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Lance A Lott

Starting on a hill with IShift

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How do you do it, left foot brake, parking brake? I dont have hill assist. The Alison in my school bus never roles back but the Volvo does and I dont think the horse will like it. I dont like to show my ignorance but pride befor a fall and all that.

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I don't have an iShift, but I do have an UltraShift.

I use my left foot on the brake pedal and right on the gas. It works nicely once you try it a few times.

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My DirecLink was shipped last October and was held up for a week or 2 while a new software upgrade was installed.  So, I don't know how old your system is but it may be able to take an upgrade ...not sure, you'd have to contact Tuscon.

Felice One    Last name pronounced Onay

Manager

Tuson RV Brakes, LLC

Office: 800-968-8766 ext. 219

Email: felice-one@tuson.com

Website: www.tusonrvbrakes.com

 

The 'Hill hold' feature is something that has to be programmed in by using  the remote...push this, push that, now return and push something else.

If you get stumped, call Felice and she will put you in touch with one of her techs and they will walk you thru the process. 

Another feature of the system is it will tell you whether all your brake magnets are working.  Each one is supposed to pull about 3 volts and mine was pulling 12v which for a triple axle was about 6 short.  I think it was Nigel who told me an ordinary compass will swing when power is applied to that particular wheel.  That hasn't been tried yet.

If the compass works it is a lot easier than crawling under the trailer and using my Snap On digital voltmeter with the sharp point to poke the wire and my finger.  The wires are buried behind shocks and  Moreryde system.

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3 hours ago, rdickinson said:

using my Snap On digital voltmeter with the sharp point to poke the wire

We really don't want to be poking holes in wires.  It lets in moisture and corrodes the copper.  Don't ask how I know.🙄

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I don't disagree but the 'clamp around the wire device'  used in AC doesn't work on DC, I'm told.  So what other options are there that will work.  It is tight quarters under there especially rolled up on one shoulder to try to hold the wire with one hand and the probe with the other and try to avoid another of many punctures in my finger all of which are a source of discomfort and soaking in soapy water to avoid infection.

I asked Bob at Fennels RV, he said they would be having to do the same thing.

The only other way for me to get under is pull the trailer ahead up on a ramp/block for each wheel.  To get this  23k beast off the ground we've used an air assisted jack and even that was pushed into the ground a bit.

Hey, if you have a better way don't keep it a secret.

Edited by rdickinson
typo

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I'm just a ol' heater & a banger ironworker,  but seems to me that a  small alligator clip with a bit of tape for insulation and an appropriate length of stranded ignition wire ought to get you out from under your rig. And yes, you can buy  "store bought"  leads.  

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I'm just a ol' heater & a banger ironworker,  but seems to me that a  small alligator clip with a bit of tape for insulation and an appropriate length of stranded ignition wire ought to get you out from under your rig. And yes, you can buy  "store bought"  leads

OK, and attach it to what where?  It needs to be out from under to be any good.  Whether I'm trying to reach in an awkward area on one shoulder or poking holes in wire or fingers in the same area doesn't help.

I will look up DC clamp meter.  I have asked a couple of people and they both told me 'no'.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&id=CE746AA9E8420CB8529D379F908E01D829D68F53&thid=OIP.4xoNTMIKreIItFL_pb8x9gHaFj&mediaurl=https%3A%2F%2Fftaelectronics.com%2Fimage%2Fcache%2Fcatalog%2FMultimeters%2FAC%20DC%20Multimeter%20Electronic%20Tester%20Digital%20Clamp%20(2)-1024x768_0.jpg&exph=768&expw=1024&q=clamp+on+dc+meter&selectedindex=7&ajaxhist=0&vt=0&eim=1,6

I don't understand why all these experts would say no when clearly they are....Now to figure out which would be adequate.  I'd still have to get under the trailer but could reach with the clamp on meter around a wire....that I could handle.

I'm still under the trailer on crushed rock.  A plastic tarp helps...chew it up rather than me.

Is there something like the electricians use to test continuity in wiring or where the break is in wire?  About the size of a pen and has a flat blade on the end that they sweep along the wire and it beeps or has a lighted end??  For 12v.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/klein-tools-dual-range-non-contact-voltage-tester/1000705444

I sure hope Randy gets down to Florida this Winter so I can poach his brain for some electrical instruction.  Most RV problems revolve around electricity or lack of it and yes I know a lot are about bad grounds and yes Henry told me to find where it doesn't work and trace back from there.

I'd get a Power Probe but don't really know how to use it to its potential.

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Those pokey things can get you in trouble.  A long time ago, I had a heat/ac issue in a car (1975 model).  I crawled under the dash and started poking holes in all the colored wires coming and going to the heater slide switches.  But half of them were vacuum lines...........

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3 hours ago, rickeieio said:

Those pokey things can get you in trouble.  A long time ago, I had a heat/ac issue in a car (1975 model).  I crawled under the dash and started poking holes in all the colored wires coming and going to the heater slide switches.  But half of them were vacuum lines...........

I can appreciate that but it bothers me when you ask people who should clearly be in the know and they give you wrong info.  One of those 12v clamp on meters with a gauge or scale will tell me there is or isn't power and how much.  If it's not close to 3v then there are issues somewhere.

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On ‎7‎/‎18‎/‎2019 at 7:34 PM, Lance A Lott said:

How do you do it, left foot brake, parking brake? I dont have hill assist. The Alison in my school bus never roles back but the Volvo does and I dont think the horse will like it. I dont like to show my ignorance but pride befor a fall and all that.

I asked this before but didn't get an answer.  The question was can the 'Hill hold feature' be programmed into a trans that doesn't currently have it.

Let's see if someone can respond.

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53 minutes ago, rdickinson said:

I can appreciate that but it bothers me when you ask people who should clearly be in the know and they give you wrong info.  

Yeah it is frustrating to get bad advice. I had a camera wiring/compatibility issue between Voyager systems and Rear View Safety systems we were trying to solve. Called up Voyager and talked to their tech people. They said - "No that is incompatible and won't work". After thinking about it we decided that made no sense and did some further testing and configuration....lo and behold, it works....when they said absolutely it would not. If we had listened to them it would have been an expensive experience for the customer.

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14 hours ago, rdickinson said:

My DirecLink was shipped last October and was held up for a week or 2 while a new software upgrade was installed.  So, I don't know how old your system is but it may be able to take an upgrade ...not sure, you'd have to contact Tuscon.

Felice One    Last name pronounced Onay

Manager

Tuson RV Brakes, LLC

Office: 800-968-8766 ext. 219

Email: felice-one@tuson.com

Website: www.tusonrvbrakes.com

 

The 'Hill hold' feature is something that has to be programmed in by using  the remote...push this, push that, now return and push something else.

If you get stumped, call Felice and she will put you in touch with one of her techs and they will walk you thru the process. 

Another feature of the system is it will tell you whether all your brake magnets are working.  Each one is supposed to pull about 3 volts and mine was pulling 12v which for a triple axle was about 6 short.  I think it was Nigel who told me an ordinary compass will swing when power is applied to that particular wheel.  That hasn't been tried yet.

If the compass works it is a lot easier than crawling under the trailer and using my Snap On digital voltmeter with the sharp point to poke the wire and my finger.  The wires are buried behind shocks and  Moreryde system.

Are you sure its 3 volts per wheel?  I thought it was 3 to 4 amps per wheel. You only have 12 ish volts available and I get 12 at each magnet when the controller is fully applied. I can usaly still hear the magnets but I tend to Jack the trailer up and spin the tire or try to if it is working.

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1 hour ago, rdickinson said:

I asked this before but didn't get an answer.  The question was can the 'Hill hold feature' be programmed into a trans that doesn't currently have it.

Let's see if someone can respond.

The tecniton told me no when I asked on Tuesday. Who knows if he is correct. I think there is atleast a switch that would be needed.  I would think if you spent enough  money. 

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Amps or volts per wheel...I can't remember.  This was last December.  I could hook up the truck tomorrow and plug up the Park but can't recall what page or screen to look for.

Maybe someone else can say for sure or correct me.

Maybe it's in the manual.

I'll e-mail The Volvo people in Port Alberni and see what they have to say about Hill hold.  If it's possible, they will want the vin#.

A few years ago there was supposed to be someone who worked at Volvo who  had access to a computer that was able to change settings....not sure what happened, but have not heard anymore about it or him.

You never know.

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Yes it is amps per magnet. Electrics is a foreign language to Roger but he is very in tune with his combination and knows when something is not right. 

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