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Ray USN

15A shore power for storage

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I'm storing my 2017 Newmar Ventana (50A) at a location that only has 15A service. What position should I leave the coach internal power connect switch and the inverter? Also can I keep the refrigerator (residential) on and still charge the batteries? Thanks for your help  Ray USN

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SURE as long as you keep everything under the 15 amp service.  Nice to have some type of device that shows the amp draw for your rig, and for 30 and 50 it is nice I think to have a way to monitor the amps to each leg of 120 volt service. good luck you seem like all is well.

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I like to clean my fridge and shut it off and leave the door open. I use a battery maintainer and leave the RV unplugged when in storage. Most inverters are not very smart and I don't trust them for storage.

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We leave our 40' CC Allure plugged into 15A while in storage. We keep the salesman switch on. I leave our Residential Samsung RF18 on. So far after 6-7 years, never a problem. 

I do leave our MS2812 Inverter/Charger on. We do have heavy shading, but get about 90 mins of pretty good sun on our 1250W of solar too. 

I do have a device that will send me a text if power goes out from Shore Power. So that I can check to see what's going on. (The coach is visible from our home, but we keep it at a rental house next to us.) 

Best of luck to you,

Smitty

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I wouldn't leave the refrigerator on but only because we like ours open to air when in storage. The power should be just fine and enough to keep everything charged. 

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10 hours ago, Ray USN said:

What position should I leave the coach internal power connect switch and the inverter? Also can I keep the refrigerator (residential) on and still charge the batteries?

Ray, good questions, here's my take:

One major concern for long term RV storage is keeping the batteries charged. Unless you had a huge high Amp Hour battery bank which was deeply discharged and subject to the capacity and initial current draw of a charger that might potentially trip a 15 amp circuit breaker, a 15 amp 120 Volt circuit should suffice given the correct plug and cord adapters and any extensions and any other loads on that branch circuit???? Given the same caveats, there stands a chance a fridge could also be powered at the same time BUT THATS SUBJECT TO THE FRIDGE TYPE (Compressor or LP/Electric ????) AND CURRENT DRAW of BOTH the fridge and charger. If there's no more then around 12 amps of continuous current (RV and anything else) a 15 amp 120 Volt branch circuit should suffice. A large compressor fridge requires a high initial current surge !!!

SETTINGS: If not automatic, If you have a stand alone Inverter, it should be OFF while on shore power. However a combination Inverter/Charger needs to be on of course to charge the batteries. Obviously if not automatic when plugged in you would be on Shore Power NOT Genset or Inverter. I have no idea what type of transfer switches and what you power from an Inverter so I cant answer everything from here.

NOTES:

    If left plugged in to keep batteries charged, I would want a "Smart" automatic 3 or 4 stage charger (or "Smart" automatic Inverter/Charger), NOT any old style humming buzzing more like constant voltage Converter/Charger.

    Other then a "Smart" automatic charger and perhaps the fridge, I would have alllllllllll other circuits turned OFF, unless there are LP Gas or CO2 or smoke/fire safety detectors that should be kept energized.  

    I never considered a good reason to leave a fridge running, instead I cleaned and dried it and left the door open. If for whatever reason you want to leave one on, and again subject to its type and current draw, a 15amp branch circuit might well suffice to keep the batteries charged as well as power the fridge?????????????? No way to know from here absent the specs.

   I would use a short as possible at least 12 even better 10 Gauge cord in the event the 50 amp RV cord didn't reach to the 15 amp receptacle.

  If I had my "druthers" Id want to be plugged into my own 15 amp branch circuit NOT one that feeds all other sorts of household loads. 

  While one option (if fridge isn't on) is to leave the RV unplugged and use a battery maintainer, remember many cheap ones are small and only intended for a small auto battery NOT a huge RV battery bank.

 BOTTOM LINE For ONLY battery maintenance (maybe even fridge???) a 15 amp branch circuit will likely work fine given adequate adapters and correct cords and subject to other loads on the circuit...........

  John T  Live from the Florida Flywheelers in Fort Meade Florida 

 

 

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In my storage, the 15a plugs are shared amongst a whole bunch of other RVs.  So the question is...how much are we all using?  The owner says he doesn't want people leaving a bunch of things on because it's a limited service.  He specifically asked me whether I would be leaving ONLY the charger on and nothing else.

Imagine the mess coming back to a tripped breaker and the fridge closed up.  No, I'd clean it out.  (We had this happen on our boat, the breaker was accidentally turned off by a dock worker.  Ugh, the smell.)

 

 

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I have a Xantrex RS2000 inverter/charger; either function may be turn on or off without affecting the other, just as long as it's plugged into shore power. I do not leave the inverter turned on when the MH is not is use.

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11 hours ago, Carlos said:

The owner says he doesn't want people leaving a bunch of things on because it's a limited service

I understand his situation. A 15 Amp Thermal Magnetic circuit breaker could indeed trip if the continuous current hovers in the 12/13+ amp range for an extended period and if there were say 4 RV's connected that's only like 3+ amps each and a big battery bank under charge (subject to size and state of charge) and especially if a fridge were running is pushing the limits.  

NOTE you often see an only 15 Amp NEMA 5-15R Receptacle yet the branch circuit serving it is rated for 20 amps.

 Keep safe yall

John T

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19 hours ago, Kirk W said:

I wouldn't leave the refrigerator on but only because we like ours open to air when in storage. The power should be just fine and enough to keep everything charged. 

Thanks Kirk.

I noticed your patrol pin. I was a MT back in the 70's and worked for SSPO my whole career as the Guidance Engineering/Design section head.

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12 hours ago, oldjohnt said:

Ray, good questions, here's my take:

One major concern for long term RV storage is keeping the batteries charged. Unless you had a huge high Amp Hour battery bank which was deeply discharged and subject to the capacity and initial current draw of a charger that might potentially trip a 15 amp circuit breaker, a 15 amp 120 Volt circuit should suffice given the correct plug and cord adapters and any extensions and any other loads on that branch circuit???? Given the same caveats, there stands a chance a fridge could also be powered at the same time BUT THATS SUBJECT TO THE FRIDGE TYPE (Compressor or LP/Electric ????) AND CURRENT DRAW of BOTH the fridge and charger. If there's no more then around 12 amps of continuous current (RV and anything else) a 15 amp 120 Volt branch circuit should suffice. A large compressor fridge requires a high initial current surge !!!

SETTINGS: If not automatic, If you have a stand alone Inverter, it should be OFF while on shore power. However a combination Inverter/Charger needs to be on of course to charge the batteries. Obviously if not automatic when plugged in you would be on Shore Power NOT Genset or Inverter. I have no idea what type of transfer switches and what you power from an Inverter so I cant answer everything from here.

NOTES:

    If left plugged in to keep batteries charged, I would want a "Smart" automatic 3 or 4 stage charger (or "Smart" automatic Inverter/Charger), NOT any old style humming buzzing more like constant voltage Converter/Charger.

    Other then a "Smart" automatic charger and perhaps the fridge, I would have alllllllllll other circuits turned OFF, unless there are LP Gas or CO2 or smoke/fire safety detectors that should be kept energized.  

    I never considered a good reason to leave a fridge running, instead I cleaned and dried it and left the door open. If for whatever reason you want to leave one on, and again subject to its type and current draw, a 15amp branch circuit might well suffice to keep the batteries charged as well as power the fridge?????????????? No way to know from here absent the specs.

   I would use a short as possible at least 12 even better 10 Gauge cord in the event the 50 amp RV cord didn't reach to the 15 amp receptacle.

  If I had my "druthers" Id want to be plugged into my own 15 amp branch circuit NOT one that feeds all other sorts of household loads. 

  While one option (if fridge isn't on) is to leave the RV unplugged and use a battery maintainer, remember many cheap ones are small and only intended for a small auto battery NOT a huge RV battery bank.

 BOTTOM LINE For ONLY battery maintenance (maybe even fridge???) a 15 amp branch circuit will likely work fine given adequate adapters and correct cords and subject to other loads on the circuit...........

  John T  Live from the Florida Flywheelers in Fort Meade Florida 

 

 

Thanks Kirk,

 

Some more background on my unit. I have a 2017 Newmar Ventana with a residential fridge. The coach will be parked at a storage facility and covered. I don't know what else he has on the 15A circuit and he wasn't sure. The is another RV 50A RV with the appropriate adapter probably on the same ciruit. I do believe the inverter has to be on to charge the house batteries. Not sure of the engine battery. This is the first time I'm storing the RV at this location. Again thanks for your input.

Ray

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12 hours ago, Carlos said:

In my storage, the 15a plugs are shared amongst a whole bunch of other RVs.  So the question is...how much are we all using?  The owner says he doesn't want people leaving a bunch of things on because it's a limited service.  He specifically asked me whether I would be leaving ONLY the charger on and nothing else.

Imagine the mess coming back to a tripped breaker and the fridge closed up.  No, I'd clean it out.  (We had this happen on our boat, the breaker was accidentally turned off by a dock worker.  Ugh, the smell.)

 

 

Thanks Carlos

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12 hours ago, oldjohnt said:

Ray, good questions, here's my take:

One major concern for long term RV storage is keeping the batteries charged. Unless you had a huge high Amp Hour battery bank which was deeply discharged and subject to the capacity and initial current draw of a charger that might potentially trip a 15 amp circuit breaker, a 15 amp 120 Volt circuit should suffice given the correct plug and cord adapters and any extensions and any other loads on that branch circuit???? Given the same caveats, there stands a chance a fridge could also be powered at the same time BUT THATS SUBJECT TO THE FRIDGE TYPE (Compressor or LP/Electric ????) AND CURRENT DRAW of BOTH the fridge and charger. If there's no more then around 12 amps of continuous current (RV and anything else) a 15 amp 120 Volt branch circuit should suffice. A large compressor fridge requires a high initial current surge !!!

SETTINGS: If not automatic, If you have a stand alone Inverter, it should be OFF while on shore power. However a combination Inverter/Charger needs to be on of course to charge the batteries. Obviously if not automatic when plugged in you would be on Shore Power NOT Genset or Inverter. I have no idea what type of transfer switches and what you power from an Inverter so I cant answer everything from here.

NOTES:

    If left plugged in to keep batteries charged, I would want a "Smart" automatic 3 or 4 stage charger (or "Smart" automatic Inverter/Charger), NOT any old style humming buzzing more like constant voltage Converter/Charger.

    Other then a "Smart" automatic charger and perhaps the fridge, I would have alllllllllll other circuits turned OFF, unless there are LP Gas or CO2 or smoke/fire safety detectors that should be kept energized.  

    I never considered a good reason to leave a fridge running, instead I cleaned and dried it and left the door open. If for whatever reason you want to leave one on, and again subject to its type and current draw, a 15amp branch circuit might well suffice to keep the batteries charged as well as power the fridge?????????????? No way to know from here absent the specs.

   I would use a short as possible at least 12 even better 10 Gauge cord in the event the 50 amp RV cord didn't reach to the 15 amp receptacle.

  If I had my "druthers" Id want to be plugged into my own 15 amp branch circuit NOT one that feeds all other sorts of household loads. 

  While one option (if fridge isn't on) is to leave the RV unplugged and use a battery maintainer, remember many cheap ones are small and only intended for a small auto battery NOT a huge RV battery bank.

 BOTTOM LINE For ONLY battery maintenance (maybe even fridge???) a 15 amp branch circuit will likely work fine given adequate adapters and correct cords and subject to other loads on the circuit...........

  John T  Live from the Florida Flywheelers in Fort Meade Florida 

 

 

Thanks oldjohnt

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Good thread:)!

I'll add a few more comments:)!

> We travel 7-9 months a year. The off travel months are usually less then two months at a time, over the holidays. 

> We keep many of our coaches items in the fridge, as we have the same items in the home fridge (MIL lives in our now Vacation Home.). So ketchup, mustards, garlic olives for Friday's martini, etc, etc. We also leave many items in the freezer. 

> I've also posted many times, that in the San Diego area, we look to our RV as our full families Emergency Support vehicles. Fires, quakes, whatever - our coach is stocked with canned and dry foods. I do use our return to San Diego in mid November as a time to do a yearly drain sanitization of our water, and replace the filters at that time, then also top off water. While it is heavy, we keep about 105 gallons of water on board at all times while in San Diego. While traveling, we usually drop that to about a half a tank, for in case water problems occur at a park, or if we need to pull over for a few days from weather or mechanical problems. And, we also keep the Grey/Black empty while it is parked in San Diego too. 

=======

And I think it's a very caution to determine the number of coaches in storage that might be sharing a CB run... Our home is a dedicated 20A line to a single CB just for the coach. (If doing it today, I would have trenched and put in a 50A on the side where the power is on the coach. Now I run a 12GA 20' exterior extension cord to the driver's side coach cord.)

And a reminder, I do have the gizmo that text's me if power is lost in the home. This is a home we built next door for my MIL and her very sweet but extremely low function Down Syndrome son. The son, age 50 is now in a great Group Home with other Special Needs - and is thriving! MIL is 80 next month, and due to finances is living in our old home, which has become our Vacation Home, as we are Full Timer's, and drop in on the home to see family, friends, and do upkeep as needed. We have other family members nearby, that all network to help keep a good eye on MIL, and we will shift our travel's as needed to provide future assistance to her when/if needed. That home we built next door, is now a rental home, with our daughter living in a 1100' Granny flat up over our three car garage. I retain the garage for our Vacation Home Truck, as well as some other toys. We rent out the 2800' front home to a great tenant/friend, he has his own 2 car garage. When we built this home, corner lot, I added the RV Parking spot. And that is where we park our RV. 

I went thru that long winded explanation (Not the first time I've gone on a bit!), to explain why we keep our fridge powered up, inverter on, and why we feel it's safe to do so. 

Best to all,

Smitty

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22 hours ago, Ray USN said:

Some more background on my unit. I have a 2017 Newmar Ventana with a residential fridge. The coach will be parked at a storage facility and covered. I don't know what else he has on the 15A circuit and he wasn't sure. The is another RV 50A RV with the appropriate adapter probably on the same ciruit. I do believe the inverter has to be on to charge the house batteries

If it has a residential compressor powered fridge WHICH YOU CHOOSE TO LEAVE RUNNING and especially if there are other RV's on the same 15 Amp Circuit, subject to the other RV load (other one have a compressor fridge?? running??) and all yours, it could possibly (depends on loads) crowd a single 15 Amp circuit !!!!!!!!!!!!  No one can say without knowing all the loads !!!!! If no fridges are left running there's a much better chance all is well

YES a Charger MUST be on to charge the batteries

NO a stand alone pure Inverter doesn't have to be on to charge batteries, its actually a load on them !!!

YES a combinations Inverter/Charger needs to be powered so its charger can charge the batteries.  

John T

Edited by oldjohnt

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