Padraic Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 My 98 Volvo with M11 won't start today. I drove it last week and it was OK with a few clicks on the starter solenoid before the starter kick in. The few "clicks before starting" had been happening mostly at cold engine start in my long trip from Virginia to Yuma, much less once the engine had been hot. So I suspect the starter brushing is worn down like my old Buick Electra '66 in 1974. I replace the brushing for $1 in the starter then. Today, no click and no voltage drop (13.2 volts). So what may be broken, could be the ignition switch along the path to the starter solenoid. Since no voltage drop and no sound, it is an open circuit. Does anyone have experience on this issue? I assumed and seems to see the starter is at the driver side under the steering rod but towards the engine. Reading the old forum post, it has three bolts in attaching to the engine. Any ideas to troubleshoot this starting issue. Thanks. Volvo VNL610 M11+ 98 10 speed Mountain Aire 40' 5th 2002 Outback Power, 1200 watts Sanyo panels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exile Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 I usually jump the contacts at the solenoid to see if that is the problem., because i am lazy. Not very safe better to see if you get voltage at the solenoid coil when you turn the key, with truck out of gear and appendages in a safe location. If i get voltage there, then i check to see if contacts of solenoid close and voltage gets out. If they close, then it’s the starter or surrounding wiring. 98 379 with 12.7 DD LG Dodge w/5.9 CTD Chrome habit I’m trying to kick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beemergary Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 If its like my Cat. engine check that the ground cables are tight at starter and battery. Jumping the contacts like Exile says eliminates the solenoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randyretired Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 I had a similar problem on my ISX that turned out to be a bad cable from the battery. Internal corrosion. We used a jumper cable from the battery to the starter. The resistance in the jumper cable only allowed the starter to spin slowly but it indicated what the problem was. Randy 2001 Volvo VNL 42 Cummins ISX Autoshift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padraic Posted March 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 Thanks. I will check the connections from battery cable to the solenoid as suggested. Volvo VNL610 M11+ 98 10 speed Mountain Aire 40' 5th 2002 Outback Power, 1200 watts Sanyo panels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sculptor Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 I have heard many times that "thumping" on the starter might work in place of any real expertise. A few healthy smacks with a hammer might loosen up a corroded starter and/or solenoid? If it works you know it's a mechanical problem not electrical connection. I hope it helps. Kevin and June 2013 Volvo VNL 730 D13 Eco-Torque @ 425 Ratio 2.47 2014 DRV 36TKSB3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 8 hours ago, Padraic said: Thanks. I will check the connections from battery cable to the solenoid as suggested. Yes, check the voltage at BOTH ends of the cables while the switch is in the "start" position. Cables deteriorate, as stated above. I have had to replace cables on older farm tractors when they appeared fine, and tested fine while no load. Cutting them open revealed internal corrosion. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad & Jacolyn Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 Don't have that engine but when my Volvo wouldnot crank it was a bad connection at the little wires on the battery. After that thump the starter a couple of times just to make you feel better. That has also worked for me but it was on a Volkswagon. Brad and Jacolyn Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier 2009 Smart "Joy" 2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo" 2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218" Fulltiming and loving it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 Ok I did not read every post before typing. Sorta got ahead of Exile. I think if you could test the voltage on the main battery cable at the batteries while attempting to start it. Then if that is good try testing voltage at starter end of cable on the seliniod while attempting to start it. Then try the voltage on the starter side of the Soleniod . Then there is a relay for the start system somewhere on the firewall. I do not know if it is inside or outside the cab. Mine has on occasion not transferred power to start since we bought this truck in 07. But so far that part has not failed completely yet. Anyone have a idea where that relay is. just thinking,. Vern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 Are the battery terminals clean. Not just looking good. But take them of and fiscal clean them. just a thought,. Vern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 47 minutes ago, Wrknrvr said: 47 minutes ago, Wrknrvr said: fiscal clean Isn't that money laundering? KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parrformance Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 LOL 2006 Volvo VNL 780, " Arvey" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift 2003 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 2010 Forest River Coachman Freedom Express 280RLS Jackalopee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydrvr Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 3 hours ago, Wrknrvr said: Ok I did not read every post before typing. Sorta got ahead of Exile. I think if you could test the voltage on the main battery cable at the batteries while attempting to start it. Then if that is good try testing voltage at starter end of cable on the seliniod while attempting to start it. Then try the voltage on the starter side of the Soleniod . Then there is a relay for the start system somewhere on the firewall. I do not know if it is inside or outside the cab. Mine has on occasion not transferred power to start since we bought this truck in 07. But so far that part has not failed completely yet. Anyone have a idea where that relay is. just thinking,. Vern My relay is on the front of the firewall, under the hood, near the steering column. Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beemergary Posted March 25, 2019 Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 Forgot to say you need a good connection at solenoid. Its an electro magnet relay. Haven't thought to look at mine but years past could take them apart and file connections if they weren't burnt beyond filing. Jumping solenoid bypasses the relay part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padraic Posted March 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 Thank you, guys. Just got it started. You are right. A bad connection/corrosion inside the big red cable close to the battery terminal. I wiggled it and got good voltage at the cab. It was only 5.5V at the dash CB dc terminal, but I got 12.6V at the battery below. I was thinking as you guy suggested, it must be a bad connection of the ground black cable. Use a jumper cable connect the battery negative terminal to the frame of the truck. The voltage in the cab was still 5.5V. Next to test the Red one. As soon as I touch it, the cab voltage jump back to 12.6V. I knew the truck can start. Now replacing the red or the black 3 odd cables will be expensive and a lot of work to un-tied it from the frame and re-tire a new one. Is there a way to spice in a little section? That may be a temp fix since the cable may be corroded all the way inside. How much is one of these cables sold for a VNL610 98? Volvo VNL610 M11+ 98 10 speed Mountain Aire 40' 5th 2002 Outback Power, 1200 watts Sanyo panels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad & Jacolyn Posted March 25, 2019 Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 Don't bother trying to splice that is just asking for another failure point. Bite the bullet and replace the cable. The skin will all grow back long before the cable needs another replace. Brad and Jacolyn Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier 2009 Smart "Joy" 2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo" 2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218" Fulltiming and loving it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted March 25, 2019 Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 Depending on the cable, it may make sense to have one made. I usually make my own, but I'm old and pretty much retired, so my labor cost is low.😮 I almost never buy factory cables, key word being "almost." Brad types faster...... Agreed, don't splice. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob86ZZ4 Posted March 25, 2019 Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 I wouldn't splice in a section. I think you want to replace each cable. I wouldn't want to buy them from the dealer either. Make your own. Buy a $48 hydraulic crimper at Harbor Freight. Make your own cables up. You'll be happier. '03 United Specialties truck conversion, Freightliner FL112, Cat C12, 10 sp Autoshift, 295" w/b, 26' living quarters. St. Paul, MN www.bobwinsor.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob86ZZ4 Posted March 25, 2019 Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 And you both type faster than me. Dang. '03 United Specialties truck conversion, Freightliner FL112, Cat C12, 10 sp Autoshift, 295" w/b, 26' living quarters. St. Paul, MN www.bobwinsor.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padraic Posted March 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 I can make the cable since you remind me. I build a solar 3000-watt inverter system for my RV, where you get the battery terminal? Are they sale at Auto or truck store. Volvo VNL610 M11+ 98 10 speed Mountain Aire 40' 5th 2002 Outback Power, 1200 watts Sanyo panels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sculptor Posted March 25, 2019 Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 You guys just gave me another reason to buy that crimper. Kevin and June 2013 Volvo VNL 730 D13 Eco-Torque @ 425 Ratio 2.47 2014 DRV 36TKSB3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randyretired Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 I had an independent shop make new cables for mine. They had all the necessary parts and tools. The cables are great, properly crimped and sealed and the cost was reasonable. Oh and my red cable was the bad one. Randy 2001 Volvo VNL 42 Cummins ISX Autoshift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padraic Posted March 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 Never mind, I should know where the lug was sold. Volvo VNL610 M11+ 98 10 speed Mountain Aire 40' 5th 2002 Outback Power, 1200 watts Sanyo panels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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