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SuiteSuccess started a related topic. I sometimes think it's a good idea to piggyback topics for the sake of the next person searching.  Link to the topic included below. 

shorter version; So I got the STOP LOW COOLANT message on the instrument cluster.  I usually park on gravel so I never noticed a puddle or anything. Went from a spot on the road while parked, days later became critically low.  My fault for not popping the hood after cooling off to look.

i assumed a hose had cracked because it seemed to lose water very suddenly.  I looked over the gravel, the hoses, the expansion tank and connections.  I crawled underneath, felt around where I could not see, even looked at our rear sleeper heater repair.  For anyone who wants to know more about the chronic sleeper heater leak for Volvo sleepers, we have many photos and cad screen shots of our disassembly and reassembly fun.  No write up yet but someday.

The level sensor in the reservoir tank looked borderline, and there was residue on the fan shroud resembling a leak.  No greasy moisture on the sensor electrical plug.  It appears the sensor was leaking in the past so I tightened the clamp and moved on.

At the Volvo dealer I bought a few parts, thermostat, short hose, $60 each.  Coolant filter $15 or so,  EXPANSION TANK PRESSURE CAP $35 or so, a couple or other things I forget exactly what.  6 gallons of COOLANT just less than $7 per gallon.  The caps are because you might want the info that follows.

Everywhere I looked including online, Diesel engine coolant was $12 on up.  Like batteries, the dealer had the best price.  You just never know.

The service desk was next.  I described the leak events etc, and immediately the mechanic who happened to overhear said, "Replace the over pressure cap on the pressure tank." AKA reservoir.  He added that when running on the highway, the system may regenerate.  The cap relieves pressure at 15 pounds but if it goes bad, will shoot the coolant out the overflow drain hose.  So you will never see it!

i gave it some time to be sure, and the tank level is right where I left it a month ago.

i came up with what I think is a unique way to refill the cooling system, and I'm not inviting the flame throwers to comment, but I will take constructive advice.  😃      I will have to tell that story later on edit.

http://www.rvnetwork.com/topic/134846-volvo-radiator-drain-hose/?do=findComment&comment=981047

 

Edited by Sculptor

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So I bought the "I can't believe it's $60" radiator drain hose that SuiteSuccess originally posted about.  

I drained the system and was able to fill 2 buckets @ 4 gallons each.  I spent some time looking for the coolant capacity of my truck.  I am not sure but I believe it's 15 gallons.

Rather than perching on a ladder and pulling the buckets up with a rope, to reuse the coolant, I bought a cheap submersible pump on sale for $40.  I wrapped a vacuum cleaner filter around it, and connected the radiator drain hose to the outflow.  Of course I left the tank cap off.

Backing up a bit, I saw some posts about the very cool and expensive vacuum tester and filling tool online for $130ish.  There were others like it that were cheaper also.  I was not thrilled with the cost and plan to never need it again.  (Yeah right)  the pump options were expensive also, except maybe the drill powered pump.  The submersible seemed relatively cheap.

The 8 gallons went into the system very quickly, and filled from the bottom up, to minimize the chance of trapping air.  I then poured the missing 4 gallons in from the top.

I don't know for sure how much or how little air was trapped in the system when filling from the bottom.  I let the truck idle a good long while to open the thermostat, fill the coolant filter, and circulate any air to the top.  There seemed no difference in the level afterward.

I hope this is helpful to anyone else, and to me also from more knowledgable folks who might know why this was a poorly done procedure.   Respectfully,

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Well I was wrong. I thought it was fixed after hours of leak free driving on a hot day.  It’s not. 

HELP PLEASE 🙂

What I thought were fuel lines across the steel frame directly between tanks, appear to be leaking coolant.  

Can someone please clue me about this system?  Does this keep the fuel at a constant temperature?

If there is a kit or part numbers please post!  I don’t know what to search for.  Plus we are wrenching on a new leveling valve this morning so I will have to get searching later. 

Thanks in advance.

About my goofy sump pump solution above, are you guys just being polite?  🤣 No comments yet? 

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I can't help much from here. It's on you to determine if lines are fuel or coolant. I will say that fuel tanks are seldom heated, as fuel is often used as a coolant sink for electronics. Sleepers have coolant lines, often rusty steel with rubber where flex is needed. 

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Hi folks, It took this long to get my latest info out to you.  What I found out from the parts guy, after an in depth talk:  This truck has a heater system they never see in North Carolina.  This truck is from ND.  Heads up Larry!  (AV8R)

The coolant must circulate into the tanks via a heat exchanger gadget.  I'm not sure if its factory original or not.  There are two crossover lines that run on a piece of angle/channel between the tanks.  The steel frame and tubes are prone to corrosion.

Part number 8085004.  There might be an assembly number but he didn't say.

I have not searched online yet the weather is too nice and I have an ET hitch to install today.  To be continued.

6QgonW8l.jpg

BEFORE (metal tubes $$$ from dealer)

YKXJ4ivl.jpg

AFTER  (rubber heater hose covered with cheap cord organizer tube)

USFrbOfl.jpg

Edited by Sculptor
add pics

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10 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

If you have a Davco filter, make sure it is not coolant heated, it sounds like yours might be.

Hi Dave,    P/M sent.    Al

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Not sure if you found the leak or not but on my 630 there is a drain valve on the side of the block tucked up kinda behind the turbo (at least on my 12 liter Volvo engine). I had an unexplainable leak and it turned out to be that valve AND it only leaked at about 1400 RPM. It has a threaded outlet and the tech reached WAAAY up from the bottom and screwed a pipe plug into the valve and it has not leaked since. Just another place to loook.

Brad

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Kevin,

I'm guessing the line you colored green is the culprit?  If so, the line may only be bad in the area where it's along the brace/support angle.  In that case, you might consider cutting out the rusted section and replace it with high quality hose and good clamps.  Don't go to Auto-Zone.

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Decision time. Do you ever plan to be in ND weather conditions? I'm not talking a little snow going through a mountain pass, but bone-chilling deep cold. The factory lines lasted from '13 to now. Do you want to be underneath again in a comparable time frame re-replacing the lines? Follow them forward, and delete the lines at the junction block looking thing. Leave the lines in place, for the next guy to figure out, or remove them and add blanking covers where the heat probes go into the tanks.

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1 hour ago, rickeieio said:

Kevin,

I'm guessing the line you colored green is the culprit?  If so, the line may only be bad in the area where it's along the brace/support angle.  In that case, you might consider cutting out the rusted section and replace it with high quality hose and good clamps.  Don't go to Auto-Zone.

Yes there is 1 pressure and 1 return so 2 of number 27.  Exactly what I did except the guy sold me 4 reducers not 4 1-to-1.  Grrr now I have to waste time taking them back to get the right ones.  NAPA btw. 

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1 hour ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Decision time. Do you ever plan to be in ND weather conditions? I'm not talking a little snow going through a mountain pass, but bone-chilling deep cold. The factory lines lasted from '13 to now. Do you want to be underneath again in a comparable time frame re-replacing the lines? Follow them forward, and delete the lines at the junction block looking thing. Leave the lines in place, for the next guy to figure out, or remove them and add blanking covers where the heat probes go into the tanks.

Great idea Darryl, had not thought of just cutting them out altogether.  We travel north occasionally but try to limit our winter visits to Amazon delivery only, most years.  🙂

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2 hours ago, Brad & Jacolyn said:

Not sure if you found the leak or not but on my 630 there is a drain valve on the side of the block tucked up kinda behind the turbo (at least on my 12 liter Volvo engine). I had an unexplainable leak and it turned out to be that valve AND it only leaked at about 1400 RPM. It has a threaded outlet and the tech reached WAAAY up from the bottom and screwed a pipe plug into the valve and it has not leaked since. Just another place to loook.

Brad

Thanks Brad. I took Darryl’s advice and put cardboard under the engine area. It stayed clean. But there is a large suspiciously dead looking patch of grass under the right tank but inside more under the frame.  When I saw the frame was wet and identified coolant not fuel, I thought it was under the sleeper heater repair from 2 years ago.  All this time I thought those tubes were some sort of fuel crossover. 

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On 6/16/2019 at 10:35 AM, rickeieio said:

Kevin,

I'm guessing the line you colored green is the culprit?  If so, the line may only be bad in the area where it's along the brace/support angle.  In that case, you might consider cutting out the rusted section and replace it with high quality hose and good clamps.  Don't go to Auto-Zone.

Thanks Rick, pretty much exactly what I did.  NAPA Auto Parts though.  Took awhile to get around to the pics but added them above with the diagram.

I considered cutting and blocking them per Darryl's good advice but this seemed easier.

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On 6/16/2019 at 7:44 AM, Sculptor said:

Hi folks, It took this long to get my latest info out to you.  What I found out from the parts guy, after an in depth talk:  This truck has a heater system they never see in North Carolina.  This truck is from ND.  Heads up Larry!  (AV8R)

The coolant must circulate into the tanks via a heat exchanger gadget.  I'm not sure if its factory original or not.  There are two crossover lines that run on a piece of angle/channel between the tanks.  The steel frame and tubes are prone to corrosion.

Part number 8085004.  There might be an assembly number but he didn't say.

I have not searched online yet the weather is too nice and I have an ET hitch to install today.  To be continued.

6QgonW8l.jpg

BEFORE (metal tubes $$$ from dealer)

YKXJ4ivl.jpg

AFTER  (rubber heater hose covered with cheap cord organizer tube)

USFrbOfl.jpg

Did you have to drain the entire coolant out of the truck to change this part?

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3 hours ago, Jimmy Love said:

Did you have to drain the entire coolant out of the truck to change this part?

Nope, I drained just enough to soak my hair and sleeves.  Then I decided to save the rest in the truck system and clamped the hoses on each side. 😉

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51 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

You could change the lines with very little coolant loss by clamping off the rubber line on each side of the work area.

Right you are Rick.  It was last summer but I’m pretty sure that’s what I did.  I got tired of lounging around under a stream of coolant, it was disturbing my calm appearance.  So I clamped the rubber parts above the crappy metal with whatever I could find.

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