SuiteSuccess Posted January 7, 2019 Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 Next project in month or so is to replace cab air bags. Watched Parrformance’s video on this (thanks for posting) but was thinking slightly different about process since my understanding is this can go easily or be a real bear. Steps I was going to follow. 1. Open hood to prevent damage. 2. Air up cab bags then block at bump stops. 3. Air down bags and disconnect air lines. 4. Cut the rubber from the bags, unscrew from top, remove lock washer from bottom. 5. Replace bag and air fittings, air up and check for leaks. Am I thinking correctly? Last is this possible without removing drom just maybe harder? 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parrformance Posted January 7, 2019 Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 Step 1 should be spray the top bolts liberally with penetrates a couple times a week for a couple of weeks. Otherwise your steps will/should work. Do not overthink it it was not very tough. 2006 Volvo VNL 780, " Arvey" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift 2003 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 2010 Forest River Coachman Freedom Express 280RLS Jackalopee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan0043 Posted January 7, 2019 Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 Hi Carl, Hopefully Roger will see this post. I can't remember all the details that Roger was telling me about removing the air bags. One thing that I do remember is to soak the bolts with a penetrate for a couple of days. Al 2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger " Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood " 2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted January 7, 2019 Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 While you are contemplating this operation on your truck, you just may want to look at what the cab air bags sits on. The above post appeared while I was typing mine. They are excellent info to do while you are waiting for this operation. That cross support for tha airbags can rust out. You may want to have that part in hand when you start. I had quit a time to remove all the parts and replace everything that needed replaced in there. Probable took three times as long as I thought it would. I also made real sure the new cross member was really well painted as Volvo likes to keep there primer under lock. Next thing is old throwaway clothing including a beany cap. I also now use ski mask for grinding and dirty work under there. I no longer like the dirt in the eye trick that comes with such a job. You may need several cut off blades for a the 4" grinder you may need. Now no swearing on the subject either. Vern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertMiner Posted January 7, 2019 Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 How old is the leveling valve? How are the air lines going to and from it? Add Donvel valves to improve the sway control and ride of the cab. What about the condition/age of the shocks or torsion spring. Might want to change those out while you’re in there. Don’t forget the anti-seize on all the nuts and bolts. Did you get new “ snap rings” for fastening the bottom of the bags! What about changing to compression type fittings on the bags? How are your “bump stops”? Do you have the large steel spacers that look like very large fender washers? They keep the top of the bag from rubbing on the top cross member. Some older models have them and some don’t. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted January 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 1 hour ago, DesertMiner said: How old is the leveling valve? How are the air lines going to and from it? Add Donvel valves to improve the sway control and ride of the cab. What about the condition/age of the shocks or torsion spring. Might want to change those out while you’re in there. Don’t forget the anti-seize on all the nuts and bolts. Did you get new “ snap rings” for fastening the bottom of the bags! What about changing to compression type fittings on the bags? How are your “bump stops”? Do you have the large steel spacers that look like very large fender washers? They keep the top of the bag from rubbing on the top cross member. Some older models have them and some don’t. Thanks everyone. Dessert Miner all great points. I had forgotten about the Donvels. Something I definitely wanted to add. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted January 7, 2019 Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 Carl, Don't sweat it. With a little pre-soak as others advise, it's not too bad. Susan did the bulk of the work when we changed ours, until I jacked up the truck so I could get under there too. I also cut out a panel in our headache rack, as we have no drom. Vern is right, that cross member can rust out. Had ours repaired in Alaska. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegas Teacher Posted January 8, 2019 Report Share Posted January 8, 2019 $ 90.00 to have it done for me by a mechanic, dropped it off in the morning, picked it up in the afternoon. That included the airbag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asross72 Posted January 8, 2019 Report Share Posted January 8, 2019 On 1/6/2019 at 7:03 PM, SuiteSuccess said: Next project in month or so is to replace cab air bags. Watched Parrformance’s video on this (thanks for posting) but was thinking slightly different about process since my understanding is this can go easily or be a real bear. Steps I was going to follow. 1. Open hood to prevent damage. 2. Air up cab bags then block at bump stops. 3. Air down bags and disconnect air lines. 4. Cut the rubber from the bags, unscrew from top, remove lock washer from bottom. 5. Replace bag and air fittings, air up and check for leaks. Am I thinking correctly? Last is this possible without removing drom just maybe harder? Is there a link to the video.? 2007 Volvo 880 2014 Palomino Sabre 36qbok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted January 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2019 14 minutes ago, Asross72 said: Is there a link to the video.? https://youtu.be/3F_kux2_NZQ 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asross72 Posted January 11, 2019 Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 Thank you 2007 Volvo 880 2014 Palomino Sabre 36qbok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertMiner Posted January 11, 2019 Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 After watching the video.... review Suites initial post for important steps not in the video! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted January 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 Went over and looked at truck. Going to be a bigger project than originally anticipated. My drom covers the rail access to the top bolt if it busts loose. Also getting to the bags and shocks will be a bear from under the truck. My drom is smaller than most and held by 4 bolts easily accessed. Gonna get to a place I can connect my portable chain hoist to or rent an “A” frame and just remove the drom. Will make access so much easier. Will try to get some pics to post so everyone can see the problem. Cross member is good but want to replace shocks and leveling valve at same time. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parrformance Posted January 11, 2019 Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 2 hours ago, DesertMiner said: After watching the video.... review Suites initial post for important steps not in the video! +1 2006 Volvo VNL 780, " Arvey" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift 2003 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 2010 Forest River Coachman Freedom Express 280RLS Jackalopee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted January 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 Here are some pics of my setup. Shows how removing drom helps. Drivers side above, passenger side below. View under from passenger side to shocks and leveling valve. You can see how the drom covers access to the bolt and rail if the welded nut were to bust loose. Oh well, just a slight adjustment in plans. Have to be malleable when we work on these trucks. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted January 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 One question. How do you adjust the leveling valve? Just take measurements from the old? 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertMiner Posted January 11, 2019 Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 I’m sure Volvo has a procedure that adjusts it correctly.... a good place to start is don’t adjust the rod between the truck and valve. Measure and make sure the measurement is the same after installing the new parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted January 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 8 minutes ago, DesertMiner said: I’m sure Volvo has a procedure that adjusts it correctly.... a good place to start is don’t adjust the rod between the truck and valve. Measure and make sure the measurement is the same after installing the new parts. That’s what I was thinking. I’ve got a bunch of Volvo manuals on my computer. Will search them. Thanks DesertMiner, you’ve been a big help. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runaway parents Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 Well just want to add a point that can turn a fun project into a nightmare this happen to me bought new cab air bags new ptc connectors did not check them before installing them. Installed air bags .All along thinking this is easy. Went to air them up, air leak around new fitting. Realized top of air bag was cracked ok thought to myself must of been defective. Took it back got a replacement. Put old fitting back into replacement air bag. Put air to it . No air leaks but the other one was leaking air. It to was cracked . I said to my self what the heck is going on. Looked a the new fittings and found out the new ones had a tapered end . Which when installed split the top of the air bag the old fitting had a square threaded end lesson learned the hard way thought I would pass it along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegas Teacher Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 Once again $90.00 no head ache, no trouble shooting no reading manuals, we to a semi shop, had tge work done by a professional dropped off in the morrning picked up in the afternoon. No skinned knuckles, no four letter words, no stress, no videos just pulled out my credit card. Sometimes plastic is the best tool of all. 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted January 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 8 hours ago, Vegas Teacher said: Once again $90.00 no head ache, no trouble shooting no reading manuals, we to a semi shop, had tge work done by a professional dropped off in the morrning picked up in the afternoon. No skinned knuckles, no four letter words, no stress, no videos just pulled out my credit card. Sometimes plastic is the best tool of all. 😁 Yeah but Corey what’s the fun in that? Like hiring a chauffeur to drive your truck for you.😜. (Just kidding with you.). 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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