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I am trying to wire a brake controller in my truck, but after talking to a couple of technicians, and looking myself my International Prostar does not have a brake light switch, aside from the trailer connector. at least a 12 v one. Since  I would rather not splice into the wiring of the connector. Does anyone have a part number for a dot airline T with a normally open switch that i could just add into the brake system air line?  It seems like that would be the easiest way to get get my electric brakes to come on when i step on the pedal.

Thanks in advance.

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1 minute ago, house said:

I have heard the hayes controller does not work with electric over hydraulic brakes.

 

Not true, I used one on my 99 Volvo and Jim Roach still uses one on his 99 Volvo pulling DRV's with hydraulic brakes.

Roger

 

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3 hours ago, Hewhoknowslittle said:

Not true, I used one on my 99 Volvo and Jim Roach still uses one on his 99 Volvo pulling DRV's with hydraulic brakes.

Roger

 

Correct, On the Hayes.  On the older trucks the Tuson brake controller may not integrate with the trucks software.  So it's either use the Hayes or convert the trailer with a Blu-Dot system as Glen West has.  There are people that get away with using a Tekonsha P3 controller but they are not as effective as they don't sense the deceleration of the truck like in a pick up.  

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Call Tuscon brake directly and ask the boss Felice One'.  Their system is new tech and lightyears ahead of what it replaced.  It can tell me if all the brakes are pulling enough amps or not.

Ask her directly, they are constantly upgrading their system.

Felice One

Tuson RV Brakes, LLC

Office: 800-968-8766 ext. 219

www.tusonrvbrakes.com

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I had a Hayes (the new type) on my truck when I switched to electric over hydraulic.  The Hayes could not be adjusted to stop from skidding the tires on the RV no mater how gently I put the brakes on.  I had to tape a small block of wood to the manual activation knob to limit the movement of the controller.  Lucky for me, I found a new Max Brake controller that works great.  

Also, putting an air device in the brake line that is just 12VDC on/off is a bad idea.  It will provide full 12VDC to the brakes at every closure of the switch.  It  will definitely slid the tires.

 

Edited by NeverEasy

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NeverEasy,  I need something to provide a brake pedal signal to my brake controller, not simply hooking the brakes up to it.  I have looked at the Direct link and may go that route but it uses the same Tekonsha plug that requires a brake pedal signal to activate the trailer  brakes, even though it uses ODB to determine the braking power from what I got from talking with them.

 

I pull several different trailers so going air over hydraulic is not really an option for me.

Edited by house

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Looks like International #2021313C1 for inside the cab or 2035006C2 if outside the cab and a KV2T07-00 tee would be the parts I'd try if needing a non pipe threaded switch.

 

Or if you do end up finding the factory switch, use a KV2U07-99-1 plug in Y, plug that in, then old switch into that, and a short piece of airline to the new switch and a KV2H07-00 union hooking them together.  (stem switches won't fit side by side in the Y)

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8 hours ago, house said:

NeverEasy,  I need something to provide a brake pedal signal to my brake controller, not simply hooking the brakes up to it.  I have looked at the Direct link and may go that route but it uses the same Tekonsha plug that requires a brake pedal signal to activate the trailer  brakes, even though it uses ODB to determine the braking power from what I got from talking with them.

 

I pull several different trailers so going air over hydraulic is not really an option for me.

I can’t comment on the Direct Link specifically as I have never worked with them. But, all the brake controllers I have been around use the brake light connection for both a brake signal and to turn the brake lights on when the slide bar used.

When I set mine up the best I could do was to connect to the Jackalopee so the trailer lights come on with the slide bar.

Edited by Moresmoke

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21 hours ago, rdickinson said:

Call Tuscon brake directly and ask the boss Felice One'.  Their system is new tech and lightyears ahead of what it replaced.  It can tell me if all the brakes are pulling enough amps or not.

Ask her directly, they are constantly upgrading their system.

Felice One

Tuson RV Brakes, LLC

Office: 800-968-8766 ext. 219

www.tusonrvbrakes.com

Yes call these people at Tuson.  I finally trashed my Hayes and bought a new Tuson.  I first bought one about 2 years ago with the HD module but it wouldn't work so I explained this to Tuson rep and he said I could send it back which I did and bought the Hayes unit...pia is all I can say.  Didn't work well enough for my satisfaction.  When it went TU,. Air Force maintainer parlance for "tits up"..I called Hayes and the tech said well we can't help.  Sooooo I start pricing the Tuson something like 350 or something like that.  Checked on the "Western wheels" I think, not sure but they sell alot of this kind of stuff as well.  They said on sale for 250 and 124 for the HD truck module...so I got it for less than what Tuson wanted.  Went to register everything but it all went to Tuson.  When I got a email from them...I told her what had transpired and they had not a problem registering the purchase.  Removed the Hayes and plugged in the Direclink and fired her up.  Works better than the Hayes.  You won't be sorry.  My rig is a 1997 Volvo WIA64 singled toten a 2013 cyclone th.

Ben

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I have a Tuson in my 06 Dodge won ton works great. 

I have a Hayes in my KW dooly works great. My KW has um, electric lights, starter, alternator, and speedometer. The rest is kinda mechanical. The Hayes can be operated by the foot valve or the trailer brake control for hill start aid, convenient tug test when hooking up, and playing Billy Big Rig.

 

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I may have mentioned earlier that according to the controller I was drawing about13 to 13 amps when applying the brakes.  Tuscon said that was not enough, should be close to 18.  So I got a DC clampmeter from Amazon and managed to get under the trailer to test the draw per wheel.  5 read around 2.3 and one read zero.

So the DC clampmeter works and so does the readout on the controller screen.

They have recently come out with a tpms.

 

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53 minutes ago, rdickinson said:

I may have mentioned earlier that according to the controller I was drawing about13 to 13 amps when applying the brakes.  Tuscon said that was not enough, should be close to 18.  So I got a DC clampmeter from Amazon and managed to get under the trailer to test the draw per wheel.  5 read around 2.3 and one read zero.

So the DC clampmeter works and so does the readout on the controller screen.

They have recently come out with a tpms.

 

What gauge is the brake wiring on the trailer?  When we had the Carrilite, I pulled #8 wire for the electric brakes and they worked much better.

 

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There were 2 white wires going into the hub. My guess is 14g.  They were the only ones seen.  It's really tight under there and needs the trailer jacked up to get a good look.

What you say makes sense.  If I could see where they splice into a heavier wire, I could check it there.

Thanks

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The brake light output on all controllers is to tell people behind you and your trailer that you are activating the brakes utilizing the manual override (not using the brake pedal). If you have a Jackalopee run that wire into the Jackalopee and crimp it together with brake light push on for the truck brakes. This way the truck brakes activate the brake lights and the controller activates the brake lights. The brake lights don't care who is doing this.

Lot easier that tearing apart dashboards and splicing into things that require "education".

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Ah pardon. Never worked with Tucson (I'm an air over hydraulics disciple), does Tucson require a brake light input to sort of "wake up the electronics", "get going, this is for real, send the current to the trailer" deal?

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