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Big5er

Who built the storage box on the back of their truck?

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I saw the post where someone built a storage box on the end of the bed, under the trailer. I think I even commented on the thread but i can't find it now. I want more pictures! Who posted it??

My truck is heading back to Herrin soon to get my generator box built and the genset mounted. I think I have it all engineered in my head but a few more ideas never hurt. 

Edited by Big5er

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Chet, that's it! 

I'm going to mount generator back there in a box. It's too big to mount behind the fairings so its gonna go back there. I would have preferred one smaller but I latched on to a commercial grade 7.5kw Onan QD for a price that was too good to pass up. Do you know how many hours I can run a genset on 275 gallons of diesel? :)

I'll send Brad a message and ask for more pics of his build. Thanks again. 

Quickthrotl, thanks but I'm wanting to mount one to the rear of the truck, between it and the trailer.

Edited by Big5er

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6 hours ago, Big5er said:

Yeah, I've seen Roger's truck. I dont have that kinda room....or his $$$$ obviously LOL

Yes do to Phil's great personality, we spent a long weekend together this January, I was on my way to Florida and stopped in on Phil.
And you do have my $$$$, you are just saving it for traveling.

 

Edited by Hewhoknowslittle

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Roger,

How low are the boxes aired up ?

 

Phil,

My rear body is actually saddle bags on the frame.    Your truck has a body, are you going to cantilever off the frame?      The hitch on my truck is not far back 8~10" behind the axle,  trailer clearance is close.     That is with a 90" wide straight body, a gen box alone would be about 48~56" wide?      

ktpNhy7l.jpg

 

Steve

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9 hours ago, Hewhoknowslittle said:

And you do have my $$$$, you are just saving it for traveling.

Sweet!! I thought I was broken but now that I have your $$$$ I'm rolling in it. Thanks Roger 😁

5 hours ago, Steve from SoCal said:

Phil,

My rear body is actually saddle bags on the frame.    Your truck has a body, are you going to cantilever off the frame?      The hitch on my truck is not far back 8~10" behind the axle,  trailer clearance is close.     That is with a 90" wide straight body, a gen box alone would be about 48~56" wide?      

Steve

Steve, check out the picture in the post that Chet referenced for me. I'm basically going to add a pair of receiver hitches and mount a stinger on the rear of the truck using them at the bottom and pins at the top to control bounce. My hitch is much further to the rear than yours so I'm going to use that wasted space under the front of the 5er.

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I am interested in your install.  I bought an Onan 6.5 diesel and want to mount it back there.  It is 30 long x 25 tall x 24 wide.  Are you going to shock mount it in any way or will it be a rigid mount to the receivers? I noted you will use two receivers.  I was thinking the one installed for tow-behind trailers and outside support arms sitting on the cross member.

I have the base plate ready and contemplating the front and back needs for air-flow while running/weather while in transit.

It probably will not happen until after the ECR.

Chet

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Chet, the 7.5 is vented, cooled and exhausted from the bottom and designed to be installed in a compartment so I dont need to worry about airflow.

I had planned on a rigid mount but if Herrin has any suggestions, I am open to them. I have one receiver hitch already but thought two would have less play and allow for more stability. Again, If Larry has a better idea I'm open to suggestions. 

Edited by Big5er

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With the weight of a diesel generator, dual mounts are almost a necessity. Especially with the balance point being a moving target. I initially built one for a single point, but it flopped around enough I quickly tired of the noise and motion. It was originally mounted on a LDT, but still. 

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Darryl, that is why I was planning for pins/bolts/some other attachment at the top, to help stop that movement. In your opinion will that help/be enough? Needless to say I will have to move the rear ID lamps and the camera/trailer light connections.

The picture shows where I plan to add receiver hitches, the pins and the rough size/position of the box.i-F3zCRvN.jpg

Another angle of the rear of my truck
IMGP1137-L.jpg

 

Edited by Big5er

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Two points of mounts is enough, by themselves. Only when a single point mount is used, is something needed to tame the flop. People use wedges, clips, and all manner of things to calm the motion, but two mounts are all that's needed. The weight of the load will control fore-aft movement and the two mounts with control the side to side motion. 

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I figured the weight would control the slop in the receivers but since these uprights are there, I thought pinning it couldn't hurt. That generator weighs in around 600 lbs, plus the box. 

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Phil,

 

If you triangulate the outer tray to the points shown, that will stiffen up the whole thing.     I am not a fan of cantilevered loads on the very back of a truck body.     It can get pretty bouncy. 

 

My 2 cents,

Steve  

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Phil, while you're at it, have Larry add another step plate across the rear (or side) of the new box.  You will like it for getting on top of the bed.

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1 hour ago, HERO Maker said:

Phil, while you're at it, have Larry add another step plate across the rear (or side) of the new box.  You will like it for getting on top of the bed.

Oooh! I like that idea. As far as the triangulation points, never hurts to have too much support. 

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I've seen yours and I am jealous. I wish I had that much room. That is a sweet mount. This is plan B...well maybe C.

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Phil,

Sent you a message describing my build.  Will send pics tomorrow when it's light out so you can see what I was describing.  Don't know how much help it will be because I wouldn't be comfortable putting more than 200lbs in it (box weighs just under 100).

I did find out things didn't bounce around in there as much as I thought.  I'm dual in the rear and have lowered my tire pressure to 80psi per the tire manufacturers load vs pressure chart.  Might be helping smooth the ride out. 

Brad

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Phil, I think you are on the right track. You MUST use dual mounts or you will regret it. There would be quite a lot of movement without dual mounting pints. Also, there can be a lot of sag if not supported right, but Larry should be able to handle that. It should work out well assuming you get it stable enough. Just make sure there is a flex line in the fuel line or it will crack on you - but I assume you know that. 

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I am planning on some quick disconnects on the fuel lines and a plug on the 12v from the truck batteries so I CAN remove it if need be. I don't plan to take it off, but who knows? I may use bolts instead of pins for a tighter connection. I'll left Larry figure that out. He's never let me down.

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Few thoughts:

1. even though it is heavy and unlikely, bolts or locking pins to keep the handsy people at bay

2. Need to relocate the license plate so it is not blocked? or is it acceptable in this case? 

3. Are you relocating the light connections? I'm mostly thinking rubbing of trailer wire on the genset.

4. Are you putting the genset in a box? Or just a cradle. Just thinking you don't want someone coming by and starting it up if it is wide open on the back.

I do like the location of my genset, but will be a bear once I fix the rear of the bed (raise the bed up to be level and raise the hitch to the correct ride height (current hitch is at 41" vs 48")). Easy to change the genset filters and oil from the ground, but if you need to pull panels off to troubleshoot electrical, too close to airbags (and airbags actually rub a bit when deflated I discovered, I have a small hole in one of the airbags), to get the panel off. I will probably have to raise the genet up to the top of the bed at the sametime.

I'm also wondering if the exhaust exiting underneath is going straight to the air filter of the genset and maybe choking it a bit? I'm thinking of putting a 90 on the muffler and routing it further to the outside of the body. Right now just dumps down underneath and right in front of one of the brake cans. 

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