Securing pvc decorative for ac lines

[GlennWest]

33 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Nice ,clean looking install, Glenn. Pat yourself on the back for working in the heat, and still making it look good. 

Thanks. It was rough in this heat but very satisified with results. I really don't see how people work on these roofs in this heat. Would post pic of roof but got to buy a ladder first

Edited June 24, 2019 by GlennWest

[Matthew]

On 6/22/2019 at 3:21 PM, Chad Heiser said:

If you have a rubber roof and just use dicor or and eternabond tape then you are only bonding your pipe to the rubber roof membrane.  That membrane is in turn glued down to the wood roofing material below it.  You have in essence now made the glue holding down your rubber roof also need to hold down the weight of the piping as you travel down the road.  It was not designed to do this.  You need to use screws to hold the piping down and then dicor or eternabond to cover the screw penetrations.

Chad has a very good point.

[GlennWest]

Just a note for anyone doing this. The cassette unit is superior to the wall units. Wall units blow up and down. Cassette units blow air 360 degrees. 4 louvers. Also the 230v units are more efficient. My 110 unit on unit info chart states 9 amps. The 230v unit states 5 amps. Quite a difference. Although early monitoring I never saw 9 amps with my meter. Regardless they are very superior to Domestic offering. The cassette has a turbo mode also. We used it at first and it really brought down temps fast.

[Randyretired]

Watts are how to measure total power requirements.   Volts x amps = watts.  The figures you quote show the 110 volt system as the most efficient. 

[GlennWest]

Watts are 950 on the 110v. 748 watts on the 230v. 

[Darryl&Rita]

That's not what your earlier post indicates. 

[GlennWest]

I was going by memory on the decals. After reading Randy's post, I agree, it didn't add up. I looked up specs. It been raining here most of the day.

Edited June 25, 2019 by GlennWest

[GlennWest]

That's also average watts. It uses more on heat mode and less on cool mode. 

  

[GlennWest]

Well, hard rain today. Yes, Glenn has a leak. Bummer. Between box and roof. Corner. Thought I got it all covered good. Reckon not. Used Eternabond tape. Seeping not pouring. Butyl tape gasket on top seeping also. So soon as weather breaks, back on roof. 

Edited June 25, 2019 by GlennWest

[GlennWest]

Saw nothing to cause leak. Dicored all edges and heavy on corners. Sealed top with eternabond tape. Will have to cut off now if I need to get in there. Don't see need anytime soon. Heald 400psi nitrogen. 

 

[Jack Mayer]

Nice job, Glenn.

When you get a chance some roof pics would be nice.   How far is the cassette sticking up off the roof.

[GlennWest]

It is 6" to the top. 1/2" plywood top which I intend to change. Need to find a sheetmetal shop to make me a lid that covers top and sides and use weatherstripping for seal. I don't own a metal brake.Will get some more pics but storming today. Have about a 1.5" clearance on top so it could have been a little shorter but should be no problem with Solar panels being this high later. Have not removed rear Dometic yet. Wait till cooler weather. That was mean up there. Also going to remove the skylight also. We don't care for it. Heat sink. Also soft spot where I had leak. Small area. 

Edited June 28, 2019 by GlennWest

[GlennWest]

[GlennWest]

[GlennWest]

[GlennWest]

[GlennWest]

[GlennWest]

Had to run it at an angle due to the dometic ac still on roof. I almost ran drain line to the ground but already had algae in the other drain to shop vac out so made this one short.This cassette does pump the water out so may be non issuse. The brown junk on side of Teton is tape glue where I attempted to hold cover in place. Bad idea. Got ot remove that. Ended up putting screw in sides. Going to relocate that batwing attenna before solar. Move to middle. Haven't used it on years. 

[GlennWest]

Just a note here. We can make it as cold in here now as we desire. DW actually had it down to 68 in here with a heat index outside of 105. Don't know why. But I went outside. lol

[lockmup68]

So you put the cassette in the existing AC hole in the bedroom, right? That’s exactly what I want to do for both ACs. But you did not use the existing ducting. Are you going to spray foam the ducting or just leave it? Any issues with the copper piping? I was thinking whether or not needed flex hoses made. Great job Glenn. 

And how did you run the power? To the TV cabinet above the cubby in bedroom?

Edited July 7, 2019 by lockmup68

[GlennWest]

Have not decided what to do with existing ducts. I considered just putting an insulating material in the vent openings. If you tried to use the existing ducts, most of the unit would be on the roof. And then your interior cover with the sensor would not work. Only way for ducts would be like Spacecraft uses, interior. Our Teton is a Grand Freedom so it is just shy of 40'. We do use the living room ceiling fan to help distribute air. Now one of ours is a wall mount. If you done both ceiling cassettes, it should be a very balanced air flow. Cassettes are superior to wall units.As far as power, I used the existing wiring that was for the dometics.Just tied into it and ran it with the tubing.In the electrical panel just replaced breaker with a 230v. If I did both cassettes I would buy one outside unit. Although 2 12k units is more efficent than the multi unit. See how high mine are to clear running lights. One unit could sit in center and remain low. The only hard part is cutting the hole out. And that might not had been so bad in milder temps. Got sunburned and dehydrated. And I had a cooler of water up there! The wood Teton uses is like high grade plywood. Miltilayered and full 2" thick. You will cut thru that, roof top, rafter. I had very little bracing due to the support existing. You may know this, but all cassettes are 230v. Also Teton around the acs doesn't space rafters the same. Locate the side rafters before yur hole gets full size. You may have to offset it to center. I built a box that goes to inside to ceiling and protudes roof.You could just put wood in there for hangers and built box off top. This would allow you to adjust if you are a little off center. That offset rafter fooled me and mine is offset to one corner of my box. Made hooking up lines difficut. I could not get a torque wrench in there. Just open end wrenches. So I torqued fittings at compressor unit and noted the amount it turned to tighten. Did same up top. Leak free. No issuses with copper. I turned my rear mount camera downward and watched my units on the road. They are very stable. I did put flex on the 110v unit I did a few years back. I did not on this one. I do not believe it is necessary if your mount is solid. If you can spare to loose the storage are, put them in there. I can't. I have my air over hydralics tank in there now and future Chevy Volt battery and 2 inverters. Plus all our stuff. Hense mini splits on rear. It took 50' of line set to go from bedroom to unit. I think yours is longer than mine. I had no spare length. Actually had to lengthen the wiring for the cassette. They have to go to inside of the unit and gas lines up top. That how close the length was. Did I cover your questions?

[lockmup68]

Thanks Glenn. That was very helpful. I’m 40’, so similar. I’m not an electrician, but how did you do 220v? 

[GlennWest]

My electric box has 2 seperate legs of 110v. They are staggered just like a house box. Just buy a 2 pole breaker and install it. That connects both legs together to get 230v. Now a 2 pole breaker is twice the size of a 1 pole. You will be removing two 1 pole and that will allow room for 2 pole breaker. If you don't have room for your project, you can install a subpanel for the 230v. Just bring a wire from each leg in your box to the subpanel. You can feed it off of the factory ac breakers. Mine has a subpanel from the factoy since it came with an inverter so I had room in my box.

Edited July 7, 2019 by GlennWest