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Grassy

Electric Baseboard in our 5th wheel

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Folks,

 

Since entering the states we seem to be doing a lot of winter camping !   Which means we are using our suburban 35F propane heater a lot.   It the past, it was rarely used.

We had problems with it and had the sail switch replaced in Lisbon Tn. I have the old  the sail switch and the metal part will only go back into position occasionally. The system died again in Hot Springs Ar .a couple days later...identical symptoms..btw,  the repair guy tested the board before he replaced the switch.. but we were leaving that day. We are now in Shreveport , La and it was cold last night but we have a little 750 watt heater..it works but have to unplug it if we want to use the coffee maker or toaster :)  This is do-able but...

This rig has been rock solid and wondering if this system is a lemon. We will be doing a lot more cold camping with hook ups...need advice. Oh, my son who is an electrician will be with us over xmas in Tx..

I think I would like to maintain the 30 amp connection.. I am thinking of tapping into it.. add a separate fuse box..and just put one in the main part of the rig... probably at the back of the rig.

The latest discussion of this on this board was in '15..wonder if technology has changed.

 

thanks all..

 

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We have 50 amp connections and I wired a 6' baseboard heater to take the chill off next to our chairs.  It works okay but it is not very efficient.   It ups the electric bill noticeably.  This one is a 240 volt model.

Edited by Randyretired

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9 hours ago, Grassy said:

Anybody hear of or use the "cheap heat"  add on option ?

I have Cheap Heat installed in my 5er.  It works pretty much the same as when on propane.  I can’t really tell a difference in heating output.  I like it as an option when staying in a non metered spot.  I figure using the provided electricity is much better than paying for my own propane.  My cheap heat is the 50 amp version though.  They came out with a dual mode 30 amp/50 amp option after we bought ours.  I don’t know how well the 30 amp option works and I never looked to see if they offer a 30 amp only option (since my rig is 50 amp).  

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Would something like this help?    https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/redstone-infrared-quartz-rolling-mantel-fireplace?cm_vc=IOPDP1

They have several sizes. 

We use this one when we need a touch more warmth: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Tough-Buddy-18000-BTU-Portable-Radiant-Propane-Heater/3011768

Edited by NDBirdman

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I have used propane in enclosed spaces.. but in my experience, they add a tremendous amount of moisture ...

We tend not to be long stayers .. we are being charged electricity where we are now at in Mission.. I have heard negatives about baseboard that is why the cheap heat interests me..

I have emailed the company with no response.. are they still in business..and I have looked for local dealers.. but no one lists them..

 

Thanks, Ian.

 

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Update. Ran into a ex airplane mechanic who rebuilt my system. It is a heck of a lot quieter and heats faster now.

After trying to contact the folks at cheap heat to find a dealer, they couldn't bother to respond by voice nor e=mail.  I contacted several places where we are parked and most had heard of them but that was as far as I got.

It looks to me that they have gone under or are in the process of...

I think this is a topic I will dig further into..but not while I am on the road.

 

Thanks 

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With a 30 amp connection, you can only get a certain amount of heat out, without tripping a breaker. The only time electric heat is cheaper, is when the power isn't metered. Cold costs $$$.

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On 11/26/2018 at 11:00 AM, Grassy said:

 We are now in Shreveport , La and it was cold last night but we have a little 750 watt heater..it works but have to unplug it if we want to use the coffee maker or toaster :)  This is do-able but...

This rig has been rock solid and wondering if this system is a lemon. We will be doing a lot more cold camping with hook ups...need advice. Oh, my son who is an electrician will be with us over xmas in Tx..

I think I would like to maintain the 30 amp connection.. I am thinking of tapping into it.. add a separate fuse box..and just put one in the main part of the rig...

Perhaps a dedicated 15/20 amp outlet wired to a box allowing the use of a second cord from the power post for a heater could leave you with your full 30 amp service without juggling appliances.

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I dont use the RV furnace unless I have NO OTHER options.  I prefer to use a ProCom ceramic brick heater.  Propane, high efficiency and does the job better than anything else I have used.  Your trailer likely could use a 2 or 3 brick.

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With 30 amp service in you RV, I would recommend putting in a dedicated 15 amp recepticle for your heater. I have 50 amp service on mine and still use a dedicated 15 amp heater service to prevent breaker tripping due to intermittent high loads...hair dryer, microwave, etc.  The dedicated service is plugged into the parks 15 amp outlet and has a 15 amp male input mounted through the camper wall and connected to a duplex recepticle near the 15 amp input. You can mount a circuit breaker/fuse in the circuit if you plan on using the parks 50 amp service adapted to 15 amps. This setup has worked well for me and for several others who have used it.    Charlie

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on the same deal here... heat.

 

is there a usable way to do a floor heat?

kinda like heating pads just under the floor but above the insulation? i know electric is not very good at heating, why this is just a thought.

heat only the areas that would need it,  as in around the bed, in-front of the chairs, maybe the hallway/stairs, bathroom.

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no problem. i can just buy a second eu3000,

just for the floor heat.

the rv i have now. lets just say the cardboard walls are the insulation. will be happy in about five years or so i can buy a far better unit.

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We use electric heater(s) to take the chill out but we also keep going to warmer climates and don't stay in cool/cold places.

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