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NeverEasy

TOW POINTS FOR A 2016 SMART

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Looking to buy a 2016 Smart that is out of state.  I want to go put it on the back of the Volvo and bring it home.  
Any help with tow points (even chains) would be most appreciated.  When I get it home I will do whatever is necessary for long term loading.

 

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Driving up is not a good option for us.  Our bed was an early build.  We bought it like it is. The height of the bed makes it a really step incline.  I changed the 10 foot ramps to 12 feet but it is still very steep.

 

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83tUprdl.jpgChet,

Not sure I quite understand what you’re asking but there are two tow points on the back under the black tabs.  There is one on the passenger side front (two in older models).  The tow hook is stored under passenger side floor cover.  If loading from the side just elevate the ground ends of your ramps several inches and it will decrease the break over angle to keep you from dragging during the load.  Are you going to winch it up or pull it up with another vehicle?  If so you will need some type of pulley riser to not put excessive downward force on the suspension while loading.

Edited by SuiteSuccess

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Putting a piece of 1/8" angle iron in the ramp hinge will reduce the breakover angle by about 2.5".  Putting a couple of 2x8 or 10's under the dirt end of the ramps will reduce it even more.  Not all Smarts have the same ground clearance. Plastic underbody parts fastened on by plastic fasteners get ripped off if caught on bolts fastening the ramps to the deck, that's why I don't bolt them to the top of the deck but pin them thru the side of the truck body.  They are just as secure.

I have an A frame fitting into a couple of receivers on the passengers side of the truck deck, 2 ton Warn winch is in the compartment below.  Kevlar cable runs across the deck thru a pulley on a receiver at the rear of the car and returns to the A frame, fastened with a load bearing Carabiner.  The idea is to reduce the jerkiness of the winch and slow down the winching process to allow for minor corrections while car is on the way up.  Crank down the window and you can turn the steering wheel part way up, after that is too high, you can twist the front wheel for minor adjustments.

Try to load it square or perpendicular to the sides of the truck deck.

Pics of this whole process have been posted before.  Items have been modified over the years to speed the process up, eliminate injury, and reduce the chance of damaging the car, hence reducing the chances of showing up on 'Fail Army' or UTubes epic failures.

One more thing, DO NOT let anyone help you or talk to you during the loading and unloading process.  If you miss a step....mistakes can be expensive or painful.  I sometimes go to the back 40 of a park to load and unload.

I have tons of pics of the  whole evolutionary process.

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3 hours ago, NeverEasy said:

Driving up is not a good option for us.  Our bed was an early build.  We bought it like it is. The height of the bed makes it a really step incline.  I changed the 10 foot ramps to 12 feet but it is still very steep.

 

Hi Chet,

I hope I am reading your thread correct. It sounds like you need some ideas how to get the car on the deck of the truck to bring it home. This is just thinking aloud. The farmers use a bank to help load equipment on to their trucks. Is there a loading dock close by ? Maybe some one would have a Jeep or any other vehicle with a winch to help get the car up the ramps for the first time. Sounds like you need MacGuyver.

I hope some of my thoughts can give you an idea or two.
Al

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You should easily be able to load onto a deck that is 48" off the ground. Especially if you find some higher ground for the 12' ramps. Or do the things suggested with boards. I'd be shocked if you had a bed higher than 48" with air dumped. Driving it on will work quite well, especially if you find slanted ground. It does not take much of a hill to make the loading process simpler.

 

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Thanks for all the info and suggestions.  I have a 2011 and load/unload it frequently.  I use a winch for up always and down most of the time.
We would be picking the 2016 up in NYC at a dealership.  Probably not many options for sloped ground.  

I can bring it up forward or backward. The single tow point on the back would work if one tow point will hold it going up the ramp.  Trying to avoid a "fail" and problems so far from home.  





 

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You can get 2 from the rear, I've done it and it's plenty strong.  Instead of me posting them again send me your e-mail and I'll send them plus explanations.

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1 hour ago, NeverEasy said:

Thanks for all the info and suggestions.  I have a 2011 and load/unload it frequently.  I use a winch for up always and down most of the time.
We would be picking the 2016 up in NYC at a dealership.  Probably not many options for sloped ground.  

I can bring it up forward or backward. The single tow point on the back would work if one tow point will hold it going up the ramp.  Trying to avoid a "fail" and problems so far from home.  





 

 

1 hour ago, rdickinson said:

You can get 2 from the rear, I've done it and it's plenty strong.  Instead of me posting them again send me your e-mail and I'll send them plus explanations.

Chet,

As stated there are two tow points on back.  The pic I showed is my 2013 where I “created” the 2nd tow point.  Load from the back and you should be fine.  Good luck. OBTW the Smart only comes with one hook so you might want to pick up a second if you want to use two points.  For a couple of loads one point front or back should be strong enough.

Edited by SuiteSuccess

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The 2016 453 model smarts only have a single tow point in the front and rear. You can always drive to a bank, terrace wall, small hill or anything higher to help drive it on.

As noted above, use a three level set of blocks under the bottom of the ramp (24", 18" and 12" long) that will gain you 4.5 inches and drop the rear suspension for another 4" or so. That combined with a rise in the ground (or back the truck into a shallow ditch) should be enough to get you loaded and home.

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Howdy All,

As this thread is about "Tow Points, on a Smart Car" I thought I would throw this out and see what knowledge I can gain which may be of use to others with older Smart Cars.  My Smart Car, is a 2013, it has two tow points in the rear that have from the factory caps on them, it also has ONE tow point on the front from the factory which again is covered by a cap.

I drive my Smart Car on to the truck but I would like to winch it at times like when the ramps are wet, I have driven it up wet ramps and was darn lucky not to have had a major problem as the darn car starts sliding sideways as it goes up the ramps. 

Which brings me to my question, I have heard that there is a second tow point on the front of the older Smart Cars that is built into the frame but is not accessible because there is no hole from the factory in the front plastic of the body. Again I have heard that if a person takes careful measurements from the factory drilled hole in the front and transfers those measurements to the other side of the front plastic a HOLE can be drilled which will give access to that second tow point.

Can anyone confirm that this is true, if it is true I want to drill that hole so that I can winch my Smart Car from the front up and on to my truck.  Any help or confirmation of this that anyone can offer will be greatly appreciated, thanks.  A photo of a car that has had this done to it would be great.

Dave

Edited by mr. cob
cuz I kant sqel

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3 minutes ago, mr. cob said:

Howdy All,

As this thread is about "Tow Points, on a Smart Car" I thought I would throw this out and see what knowledge I can gain which may be of use to others with older Smart Cars.  My Smart Car, is a 2013, it has two tow points in the rear that have from the factory caps on them, it also has ONE tow point on the front from the factory which again is covered by a cap.

I drive my Smart Car on to the truck but I would like to winch it at times like when the ramps are wet, I have driven it up wet ramps and was darn lucky not to have had a major problem as the darn car starts sliding sideways as it goes up the ramps. 

Which brings me to my question, I have heard that there is a second tow point on the front of the older Smart Cars that is built into the frame but is not accessible because there is no hole from the factory in the front plastic of the body. Again I have heard that if a person takes careful measurements from the factory drilled hole in the front and transfers those measurements to the other side of the front plastic a HOLE can be drilled which will give access to that second tow point.

Can anyone confirm that this is true, if it is true I want to drill that hole so that I can winch my Smart Car from the front up and on to my truck.  Any help or confirmation of this that anyone can offer will be greatly appreciated, thanks.  A photo of a car that has had this done to it would be great.

Dave

Dave,

It is absolutely true.  Look at the picture I posted above and what you described is what I did to the front of my 2013 Smart.  I don’t remember the measurements but if you are careful and either take careful measurements from the left side or make a template out of cardboard you can get it done.  I made a small pilot hole to see I was lined up then used a hole saw ( believe it was 1” but measure size of factory hole).  You can get the black inserts at Lowe’s or Home Depot to cover the hole when not using.  I used to have pics of the process and if I find them will post.

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Dave,

Went through my project pictures and don’t have any of when I measured the front.  If you see from pic in post above, I used a level to come from a reference point on the edge of the grill and measured down to the center of the hole then leveled across and measured.  As smart as you are this should be an easy fix.  BTW you’ll have to buy another tow hook online since our cars only come with one,

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13 minutes ago, SuiteSuccess said:

Dave,

It is absolutely true.  Look at the picture I posted above and what you described is what I did to the front of my 2013 Smart.  I don’t remember the measurements but if you are careful and either take careful measurements from the left side or make a template out of cardboard you can get it done.  I made a small pilot hole to see I was lined up then used a hole saw ( believe it was 1” but measure size of factory hole).  You can get the black inserts at Lowe’s or Home Depot to cover the hole when not using.  I used to have pics of the process and if I find them will post.

Howdy SS,

Well that will teach me to read the ENTIRE thread before asking a question. :wacko:

THANK YOU.

Dave

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