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Flying Finn

Truck loses power at acceleration

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Great lesson to be learned here.  Congrats on getting it figured out.  Very, very glad to hear you didn't have to go rooting around in the harness.

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In some of the electronics I work on, wear on vinyl gears meshing together will throw timing off enough to throw a code. We often get software that changes timing tolerances to compensate.

Much easier to keep the product firmware/software up to date than to replace worn components.  Cheaper too.

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8 minutes ago, Parrformance said:

In some of the electronics I work on, wear on vinyl gears meshing together will throw timing off enough to throw a code. We often get software that changes timing tolerances to compensate.

Much easier to keep the product firmware/software up to date than to replace worn components.  Cheaper too.

Please indulge me so I can learn.  In this case no codes were thrown.  If the ECM was out of tolerance, shouldn’t that be programmed in to throw a code?

Edited by SuiteSuccess

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A guy had a “clutch issue” - clutch was not opening to easily engage low gear from neutral. I had to shut down the engine put in gear then start to drive it into bay 12. We had a poll as to what was needing repair. “Clutch I think” said customer. “Ya it has a million miles!” said young Grasshopper apprentice. “The crankshaft is in 2 pieces” said this writer. “Harrumph!” said the people. 

There were no codes. Software nor  a clutch fixed it. An overhaul including a rebuilt crank did.

The yellow engine had hauled 63 tonnes for 4 days like that. 

HD diesels are tough critters.

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On 6/17/2019 at 6:50 PM, Flying Finn said:

he had to wipe out the old software from the ECM and install all the new stuff

Brad, sounds like a Windows issue!   ha ha.

Glad it's fixed.

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Been on the road and at least 3 shops since last week.  Have about 24 hours sitting in lounges.  I was told the software update fixed the problem.  Got back to the  camp ground and everything worked fine......hence my belief everything was well. The next day leave the camp ground, coffee in hand thinking this is going to be great ride to the North Shore for the summer.......wrong!! The accelerator again goes to the floor without response from the engine.  So much for a software update.   I go back to TRX tuck shop. Still no codes.  Trace wires to ECM no resistance.  Put in a new peddle sensor. Assured everything is well.  This time insist on a test drive.  Peddle response fails again.

Decided to spend the night at their facility.  Decide these guy don't know what is going on.  Talk to service manager,  he is gracious enough to waive the fees.  How fortunate for me.  I head to CIT Volvo up I-90.  They run a wire trace on the peddle to the ECM and mysteriously find resistance.  They open the wire harness junction box at the fire wall and you guessed it....corroded due to water leak.

Tech says can replace all the bad female pins and clean up the male pins, reassemble.  Cost $900.00. Truck runs great.  Overnight at a rest stop near Cheteek, WI.  Leave next morning and peddle fails again.  Able to get to my destination on the North Shore. 

At a loss as what to do.  I feel like I wasted 900 bucks.  To far away to return to CIT.  Any ideas would be very much welcomed

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Time to learn harness repair. A phone call to CIT may yield some $$$ back, or other forms of help. Can't hurt to ask. It seems they're getting it narrowed down, though. I'd be looking back into the junction they worked in, looking for anymore corrosion, or suspect looking wires. I'd expect to see signs of electric grease in there, but if not, add some, after a good cleaning/inspection.

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Just to be clear...are we talking about an N14 or an ISX?  Might want to get your hands on a wiring diagram and identify every single ground that comes off that electrical system.  It seems as though every time someone messes with the wiring you have some success.  Biggest mistake is to assume that you only need to clean battery and engine grounds.  Always cringe when someone says they replaced the "bad" pins.  What criteria did they use to define "bad"?

 

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It sounds like you have a short in the harness somewhere.  Every time someone messes around in the area, it corrects itself.  I would trace the wires all the way from end to end.  See if there is more corrosion, or a rub thru somewhere that is grounding a wire out.  If a pin, terminal end, wire crimp fitting has corrosion in the wire at the connection, chances are there is more corrosion further up the wire.

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At this point, it might be best to install a whole new harness, especially if you're finding corrosion at multiple locations.

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