Dash Air Valve Replacement Pics/Notes

[RandyA]

This is the conclusion or second part of a post I made asking for help and tips replacing a dash air valve on a 2004 Volvo VNL670. Many thanks to all who replied. Your replies certainly helped me to accomplish this job.

 

Ahhhh... its done! Like William Shakespeare wrote when he came up with a title for one of his comedy's, it was "Much Ado About Nothing" - on my part, anyway.

 

Per the request of Carl and Charlie, I did make some photos and notes during the replacement. I will share those here:

 

The replacement valve arrived yesterday afternoon. Below is what it looks like from the front and back.

 

 

 

All of the push-on connectors are pre-installed as part of the new valve. Included are new yellow and red knobs.

 

I had a Volvo repair bulletin that referenced taking out all sorts of stuff to get to the valve - things like the radio, fuse panel and, instrument cluster. I found none of those items need to be removed, but lifting out the instrument cluster did make the job a little easier since I could move the six air lines forward for reassembly with less tugging.

 

Anyway, this is what the dash on my 2004 Volvo currently looks like. Yes, I have moved some switches around and added some new ones as well. Pre-2003 models have the dash arranged differently and may require additional/different steps .

 

My first step was to gently pry off the lower trim molding (brown thing). It is held in place with spring tabs that go into plastic slots in the dash. The yellow arrows point to a tab and a slot. There are several along the molding so work slowly and carefully (yes, part of the pictured slot is broken, but it still holds the clip.).

 

EDIT ADDED on removal steps of trim pieces thanks to info from Ray Nomad:

"....looks like you removed that "wood grain" trim piece from left to right. The left side of the trim piece (to the right of the steering wheel) should have a plastic "hook" and that piece should come off from right to left. As the clips are released moving to the left the piece will pull to the right to disengage the "hook".

A little hard to explain and I don't have any pics or diagrams. Just the opposite is true if removing the trim piece to the left of the wheel. Seems like there are more of these trim pieces missing that "hook" than not."

 

 

On the very end of the molding there is a lip that slips under the front center fuse cover. You might want to remove this cover to get the final clip loose but I was able to do so with the cover in place.

 

 

 

Depress the spring pins (yellow arrows) that holds each knob on with something small like a 1/8" drill bit and pull the knob off - that is unless you are unlucky enough to have your knobs attached with roll pins.

 

 

Remove the T25 Torx screw shown.

 

 

Lift off the outer dash plate exposing the mounting plate for the valve. Remove each of the T25 Torx screws indicated.

 

 

I elected to remove the six Phillips Head screws holding the mounting plate to the valve body. Be careful since removing this plate can cause all of the old valve plungers and springs to deposit themselves in your lap.

 

 

You can now pull the valve out from the dash far enough to access the six air lines and release collars.

 

 

 

If you take a few seconds to remove the instrument cluster access to the air lines is improved, especially when pushing them back into the new valve.

 

Take out the two Torx screws holding the right side of the cluster to the dash. Note these are threaded screws and NOT sheet metal like the other Torx screws. You need to know this for proper re-assembly. Gently pry down the upper molding over the cluster. Note: All orange arrows.

 

 

On the left side remove the Torx screw from the bottom of the light switch/vent bezel (black arrow), unplug the green connector (white arrow) by squeezing the lock tab on the bottom of the connector and remove the left instrument cluster retaining Torx screws (orange arrows).

 

 

You can now lift the instrument cluster out of the way letting it rest to the left of the steering column. This gives you access to the tubing bundle that you can pull a couple of inches to give you more access for re-attachment of the air lines.

 

 

Remove the valve by disconnecting the six air lines. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to push in on the brass collars (white arrow) while pulling on the hose. This is a kind of awkward maneuver but if you hold your mouth just right it will work.

 

 

Push the air lines into the fittings on the new valve following the same color position as the original. Be sure the lines are in tightly by giving each a tug to make sure they do not come loose.

 

Reverse the disassembly to put everything back together. I did NOT take the six Phillips head screws out and remove the mounting plate before installing the new valve. I had plenty of room to reattach the air lines with the plate on.

 

____________________________________

 

As Chet noted there is a repair kit for the valve. I intend to obtain a kit and rebuild my old valve for "the future" and just to do it. Now that it is apart I see that nothing more than new O rings, springs and seats are needed after the valve body is cleaned. On my valve one of the O rings had worn and slipped up creating a leak.

 

Everything from start to finish took about an hour, including making photos. I think I could cut that time in half if I were doing it again.

[SuiteSuccess]

Randy,

 

You are truly a jewel. Thanks so much for the pics and description. As always I print a copy for my files then bookmark for future reference. We need to have a new section in the resource guide entitled Randy's Remedies. On a serious note, Mark could this description be included in a tab in the resource guide?

[SuiteSuccess]

One other question, did you trim the ends of the lines before reinserting? And what was the part number, blurred on the pic?

[RandyA]

One other question, did you trim the ends of the lines before reinserting? And what was the part number, blurred on the pic?

No, I did not trim. The 3/8" air lines appear tougher than the 1/4" and did not show a "depression" where the fitting grabs the air line - the ends were perfect as-is. I did clean them off with some alcohol before putting them into the new valve.

 

To avoid any part number errors it is best to give your Volvo dealer the last 6 digits of your VIN when ordering a part like this valve. While I suspect it would be the same valve on your 2006 as my 2004 I would hate to be the cause of a wrong part should some differences exist. Best to be safe and get the part number for your truck from your dealer shop.

[NeverEasy]

Sweet! I think I will get one of those rebuild kits and keep in the spares box. Didn't see your name on the ECR list. I will miss seeing you there.

 

Chet

[sclord2002]

Randy, thank you for the excellent pics and write up of your dash valve replacement. It will be a great help to those of us who need to repair/replace the valve. When you get your repair kit, please let us know the cost of the kit, if you don't mind. Charlie

[RandyA]

Sweet! I think I will get one of those rebuild kits and keep in the spares box. Didn't see your name on the ECR list. I will miss seeing you there.

 

Chet

 

Chet, below is a pic of the disassembled valve less an O ring and another piece that were still hidden under the floor mat when I made the pic.

 

Looks like an easy rebuild. I have not checked to see if Volvo has a kit or if I have to look elsewhere. If you find a source before I do please let us know. From the info in the .pdf I shared in my original post it looks like the kit might be the Haldex RN31BF but I need to recheck valve part numbers to be sure. BTW - The new valve ended up being less than originally quoted. I was charged $230 which included tax and shipping.

 

Can't make ECR this year. Too much time spent in SW Florida this winter and a need to get back to home base early April to see doctors and file taxes. .

 

EDIT: I think I found the kit. Look here. $30 is better than $230 if you have time and patience .

 

[Dollytrolley]

Holy cow Randy...... What a great set of instructions regarding your dash valve(z) replacement...... it seens that you might be relapsing back into your prof-days and all of us "students" had better pay attention......

 

The only downside is that now retired hackers might change over to pilfering dash valves now that your great instructions out for all to see.

 

What a great resource for all of the rest of the HDT students........ allmost makes "test-day" fun (except for $$$ of a new valve).

 

Great work!!

 

Happy travels

 

Mike, Carol & Dolly the paint-horse

[SuiteSuccess]

Can't make ECR this year. Too much time spent in SW Florida this winter and a need to get back to home base early April to see doctors and file taxes

 

 

 

 

Definitely gonna miss you. Charlie has already promised a smoked pork butt so that will make it a little better. Safe travels and hope the taxes are low

[SunJuniper]

awesome Guide for a 2nd gen truck. and luckily yours doesnt have Roll pins.

 

my first gen had roll pins when i changed mine. takes a few more minutes but

not much harder to change. i didnt put roll pins back in mine though. i had the

tools to remove the roll pins so it wasnt bad. if you dont have the tools , its not

as easy.

 

once again. awesome guide RandyA

[ray.service]

 

My first step was to gently pry off the lower trim molding (brown thing). It is held in place with spring tabs that go into plastic slots in the dash. The yellow arrows point to a tab and a slot. There are several along the molding so work slowly and carefully (yes, part of the pictured slot is broken, but it still holds the clip.).

 

 

On the very end of the molding there is a lip that slips under the front center fuse cover. You might want to remove this cover to get the final clip loose but I was able to do so with the cover in place.

 

 

Me thinks your valve has been replaced before because you had those spring pins.

Also, looks like you removed that "wood grain" trim piece from left to right. The left side of the trim piece (to the right of the steering wheel) should have a plastic "hook" and that piece should come off from right to left. As the clips are released moving to the left the piece will pull to the right to disengage the "hook".

A little hard to explain and I don't have any pics or diagrams. Just the opposite is true if removing the trim piece to the left of the wheel.

Seems like there are more of these trim pieces missing that "hook" than not.

[RandyA]

Ray - it may have been replaced before but there is nothing in the extensive paperwork I received with the truck that tells me one way or the other. I am just glad that the spring pins were there and not the roll pins.

 

OK on the molding removal. Mine were broken when I got the truck and I later replaced with some good ones from a wrecked truck snagged out of a bone yard. I did not know about the "hook" since it was most likely broken off previously (maybe from early valve replacement???).

 

Thanks for sharing the additional info. I will make a note in the details so no one will mess up their molding.

[Bob Cochran]

I am jealous as my Freightshaker valve had threaded fittings into the valve and not the nice push to connect as yours had. That is why i suggested taking pictures because of the need for several angle fittings and their locations was critical or you would never get them back and the thing done. I had the bloody hands to proof it!!!! As usual excellent explanation with accompanying pictures we have come to expect from your work. Even us non Volvo guys learn from them!!!

[RandyA]

Bob, I found some valves on eBay that were less expensive than what I bought after I replaced mine.. But, they did not have the quick connectors as you mentioned. (pic of one shown below). I wondered about the difficulty in changing the connectors but you explained that quite clearly .

[Bob Cochran]

Yep looks like the one I got from Freightliner and exact match for the one I removed. Was interesting getting connectors threaded in tight enough to not leak and still at the right angle to work.