries. Also assume the + (positive) from battery 1 is jumped to the + of battery 2 , and so on for 3 and 4. The - (negative) is the same completing the parallel connection of the batteries. Should the + cable run to the inverter/ charger be connected to battery 1 + and the - cable run to the inverter/charger to the - on battery 1 OR should it be + on 1 and - on battery 4? If the latter is this because of resistance in the jumpers from battery to battery? It seems to me + to 1 and - to 4 makes the most efficient configuration for inverting and charging especially since the first configuration when charging might result in small voltage loss to the furthest battery in the string causing unbalanced charging? I’m also assuming the charger has enough amperage to charge four batteries.

If you’re talking about my truck airline tool it is the Inficon Whisper. It’s pricey but works well. I have never tried anything cheaper. https://www.inficon.com/en/products/leak-detectors/whisper

John, This is what I bought and it works great. Just read the instructions carefully. https://www.amazon.com/Natural-Detector-Portable-Combustible-Explosive/dp/B07FSVCSSL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.6QAb4ioobtDezIhpQ4LFT0PXa5lCL7WysfS4wqlU1JO121OdR5Vv2CvQfxDM9MNJaM6xrQJuCJyEKo_wmFFLD3tTwUNKT8JF4tEela7Rm5byaf2_3OKFNYCtmYEOWF4Qi8qwOGWGM1Q_eQzsFmird9Dj0VEPlHG1Efhd4exxGqwtaqlc5qTsUEM8d_uC91ZUJbQeuEZxQNNN_JVpFUhuvzRnRVkMfnA0hr4eaAmII9A_2AuudgnH5G34d6yr2Zvo1kANZcM0m-DOkcWJkxSkTLY94kNfKI60zeV90hpociw.wUo3kbmINucJAVDmMMNIEU-5SxiG0gIkVGNM-2-SCdw&dib_tag=se&hvadid=616931139346&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9013361&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=13045725028721749059&hvtargid=kwd-30334783&hydadcr=24633_13611805&keywords=propane%2Bleak%2Bdetector&qid=1708435766&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Might try RVs for less in Knoxville.

Cotrekers post about exhaust pipes reminded me of an educational post I kept forgetting to make. First to a story. Several years ago we were making the trip from East Tennessee to the National Rally in Kansas. For the majority of the trip the wife and I were slightly nauseated with a dull headache. Thought it was travel fatigue (stupid me, my career was in the medical field). Upon arriving and milling around my truck I found the bottom of my truck muffler was completely rusted out and putting two and two together realized that we had been inhaling carbon monoxide while traveling. Thank heavens we never slept or stayed in the truck for extended periods while idling or we definitely would have had much more exposure. Muffler was replaced and all was well on return home…no symptoms! The moral to the story is ever since that incident I carry a carbon monoxide sensor in the upper bin of my truck to alert me. Cheap insurance especially if your truck is older and at risk for exhaust leaks. Put it high as CO is lighter than normal air and will accumulate at the top of the cab.

Ha, wait until you have an ECM go out. Nope, not a cheap game.

Thanks folks. Lots to consider.

Elaborate please.

Pricey but an option https://outboundpower.com/products/ecoflow-delta-pro-ultra-portable-power-station-and-whole-home-backup?currency=USD&variant=44260308779257&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&stkn=64962be9bee8&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAzc2tBhA6EiwArv-i6bkm7xw8E-8gESdiCj0HaVT5PF0F_KTs1-3222aFmEyyFLybXKocUBoCgSMQAvD_BwE

Thanks. I assume it is propane? Everything I’m reading is saying 2-5 gallons per hour at full capacity but less if not at full load. What manufacturer did you choose?

Somehow I suspect you may already have something like this, lol. And of course the tank is red with SnapOn painted on the side. Believe me I would love to have a diesel tank in my back yard area but don’t want to be lynched by the HOA.

Thanks for the input. Nigel, I have watched that video on wiring the furnace and it’s definitely worth considering. I have a 3500 kw gas powered generator for emergency and I store about 20 gallons of gas during the winter for “just in case”. If not used, it’s rotated into my cars. As for the propane, my tank is buried so heating it is not really an issue. The essential items I would like to run would be the fridge, the HVAC furnace, and some lights. I’m thinking a 22.5 kw unit might suffice. BTW truck and trailer at a storage facility so no help for solving power needs.

I have long considered adding a propane home generator to our house for use in power outages. Our HVAC is hybrid heat pump/ propane and with the recent arctic storm here in Tennessee it rekindled the issue. Thank heavens we weathered the storm without any lengthy outages unlike last year when we had several days of rolling blackouts. For those of you that have knowledge or experience with such systems would you recommend? Size? Justify cost? Manufacturer? Our home sq ft is approximately 3600 sq ft. BTW our propane tank is a buried 1000 gal. (Yes we went big, lol.)

No! Only the ambient temperature. For example wind chill will not freeze water in a container if the outside temperature is above 32* but the wind chill might be 15*.

Chet (Never Easy) is on the case! 😊. If anyone can help you figure this out remotely, he is your guy. He helped me figure out an obscure relay problem in my 2006 and actually had the appropriate replacement relay in his stash that he sent me.

I’m not a chemist but Rick is correct. DEF is 32.75% urea and and 67.25% deionized water. Doesn’t matter if it’s the Blue stuff or Walmart brand in my opinion. You can even purchase urea crystals and make your own if you were so inclined. The only way I would think it could “go bad” is if evaporation changed that ratio and the solution concentrated. At some point with evaporation you would begin to see crystal formation so if that occurred would definitely not use it. BTW you can test with one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Antifreeze-Coolant-Refractometer-Automobile-Windshield/dp/B07DLDZFJX/ref=asc_df_B07DLDZFJX/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312184309594&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2222720488000561698&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013361&hvtargid=pla-568291110880&psc=1&mcid=473b2b43b7003ff6bf7155dfeba59262&gclid=CjwKCAiA44OtBhAOEiwAj4gpOXGYNK9aZKmtMjd-YONuPRd7Z7JuHBAkFjUEYnFlCm6IoMS0fOC1yRoCr0wQAvD_BwE

I use something like this. Mine is Kobalt.

So the bracket is screwed to the bottom of the hitch in the front and the chain slips over the handle and is pinned from coming loose with the fold over pin? Is that what I’m seeing? BTW I assume you made a blood offering?

Pics?

Rick, No myth. He exists as surely as you and I. He’s that wide eyed stare you see in your 5 year old when he’s tossed in his bed all night to see if the offering of milk and cookies has been rewarded with a new bike. He’s as real as the late nights with a screw driver and crescent trying to assemble that play kitchen set. He’s the warm feeling you get when you take a wish from the Angel Tree and see a young child that has nothing get a warm coat and a teddy bear. No myth when you pick up the tab for a young couple struggling with three kids in a restaurant and realize it’s a rare occasion they can afford to go out or the same with an octogenarian couple who’s endured more than we can know. Finally, I know he exists when on this holiday I am lucky enough to have my beautiful wife, daughter, and grandchildren with me. It’s then I realize, I’m Santa Claus, we all are Santa Claus. Merry Christmas my friend!!

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all my friends. And as Rick stated, doesn’t matter your beliefs, peace and good will to all.

🫣

Hey the Kroil had almost five days of multiple soak, heat, soak cycles. I don’t think the Wurth was the final solution either. It was the longer pipe extension and leverage. So all in all, like the ancient Egyptians figured out, leverage is the solution to just about everything.

Put this thread to bed. Finally got the hose off, another fabricated, and reassembled. All is well. Will introduce another product that helped get the connection loose…Wurt Rost Off Extra along with heat. Seemed to work when Kroil didn’t. Also biggest obstacle during project was cable ties securing the hose were up under the cab in hard to reach places on special brackets. I developed a tool to access and cut those and had to remove my batteries and contort on the battery platform to reattach.

Remember from your high school “scientific method “, one fact, when proven, can rule a hypothesis (myth) false.