high voltage batteries and wrenches

[Sehc]

I haven't seen a post recommending proper safety glasses when working around batteries. A short can cause flying slag. On some battery chemistry the whole thing can erupt. Play safe.

[GlennWest]

Actually I wear safety glasses 100% of the time

[bobsallyh]

Yes, and don't forget to remove jewelry while working on batteries. I had a friend that about lost his ring finger when his wedding band arched between a positive battery post and a ground on an Airstream diesel pusher. The batteries on that rig were absolutely a PITA to change or work on.

[GlennWest]

Gosh, have not worn jewelry in many years

[Randyretired]

2 hours ago, bobsallyh said:

Yes, and don't forget to remove jewelry while working on batteries. I had a friend that about lost his ring finger when his wedding band arched between a positive battery post and a ground on an Airstream diesel pusher. The batteries on that rig were absolutely a PITA to change or work on.

Where I worked for a number of years jewelry was forbidden for that reason.  When we were married I told my DW I don't want a ring because I can't wear it most of the time.  Still don't wear any jewelry. 

[GlennWest]

On 12/31/2019 at 3:51 PM, jcussen said:

I did use the Midnite Solar 250's  because each string puts out 240 volts., They only handle 63 amps, so needed two. Do you think 5200 watts will fit on the roof even with no roof airs?

I need to apologize to you. Don't know what I was thinking when I stated 5200 watts on my roof. 4k is doeable, maybe a little more. I can get 12 300ish watt panels or 10 400ish watt panels. I might could find some narrow panels for the center if worthwhile and that would give me more, Again my apologizes

[Daveh]

1 hour ago, GlennWest said:

I need to apologize to you. Don't know what I was thinking when I stated 5200 watts on my roof. 4k is doeable, maybe a little more. I can get 12 300ish watt panels or 10 400ish watt panels. I might could find some narrow panels for the center if worthwhile and that would give me more, Again my apologizes

Still A LOT. I am thinking of pulling my ac unit (Such junk).  Interested in how your project goes.

 

[GlennWest]

Yes, compared to a minisplit they are. jfyi, the mini splits we have are super great. Cooling and heating good. Only down side is the mini splits don't heat the floor up well. Basically no heat pump does. So the propane furance is still used for this. I would never go back to standard rv units. If we lost our Teton, pray that never happoens, whatever we got will have mini splits. And price is a wash out.

[Randyretired]

What size mini splits do you have Glenn?  I am thinking of adding one to our Teton.  Much more efficient and quiet. We will probably use it more for heat than AC.

[GlennWest]

I have 2 12k units.The Pioneer units. One is 120v and the other 240v. We were forced to go 240v due to nowhere in bedroom for a wall unit. There are no 120v ceiling cassette units that I can find. Our ceilings are taller than most.The single living room unit cooled well but even with a good fan to pull air in to bedroom, in Texas heat, it didn't cool bedrrom well. But until temps got into 90's it done well. Both units do great. We can get it into 60's in 100 degree heat. They heat well. That one unit in livingroom mostly heats entire unit.as hot air rises. But as stated earier, the floor doesn't get warm with heat pumps. They are fairly simple to install. All you need are some flare nut wrenches, vacuum pump, rent and return free, from most auto parts store. Same with guages. Got mine form Highseer.com

[Daveh]

Glenn where have you installed the outdoor unit portion?

 

[GlennWest]

I fabbed a steel support off the rear chassis. I recently installed one on a freinds unit that works with me. Fellow welder. He had a reciever hitch on his from factory. We reinforced it but question if needed. Welders tend to build heavier than necessary. Built a steel angle iron shelf for it to bolt to. Drove wedge onto tube to elimate any movement and tacked it. Solid as mine. He insisted on powering it from outside service pole dispite what I said. Kept throwing breaker. GFCI. Went back and ran line from his breaker box and all was well. Welders are also very hard headed. I should know. lol. On mine, I had a flat pad welded to my chassis for bumpers at rear of my Teton. Four botls holding it in. Removed and bolted steel tube to it after welding pad on it. Welded my frame to this. This paid off for me since I ended up with two units back there. I had considered putting it in generator area up front. But knew I would be going with a volt or leaf battery pack later and needed that room for it. You would have to supply a air intake and exhaust. It would be consealed though.

Edited January 11, 2020 by GlennWest

[Randyretired]

Thanks Glenn.  I have been leaning towards the Pioneer 12k and I think you convinced me.  I put a hitch on our Teton and planned on tapping off of that.  I have gauges and a pump from fixing auto AC's so it should be fairly straight forward.  How much power do the units draw on average?

[GlennWest]

Most I have seen is 7 amps. Manual states 1400 watts max with heat. Pulls most when heating. Average  900-1000 watts according to manual. Don't have a device to read watts from wire. Lowered our power bill considerably.I installed it in a park we were paying for electricity. 

[Daveh]

1 hour ago, GlennWest said:

I fabbed a steel support off the rear chassis. I recently installed one on a freinds unit that works with me. Fellow welder. He had a reciever hitch on his from factory. We reinforced it but question if needed. Welders tend to build heavier than necessary. Built a steel angle iron shelf for it to bolt to. Drove wedge onto tube to elimate any movement and tacked it. Solid as mine. He insisted on powering it from outside service pole dispite what I said. Kept throwing breaker. GFCI. Went back and ran line from his breaker box and all was well. Welders are also very hard headed. I should know. lol. On mine, I had a flat pad welded to my chassis for bumpers at rear of my Teton. Four botls holding it in. Removed and bolted steel tube to it after welding pad on it. Welded my frame to this. This paid off for me since I ended up with two units back there. I had considered putting it in generator area up front. But knew I would be going with a volt or leaf battery pack later and needed that room for it. You would have to supply a air intake and exhaust. It would be consealed though.

I am thinking of buying a basic and smaller  hitch cargo carrier and modifying that. I may wait until this summer as there is a welder that does some work for our park and I may hire him to design something more specific. I did think a carrier would be a good starting point but maybe he would rather do it from scratch.

My other option is the front generator area. I am concerned about airflow though? I know I would need to have it open unless I put some type of grate over it. The other thing I was considering was putting a hole in the bottom of the generator area so when we were stopped I could lower the unit  with linear actuators. I am worried though that the copper tubing and stuff will not allow this movement and create a leak?

[Randyretired]

Thanks again Glenn.   What is the seer rating of the units and how far back from the rear of your 5er is the unit mounted?

[GlennWest]

17 minutes ago, Daveh said:

I am thinking of buying a basic and smaller  hitch cargo carrier and modifying that. I may wait until this summer as there is a welder that does some work for our park and I may hire him to design something more specific. I did think a carrier would be a good starting point but maybe he would rather do it from scratch.

My other option is the front generator area. I am concerned about airflow though? I know I would need to have it open unless I put some type of grate over it. The other thing I was considering was putting a hole in the bottom of the generator area so when we were stopped I could lower the unit  with linear actuators. I am worried though that the copper tubing and stuff will not allow this movement and create a leak?

You could use a section of flex hose for that. Some fairly good hoses on the market. Used for commercial applications. Secure copper where no stress on it. Very doeable. Had considered that also. I have heard nothing but praise for mine  in rear from others. No one has commented on "bad looks" except one on facebook. 

[GlennWest]

11 minutes ago, Randyretired said:

Thanks again Glenn.   What is the seer rating of the units and how far back from the rear of your 5er is the unit mounted?

21.5 seer. Mine is about 5 inches from rear. I had it farther back  to begin with. I shorted tht distance when I reworked it for the second. That is all that is needed.

[Daveh]

Good to know. Thanks Glenn. 

 

[GlennWest]

[GlennWest]

You can see from the picture, I had to raise mine to clear lights when second was installed. Lines aren't noticable when down lower. Considering putting a cover on them. There is flex on the left one. That was the first one. It not necessary for this appliction.

[Randyretired]

Many thanks Glenn!  As far as looks, anything that is different turns some people off.  I think it looks fine.  The RV AC is so noisy and inefficient I can't wait to not have to use it.

[Daveh]

Looks nice Did you have that powder coated?

[GlennWest]

No, just spray can. Powder coat would be nice though. I didn't have time. Did this between jobs. That is actually a rush  job.