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GlennWest

adding a 50 amp recepticle

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When I change my Teton over I want to add a recepticle to the front of our Teton. Be easier to wire and can benefit from it up front. I looked on Amazon but was not real impressed with what I saw. Anyone done this and where did you source yours from?

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If you are looking for a forward location to attach your current 50 amp, twist-lock cord I think you'll need something like this:

50 Amp Power Inlet

Hitchiker offered both front and back connectors on their fifth-wheels as an option. To do this safely you'll need to incorporate a power-transfer relay so that the prongs on the unused connector are not hot when the other connector is being used. Similar to the switch used between a shore-power source and an on-board generator. 

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I like the receptacle that DesertMiner posted better than the Amazon link that I posted. I just didn't find that one...

The stainless steel one is the same as on our Hitchhiker. 

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Years ago on irv2.com a member( electrician) from LA did this on his 5er. He had a portable genset mounted in a frame he built and bolted onto the pin-box. He could start the genset an hour prior to arriving at a CG, and the 5er would be cooled off by arrival time.

Now Boliy gensets have an optional remote electric start feature, which would enhance that configuration.

Edited by Ray,IN

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10 hours ago, GlennWest said:

When I change my Teton over I want to add a recepticle to the front of our Teton.

You are thinking of a place to connect from the power source to the RV, and not one for a neighboring RV to share power from you? If so I would go with one of the suggested types but I would also install some type of change over switch to make only one available for use at a time, just as a safety device. I once helped a friend wire a home-built RV for 50A service and we put a Marinco socket near each end of his RV for ease of connection to shore power. He also did that with his city water connection. 

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Glenn, FWIW I like the marine grade twist lock power inlets with stainless steel hardware and caps. If you Google such I saw relatively cheap ones (more all plastic then any stainless) up to over a hundred dollars !!!! (Camco, Valterra, Marinco etc)

https://www.bing.com/search?q=50+amp+weatherproof+rv+inlet&src=IE-SearchBox&FORM=IESR3A&pc=EUPP_UE00

  If you're going to have two inlets hard wired in parallel  one, of course, will have exposed live terminals under the protective cap when the other is plugged in, which a transfer switch could eliminate but that's all straight forward easy wiring.  

John T 

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1 hour ago, GlennWest said:

would a 4PDT 220v coil relay work for this?

A 4PDT relay can work provided it's rated for the voltage and amperage and wired correctly. Coil voltages are likely available in low voltage up to 120 or 240 so that shouldn't be a problem. There are all sorts of automatic transfer switches out there also....

John T

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4 hours ago, Sehc said:

I had a Smartplug on our trailer. The cords are fantastic even at 15F.

The issue had was working with dogbone adapters. I never wanted to buy the expensive Smartplug male cord ends so I would drag out the 50' Smart cord then plug the dogbone into it.

Smartplugs are great for boats where the shore plugs are the No.1 cause of fires but I haven't heard of the issue with RVs

 

 

Edited by ALLOY

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2 hours ago, DanZemke said:

Make sure to leave room around it for the 6/8ga wiring and getting a screw driver to the terminals top and bottom.

The switch below has 2-50 (6ga) amp and 1- 30 (10ga) amp inputs. I was able to cut the hole in the PVC box to rotate the switch and be able to cover it with the face plate.

The LED indicator lights on the BSS switch interfered with the Progressive EMS so the LEDs were disconnected.

****System says the image limit is 102kB but the image is only 54kb

Trasfer SW.jpg

Edited by ALLOY

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Alloy,

Appreciate the info, especially about the EMS.  I have a Progressive too, so you probably saved me significant time and frustration.

Thank you!

Dan

Edited by DanZemke
clarity

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