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Air Leak


SuiteSuccess

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Overnighting in Staunton VA on our way to Gettysburg. Heard significant air leak and traced to the green air line in the pic. Took line out, trimmed end, cleaned and reinserted. Decreased leak significantly but not completely. The push in connector looks like something I should replace but how do you replace one in that firewall manifold?

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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It appears there is but not sure it is replaceable. Here is a cutaway of a Parker push connect.

http://www.parker.com/literature/3530-2UK%20light.pdf

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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Haven't tried that. Maybe will take a q-tip and gently clean also. Thanks for the help. Any ideas on how to replace that valve?

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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Go to the dealer and get the replacement parts for the push in connector. There is an "0-ring" and a brass collet that are replaceable. The O-ring is a greenish-blue color
Here are the Volvo part numbers:
1/4 O-ring 85108484 price $0.48 (each) come in a bag of 10
1/4 brass collet 85108476 price $ 2.86 (each)
3/8 O-ring 85108485 price & 0.56 (each) come in a bag of 10
3/8 brass collet 85108477 price $ 3.10 ( each)
1/2 O ring 85108486
1/2 brass collet 85108475
To replace the parts is pretty straight forward.
Please release all the air pressure in your system before attempting this repair!
1. Depress collar on fitting and remove line.
2. Remove brass collet. I use a pair of needle nose pliers.
3. Remove O-ring. Sometimes a bit of a challenge. I use a set of " dental picks" one straight and one with a 90" bend at the end. Use the picks to remove the O-ring. Most times it will be dry rotted and come about in prices. Make sure to remove all of the pieces. Insert new O-ring and be careful not to damage it.
4. Insert collet. Most times I will use the old one if it is still in usable shape. Most times the o-ring is the cause of the leak.
5. Trim off the end of the line before inserting into the "rebuilt" fitting. I like to do this when ever I have enough slack in the line. Sometimes it's not possible. When inserting the line into the fitting press the line in until it "bottoms" out in the fitting before you pull back on it to lock it in.
6. Pressure up your system and check for leaks. Sometimes a little wiggle on the line after it is pressurized will help it seat.
After this less costly repair attempt you may still have to repair/replace your pass-thru.
Good luck!

 

On Edit: These instructions were written with the "Newbie" in mind.... Lots of folks have already been down this path. Not trying to get anyone upset. This is how I do this type of repair. No need to buy the "gold plated" Volvo brass fittings if I can just repair it.

In most cases the "fitting" is fine it's just a worn out O-ring.

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Hard to tell from the photos, but it looks like a zip tie is pulling down on that green line. Perhaps snipping that tie will release the strain and let the line "relax" and stop leaking.

 

Try aligning the line so it's straight with the fitting. If the leak stops, secure it that way until you can do a proper repair/rebuild as outlined above. Finding parts on Sunday may be difficult. Oh, larger NAPA stores carry air line fittings, and perhaps the repair parts. Easier than finding a truck dealer.......

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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Go to the dealer and get the replacement parts for the push in connector. There is an "0-ring" and a brass collet that are replaceable. The O-ring is a greenish-blue color

Here are the Volvo part numbers:

1/4 O-ring 85108484 price $0.48 (each) come in a bag of 10

1/4 brass collet 85108476 price $ 2.86 (each)

3/8 O-ring 85108485 price & 0.56 (each) come in a bag of 10

3/8 brass collet 85108477 price $ 3.10 ( each)

1/2 O ring 85108486

1/2 brass collet 85108475

To replace the parts is pretty straight forward.

Please release all the air pressure in your system before attempting this repair!

1. Depress collar on fitting and remove line.

2. Remove brass collet. I use a pair of needle nose pliers.

3. Remove O-ring. Sometimes a bit of a challenge. I use a set of " dental picks" one straight and one with a 90" bend at the end. Use the picks to remove the O-ring. Most times it will be dry rotted and come about in prices. Make sure to remove all of the pieces. Insert new O-ring and be careful not to damage it.

4. Insert collet. Most times I will use the old one if it is still in usable shape. Most times the o-ring is the cause of the leak.

5. Trim off the end of the line before inserting into the "rebuilt" fitting. I like to do this when ever I have enough slack in the line. Sometimes it's not possible. When inserting the line into the fitting press the line in until it "bottoms" out in the fitting before you pull back on it to lock it in.

6. Pressure up your system and check for leaks. Sometimes a little wiggle on the line after it is pressurized will help it seat.

After this less costly repair attempt you may still have to repair/replace your pass-thru.

Good luck!

 

On Edit: These instructions were written with the "Newbie" in mind.... Lots of folks have already been down this path. Not trying to get anyone upset. This is how I do this type of repair. No need to buy the "gold plated" Volvo brass fittings if I can just repair it.

In most cases the "fitting" is fine it's just a worn out O-ring.

Scott: You astound me! You are a wealth of knowledge. I have been chasing leaks (without success) since I bought the "Big Boy." I may make another attempt to fix these annoying, pesky leaks.

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Mr. Seas,

 

I assume just pulling on the collet rim will remove it or do you have to get a hold of the "insides"?

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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Thanks again Scott.

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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I believe these type fitting are floating around in a lot of the different rigs regardless the make. I only have the Volvo part numbers for now. I hope to x-ref them and maybe get a better deal on the price. A demonstration at the rally would be easy to do and only take a few minutes.

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Maybe can use my truck for the demo if I don't get this done. Right now leak is minor.

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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Suite,

When I was chasing air leaks, I found a couple minor leaks on that "green" line. I did like you, removed line, clipped the end, reinstalled. It helped, but then the line next to it started leaking. I did the same to it, but couldn't stop the leak, so cut some of the zip ties to relieve the tension and tried again. From then on, it seemed like I would get one fixed, only to have the one next to it start leaking! That was really 2 years ago. I know we shouldn't worry so much about oil, and air leaks, but they drive me crazy. At that time I don't think there was a repair kit like the one mentioned in previous post, so I replaced the manifold, dash valve, many, many push-pull connectors, and stopped most of my leaks. Still couldn't get them all. This summer, I purchased a "Whisperer", and found my engine brake valve was leaking, and after gallons, of soapy water, found that leak would never show with soapy spray, because it leaked back into the exhaust. Couldn't hide from the whisperer though. Now, after some stops, I never lose pressure, then sometimes I still do, but never below 60#. I also replaced my "pass through" wiring harness because of a small oil leak that was leaking on the starter motor.(big bucks) I still crank out the whisperer every once in a while, but mostly I just try to keep fuel in the tanks, oil in the crankcase, and air in the tanks, and don't worry about MPG, and SMALL oil, and air leaks. Still a happy camper! Good luck, Dick T

2006 Volvo VNL 630(VED12 400HP)
10 speed autoshift,3.58 gear 236" twin screw, w/ET, Jackalopee, Blue Dot
2016 Space Craft 37'

Blu/Dot, Dexter 8K triple axel, HD Drum hydraulic brakes

Feather lite air ride
2005 Jeep Rubicon
2007 Suzuki DR 650

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Suite, The description Scott gave is spot on. I replaced all of my O rings in about an hour and that stopped the leaks. I did not have any dental tool but I used a large needle and a small screwdriver. I also used a pair of needle nose pliers to get the collets out. They remove easy. DON'T drop them. I dropped one and never found it. If I would not have had another one I would have been screwed.

I used the screwdriver to cut the O ring and then the needle to fish the pieces out. They were hard and would not seal. It is not a bad job if you have the parts to replace them and a little patience. Also they are not expensive parts. Just another demo to give at the rally.

 

Brad

Brad and Jacolyn
Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier
2009 Smart "Joy"
2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo"
2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition
VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218"
Fulltiming and loving it.

 

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Thanks Dick and Brad. Gonna go to HF when I get home and get some dental pics then by Napa or Volvo for the parts.

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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Brad, did this fix that leaking manifold through the firewall????

MY PEOPLE SKILLS ARE JUST FINE.
~It's my tolerance to idiots that needs work.~

2005 Volvo 780 VED12 465hp / Freedomline transmission
singled mid position / Bed by Larry Herrin
2018 customed Mobile Suites 40KSSB3 

2014 smart Fortwo

 

 
 
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Hi Phil,

Yes, this stopped the manifold leaks and it was easy. Like I said just don't drop the collets because they will disappear and then you are screwed if you don't have a replacement.

 

Brad

Brad and Jacolyn
Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier
2009 Smart "Joy"
2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo"
2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition
VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218"
Fulltiming and loving it.

 

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Evidently the part numbers posted by Mr.Seas are good throughout out the Gen 1 and 2. Just replaced 3 O-rings and 1 collet that were leaking.

Easy swap once the kick panels are out. I used a 3/8th open end wrench to press the collet in and then pulled the airline out. Then used a pair of side cutters to remove the collet.

 

We're holding air again!

Alie & Jim + 8 paws

2017 DRV Memphis 

BART- 1998 Volvo 610

Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins

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How much of an air leak do you guys feel is acceptable? I loose almost nothing from the primary system over a day or so, but loose 50 psi from the secondary overnight. Fixed the suspension valve and that helped a lot.

1999 Peterbilt 385 C12 430/1650 13spd

2006 Dodge 3500 DRW 4x4

2010 Hitchhiker Champagne 36 LKRSB

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How much of an air leak do you guys feel is acceptable? I loose almost nothing from the primary system over a day or so, but loose 50 psi from the secondary overnight. Fixed the suspension valve and that helped a lot.

 

 

If that is all you are loosing then I don't think you have anything to worry about. My tanks will empty in a few short hours. Once the weather cools off some (post Rally) I will roll the truck in the shop and start hunting for my air leak problems.

2017 Entegra Anthem 44A

SOLD - 2004 Volvo 780. 465hp and 10sp Auto Shift (from 2010~2017)

SOLD - 2009 Montana 3400RL

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I was really surprised about my latest air leak fix. I hunt air leaks for a living and have never found a significant leak on my own truck, but will empty my tanks in a day. Last year at the rally I used Carl's (Suite Success) leak detector that showed I had leaks from the connections behind both seats. They weren't loud enough to hear unless you wiggled the connection and I never bothered to play with them. When I replaced the floor mat 2 weeks ago I pulled both seats out and I trimmed the ends of both airlines when I reconnected them and was surprised to see my suspension stayed aired up for almost an entire week. I guess it shows that even little leaks can add up.

MY PEOPLE SKILLS ARE JUST FINE.
~It's my tolerance to idiots that needs work.~

2005 Volvo 780 VED12 465hp / Freedomline transmission
singled mid position / Bed by Larry Herrin
2018 customed Mobile Suites 40KSSB3 

2014 smart Fortwo

 

 
 
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