Need help on coolant loss

[Padraic]

Hi guys, I start our 98 Volvo truck today and it shut down with "Fluid check light" on. Open the hood, found the coolant plastic tank was empty. Pour a gallon of distilled water to bring it below the min mark and the truck started and I drove it for an hour or more. 

It has been 10 months since the whole 12 gallons coolant replaced by a shop, I added SCA and test strip for concentration. I drove it on and off more than 20 times in short trips average an hour per trip. I did the water filter with SCA added myself. I would need to look at it and see any leaks from it.

If it is not leaking externally, that means the water has a path to the engine, right? That will not be good. Someone tell me my plastic tank is yellow and it may mean water leak in the engine. Where would be the likely path? Anyone has experience in this kind of trouble.  

This is a photo of the plastic coolant tank, the coolant is higher in one side than the other when the engine is running. I don't recall that happening before. Any idea?

Appreciated any comments.

[Padraic]

Is there a radiator cap on the 98 VNL 610? I have not ever noticed one. I assume there is one like any car radiator. I should check the cap and if there are any leaks there or the pressure is still good. Further, read on my Diesel book. There seems a lot of air escaping to the overflow bottle. That must be the high coolant level I noticed.

Any picture of that cap location would be appreciated.

[Wrknrvr]

 There is no cap like you think there would be. It's the black cap on the passengers side of the yellowish tank.

 Now a big peice of cardboard under you truck hopefully will show where the leak is. Hooefully it is leaking externally from a hose connection or filter leak.

 

 Every time I open the hood I look at a white pencil mark as to where the level should be on the tank. Always???

 

 Now the level should have been watch at each time it was started when you had the fluid changed. That is my thought. Just to make sure there was no leak frome the work done.

 

 Now after that was stated, the air coming out seems to be questionable. Do some research on that subject on the forum. 

 

I am am hoping for an easy fix.     

 

 Safe travels,.   Vern

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

Check around the water pump area to see if you have a small leak.  Check your oil to make sure it's not milky.  

 

[Padraic]

I am puzzling of so much air vent out from the radiator/engine. Maybe the coolant is low and traps air. Will work on it today when the sun is out.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

So with the cap off the coolant tank and the engine running, your getting air pressure out of the opening?  If that is what is happening you probably have a blown head gasket.  Crack is letting boost into the water jacket and blowing it out.  

[Padraic]

I saw the leak under the truck today. It turns out the hose clamp was not set correctly after the shop changed the coolant 10 months ago. They lose the clamp and drain the fluid from the big radiator hose in February. But he did not sit the clamp correctly, it was off about 1/4 inch off from the original groove.

In terms of coolant air venting, will see it will continue. So Volvo doesn't have a pressure cap like others, that means the coolant pressure must be low. 

Thanks, everyone chip in for the ideas.

[Wrknrvr]

   Make sure the antifreeze,water ratio is correct when you are done. Search the net for a possible vent to blend off air in the upper area of the engine. I would get the engine to temperature and let cool down completely several times to get all the air out. It may not be the best thing to just fill it once and forget it.

 

I had had a extremely small leak on a hose that connected the radiator to the engine block on the passenger side. I had put another clamp on the top of the old clamp. And  had a frustrating time to keep it from leaking. Just enough to have moisture there. After several years of it testing my patience I finally replaced all the hoses and antifreeze.

 

 Safe Travels,.   Vern

[Padraic]

Vern, thanks.

   Sound like the loose clamp introduce air in the system and will need to monitor if any more small leak present. The radiator volume is about 10 to 12 gallons. I added 1 gallon of distilled water for the engine to stay on. That means instead of 50/50 mix, I have roughly 40/60 mix.

I have the Havoline Chevron antifreeze (green stuff), hard to come by locally except an hour drive to the shop did my coolant change. Try to keep it the same. Of course, DCA may need to be added after testing it.

[rpsinc]

I went through a seminar at the National HDT Rally where an instructor with lots of HDT experience told us that green coolant is green coolant. no matter whos name is on the jug.  They are the same in ingredients and can be mixed by brand.  They cannot be mixed by color, so dont use coolants that arent green.

[Hewhoknowslittle]

On 11/8/2018 at 8:32 PM, Padraic said:

 

In terms of coolant air venting, will see it will continue. So Volvo doesn't have a pressure cap like others, that means the coolant pressure must be low. 

Thanks, everyone chip in for the ideas.

It does have a pressure cap, it’s the cap on the passenger side, the cap on the drivers side is on the overflow tank. I also had a slow leak that I could not find for 2 years, then at the ECR the flood started and we replaced the water pump, never added coolant again. 

Roger

[Padraic]

Good to know all green coolant is the same. I need to add half a gallon to bring it back to the MIN mark. Thanks.

[Wrknrvr]

  Now I mite be wrong on this subject. Probably am wrong.

 

 But if my mind recalls, green is not for our trucks.

 

 I am really out on a skinny limb on this but.

 

    Hope I am wrong. I wrote before checking on what is really in there. 

 

    But just had to make that statement,.   Vern

[Jaydrvr]

Green is generally indicative of the original type coolant, which requires more maintenance and more changes, if you want your engine parts to last. The purple, red or whatever other colors are generally long life coolants, requiring less maintenance and lasting up to about 250,000 miles. Either one will work.  UMMV... Jay

[Padraic]

Jay, you are right. Green is the original coolant. With that, it needs DCA added and Nitrate test. A little more hands on. Maybe cheaper. I happen to have the green put in the last service. I used to have the extended life type. 

Once you read it up on the net, they all do the job of anti-corrosion with expanding temperature range.

I open the cap when it is hot on my 1998 Volvo. It does have some low pressure, unlike a car. It is safe to open when it is hot.

[LostSoul]

Although I never noticed my fluid level changing I was getting a small amount of antifreeze in my oil as tested at each change. My problem was oil coolers. Replaced them both. 

[beemergary]

My old Pete with close to a million miles still has its original air compressor. It has coolant running thru it. Could be a place to loose coolant or get air in system.

[Padraic]

I will check in to the coolant in the whole system more closely once I get our old rig to Yuma AZ from VA. I am hoping the coolant stays OK in this trip. I pick up a spare bottle just in case. Finger cross.

[jenandjon]

On 11/10/2018 at 8:40 AM, Wrknrvr said:

  Now I mite be wrong on this subject. Probably am wrong.

 

 But if my mind recalls, green is not for our trucks.

 

 I am really out on a skinny limb on this but.

 

    Hope I am wrong. I wrote before checking on what is really in there. 

 

    But just had to make that statement,.   Vern

That all depends. Mine is an 03 it has green. I remember back in 2000 I got a brand new KW. It had green but the 95 Chevy farm truck had red. Then in 02 we got a new international 4400 that took red.

[Wrknrvr]

 Well now there is no more guessing. I am wrong on that color statement.

 

 Yep it happens,.  Vern

[JPL]

Padraic  Are you from Va?    Pat

 

 

The Old Sailor

[Padraic]

Yes in VA for 7 years, just retired and go back to the west coast. Selling the house. I am driving to Yuma home base. Coolant is ok. Battery of the trailer died and working on a replacement. 

The truck battery may need to upgrade to the AGM version to handle more load beside starting. 

[Phil D]

9 hours ago, Padraic said:

The truck battery may need to upgrade to the AGM version to handle more load beside starting. 

If you're able to stop and get them before you get west of the Mississippi River, pick up your truck batteries at Sam's Club.  Their AGM Group 31 batteries in their clubs east of the Mississippi are from East Penn Manufacturing (Deka), but far cheaper than you can buy them from a Deka distributor.  Clubs west of the Mississippi also carry Group 31 AGMs, but they're sourced from Johnson Controls, like the ordinary lead-acid batteries in all their clubs.

[HERO Maker]

Good info Phil.