Exile Posted June 3, 2019 Report Share Posted June 3, 2019 There are two thin shims behind my front rims. this truck used to have steel 24.5s and now has aluminum 22.5s. i checked the best i could from the back side, and there doesn’t appear to be any interferences. the track width doesn’t match the inside dual like a drw pickup, and is narrower than the outside dual, so no reason i could see to use these to set the track width have not yet pulled the rim, don’t have a jack strong enough yet. any ideas about these? Quote 98 379 with 12.7 DD LG Dodge w/5.9 CTD Chrome habit I’m trying to kick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve from SoCal Posted June 4, 2019 Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 Were the shims used with the steel wheels, could have been to keep the lug nuts from hitting a shoulder /run out of thread? The other thing, are the isolation discs? Some trucks with aluminum wheels have a separator gasket to minimize corrosion of the aluminum wheel on steel. Steve Quote 2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift 1996/2016 remod Teton Royal Atlanta 1996 Kentucky 48 single drop stacker garage project Pulls like a train, sounds like a plane....faster than a Cheetah sniffin cocaine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parrformance Posted June 4, 2019 Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 A floor jack like a 3 ton will get one wheel off the ground. A bottle jack is cheap and will also work. The lug nuts are very tight. Quote 2006 Volvo VNL 780, " Arvey" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift 2003 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 2010 Forest River Coachman Freedom Express 280RLS Jackalopee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennisvr Posted June 4, 2019 Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 Are you sure there is a spacer? What I see in the picture should be the brake drum. I also noticed it looks like the studs are a little short. I like to see at less a couple of threads showing. Quote "It is better to have more truck than you need than to need more truck than you have" 2001 Volvo 660, Cummins 400 ISX, Eaton 3 Peddle Auto Shift 2014 Fuzion 40' Toyhauler 2015 Smart Car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Kildow Posted June 5, 2019 Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 21 hours ago, dennisvr said: Are you sure there is a spacer? What I see in the picture should be the brake drum. I also noticed it looks like the studs are a little short. I like to see at less a couple of threads showing. Looks like the black part is the spacer. You can see it more in the bottom of the hub to wheel section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exile Posted June 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 My apologies for the poor picture . good questions and points. An isolation disc would be a good idea, but i think the object in contact with the rim is steel. It could have been a spacer to keep the nuts from running out of thread with a steel wheel, and just left on when Al rims were installed. I will check the build sheet for the front axle section to see what it says. it could be the brake drum, but it looks like there are two thin layers. I would expect a brake drum to be a single homogeneous layer with maybe a chamfer. yes, i would also like to see more threads showing, most industrial standards i am familiar with require more than one thread showing. Will need to fix that if i want to put centramatics on i have a three ton floor jack, but did not attempt to lift one wheel, i agree a bottle jack is the best solution, just have been too cheap to pay full price since the size i wanted was on sale and sold out of the local tractor store. i finally have an impact that will loosen the lugnuts, so i will eventually get it off, i thought there might be some special reason for spacers, ( or it is probably the drum) Thank you for the ideas Quote 98 379 with 12.7 DD LG Dodge w/5.9 CTD Chrome habit I’m trying to kick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennisvr Posted June 5, 2019 Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 My bets or still it being the drum. I went down to Harbor freight and bought a 12 ton jack I think it was around $30 and leave it in the truck. One suggestion if you do buy from HF, when you get finished using the jack compress the cylinder all the way back into the jack or the cylinder will rust. As they say "ask me how I know" Quote "It is better to have more truck than you need than to need more truck than you have" 2001 Volvo 660, Cummins 400 ISX, Eaton 3 Peddle Auto Shift 2014 Fuzion 40' Toyhauler 2015 Smart Car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noteven Posted June 5, 2019 Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 (edited) They could be wheel savers designed to isolate the wheel from the hub to slow corrosion. Little plastic gasket shim looking thingies. Edited June 5, 2019 by noteven Quote "Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Kildow Posted June 5, 2019 Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 7 hours ago, dennisvr said: My bets or still it being the drum. I went down to Harbor freight and bought a 12 ton jack I think it was around $30 and leave it in the truck. One suggestion if you do buy from HF, when you get finished using the jack compress the cylinder all the way back into the jack or the cylinder will rust. As they say "ask me how I know" That's not rust, just new metal forming. I have the air jack. And always keep it wiped down with Fluid film. I sure don't need any new metal forming on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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