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Atwood Water Heater GC66AA-10E

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Atwood Model GC6AA-10E gas intermittently fails to light.  Sometimes "tapping" on the gas valve seems to work. 

Question:  Can the Gas Valve be dismantled and repaired?

 

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4 hours ago, Darryl&Rita said:

No.

Agreed.

Propane valve failure is actually quite rare. LP pressure regulators do fail and several other things are much more common, such as the igniter probe. I can only recall seeing 1 supply valve failure in my 40+ years of RVing and many years helping other to work on theirs. 

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The  board, like the gas valve, seldom goes bad. Atwood even states that in their service and repair manual. The most common cause of flame failure is corroded ground surfaces.

I just went through all this last month, after hours of testing and probing, I re-cleaned all my mounting surfaces and plug-in connections. I think the control board connections were corroded, I used a pencil eraser to clean them This time it lit and worked properly. I have ran our water heater from cold to shut-off 3X since then and it has worked as designed every time.

 

IF you wish to test the gas valve solenoids, they should show 40-50 ohms - EACH. Both must open to allow gas to flow.

The control board testing procedure is really quite simple if you have a multimeter, or continuity meter. It goes like this"

 " ValveTrack Test
Voltmeter Red probe on 'edge connector' valve track where Red wire would be
Voltmeter Black probe on 'edge connector' ground track where Green wire would be
NO continuity....circuit board bad"

Or you can opt to buy/borrow a circuit board testing unit as described and pictured  (pg 17)in the service manual.
I cannot take credit for the above,  I was sent the information by an acquaintance.

Edited by Ray,IN

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10 hours ago, Ray,IN said:

The  board, like the gas valve, seldom goes bad.

The profile doesn't indicate that Wally has been back to see what has been suggested, but I'm sure he is thinking that the tapping on the valve indicates it has or is failing. I suppose that is possible as it could stick shut, but I suspect it has not. It could be that there is a grounding or connection problem that tapping effected. I would remove and reseat all of the plugs to the circuit board and all connections to the igniter probe first, but I'm not sure our advice is being read. 

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11 hours ago, Kirk W said:

The profile doesn't indicate that Wally has been back to see what has been suggested, but I'm sure he is thinking that the tapping on the valve indicates it has or is failing. I suppose that is possible as it could stick shut, but I suspect it has not. It could be that there is a grounding or connection problem that tapping effected. I would remove and reseat all of the plugs to the circuit board and all connections to the igniter probe first, but I'm not sure our advice is being read. 

I agree; then he could be just reading replies and trying the suggestions as he comes to them.  The 12V solenoids on the gas valve are grounded to the valve body, so tapping could have disturbed corrosion enough to somewhat reconnect a  ground.

When I was working on my water heater, I counted 5 possible grounding sources/issues. My reply was not my opinion, everything described is contained in that Atwood service/training manual.

Edited by Ray,IN

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Thank you guys for responses.  I just got back to this so just saw them.  I won't be able to test the unit for a few days but will check both the grounding issues and the circuit board.  At a quoted $179.00 I want to check other possibilities before buying a new gas valve.  

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