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Kevin H

Dump Valve Upgrade

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I have the ubiquitous Valterra dump valves on my 2013 Montana.  The seals need replacing.    If I'm gonna crawl around under there I may as well upgrade if there are better options.  Any suggestions for higher quality valves?

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I don't know if there are "better", but I added a final "The turd stops here!"  additional manual valve just ahead of my dump connection for leaks.

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 I would suggest stoping at a auto parts store and get a tube of dielectric grease. It is pure silicone,  Cover the new blade and seals of the new valve. It will work much easier and will not leave deposits form on it.

 

  

 From experience,   Vern

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2 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

 I would suggest stoping at a auto parts store and get a tube of dielectric grease. It is pure silicone,  Cover the new blade and seals of the new valve. It will work much easier and will not leave deposits form on it.

 

  

 From experience,   Vern

I'll second that^ . The gates function much nicer with a bit of lube . :)

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On 2/3/2020 at 12:57 AM, Kevin H said:

I have the ubiquitous Valterra dump valves on my 2013 Montana.  The seals need replacing.    If I'm gonna crawl around under there I may as well upgrade if there are better options.  Any suggestions for higher quality valves?

Are you sure the seals are leaking? - *If* your valve/s are either electric -or- (most likely) actuated by a remote pull - make sure the cable is not the culprit.  After lots of pushes and pulls - there may be slack or a kink.  Replace the cable, and bingo!

OK - so that's not the problem. -  be ready for cramped working space where the valve is located. ...as well as extra work if you choose to replace the entire valve (rather than the parts).  Been there, done that - real PITA,   Great.reason to check the cable, etc. -  As posters noted - dielectric silicone is a good idea also.

Another option - as posted.....add a "secondary" valve somewhere close to the end of the 3" drain.  There's also a "must carry" Valterra twist-on valve to use at the slinky connection (about $15) as an emergency back-up.

......not a fun chore!...😕....might be worth letting RV repair do it.

Good luck......"down under" !!

 

.

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Thanks everyone.  Yah, I am going to have a fun day underneath the rig - again!  I replaced the valve seals recently.  The black is smooth and fine, the gray is extremely hard to push in and out and the tank is not holding fluids.  I think the seals did not seat properly.  That's what prompted my question.  I figured that since I will be under there I'd upgrade if possible.  The really high end units, New Horizon, Spacecraft etc, come to mind.  Do they use the Valterra devices too?  I don't think a macerator is in the stars for me at this time.

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3 hours ago, Kevin H said:

Thanks everyone.  Yah, I am going to have a fun day underneath the rig - again!  I replaced the valve seals recently.  The black is smooth and fine, the gray is extremely hard to push in and out and the tank is not holding fluids.  I think the seals did not seat properly.  That's what prompted my question.  I figured that since I will be under there I'd upgrade if possible.  The really high end units, New Horizon, Spacecraft etc, come to mind.  Do they use the Valterra devices too?  I don't think a macerator is in the stars for me at this time.

Our grey valve has always seeped a little , for whatever reason .

So , I wouldn't have to do major surgery on the system , I bought and have used a dual flush pro with gate valve . Killed 2 birds with a single gate valve , as the built in tank flush system never worked , either . ;)

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The most common valves are probably Valterra but there are also valves from Camco, Bristol and San Tee. I have always used Valterra and have had very little problems with them, even when fulltime. I have always flushed things out well regularly and I also put a quart of vegetable oil into each tank when empty to lube the valves a few times per year. 

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3 hours ago, Kirk W said:

I also put a quart of vegetable oil into each tank when empty to lube the valves a few times per year. 

That's an excellent idea! Why have I not heard this before?

Linda

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9 hours ago, sandsys said:

Why have I not heard this before?

I was taught to do that many years ago by reading some maintenance hints in one of our first copies of Escapees Magazine. I have heard it mentioned or have mentioned it myself occasionally, but not recently. What do is to pour it into the drain and the toilet immediately after the tank is emptied. I use the drain closest to the gray tank to avoid leaving too much of it in the P-trap. I then let it sit for a hour before I add the usual water to the black tank for use and I flush the affected P-trap with a gallon or so of hot water to remove any residue. I started doing that about 2 years before going fulltime and have not replaced any dump valve on our RVs since. Now that we are part-time again I do this as a part of putting the RV back into service after storage.

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Water is also an effective lubricant.  After emptying the tanks I pour about a quart of water down a drain and through the toilet, enough to fill the tank outlet and keep the valve wet.

This keeps any residue on the valve soft and pliable.  If you let the residue dry out, it hardens and can damage the seals when you open and close the valve.

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On 2/8/2020 at 11:10 AM, Lou Schneider said:

  If you let the residue dry out, it hardens and can damage the seals when you open and close the valve.

 

"If you let the residue dry out........"   - AKA...The Mountain of Doom !!...😕

Also - Ditto on the Mtn & the Veggie oil info - - (from my first TT in 1976!)

.

 

 

 

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When I stored my van I poured mineral oil in the toilet bowl to keep the flapper moist and sealed. Mineral oil doesn't evaporate like water does. And it doesn't go rancid like vegetable oil can.

Linda Sand

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I’d like to add this twist on valve to the end of my dump as a last resort secondary valve (And allow me to equalize the two gray tanks)... The one thing I worry about is that it’s a twist on valve and I would worry that travel road vibrations would cause it to come loose and fall off... Any suggestions on a semi permanent way to secure it?

 

 

8DD628B8-2523-4A1B-80A4-61ABDDFE0C84.jpeg

Edited by KRum

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If you are certain that you will never need to remove it, you could glue it in place. I would look for some way to prevent it turning that you can change if you should wish to remove it. If there is a mounting bracket or something near to it that you could fasten it to or even add an extra bracket. 

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Use a short self tapping screw with a pre-drilled small hole to lock it in place. Easy to remove if needed. In the photo you can see the screw I used to lock the 45 degree elbow in place, and the back side of the twist-on valve is done the same...

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Edited by Dutch_12078

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Unless you are unusually unlucky, the 'fail-safe' valve will not come loose.  Have traveled 1000's of miles with one on the end of my drain pipe on the Suites, never moved.  It will not, however, survive hitting a tree stump....

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3 hours ago, KRum said:

I’d like to add this twist on valve to the end of my dump as a last resort secondary valve (And allow me to equalize the two gray tanks)... The one thing I worry about is that it’s a twist on valve and I would worry that travel road vibrations would cause it to come loose and fall off... Any suggestions on a semi permanent way to secure it?

 

 

8DD628B8-2523-4A1B-80A4-61ABDDFE0C84.jpeg

What I did ( see my previous post ) . Only ours has the back flush and is see through . 

It's been years since I put it on and I don't know how many thousands of miles . Hasn't fallen off , yet . ;)

Edited by Pat & Pete

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Be aware the Camco version of that valve has a flexible coupling between the flange that connects to the RV and the valve body so the valve assembly and output connector are free to rotate.  Could be a problem if it rotates the wrong way and allows the valve handle to contact some debris as you're driving down the roaf.

A bit of PVC glue will lock the valve assembly in place after you determine the correct position for your rig.

Edited by Lou Schneider

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1 hour ago, Lou Schneider said:

Be aware the Camco version of that valve has a flexible coupling between the flange that connects to the RV and the valve body so the valve assembly and output connector are free to rotate.  Could be a problem if it rotates the wrong way and allows the valve handle to contact some debris as you're driving down the roaf.

A bit of PVC glue will lock the valve assembly in place after you determine the correct position for your rig.

The Camco dual flush valve I have ( pictured above ) is solid end to end . Nothing flexible . 

Maybe a newer version has a flex/swivel 'section' ? 

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