sclord2002 Posted July 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2018 Carl, the Smart DISREPAIR shop might be more fitting. I do know how to make one look like a refugee from a junk yard by removing panels now. New fan, new tires....the Smart is BAAACK.... Charlie Don't ever tell a soldier that he doesn't understand the cost of war. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Williams Posted July 17, 2018 Report Share Posted July 17, 2018 Charlie, Glad you found the issue and could get it reset. I didn't have that issue on mine, just a simple part change. Kinda scary how simple the front end comes off, isn't it? Chuck 2006 Freightliner M2-112 Sportchassis 2015 Keystone Raptor 412-TS Lots of motorcycles and toys Murfreesboro, TN. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sclord2002 Posted July 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 Chuck, seeing the Smarts with the front end off gave me some concern but after removing and reinstalling mine, i realized that it is not a hard job at all. I bet someone with a couple of removals/reinstallations under their belt could have the front end off in 10-15 minutes. Trying to pay close attention to what screws/plastic rivits came from where, coupled with the fact that this was my first Smart rodeo, it took me a while longer. My wife helped me put it back together, so that went pretty fast. The whole job would not have been bad except for the time I spent scratching my head about why the new fan was not getting power but the latched fault for a shorted coolant fan was the reason for that. Resetting that fault let the fan work as advertised and now the A/C blows cold air at idle. I still have not had the fan come on due to just coolant temp but I believe it has not gotten the coolant hot enough to need it. Be Safe. Charlie Don't ever tell a soldier that he doesn't understand the cost of war. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan0043 Posted July 18, 2018 Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 16 hours ago, sclord2002 said: WOO HOO...Joy in Mudville !! Realizing that I had no real wiring diagram and no idea where the signal to the fan from the coolant temp and A/C on signal came from, I called Christian Brothers Automotive and they said they had access to to wiring data and a compatible diagnostic computer but they had not worked on a Smart before. I asked about their labor rates and they said $105.00/hour. I made an appointment for 14:00 today and took the Smart in with no front clip or lower panels in case they had to get to some internal thingamajig. I explained to the nice young technician the previous symptoms and what I had done up to this point. Surprisingly, he didn't say anything bad and listened intently and asked if the car had overheated.....I told him no. He hooked up his diagnostic computer and after some button pushing, the new fan came on and it was even running in the right direction !! The problem was that the high current draw that I had alluded to earlier, had triggered a cooling fan shorted fault and disabled the signal to the fan. I gave the nice young technician a nice tip and happily paid the $31.00 bill. Needless to say, I was one happy and relieved camper. I guess ther is some truth to the old adage about what to do when in over your head....quit digging and get help. Thanks to all for the suggestions and support. If I could dance, I would do a happy dance !! Again, thanks to all. Charlie Hi Charlie, I have a question for you. The part that needed reset, was it inside the car or under the front clip ? Curious minds need to know. I am glad your smarty is up and running correctly. Do you think you will trip that circuit again ? Al 2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger " Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood " 2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sclord2002 Posted July 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 Al, the trouble code he reset was a code for a shortred coolant fan. He reset it with his diagnostic computer. I should not get that code again unless something causes the new fan to draw too much current. As a diagnostic test, I hotwired the old fan using my battery charger and is was slow and noisy and got the motor leads hot in about 15 seconds. I knew I was on the right track by replacing the fan but didn't know that the latched fault was keeping the fan circuit from being energized. I chased wires, fuses and relays and scratched my head fo a couple of hours before I realised I was headed down a rabbit hole and not solving the problem. I seiously doubted that the repair shop would be able to help but their computer showed the code and clearing it restored power to the fan circuit. The Smart's computer sensed a high current draw on the old fan and shut down the circuit to prevent the high current draw from damaging something. The circuit remained dead until the code was reset. The computers in cars can be great but they can be hard on us old shade-tree mechanics without diagnostic computers, software or good electrical schematics. Charlie Don't ever tell a soldier that he doesn't understand the cost of war. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan0043 Posted July 19, 2018 Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 Hi Charlie, Thank you so much for the answer. It is also nice to learn something new. Know if I can just remember it. Sounds like the computer could have saved the car from a fire. Al 2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger " Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood " 2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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