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My G7200 finally quite working and I need to replace it. Is this still the best machine for the price. I use it to maintain my 4 truck batteries. The D7200 is up to 99.00 on Amazon which is more than I remember paying before. Thank for any and all help.

JB

John and Michal Bagley 1999 Volvo 610 the 'Millennium Falcon', 400 hp ISM, Autoshift Gen 2, single axel w/steel bed, Pressure Pro, VMSPC, Trailer Saver Air Hitch, 3 bags, 38 foot Royals International, and our 3 dogs.

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The Battery Minder is a better overall charger/maintainer. the Noco is a good unit but not the "best".

http://www.batteryminders.com/batteryminder-model-128cec1-12v-2-4-8-amp-charger-maintainer-desulfator/

 

Can be found cheaper by resellers. I have 2 of these at work and they are awesome. Eventually will buy one for the truck, right now I just use a 1.25a Battery Tender.

2016 Road Warrior 420

2001 Volvo VNL 660

Alaska Based.

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15 minutes ago, Imurphy907 said:

The Battery Minder is a better overall charger/maintainer. the Noco is a good unit but not the "best".

http://www.batteryminders.com/batteryminder-model-128cec1-12v-2-4-8-amp-charger-maintainer-desulfator/

 

Can be found cheaper by resellers. I have 2 of these at work and they are awesome. Eventually will buy one for the truck, right now I just use a 1.25a Battery Tender.

X2

Bob&Kay
2012 VNL730 I Shift D13 2.47 ratio
2018 Mobile Suites 40 kssb4

 

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Get a Progressive Dynamics PD9245CV.  This 45 amp charger is made for an RV converter but works well as a charger and battery maintainer.  It also works well as a primary voltage source if your alternator goes out while traveling if you have a generator.  I once drove 300 miles with a dead alternator.  The 45 amp would not put out enough to run my lights full-time so if you want to do that, buy a bigger PD.  The PD is a "4-stage converter".  Read about it here: https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/charge-wizard/
 

My current 4 truck batteries are 11+ years old and still check good.   The truck is plugged in 24/7 when not on the road.

 

Chet & Deb
'01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart
'19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel
2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed
Retired CWO4, USN and federal service
Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist

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I will be installing A converter out of an old camper. That way if I do want to charge them up or if I lose my alternator I can plug it in.

I put a kill switch in mine. Hooked to the ground cable.  If I park it for more than a week I shut it off. That way I don't need to maintain them.

JPZcBMQl.jpg

Farmer, Trucker, Equipment operator, Mechanic

Quando omni flunkus moritati-When all else fails, play dead
I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess.

 

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May I ask what amperage your kill switch is designed to handle? 

 Perhaps you could share if you have had any detrimental affects with the truck CPU units being unplugged for long periods of time?

2006 Volvo VNL 780, " Arvey"  Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

2003 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon

2010 Forest River Coachman Freedom Express 280RLS

Jackalopee

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Its fine on a Freightliner because they can handle it.  Everything grounds to chassis then to battery so it'll find its way if it needs to.  On those that ground via harnesses you gotta make sure your ground harness (the alt-cab-engine-starter-battery) is perfect and sized correctly if you switch the ground.  Long ago I fried (like melted into a puddle of goo) both door modules, a sleeper clock, and an Autoshift beeper in one bad click.  It sucked.  A couple on the + side is safer for the others unless you really check it out.

C-H disconnects are 175A or 300A, depending on which you buy.  ECU's in a 06 will be fine being disconnected forever.  Running a truck off a converter is the more risky part.  Make sure it is good stable clean power, has a couple of batteries between truck draw and converter for 'filtering', and that the converter inserts into the correct ground loop (aka if converter charges to house batteries but plan to run the truck on its original charge/start then be sure to ground it right).  Trucks are made to shut off an APU at key-on (TMC standard) and aren't really designed & tested to run off a external power so they might not even be right as OEM...

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My 2012 Volvo has a factory battery disconnect, but it doesn’t actually disconnect the loads that will drain the battery.

I installed a Schumacher battery maintainer, and keep it plugged in in the off season. The batteries need to be full charged before I plug the maintainer in, or it will fault off due to overload.

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On 3/7/2019 at 12:09 PM, Imurphy907 said:

The Battery Minder is a better overall charger/maintainer. the Noco is a good unit but not the "best".

http://www.batteryminders.com/batteryminder-model-128cec1-12v-2-4-8-amp-charger-maintainer-desulfator/

 

Can be found cheaper by resellers. I have 2 of these at work and they are awesome. Eventually will buy one for the truck, right now I just use a 1.25a Battery Tender.

X3

Bill and Joan and 3 Collie pups

2001 Volvo VNL 770 "The Doghouse" Singled short, "ET" hItch VED12 465HP Gen 1 Autoshift 3.58 ratio  2005 Mobile Suite 38RL3  2011 Smart Passion loaded piggybacK

Weigh-It Portable RV Scales http://www.weighitrv.com/

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I have an inexpensive Schumacher battery charger that charges until the batteries are full than drops to a maintenance trickle charge, it is not plug and play but is working well enough for now.  I have mounted it to the battery box, I just plug it in where we park the truck and turn it on.  

2006 Volvo VNL 780, " Arvey"  Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

2003 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon

2010 Forest River Coachman Freedom Express 280RLS

Jackalopee

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19 hours ago, Parrformance said:

May I ask what amperage your kill switch is designed to handle? 

 Perhaps you could share if you have had any detrimental affects with the truck CPU units being unplugged for long periods of time?

I will have to check the amps on that. I still have the box from it somewhere. I got it form Napa. It is the largest one they carry. I consulted with my mechanic. He said there will be no problems. He installs them on lots of farmers trucks that sit shut off for 6 months out of the year. When you turn it back on you just have to wait a minute for everything to power up.

Farmer, Trucker, Equipment operator, Mechanic

Quando omni flunkus moritati-When all else fails, play dead
I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess.

 

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On 3/7/2019 at 12:09 PM, Imurphy907 said:

The Battery Minder is a better overall charger/maintainer. the Noco is a good unit but not the "best".

http://www.batteryminders.com/batteryminder-model-128cec1-12v-2-4-8-amp-charger-maintainer-desulfator/

 

Can be found cheaper by resellers. I have 2 of these at work and they are awesome. Eventually will buy one for the truck, right now I just use a 1.25a Battery Tender.

Why is this one technically better than the a Noco?

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49 minutes ago, bigredhdt said:

Why is this one technically better than the a Noco?

It's not, just personal preference. I use the Noco line of chargers myself and find them to be top notch performers, with premium build quality and total reliability. Jay

 

 
 
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/11/2019 at 10:17 PM, RickS said:

I use CTEK chargers....no problems they have temp.compensation.

which one would you use for a 4 battery truck set up?

Thank for everybody's help.

JB

John and Michal Bagley 1999 Volvo 610 the 'Millennium Falcon', 400 hp ISM, Autoshift Gen 2, single axel w/steel bed, Pressure Pro, VMSPC, Trailer Saver Air Hitch, 3 bags, 38 foot Royals International, and our 3 dogs.

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