Removing Volvo Cab Visor

[SuiteSuccess]

I posted couple months ago about my water intrusion into the cab on my Volvo.  Am going to run a thin silicone strip along the gasket as suggested by AV8R3400 but discussed situation with local commercial truck glass shop and replacing gasket.  He advised he has rarely seen the gasket being the culprit and suggested Volvo visor or cab seams.  Anyone ever removed or “waterproofed” their visor?  BTW on our recent trip leaked again during heavy rains while driving and parked.  Should have done the silicone before the trip.

 

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

No haven't thought about the visor as the source, but if water is entering the threads and following them into the interior it would run as gravity allows.

[jkoenig24]

Your whisper tool isn't helping ID where the water is leaking in?

[SuiteSuccess]

3 minutes ago, jkoenig24 said:

Your whisper tool isn't helping ID where the water is leaking in?

Unfortunately not John.

[Jaydrvr]

Make SURE that's what you want to do. There are only a handful of fasteners bolting the visor to the cab and if you spin one loose, you're stuck with disassembling the inside ceiling to get to the backside to fix it. When my visor developed unrelated problems, I ended up patching it in place, rather than taking the risk. Don't see how you could have any appreciable leaks through those few tiny fasteners. Jay

[Parrformance]

The water intrusion into my Volvo VNL 780 cab was from the passenger side cab seam.  I caulked as far as I could reach from a ladder at the back of the cab. This stopped the leaking when parked, but still had water intrusion when at highway speeds.

I risked life and limb and climbed atop the cab and caulked the seen out as far as this 5' 8" gnome could reach, NO MORE Leaks:)

[solo318]

This is actually a common problem. The hardware has fancy washers that hold a little rubber gasket in place between the visor and the roof. Usually not hard to take off. If they are leaking you should replace them as well. If memory serves there are 8 total. You local dealer will tell you for sure.

As an preventative measure you could spray around the hardware with some pb blaster and it should leach into the threads of the "offending" hardware. While your up there use some seam sealer on the cab seams as well.

[SuiteSuccess]

16 minutes ago, solo318 said:

This is actually a common problem. The hardware has fancy washers that hold a little rubber gasket in place between the visor and the roof. Usually not hard to take off. If they are leaking you should replace them as well. If memory serves there are 8 total. You local dealer will tell you for sure.

As an preventative measure you could spray around the hardware with some pb blaster and it should leach into the threads of the "offending" hardware. While your up there use some seam sealer on the cab seams as well.

So I can access these from the outside and unscrew?  I haven’t climbed up to see yet.  Was hoping I didn’t have to approach from inside the cab.

[solo318]

1 minute ago, SuiteSuccess said:

So I can access these from the outside and unscrew?  I haven’t climbed up to see yet.  Was hoping I didn’t have to approach from inside the cab.

All of the hardware is outside the cab. you should have 2 torx screws on each end, and either 4 or 6 larger ones above the windshield. While your up there put some sealant around the radio antenna.

You can stand on top of the engine for the middle ones.

 

If you have any clearance lights that are out. Now is the time to replace them. you have to pull the visor to do so.

 

[alan0043]

Hi Carl,

Be careful standing on the engine. That is how I had to do it on my first truck when I removed the visor. If I remember right, the plug for the clearance lights is in one of the brackets. The wire lead was not to long. You might need three arms for this job. Don't be in any hurry. 

Best of luck with the repair,
Al

[SuiteSuccess]

2 hours ago, alan0043 said:

Hi Carl,

Be careful standing on the engine. That is how I had to do it on my first truck when I removed the visor. If I remember right, the plug for the clearance lights is in one of the brackets. The wire lead was not to long. You might need three arms for this job. Don't be in any hurry. 

Best of luck with the repair,
Al

Thanks Al.  I’m not going to stand on the engine.  I have two Little Giant ladders and going to make a scaffold across.

[SuiteSuccess]

Recommended seam sealer?  I’ve been using Lexcel on the trailer. 

[DesertMiner]

5 minutes ago, SuiteSuccess said:

Lexcel

????

[SuiteSuccess]

1 hour ago, DesertMiner said:

????

Sorry, should have been Lexel.  

https://www.amazon.com/Sashco-13010-Sealants-Adhesive-10-5-Ounce/dp/B07BT3NFW1/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538509695&sr=8-2&keywords=lexel+sealant+clear

[NeverEasy]

Don't know about Gen 2.  Last week I removed the visor on my '01 to repaint and fix the left clearance light.  Two 1.25 x 8 mm. x 30mm hex head bolts on the cab sides.  Two torx head (T40) in the middle, same size as outer.  Once the bolts were removed, the visor just sat on the inner mounting brackets so there was no hassle holding it up.

Wire for lights came out the right cab mounting brackets, underneath the visor perch.  It was long enough to lift the visor out, pull the connector out from the cab, and disconnect. 

I used my backhoe bucket to work out of.  Eight foot bucket gave me plenty of room.

Side bolts were very rusty.  The left one twisted off.  The nut is a rivet nut in the fiberglass cab.  I drilled it out and put in a new aluminum rivet nut.  I used stainless steel hardware to put it back on.

 

[SuiteSuccess]

Looked at mine.  Looks like five hex heads.  Didn’t remove yet because my scaffolding idea using ladders didn’t work out as planned.  Did silicone around my windshield.