Road to Escapade
Escapees Escapade events - info on who, what, where and how
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By Pat & Pete · Posted
Hmm , those rigs sound a lot like a 'high maintenance' girl I once dated . Not satisfied unless there was big money wine and indoor plumbing . -
You seem to be speaking of a "slide out" and they do have adjustments. But there could also be wear on the mechanical parts that play a part in the problem. How does the slide work, is it electric motor with a drive gear, or electric with a worm or screw type of drive, or is it hydraulic driven? Do you know if it works at all. -
By Ranger Smith · Posted
First thing I would do is run it all the way out then back in . . . It might be that simple to fix the thingie -
By WILDEBILL308 · Posted
These type of threads are always fun because of the diverse opinions. Hear is my opinion based on my experience and background. Yes I have actual training and ran a oil analysis lab when in the AF. First the oil of today is not the oil your grandfather used. The oil companies love those who still believe in the 3000 mile oil change. Dirty little secrets oil does not where out. Oil becomes contaminated and the additive package is depleted. The engines of today run many times cleaner than those your Grandfather had or even your father. First thing is if you are under warranty follow the manufactures instructions to the letter and have documentation. Now for those who want to extend their change intervals (low use or just extend it) I would start a oil sampling program. The big thing I see is at least 2 people talking about taking a sample when you drain the oil. This is the wrong way to do it for a couple of reasons. 1 when you take the sample from the oil stream draining out you are prone to get contaminates swept up by the fast moving oil off the bottom of the pan. This will give you a false reading. 2) you need to pull the sample with a little vacuum pump (you can buy them from the website) and a tube down the dipstick tube, being carful to not hit bottom and suck up contaminants. I use the length of the dipstick as a guide on how long to cut the tube and mark it. The reason you do this and have the results back BEFORE you drain your oil is if you get a false reading like really hi iron or al. you want to do a re test to verify the results. If you have dumped the oil you have no way to verify weather it was correct or not. In the example Kirk W posted if his Were really hi the only alternative would be to borescope the cylinder's or do a teardown to see what was going wrong. As it is he needs to find out why he has so much fuel in the oil. Bill -
By BobandBarb · Posted
Forgive me if I butcher the jargon. Thingie doesn't always cover everything. The Slider? Pop out? room extension? yeah, that thing. It sticks out maybe 1 1/2 inches at the bottom and not at the top. I have never used it and don't know what the deal is. Am I going to have issues when I try to open it? If I key it on and try to close it flush, is it going to cause issues? Is there a way to get them back in if or maybe when they get stuck that doesn't involve calling some one out? I can't run it all the way out until I fix the leaky leveler, which will be another post.
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