mr. cob Posted November 22, 2019 Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 Howdy All, As I have ordered the new seats I thought I would start working on getting old seats ready to remove. Started on the passenger seat, it is held in place by 4 bolts, all were snug but they broke free, 3 came out the 4th one loosened about three maybe four threads the started to spin with out coming out. Of course its in a spot where you can get anything under the head to lever it up while turning it with the socket. As the other 3 bolts are out I tried placing a small piece of pipe under the seat mount and putting pressure on the seat using it as a lever to put upward pressure on the bolt while turning it with the socket, this was not successful. So if anyone has any suggestions on how to get this darn bolt out I sure would appreciate hearing about them, THANKS. Dave Quote 2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types. Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Rick Posted November 22, 2019 Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 Use a flat head screwdriver under the bolt head prying upward. May work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted November 22, 2019 Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 Dave, do you have one of these? https://www.toolsource.com/damaged-nut-removers-c-1321_173_177/universal-nut-cracker-716-to-34-inch-p-69712.html Not too handy in tight places, but it may work. I've used a hammer and chisel to expand nuts, then cut a slot in the end of the bolt for a screwdriver. Quote KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NDBirdman Posted November 22, 2019 Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 Sounds like the nut on the other end busted loose? Can you get to it from underneath? I use an angle grinder with cutting wheel to remove these but they do throw a lot of sparks. Might be a pain to get too, but your probably going to have to access the nut from under the floor to put a new bolt in anywayz. If you can get to it, a pair of good channel locks to hold the nut would work. Quote 2002 Fifth Avenue RV (RIP) 2015 Ram 3500 Mega-cab DRW(38k miles), 6.7L Cummins Diesel, A668RFE, 3.73, 14,000 GVWR, 5,630 Payload, 27,300 GCWR, 18,460 Max Trailer Weight Rating(For Sale) , living in the frigid north, ND. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance A Lott Posted November 23, 2019 Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 Can you get a sawsall between the floor and the seat? You could drill it out by holding the head with vice grips. As was said you will probably have to access the nut for replacement any way so can you cut the nut off? Or put vice grips on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve from SoCal Posted November 23, 2019 Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 I have had that issue, I used a vise-grip on the cage nut from the bottom. Steve Quote 2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift 1996/2016 remod Teton Royal Atlanta 1996 Kentucky 48 single drop stacker garage project Pulls like a train, sounds like a plane....faster than a Cheetah sniffin cocaine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr. cob Posted November 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 Howdy All, Thanks for your suggestions. I should have done a better job of explaining what it is I am up against. The cab of the Perterbilt is made from aluminum, there are threaded steel inserts secured to the aluminum cab, the threaded insert is NOT turning, it is still secure, the bolt is spinning in the insert. So I am "assuming" that the bolt started to back out and then stripped either the treads in the insert or the bolt thread themselves. No room to even put a hack saw blade inside the seat bracket where the head of the bolt is located, it is inside of a box structure. Again because of the box structure no way to get under the head of the bolt with a tool like a crow bar, I have tried as long of screw driver as I can get under the head of the bolt, pulling up with a vise grip is impossible again because it is inside of a box structure. I could use just a hacksaw blade to cut the bolt off if it were placed under the seat mount and on top of the floor, however doing so would leave no way to get a hold of the bolt as it would cut off flush with the floor. This is a conundrum unlike any I have had to deal with in the past. Dave Quote 2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types. Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockylarson Posted November 23, 2019 Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 This will grip it and perhaps give the lifting leverage you need" BROKEN BOLT EXTRACTOR Quote Jan and Rocky Larson, Volunteers, USFWS , 9,300 hours each. 29 refuges since 2006. 2 new each year. 2004 Allegro 30DA, Workhorse 8.1, Banks, 2012 Jeep Liberty, Blue Ox Aladdin, 300 watts solar, 5 Optima group 31 AGM's, 2000w PSW inverter Philippians 4:11-13 KJV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted November 23, 2019 Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 Can you get to the underside and drill it out? Quote KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARGO Posted November 23, 2019 Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 Cut it off with a whiz-wheel and deal with the (now flush) bolt afterwards. Worst case scenario- leave it in there & drill a new hole nearby in the seat base & new seat.. Quote You'd have to see the movie to understand.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERO Maker Posted November 23, 2019 Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 3 hours ago, rockylarson said: This will grip it and perhaps give the lifting leverage you need" BROKEN BOLT EXTRACTOR Looks like a tool to have, but I don't think it will work for you with that problem. I'm thinking like Mr. Pope with a slight plan of Argo's, grind off the top of it, once you get the seat removed you can drill down into the bolt (you'll have plenty of room) and then replace it with a nut and bolt of your own (assuming you can get under the bed to place another one. Quote Rocky & Sheri Rhoades '01 Volvo 770 2016 DRV Mobile Suites, HoustonHERO Makers Ministry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARGO Posted November 23, 2019 Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 Another trick (if you have a buzz box & are "adventurous") is to clamp the ground near the floor part, and stick the rod right smack on the bolt, hold it there for a few minutes. Will warm that bolt up right fine. Or "creative engineering 101", weld a nut on top of the stub by reaching inside the nut and arc'ing it to the top of the stub Quote You'd have to see the movie to understand.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad & Jacolyn Posted November 23, 2019 Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 Can you get any kind of grinder or a dremel to the bolt and cut it off? I would worry about a new bolt after the seat was out and you have more room to work. Don't stress that knee. Brad Quote Brad and Jacolyn Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier 2009 Smart "Joy" 2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo" 2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218" Fulltiming and loving it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sehc Posted November 23, 2019 Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 Get a pry bar that is used to pull nails. Use it to pull the screw out as if it was a nail. Deal with the hole after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sehc Posted November 23, 2019 Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 Or use this type tool to cut the bolt head and proceed as others have posted. https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=oscillating multi tool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr. cob Posted November 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 Howdy All, Again THANKS for all of your suggestions. Its colder then heck out this morning its supposed to get up to 36 degrees this afternoon, I'll go out to the truck when it warms up a bit and try to get a decent photo of where this bolt is located, all of the tools that have been suggested won't work as there is no room to use them. If all else fails I may try to jam something under the mount to where I can use just a hack saw blade to try and cut the bolt off. Cutting the bolt off will allow the seat to be removed, at that point it might be possible to weld a nut onto the top of the cut off bolt and then somehow pry up on it whilst turning it with a socket in an attempt to remove it. The only I could get under the truck to gain access to even looking at the floor under the seat is if I put the truck up onto a lift, I don't have any ramps that would begin to support the truck. There are air tanks under the doors which look to be almost under the area that the seat mount it located possibly blocking access to the floor under the seat. Dave Quote 2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types. Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve from SoCal Posted November 23, 2019 Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 You are ultimately going to have to deal with the problem. This is a cage nut or rivnut that is broken free, I have had good success using vise-grips on several, a few I had to blast out. The back right bolt? The exhaust and air tank are below the bolt, you may not have room to access the nut without removing the tank or exhaust elbow? Quote 2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift 1996/2016 remod Teton Royal Atlanta 1996 Kentucky 48 single drop stacker garage project Pulls like a train, sounds like a plane....faster than a Cheetah sniffin cocaine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted November 23, 2019 Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 Turn welder wide open and a 6010 or 6011 if AC welder. Burn that bolt out. I have done and even still use the threads. Quote 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr. cob Posted November 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 40 minutes ago, GlennWest said: Turn welder wide open and a 6010 or 6011 if AC welder. Burn that bolt out. I have done and even still use the threads. Howdy Glenn, I sold my Arc Welder many years ago now I use a Mig, I too in the past have done as you suggested. Dave Quote 2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types. Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr. cob Posted November 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 Howdy All, Sorry for the poor photo, it's hard to even get in a position to see this bolt let alone work on it. It doesn't show up very well but there is a lip in front of the bolt that is about an inch high, there is no way to get any sort of tool into where this bolt is to cut it off or grind it off. Even hammering a crow bar underneath the mount I can't get it high enough to cut it off even just using a hack saw blade. Dave Quote 2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types. Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sculptor Posted November 23, 2019 Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 (edited) You said it backed out a bit then just spun right? It wasn’t enough to allow a crowbar underneath but it’s loose. Only one bolt holding it down? If so grab the top of the seat or base farthest away, for leverage, bend the whole assembly until you can get a saw or cutting wheel on the bolt. Or cut and bend that flange flat for access. Looks like you might be painting it anyway so a few repairs should not matter. Just my 2cents. maybe cut a slot down the flange (lip) and across the base right through the head of the bolt. Then when you pry as above the base metal will split open. Edited November 23, 2019 by Sculptor Quote Kevin and June 2013 Volvo VNL 730 D13 Eco-Torque @ 425 Ratio 2.47 2014 DRV 36TKSB3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr. cob Posted November 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 12 minutes ago, Sculptor said: You said it backed out a bit then just spun right? It wasn’t enough to allow a crowbar underneath but it’s loose. Only one bolt holding it down? If so grab the top of the seat or base farthest away, for leverage, bend the whole assembly until you can get a saw or cutting wheel on the bolt. Or cut and bend that flange flat for access. Looks like you might be painting it anyway so a few repairs should not matter. Just my 2cents. maybe cut a slot down the flange (lip) and across the base right through the head of the bolt. Then when you pry as above the base metal will split open. Howdy Sculptor, I understand what your saying, doing it is another matter. I have fought this for over two hours today, if its not raining I'll work on it some more tomorrow. Dave Quote 2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types. Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I'mdonewiththis forum Posted November 24, 2019 Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 Dave, can you get the other three bolts out? If so, pull them then you can rock the seat and base in order to put something under the base to lift it and cut the bolt or possibly get enough pressure on the bolt to screw it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr. cob Posted November 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 8 minutes ago, Mntom said: Dave, can you get the other three bolts out? If so, pull them then you can rock the seat and base in order to put something under the base to lift it and cut the bolt or possibly get enough pressure on the bolt to screw it out. Howdy Tom, Take my word on this, I have tried everything I can to include what your talking about, I can't get into the mount to use any type of saw, I can't get under the mount to saw the bolt off, if its not raining tomorrow I am going to try using a carbide bit to grind off the head of the bolt. I can get to the head of the bolt with the die grinder but its going to be an extremely slow and messy process. Dave Quote 2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types. Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted November 24, 2019 Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 Dave, Can you put a small cut off wheel on your Die grinder? If it an air straight shaft die grinder, you may be able to use a half used wheel to cut thru the head/shaft of the bolt you have exposed. Quote Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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