Turbo install on Volvo VNL with the 12.1 liter.

[Parrformance]

I spent 4 hours this morning removing the turbo from my EGR equipped VED12d Volvo in my VNL 780.

When I receive the replacement and get it installed, should I prelude this turbo with fresh oil before starting the truck?

Any other tips on this procedure?

Thanks,

Michael

[Darryl&Rita]

Pre-lube by pulling the ECM fuse, and cranking over the engine a bit. Replace the fuse, and go to town. Before you get that far, make sure the clocking of the turbo flanges is identical. Close will only make you curse. 

[Parrformance]

10-4, thanks.  If the flanges are not clocked correctly, can I loosen the larger clamp and adjust?

[Darryl&Rita]

Yes. In fact, expect to have to align the flanges. There's just too many applications for a one size fits all. You may get lucky, but don't count on it. 

[Parrformance]

10-4 Thank you for you advice.

All the EGR piping and the large exhaust brake assembly will be daunting to get lined up again.

The cold side has a coupler and two large O-rings, should I replace these while it's apart? 

Should I use antisieze on anything?

[DesertMiner]

 Double check  the torque requirement on the clamps. 

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

2 hours ago, Parrformance said:

10-4 Thank you for you advice.

All the EGR piping and the large exhaust brake assembly will be daunting to get lined up again.

The cold side has a coupler and two large O-rings, should I replace these while it's apart? 

Should I use antisieze on anything?

I would replace the O-rings while its apart.  They're old, and have been thru miles and heat cycles.  When I was playing with the Cummins 5.9 engines, I always used anti-seize on the studs or bolts on the exhaust side connections. 

[Parrformance]

Thanks Jim, will do.

[GeorgiaHybrid]

If you decide to use anti seize, get some nickel based instead of copper based.

[Parrformance]

✔ Nickel based is what I have 9n hand👍

[rickeieio]

4 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

If you decide to use anti seize, get some nickel based instead of copper based.

Hmm.  I always thought the copper based was generally for high heat.  I also thought, you never use nickel based with stainless, and his fasteners may be stainless, or some nickel content.  Where am I going wrong?

[Mark&Bonnie]

Rick. Back in my nuclear days. We always used nickle based on stainless fasteners. Even in the aircraft engine business today, nickel is what we use on all of our stainless fixtures. Mark

[rickeieio]

Mark, thanks for the info.  A long time ago, I was told, by someone I trusted, that I shouldn't use nickel based when installing stainless fasteners into aluminum parts, because you want dissimilar metals.  Apparently that was false, or was it because of the aluminum?

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

17 hours ago, rickeieio said:

Mark, thanks for the info.  A long time ago, I was told, by someone I trusted, that I shouldn't use nickel based when installing stainless fasteners into aluminum parts, because you want dissimilar metals.  Apparently that was false, or was it because of the aluminum?

 

I was taught the opposite. Never use copper based with aluminum (aluminum based in that case) and we always used nickel based in high heat areas. It will help when the times comes to remove exhaust bolts and studs from manifolds, headers, turbos and the like as the nickel based stuff is good to 2,300 or 2,400 degrees or so.

[rickeieio]

Now I'm really corn-fused.  I googled "high temp anti-seize" and found both copper and nickle based by Permatex.  I keep both on the bench.

[rpsinc]

And to add to this mix, new products are formulated differently from what we used when 

19 hours ago, rickeieio said:

A long time ago, I was told, by someone I trusted, that I shouldn't

Its an Old Guy thing for sure.  The most important thing about all of this is that our good training has taught us that we use anti-seize.  No dry fitment!

[rickeieio]

I remember the first time I saw someone using it.  He was carefully coating every thread of each fastener, and I thought, "What a waste of time."  Now I rarely assemble something without a dab.  Might be the wrong color, but it's better than nutt'n.

I found one product that's white and metal free.  Ceramic dust perhaps?

[Mark&Bonnie]

Rick. I am a cesspool of worthless information. But I use nickle on everything. Never in my professional career have I used copper based. But that don't mean I'm right. I could be wrong, but just my experience. As Dolly Trolly would say Continue On. Mark

[Parrformance]

Turbo is in, thank you Daryl for the advice on clicking the turbo, both sides needed adjustment. Thank you Jim, went to the dealer and got all the seals I rings gaskets etc and replaced with new.  

Truck pulling much stronger now.

I used antisieze on just about everything. 

Thanks all for the help and advice.

One thing if you tackle this job yourself on a Volvo, remove the three oil filters and the oil filter housing FIRST, then proceed to R&R the turbo.

Michael

[Cotreker]

How many miles were on the truck when you had to replace the Turbo?

Dennis

[Parrformance]

978,755, I have no idea if it was original turbo, but it was an OEM turbo. The turbo had the VOLVO on the cool side.

[Cotreker]

Thanks, I might be OK for a few hundred thousand miles, trying to get my Volvo to turn 300,000 miles.  My darn job is getting in the way.

Dennis

[Parrformance]

Someone told me to expect to replace the turbo every 500,00 miles.  Your good.  do check the impeller in the cold side next time you are checking the air filter.  Look for play and especially a missing/chipped vein. 

Edited January 30, 2020 by Parrformance
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