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How to truly read and use my solar charge controller without being a scientist or mathematician please!


Rayne

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Hi, I read and read and read everything I can about solar systems.  But no where do I see how to read and use my own charge controller effectively!  Please, I just need some simple info in a format I can save to laminate and post near my controller until this becomes second nature if that's possible?  

I have a 40 watt MPPT charge controller, 640 watts of solar panels on my RV roof (flexible ones) and I have a 2000 watt pure sine wave Inverter, battery temp sensor, and remote inverter monitor/controller.  I also have two 100 amh 12v AGM size 31 batteries.  So, for example, in my set up, what is the amp or watts reading on my controller that I need to watch when I am running things to be sure that I am not letting my batteries get too low?  ie, I thought 50% meant 6 volts of a 12 volt battery.  See what I mean?  I realize that if I add additional batteries this how too guide will change as I will have more solar storage correct?  I cannot be the only one that does not understand this stuff and needs this help.  Please?????  

Thank you in advance, I am new at all of this sort of.  I do not have a partner that is better at this stuff than I am anymore either.  So please keep the lectures to a minimum and don't question the size system I bought pretty please.  I needed solar and I needed it now with a faster recharging rate.  Hopefully, that's what I have.  The battery configuration confuses the heck out of me too.  So for now, I stay with what I have until somewhere I find something that will finally help me understand the various configurations.  for example, how the heck can two 6 volt batteries give me more AMH hours than two 12v batteries?  Makes no sense to me.  So, please don't even try at this point on that issue either.  I am overwhelmed already.  

Thank you for your understanding and help.  Happy camping.

Rayne

Rayne

2 Biewers, Miki and Timmy

2005 F-550 Lariat

2008Okanagan Truck Camper 116ULT 

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Hi Rayne-

With two, 100 amp-hour batteries you've got a total of 200 amp-hours of capacity, but the 50% recommendation would be to only use 100 amp-hours to prolong battery life. Here is what 100 amp-hours of available capacity means: You can pull 100 amps for one hour, 25 amps for 4 hours, 10 amps for 10 hours, etc. Think of it as a milkshake. The harder you suck on the straw the faster the milkshake is gone!! Realistically you will draw different amounts of power at different times, so it is difficult to go by amps or time without keeping close track of what is happening minute-by-minute.

Voltage can be somewhat useful for determining state-of-charge (how much energy remains in your batteries) For AGM type batteries 12.3 volts at rest is considered an indication that the batteries are down to about half charge, but the at rest part is the catch. You will almost always be drawing at least some power from your batteries, and perhaps charging with solar as well, so they are not "at rest" unless you make a specific effort to disconnect all loads and let them sit for a while. Which is hardly convenient while you are trying to live.

And knowing amp draw only tells you how much power you are pulling from the batteries at that moment (how hard you are sucking on the straw...), so is not an indicator of overall remaining capacity either. 

The best way to track battery state-of-charge is with a battery monitor. It keeps track of how many amps you are pulling at any given time, and subtracts it from the capacity. If wired correctly, it will also keep track of how much your solar is putting back in, and knowing those two things you have total knowledge of where you are in terms of remaining battery capacity. 

You mention a 2000W pure sine wave inverter with a monitor/controller. Many of those devices will do exactly what I described as a battery monitor, so you may already have what you need. If you let us know what brand of inverter you have, along with model number/designation of the monitor/controller perhaps we can give more specific advice. 

Edited by mptjelgin

Mark & Teri

2021 Grand Designs Imagine 2500RL, 2019 Ford F-350

Mark & Teri's Travels

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Wow, that was really helpful Mark & Teri, not sure which one of you wrote this.  Anyhow, I purchased the Go power IC2000 Inverter/charger with a remote monitor, built in transfer switch, power sharing (?), and I did not get it through GP dealer, got it through Amazon but not at full price either.  I do not know the brand name for sure of the Charge Controller that my RV place has ordered, just that it is an MPPT and a 40 watt or is it amps?  LOL.  I wish my brain would hold onto those and keep them straight somehow.  I have tried everything I have learned through the years to make it stick, but not good so far.  Anyhow, I think the brand is one that starts with a vowel, but I will have to ask my RV place tomorrow.  Sorry I can't tell you more than this.  

Rayne

Rayne

2 Biewers, Miki and Timmy

2005 F-550 Lariat

2008Okanagan Truck Camper 116ULT 

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I am no solar expert, but just to give you a feel for what battery voltages should be, take a look at these battery voltage charts which show you what you can expect from your battery readings. 

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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Hi Rayne,

The primary item you need to monitor the state of charge of your batteries is an amp-hour battery monitor that measures all of the current flowing in or out of the batteries.  It keeps a running total of how many amp-hours you've taken out of the batteries, counting down as you use power, counting up as the solar panels push power back into them.

Comparing this to the Amp-hour capacity of the batteries will tell you how much capacity remains in the batteries.

Your charge controller only knows how much voltage and current it's pushing out, it doesn't know the size of the battery bank, it doesn't know if all of the power it's putting out is going into the batteries or is being used elsewhere.  As such, it can't tell you the battery's state of charge, all it knows is to shut down when the battery voltage rises to a level that says the batteries are full.

Amps are instantaneous measurements.  Amp-hours are Amps X (time), an indication of how much power you've used.  For example, using 5 amps for 30 minutes is 2.5 amp-hours, using 5 amps for 1 hour is 5 amp-hours, etc.

The same holds true when charging the batteries.  Push in 5 amps from the solar panels for one hour and the batteries will gain 5 amp-hours of charge.

An amp-hour meter counts up and down as you charge and then use power from the batteries.  You'll know at a glance what state your batteries are in, for example if you've taken 50 a-h out of the batteries the meter will read -50.

When the solar panels are charging the batteries, the amp-hour meter will climb towards zero, which indicates the batteries are full.  

Tell me what kinds of charge controller, inverter and monitor panel you have and I'll take a look at them and see if they'll give you the necessary information or if you need to purchase a separate amp-hour meter.

Here's a link to the manual for the Trace/Xantrex Battery Status Monitor.  Unfortunately, it's discontinued but the manual provides a good, easy to understand description of how an amp-hour meter works.

http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Discontinued-Products/3507TraceMeterRevB.pdf

Edited by Lou Schneider
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Hi Rayne-

I've looked at the on-line documentation available for your GoPower IC2000 Inverter/Charger  and the remote display/control unit. It looks like a good quality inverter/charger with many features, but it does not appear to have the capability of measuring amp-hours in/out like a battery monitor. 

As far as settings for the inverter/charger, it appears that the factory default settings will work perfectly with your AGM batteries. 

It is unlikely that your 40 amp MPPT solar controller will have the battery monitoring capability, but once you find out the brand name we can see. 

Mark

Mark & Teri

2021 Grand Designs Imagine 2500RL, 2019 Ford F-350

Mark & Teri's Travels

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Rayne,

Lot of excellent info and detail provided in the replies so far.  Be sure to spend some time working to digest the details and come back with questions for what is not clear to you.

In addition here are two links to some good detailed info on RV 12V electrical systems, batteries, battery charging and solar.  As you read through these websites, try to relate the information to what you have in your RV.  Reading each part of the info in the links as you look at what is in your RV will really help you understand your systems.   This is a many hour project over some number of days as you have time, not just an hour or two of time. 

Copy and paste info from the replies above and from the links with your comments about what is not clear to you and many of us will work to assist you.   

http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm

http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volta.htm

Al & Sharon
2006 Winnebago Journey 36G 
2020 Chevy Colorado Toad
San Antonio, TX

http://downtheroadaroundthebend.blogspot.com/

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Thanks everyone, I feel like I am drowning though.  The link from Kirk is extremely overwhelming to me, and I haven't opened the latest ones yet from Al & Sharon.  I'm sort of getting "some" more of it though.  I would definitely like to get a battery monitoring device if one isn't incorporated into my charge controller already.  Praying that it is.  Unfortunately, I still do not have my system in front of me in my rig to see what it can bring in on a given day, and what I use up on a basic day versus a heavy use day type scenario.  Darn mice!  

I sent an email to the RV place that is doing my solar system today, but found out I used the wrong email address for them.  So I will check tomorrow.  I know the Xantrex that Al mentions is a name I know the solar guy was talking about liking and having used in the past.  Hoping it isn't discontinued like the system monitor Al also mentions.  

Al, when you mention copy and paste all the good info I am getting from all of you, do you mean into a saveable format in my computer so I can digest it offline, or do you mean to copy and paste it all each time I reply to one of you?  

Oh, and another question if I may, not solar exactly, but it will be affected by my solar installation.  

I have a fancy satellite antenna on the top of my rig. Winnegard something or other.  I cannot find anywhere in the instructions for it where I would need to have any type of subscription to a TV service to use it, and inside my rig is one of the digital antenna that is flat and affixes to an exterior window or wall.  That is all I have used so far and it has at least given me something to watch wherever I have been.  So, my question is, do I still need this other fancy satellite antenna, is it that much better or even still used if it isn't collecting digital signals since nearly all stations have gone to being digital?  I ask, because my plan is to have them remove the rooftop satellite setup so that we can put another solar panel on the roof that will need that roof space. I realize the RV place will have to do a super job of making sure that my roof is sealed up where they have removed the satellite antenna so it doesn't leak.  I would really like to be able to take the wind up thing off of the ceiling of the inside of my rig too.   Thoughts? 

Thanks so much.  NOT: I am not getting notifications in my email when any of your reply, so I have to keep checking here each evening once my grandchildren are all asleep to see.  I have all of the notifications set to alert me when I get posts to any of the topics I have started or that I am watching, but I still get nothing!  I am checking my spam folder too.  Suggestions on this issue?  

Rayne

Rayne

2 Biewers, Miki and Timmy

2005 F-550 Lariat

2008Okanagan Truck Camper 116ULT 

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The most important part of any system is a battery monitor system as noted by Lou.  I use a Bogart Engineering Pentametric monitor and find it very informative.  They also have a Trimetric battery monitor that does many of the same things the Pentametric does.  Both to a great job of informing us of battery status.

Lenp

USN Retired
2002 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom

2012 F150 4x4

2018 Lincoln MKX

2019 HD Ultra Limited

 

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I don't speak much of this language either so haven't read most of the answers but I can tell you I had a Trimetric battery monitor that worked for me. It had capabilities I never used but it would give me enough information to know whether or not I needed to worry about my batteries getting too low.

One of the things I did learn was to charge my phone and laptop early in the day then unplug them so the solar panels had all afternoon to recharge my house batteries.

And having house batteries you don't have to water was wonderful!

Linda Sand

Blog: http://sandcastle.sandsys.org/

Former Rigs: Liesure Travel van, Winnebago View 24H, Winnebago Journey 34Y, Sportsmobile Sprinter conversion van

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8 hours ago, Rayne said:

Thanks everyone, I feel like I am drowning though.  The link from Kirk is extremely overwhelming to me, and I haven't opened the latest ones yet from Al & Sharon.  I'm sort of getting "some" more of it though.  I would definitely like to get a battery monitoring device if one isn't incorporated into my charge controller already.  Praying that it is.  Unfortunately, I still do not have my system in front of me in my rig to see what it can bring in on a given day, and what I use up on a basic day versus a heavy use day type scenario.  Darn mice!  

I sent an email to the RV place that is doing my solar system today, but found out I used the wrong email address for them.  So I will check tomorrow.  I know the Xantrex that Al mentions is a name I know the solar guy was talking about liking and having used in the past.  Hoping it isn't discontinued like the system monitor Al also mentions.  

Al, when you mention copy and paste all the good info I am getting from all of you, do you mean into a saveable format in my computer so I can digest it offline, or do you mean to copy and paste it all each time I reply to one of you?  

Reply:  When you are reading the info in the links and the replies and you come across a paragraph or statement you don't understand, copy and paste the info, along with a description of what is not clear to you.  Additionally it is a good idea to copy and paste into a document the info provided in the replies in this topic.  This way you have the copy easily at hand and don't have to go online to find it.  

Oh, and another question if I may, not solar exactly, but it will be affected by my solar installation.  

I have a fancy satellite antenna on the top of my rig. Winnegard something or other.  I cannot find anywhere in the instructions for it where I would need to have any type of subscription to a TV service to use it, and inside my rig is one of the digital antenna that is flat and affixes to an exterior window or wall.  That is all I have used so far and it has at least given me something to watch wherever I have been.  So, my question is, do I still need this other fancy satellite antenna, is it that much better or even still used if it isn't collecting digital signals since nearly all stations have gone to being digital?  I ask, because my plan is to have them remove the rooftop satellite setup so that we can put another solar panel on the roof that will need that roof space. I realize the RV place will have to do a super job of making sure that my roof is sealed up where they have removed the satellite antenna so it doesn't leak.  I would really like to be able to take the wind up thing off of the ceiling of the inside of my rig too.   Thoughts? 

Reply:  The Winegard satellite antenna on the roof.  Assuming this is a large round or oval dish like this: https://www.amazon.com/Winegard-SK-1000-TRAVLER-Automatic-Multi-Satellite/dp/B002N5RZOY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=F1T143GNQ1RB&keywords=trav'ler+dish&qid=1556709059&s=gateway&sprefix=trav'ler%2Caps%2C338&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1  It could be Dish Network or Direct TV, both provide excellent satellite TV reception with some 200-300 TV channels available from a subscription from either provider. If you want excellent TV service then I would keep the satellite dish.

I think the "wind up thing off the ceiling" is the over the air (OTA) TV antenna.  Either that antenna or the one you hang in the window should give you pretty good TV reception from the free OTA local TV broadcast stations.  

Thanks so much.  NOT: I am not getting notifications in my email when any of your reply, so I have to keep checking here each evening once my grandchildren are all asleep to see.  I have all of the notifications set to alert me when I get posts to any of the topics I have started or that I am watching, but I still get nothing!  I am checking my spam folder too.  Suggestions on this issue?  

Rayne

 

Al & Sharon
2006 Winnebago Journey 36G 
2020 Chevy Colorado Toad
San Antonio, TX

http://downtheroadaroundthebend.blogspot.com/

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On 4/29/2019 at 3:47 PM, Rayne said:

Hi, I read and read and read everything I can about solar systems.  But no where do I see how to read and use my own charge controller effectively!  Please, I just need some simple info in a format I can save to laminate and post near my controller until this becomes second nature if that's possible?  

I have a 40 watt MPPT charge controller, 640 watts of solar panels on my RV roof (flexible ones) and I have a 2000 watt pure sine wave Inverter, battery temp sensor, and remote inverter monitor/controller.  I also have two 100 amh 12v AGM size 31 batteries.  So, for example, in my set up, what is the amp or watts reading on my controller that I need to watch when I am running things to be sure that I am not letting my batteries get too low?  ie, I thought 50% meant 6 volts of a 12 volt battery.  See what I mean?  I realize that if I add additional batteries this how too guide will change as I will have more solar storage correct?  I cannot be the only one that does not understand this stuff and needs this help.  Please?????  

Thank you in advance, I am new at all of this sort of.  I do not have a partner that is better at this stuff than I am anymore either.  So please keep the lectures to a minimum and don't question the size system I bought pretty please.  I needed solar and I needed it now with a faster recharging rate.  Hopefully, that's what I have.  The battery configuration confuses the heck out of me too.  So for now, I stay with what I have until somewhere I find something that will finally help me understand the various configurations.  for example, how the heck can two 6 volt batteries give me more AMH hours than two 12v batteries?  Makes no sense to me.  So, please don't even try at this point on that issue either.  I am overwhelmed already.  

Thank you for your understanding and help.  Happy camping.

Rayne

You seem to have or will have (it is not clear if you are in the process of installing this system, or if it is already installed) a very robust solar system with far more solar than you need to keep the two batteries you have installed fully charged.  

You don't state what your planned power usage will be when not hooked to shore power so it is hard to assess how adequate your system will be for you.  In the two links I gave earlier there is quite a bit of info about how much battery power is required to operate various household devices through the inverter. Things like the microwave, TV, coffee maker, toaster, hair dryer, etc.  

Your inverter is nicely sized to operate at microwave, toaster, coffee maker, each, one at a time.  However your two batteries are sized too small to operate those devices.   To operate those devices you should have 4 golf cart batteries installed.  Additionally with your 640 watts of solar you could support 6 golf cart batteries if you have the room for them AND your RV can take the 400 pounds the 6 batteries will weigh.  

If you are just going to operate the RV, lights, furnace, laptops, smart phones with your system then the two batteries would be the least amount of battery you should have.  4 batteries would be much better though.

You have a 40 amp MPPT solar controller which is properly sized for your 640 watts of solar panels, but would be undersized if you added more solar.  Keep that in mind if you plan on adding more solar.  

Al & Sharon
2006 Winnebago Journey 36G 
2020 Chevy Colorado Toad
San Antonio, TX

http://downtheroadaroundthebend.blogspot.com/

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Hi Al, I am in the process still of absorbing all of this.  So far, I have added a Battery monitor to be compatible with my Xantrex Solar Charge controller, and I am now seriously looking at adding batteries.  I'm thinking of two of the 6 volt in addition to my current 12 v ones, but I am thinking that it may not be a good combo, right?  Reason to keep my two current ones is that I was thinking of adding the two more 6 volt ones in the bed of the truck directly below the camper battery compartment in the section between the camper wall and my truck bed wall.  I would of course need a quick disconnect there for when I may someday be able to take my rig off my truck to camp (this is a rear stair issue being worked on by someone for me).  

The info you sent to me via the links was very helpful.  Thank you.  But it still makes me nuts on the batteries and their various Amh hours versus their sizes etc.  Makes NO sense to me how they can vary so much.  even amongst the 6 volt batteries, or should I say especially!  LOL.  So, give me a few more days of absorbing.  

Yawn, okay, heading off to sleep now.  

Rayne

Rayne

2 Biewers, Miki and Timmy

2005 F-550 Lariat

2008Okanagan Truck Camper 116ULT 

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17 hours ago, Rayne said:

Hi Al, I am in the process still of absorbing all of this.  So far, I have added a Battery monitor to be compatible with my Xantrex Solar Charge controller, and I am now seriously looking at adding batteries.  I'm thinking of two of the 6 volt in addition to my current 12 v ones, but I am thinking that it may not be a good combo, right?  Reason to keep my two current ones is that I was thinking of adding the two more 6 volt ones in the bed of the truck directly below the camper battery compartment in the section between the camper wall and my truck bed wall.  I would of course need a quick disconnect there for when I may someday be able to take my rig off my truck to camp (this is a rear stair issue being worked on by someone for me).  

The info you sent to me via the links was very helpful.  Thank you.  But it still makes me nuts on the batteries and their various Amh hours versus their sizes etc.  Makes NO sense to me how they can vary so much.  even amongst the 6 volt batteries, or should I say especially!  LOL.  So, give me a few more days of absorbing.  

Yawn, okay, heading off to sleep now.  

Rayne

Sorry,  I have been away from my computer since yesterday.

Mixing a pair of group 31 batteries, each with a rated capacity of about 100AH with what would be a third battery (the two 6V Golf Cart batteries, wired in series make 1 large 12V battery) with an amp hour (AH) capacity of about 200-220AH is not a good idea.  The basic problem is the group 31 batteries will fill before the golf cart batteries do, also the discharge parameters will be different.  Basically you won't get the full additional capacity.  

If you want to add more batteries in the bed of the P/U I would go with additional Group 31 batteries, the same make and age of the ones you already have.  If you do you want these additional batteries to be as close to the existing batteries as possible.  No more than 12"-18" of cable between the additional batteries and the existing.  Ideally you want to put all the batteries in the same space, i.e. 1/4" to 1/2" apart and all the cables connecting the batteries basically the same length.  

Al & Sharon
2006 Winnebago Journey 36G 
2020 Chevy Colorado Toad
San Antonio, TX

http://downtheroadaroundthebend.blogspot.com/

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17 hours ago, Rayne said:

Hi Al, I am in the process still of absorbing all of this.  So far, I have added a Battery monitor to be compatible with my Xantrex Solar Charge controller,...................

Which battery monitor did you add?  

You initial post said you just wanted to know how to read you charge controller to monitor the state of your batteries.  Depending on what additional battery monitor you just installed, you now have the best device for monitoring your batteries, not matter if you are charging from the solar or shore power.  Also this battery monitor will show you how many AH's you are using from your batteries, no matter if it is 120V devices or just the lights, forced air propane furnace (from the fan blowing) or anything else.  It will show you the total of number of AH's used as well as the percentage of charge in the batteries.  

Al & Sharon
2006 Winnebago Journey 36G 
2020 Chevy Colorado Toad
San Antonio, TX

http://downtheroadaroundthebend.blogspot.com/

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Rayne,

Some of the information given in the replies go into more than just how to read a monitor.

To really give you good advice on your system, if you wish more advice, will be to give us more information.

--  What is your planned use of this system, i.e. what you plan on powering when not connected to shore power or generator?  How long do you plan on using each device? 

--  Are you going to dry camp/boondock for a  week or more before going back to shore power, or are you just going out for 2-5 days and back to shore power?  Or do you plan on running a generator in addition to solar? 

-- Which battery monitor did you just install?

--  What battery brand and type do you have?  Are they marine batteries or are they true deep cycle batteries?  There are lots of group 31 batteries which are not true deep cycle batteries and you can buy them most anywhere.  To find and buy true deep cycle group 31 batteries or most any 12V true deep cycle battery you have to shop carefully and specifically demand deep cycle.  

This quote is from the links I provided earlier:

Quote

Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% repeatedly, and have much thicker plates. The major difference between a true deep cycle battery and others is that the plates are solid Lead plates - not sponge. Unfortunately, it is often  impossible to tell what kind of battery you are really buying in some of the discount stores or places that specialize in automotive batteries.

Many Marine batteries are actually "hybrid", and fall between the starting  and deep-cycle batteries, while a few are true deep cycle. In the hybrid, the plates may be composed of Lead sponge, but it is coarser and  heavier than that used in starting batteries. It is often hard to tell what you are getting in a "marine" battery, but most are a hybrid. "Hybrid" types should not be discharged more than 50%.

 

Edited by Al F

Al & Sharon
2006 Winnebago Journey 36G 
2020 Chevy Colorado Toad
San Antonio, TX

http://downtheroadaroundthebend.blogspot.com/

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Hi Al, I am in the process still of absorbing all of this.  So far, I have added a Battery monitor to be compatible with my Xantrex Solar Charge controller, and I am now seriously looking at adding batteries.  I'm thinking of two of the 6 volt in addition to my current 12 v ones, but I am thinking that it may not be a good combo, right?  Reason to keep my two current ones is that I was thinking of adding the two more 6 volt ones in the bed of the truck directly below the camper battery compartment in the section between the camper wall and my truck bed wall.  I would of course need a quick disconnect there for when I may someday be able to take my rig off my truck to camp (this is a rear stair issue being worked on by someone for me).  

The info you sent to me via the links was very helpful.  Thank you.  But it still makes me nuts on the batteries and their various Amh hours versus their sizes etc.  Makes NO sense to me how they can vary so much.  even amongst the 6 volt batteries, or should I say especially!  LOL.  So, give me a few more days of absorbing.  

Yawn, okay, heading off to sleep now.  

Rayne

Rayne

2 Biewers, Miki and Timmy

2005 F-550 Lariat

2008Okanagan Truck Camper 116ULT 

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Hi Al, so sorry, I have been dealing with a family situation so have had very little time or mental energy to think about this.  I am confused on how to "quote" what in this forum as well.  I would much rather do it by phone personally.  Anyhow,  hmmm, somehow I just quoted what I wanted to quote.  see my answers below.  And thank you.

Rayne

On 5/3/2019 at 5:05 PM, Al F said:

To really give you good advice on your system, if you wish more advice, will be to give us more information.

--  What is your planned use of this system, i.e. what you plan on powering when not connected to shore power or generator?  How long do you plan on using each device? 

--  Are you going to dry camp/boondock for a  week or more before going back to shore power, or are you just going out for 2-5 days and back to shore power?  Or do you plan on running a generator in addition to solar? 

-- Which battery monitor did you just install?

--  What battery brand and type do you have?  Are they marine batteries or are they true deep cycle batteries?  There are lots of group 31 batteries which are not true deep cycle batteries and you can buy them most anywhere.  To find and buy true deep cycle group 31 batteries or most any 12V true deep cycle battery you have to shop carefully and specifically demand deep cycle.  

My planned use is to be able to stay at free or low cost Federal campgrounds, boondocking locations etc. and NOT be dependent upon having shore power except maybe 1 time a week and only if necessary.   I live in my RV technically, so this should be factored as full-time.  I am just stuck at my daughters due to health problems back in January only recently resolved, and plan to be back on the road again by the end of May!  Oh, and I do not know what brand of Battery monitor my technician ordered for me, but my controller is Xantrex as I suspected.  40 amp.  My batteries are 2 type 31 AGMs and they are Universal Power Group batteries with only 100ah hours each.  I only had them installed last October, but they may have been allowed to discharge too much 3 or 4 times at minimum as I had no idea that my truck had not been trickle charging my rig correctly while I was enroute for 3-4 hours at a time and I was running my refrig on propane with igniter and my furnace fan was running as needed too.  I know, I get it now.  So, I am having them LOAD tested by RV place before they install solar system so we can order me new ones of a more recommended configuration asap for them to connect to my system.  

I plan to power my refrig fan in the back where my coils are (12v), the Fantastic fan in my bunk overhead compartment, it is 12v and only a few amps and has a thermostat, occasional bathroom fan when I shower in the camper.  To power my laptop, charge my cell phone, Flat screen TV, water heater and refrig ignitor for their propane function, water pump as needed for dishes and showering as well as toilet flushing.  My furnace occasionally, but If I HAVE to run my generator to protect my batteries, I will.  Oh, and I am having a new 12v awning added to my rig.  There are the usual safety monitors, 2 slideouts, stove fan when needed.  Hmmm, Oh, and occasionally in cooler weather, my sewing machine which is very low amps and voltage, and LED portable lights plugged into my outlets when necessary, or interior LED lights in the evenings and during the day.  I have two little dogs I need to keep cool in hotter climates too.  Hope this is everything you asked me about.  I have to get to dr. appt now so I will do my best to check back later.  I thank you again so much for your help and advice on this Al.

Sincerely,

Rayne

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JdIj1GwtxXdPccxmhefzy0ZWlAZzk5qb/view?usp=sharing

Rayne

2 Biewers, Miki and Timmy

2005 F-550 Lariat

2008Okanagan Truck Camper 116ULT 

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I understand the family concerns take lots of time and energy and makes it difficult to think about RV technical details.  Take your time. 

Excellent info in your reply.  That is what I was looking for.

Basically you don't seem to be planning on using any high current devices, like microwave, coffee pot through your 2000 watt inverter.

Your two group 31 batteries have a total capacity of 200AH of which about 100AH is usable for decent battery life.  The 640watts of solar panels will do an excellent job of keeping the batteries charged.  With your fairly light power consumption the solar should keep your batteries pretty well charged even with some haze in the sky or light cloud cover.  Even in light rain the solar panels will provide a few amps. Every little bit helps.  That is one of the very nice things about solar.  They always provide some power when there is some light.  If you park overnight in a Walmart parking lot and park directly under the lights you will see a couple of amps coming in.  Overnight (8-10 hours) that gives you 15-20AH back in the batteries.  That is about 15%-20% of your usable battery capacity. 

A flat panel TV only pulls a couple of amps of 12V power from the batteries through the inverter.  So unless you have a satellite TV receiver your TV use will use very little power.  

One down side of such a large inverter (2000 watt inverter) is that just being turned on, but not powering any 120V devices it will pull 2-3 amps all the time.  So be sure to use the remote panel to keep the inverter turned off unless you need to power something like your sewing machine.  Note, leaving the inverter on all the time, pulling 2-3amps it will use 48 to 72 amp hours in 24 hours.  That is 50% to 70% of your total usable battery capacity.  

Once you get the battery monitor installed and everything set up you will be able to see all these numbers (I gave above) in your battery monitor. Just turn things on and off while watching the amps on the battery monitor.  

Be sure to talk with your solar installer about the charger you will be using in your RV.  That charger is probably the "converter" that was installed by the manufacturer of the camper.  If it is not a 3 stage charger, you will need a better converter or just a separate charger.   My recommendation would be to use an inverter with a built in 3 stage charger and just disconnect the converter.  Without a 3 stage charger, it will take a really long time, 4-8 hours, to get much of a charge back into your batteries and 24-36 hours to get a 100% charge while running a generator or shore power. 

One more thing about solar panels.  They get dirty from dust and light rain. You need to be able to get on the roof, or have a ladder to prop up against the side to reach the panels to clean them off every so often.  Every couple of weeks or every month depending on how quickly the get dirty. 

I hope all this make sense to you.  

Keep in mind once you get your full system set up and are able to play with it, and relate what you see to what you have read, things will make much more sense.  It is hard to comprehend things you know nothing about just by reading about it.  

Edited by Al F

Al & Sharon
2006 Winnebago Journey 36G 
2020 Chevy Colorado Toad
San Antonio, TX

http://downtheroadaroundthebend.blogspot.com/

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I  know from your original post that the following is not what you were asking for, but I feel I would be remiss if I didn't include it. 

One more link to some great info about RV battery/solar/electrical while dry camping/boondocking.  Pretty much explained in plain english (for the most part).  Also some excellent examples of what to watch out for that makes for poor charging from your system.

It is well worth printing out and talking with your installer and have them show you how they installed your system to prevent the problems detailed. 

Also have them take you up to see the roof and panels and show you their work.  How they fastened down the panels, how they sealed the hole and sealant to seal the hole, etc, etc. They should be proud to show you their work. 

https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/the-rv-battery-charging-puzzle-2/

Al & Sharon
2006 Winnebago Journey 36G 
2020 Chevy Colorado Toad
San Antonio, TX

http://downtheroadaroundthebend.blogspot.com/

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On 5/3/2019 at 5:05 PM, Al F said:

To really give you good advice on your system, if you wish more advice, will be to give us more information.

--  What is your planned use of this system, i.e. what you plan on powering when not connected to shore power or generator?  How long do you plan on using each device? 

--  Are you going to dry camp/boondock for a  week or more before going back to shore power, or are you just going out for 2-5 days and back to shore power?  Or do you plan on running a generator in addition to solar? 

-- Which battery monitor did you just install?

--  What battery brand and type do you have?  Are they marine batteries or are they true deep cycle batteries?  There are lots of group 31 batteries which are not true deep cycle batteries and you can buy them most anywhere.  To find and buy true deep cycle group 31 batteries or most any 12V true deep cycle battery you have to shop carefully and specifically demand deep cycle.  

HI again Al,  First, thank you for the compliment on my rig.  I LOVE it!  electrical issues from the mouse or squirrel all fixed as of today!  YAY. 

Also, regarding my system, since I take so long on my replies I know it has been hard for you to keep up with my thread.  My Inverter is an Inverter/ charger it is the Go Power IC2000 with the built in automatic transfer switch. 

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1430/0262/files/Phocos_Go_Power_2000W_Pure_Sine_Wave_Inverter-Charger_Specification_Sheet.pdf?3184031003158149263

It eliminates the need for the Converter that came in my rig is my understanding.  It came last week and it just seems HUGE compared to the size of my converter.  I don't know if it will fit where my converter is currently installed either.  or how we would get it in there.  I am a little concerned that my rig may look "rigged" when they are done with this, but I am hoping not.  Good suggestions on having them "show me their work on the roof" etc. too.  Thank you.  The solar panel are the glue on flexible panels in order to accomodate getting me as much panels as possible due to the 2 skylights and two roof vents on my roof.  I am having them remove my satellite from the room as it is right where a panel needs to go and I do not use it at all anyway.  I stream most of my TV watching, or I use the little flat panel antenna that is on the back wall in my overhang closet.   

Also, in my PLANNED USE I forgot about my VITAMIX blender/ juicer 1500 watts used for about 1.5 minutes at a time, 4 times when I use it about every week.  I should use it even more than I do, but I know I will need to turn off other things to run it.  My Instant Pot ideally, up to 20 minutes at a time.  Mostly in the colder weather though and then I will most likely need shore power every few days, and my occasional use of my Air fryer-it's teeny tiny, and only 1000 watts, and my 1000 watt microwave oven for 2 minutes a day on warm days or I will use the propane stove to heat my morning/ evening coffee water.  again, in cooler weather that would be used more often for the same duration.  So, now what do you say about my set-up?  

FROM MY PREVIOUS POST: My planned use is to be able to stay at free or low cost Federal campgrounds, boondocking locations etc. and NOT be dependent upon having shore power except maybe 1 time a week and only if necessary.   I live in my RV technically, so this should be factored as full-time.  I am just stuck at my daughters due to health problems back in January only recently resolved, and plan to be back on the road again by the end of May!  Oh, and I do not know what brand of Battery monitor my technician ordered for me, but my controller is Xantrex as I suspected.  40 amp.  My batteries are 2 type 31 AGMs and they are Universal Power Group batteries with only 100ah hours each.  I only had them installed last October, but they may have been allowed to discharge too much 3 or 4 times at minimum as I had no idea that my truck had not been trickle charging my rig correctly while I was enroute for 3-4 hours at a time and I was running my refrig on propane with igniter and my furnace fan was running as needed too.  I know, I get it now.  So, I am having them LOAD tested by RV place before they install solar system so we can order me new ones of a more recommended configuration asap for them to connect to my system.  

I plan to power my refrig fan in the back where my coils are (12v), the Fantastic fan in my bunk overhead compartment, it is 12v and only a few amps and has a thermostat, occasional bathroom fan when I shower in the camper.  To power my laptop, charge my cell phone, Flat screen TV, water heater and refrig ignitor for their propane function, water pump as needed for dishes and showering as well as toilet flushing.  My furnace occasionally, but If I HAVE to run my generator to protect my batteries, I will.  Oh, and I am having a new 12v awning added to my rig.  There are the usual safety monitors, 2 slideouts, stove fan when needed.  Hmmm, Oh, and occasionally in cooler weather, my sewing machine which is very low amps and voltage, and LED portable lights plugged into my outlets when necessary, or interior LED lights in the evenings and during the day.  I have two little dogs I need to keep cool in hotter climates too.  Hope this is everything you asked me about.  I have to get to dr. appt now so I will do my best to check back later.  I thank you again so much for your help and advice on this Al.

Sincerely,

Rayne

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JdIj1GwtxXdPccxmhefzy0ZWlAZzk5qb/view?usp=sharing

Edited by Rayne

Rayne

2 Biewers, Miki and Timmy

2005 F-550 Lariat

2008Okanagan Truck Camper 116ULT 

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  • 2 months later...
15 hours ago, frater jason said:

I wrote an intro to reading charge controller data to tell how the system is working.  Might help or might make things worse.  😕

Excellent write up.  Maybe overly technical for some.  Your write up matches my experience of extensive use of solar over the last 7 years. 

Al & Sharon
2006 Winnebago Journey 36G 
2020 Chevy Colorado Toad
San Antonio, TX

http://downtheroadaroundthebend.blogspot.com/

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