RandyA Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 We've talked about this previously but I don't recall seeing any photos or specifics. I was not happy with just pumping air in the bags and hitting the road. I found a likely valve on eBay for about $30. It had an advertised six-second delay but was not specific to any particular vehicle. I mounted the valve on the fixed part of the hitch by drilling two holes and then tapping them to accept 1/4" stainless bolts. The reason for the taping was I did not have room for my fingers to attach a nut to the bolt on the inside. The mounting position was determined by having the end of the valve handle directly under an existing 1/2" hole in the upper part of the hitch. The rubber end links were supplied. It was important to allow easy rotation of the rubber end links to prevent shifting and binding as the upper part of the hitch moved. The bottom was easy as the supplied 10mm shoulder bolt allowed movement. To get free movement with the top rubber link I drilled a hole down the end of the 1/2" threaded rod and then tapped it for a 5/16" threaded stud using washers and a Nylock nut on the end. The airbag height adjustment was accomplished by backing off on the gear clamps and moving my link rod in or out. 1/4" nylon airline from the cab leveling valve supply was run to the back for the hitch leveling valve supply line. There is a ball valve in this line at the tap point so it can be cut off if needed. The same type of line comes out of the valve and runs to the airbag supply. This works extremely well-allowing air to fill or exhaust from the airbags keeping the hitch at a consistent level. No more concern about a slow leak causing the bags to deflate while on the road. The built-in delay in the valve keeps from having a basketball action. It works just like the leveling valve on the truck suspension and the cab suspension. I did allow for a manual air dump via a ball valve "T'ed" off the bag supply line (valve not shown). Randy, Nancy and Oscar "The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks. ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 As usual great job. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyates007 Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 Thank you. I have been thinking about doing this. Appreciate the pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 Problem on mine is that I don't have the room on the side to mount this. I need to figure a way to mount it internally under the swing arm on the front face/plate of the hitch. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrap Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 That's a Haldex type CR, or Controlled Response, valve if you need to look up info on it. Used the hell out of em in the 90's I think they were branded Neway back then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 Sweet mod. Class act 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 I did the same several years ago. First trip out, I discovered that big bumps can cause more hitch travel than the valve can handle in that location. I ruined two valves before correcting it. My rather cobby solution was to lengthen the valve arm by double it's stock length. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan0043 Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 Hi Everyone, This is a rookie question. I want to understand the reason for the leveling valve. Can someone please explain why is valve is needed ? Thank you for any input, Al 2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger " Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood " 2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Kildow Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 I think if you were to do this to my hitch. Then you would know for sure if you need to change anything. Nice job for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 Come on Al you are far from a rookie. Adding a leveling valve to a TrailerSaver saves having to deflate the bags when dropping and inflating when hooked up. Very convenient. I don’t remember which hitch you have but Henry’s have this feature as standard equipment. Nigel 2006 Volvo VNL 430, 2006 smart cabrio cdi, 2000 Triple E Topaz 30' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyA Posted January 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 😉 15 hours ago, Scrap said: That's a Haldex type CR, or Controlled Response, valve if you need to look up info on it. Used the hell out of em in the 90's I think they were branded Neway back then. Thanks, Scrap. It is always nice to have an older guy that "remembers when" willing to provide the needed additional information. Randy, Nancy and Oscar "The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks. ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyA Posted January 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 8 hours ago, rickeieio said: I did the same several years ago. First trip out, I discovered that big bumps can cause more hitch travel than the valve can handle in that location. I ruined two valves before correcting it. My rather cobby solution was to lengthen the valve arm by double it's stock length. The six-second delayed response built into the valve will hopefully keep that from happening. Randy, Nancy and Oscar "The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks. ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted January 15, 2019 Report Share Posted January 15, 2019 Nice job. I like the cutoff valve. I don't want to loose manual control of the hitch height for hooking up and unhooking. I just ordered the leveling valve. Thanks for the inspiration. Are you going to the ECR? Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted January 15, 2019 Report Share Posted January 15, 2019 5 hours ago, RandyA said: The six-second delayed response built into the valve will hopefully keep that from happening. Time wasn't a factor. A big bump could initiate more travel (degrees of rotation) than the valve could handle, allowing the arm to go over center. Making the arm longer reduced degrees of travel. I am on my iPad, thus can't pull up a picture of my valve, but it's been posted here a couple of times. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan0043 Posted January 15, 2019 Report Share Posted January 15, 2019 14 hours ago, NeverEasy said: Nice job. I like the cutoff valve. I don't want to loose manual control of the hitch height for hooking up and unhooking. I just ordered the leveling valve. Thanks for the inspiration. Are you going to the ECR? I would love to hear more about this mod at the ECR. Sounds like a good subject to be discuss. Well at least for me. 2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger " Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood " 2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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