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Mastercraft

DPF DIY Service on D16

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I took apart the DPF and had it cleaned since I don't know how long its been since it was done and it seemed like the regens were happening more often.   After it was baked out, contacted Volvo for gaskets to put it back together.  Volvo really likes the stuff they put their name on, so got aftermarket on line for 20% of what Volvo wanted. 

Now the fun starts.    I talked to the mechanic types at Inland Kenworth where I had the DPF baked out. They said to check the doser (7th injector) and clean the carbon off to insure the regen process works and get as hot as it should.   Ok, no problem.  Again Volvo wants $85 for the doser gasket kit......aftermarket $20. 

It seems the doser had never been taken off and the two metric bolts (less than 1/4" diameter) that hold the doser on had made themselves one with the cast iron pipe that is Vband clamped to the outlet of the turbo.  So, I do my 50/50 trans fluid and acetone to attempt to penetrate the threads.  Didn''t really work too well. You can't get to the bolt to add any heat.  So, one bolt came out after doing the loosen tighten dance all the way out.   The other one, well, most of it stayed with the cast pipe, but I got the rest of it.  By the way, a mule skinner would have taken notice of my descriptors when it was obvious the bolt had been twisted past its material elasticity limit.

Unless there are suggestions, my path is to weld a nut onto the 3/16" of exposed bolt.  If that doesn't work, drill it out and don't break off an easy out in there. Or maybe drill out both of them and put a more substantial diameter bolt in there.

Progress pictures to follow

Doser.jpg

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I Myself I’ve had great luck with welding a nut on the end of a broken off bolt and then removing it with an impact, I do it while it’s still hot as the heat will help break it loose you have nothing to lose by doing this and everything to gain.

Roger

Edited by Hewhoknowslittle

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Not real common, but plumbers have a torch that uses ambient air and straight acetylene through a pretty small torch (8"-9") and it will get what you're working on hotter than a firecracker. If you need one & can't find one, shoot me a PM. Keep on with the ATF & Acetone. Grease your drill bits so you don't dump a bunch a metal chips down the throat.

Good Luck

 

 

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If you can, drill a very small hole down the center of the broken fastener, then heat it and the surrounding area.  Rub a candle on it and let it wick in the wax.  Then shoot compressed air through the hole you drilled.  The air will chill the broken bolt enough to turn it out with a pliers.

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Based on my experiences with ez outs, i would try other methods above, then just drill the bolt out and tap the hole  before i would attempt breaking an ez-out in the bolt.

much harder to drill out high carbon steel.

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I ussually weld a washer to bolt then weld a nut to washer, you get a better weld that way, then quench nut and washer to shrink bolt and turn out

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5 hours ago, Bob A said:

I ussually weld a washer to bolt then weld a nut to washer, you get a better weld that way, then quench nut and washer to shrink bolt and turn out

I'm with Bob. Weld a flat washer first then nut. Bolts usually come out of cast fairly easy.

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These are the P/Ns I got

Doser kit

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DPF-INJECTOR-SERVICE-KIT-Gasket-Bolts-For-ISX-ISM-CUMMINS/272010514808?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

DPF and exhaust pipe gaskets

From    www.dpfgasketsupply.com     

21371339    crosses to    CGI-71339

21095726    crosses to    FSS-95726

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1 hour ago, Mastercraft said:

These are the P/Ns I got

Doser kit

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DPF-INJECTOR-SERVICE-KIT-Gasket-Bolts-For-ISX-ISM-CUMMINS/272010514808?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

DPF and exhaust pipe gaskets

From    www.dpfgasketsupply.com     

21371339    crosses to    CGI-71339

21095726    crosses to    FSS-95726

Interesting.. Thanks for the info. Looks as if everything crosses over to Cummins...

Good luck getting the bolt out. Let us know what finally works for you

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If I got this right for every 100 degrees of heat metal expands 1000s of an inch so with that being said drill a hole threw screw. and take a  can off air (you know the  kind that you can buy at office depot they use it to clean computers and such)turn it up side down and blow it threw the bolt freezing it . Should cause the screw to constrict enough to back it out of there with a easy out. but you have to work quick .Might use a hot air gun on outside area.

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I think this is a blind hole for these two bolts.  That is they don't break into the exhaust path.....seems like if they did, you could never get these out, even on a good day.

 

This is my weld plan

Smashed a penny pretty thin on the anvil.  Drill hole to match bolt diameter  (this is if I get carried away with the MIG so I don't weld the bolt to the cast)   This copper washer goes on first. ( i know...ain't much copper in a penny any more)

Next a steel washer and small tack

Next a little thicker/bigger steel washer with a tack and puddle weld the whole deal

Next a nut, little tack outside and puddle the inside full

I like the quench idea for the next step

Hit it with a hammer

Then get a box wrench on it and do the tighten loosen thing and hope it cooperates.

 

 

So, looking forward, when I put the new bolts in....anti seize or is there something that will take the heat better......Teflon tape, or ??? 

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Instead of a penny, get a  3/4" copper pipe cap and flatten it. Nothing will stick to it and you should be good to go with your welding. Since 1982, a penny is 97.5% zinc and only 2.5% copper. That zinc will melt, coat the broken off bolt and make it very difficult for you.

Edited by GeorgiaHybrid

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All of the above solutions have worked for me at various times.  Do the least invasive things first so you always have a "Plan B".  That's why I suggested the hole and compressed air.  If the air nozzle is small enough, it won't matter if the hole is blind.  The escaping air will still chill the broken bolt.

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As long as you don't get too wild with the welder, the weld will not stick to the cast.

I have successfully pulled Cat manifold bolts out of the head that were broke off 3/8 into the hole.

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On 6/13/2018 at 7:20 AM, Mastercraft said:

I took apart the DPF and had it cleaned since I don't know how long its been since it was done and it seemed like the regens were happening more often.   After it was baked out, contacted Volvo for gaskets to put it back together.  Volvo really likes the stuff they put their name on, so got aftermarket on line for 20% of what Volvo wanted. 

Now the fun starts.    I talked to the mechanic types at Inland Kenworth where I had the DPF baked out. They said to check the doser (7th injector) and clean the carbon off to insure the regen process works and get as hot as it should.   Ok, no problem.  Again Volvo wants $85 for the doser gasket kit......aftermarket $20. 

It seems the doser had never been taken off and the two metric bolts (less than 1/4" diameter) that hold the doser on had made themselves one with the cast iron pipe that is Vband clamped to the outlet of the turbo.  So, I do my 50/50 trans fluid and acetone to attempt to penetrate the threads.  Didn''t really work too well. You can't get to the bolt to add any heat.  So, one bolt came out after doing the loosen tighten dance all the way out.   The other one, well, most of it stayed with the cast pipe, but I got the rest of it.  By the way, a mule skinner would have taken notice of my descriptors when it was obvious the bolt had been twisted past its material elasticity limit.

Unless there are suggestions, my path is to weld a nut onto the 3/16" of exposed bolt.  If that doesn't work, drill it out and don't break off an easy out in there. Or maybe drill out both of them and put a more substantial diameter bolt in there.

Progress pictures to follow

Doser.jpg

Master....

Sounds a little Hi-Tech coming from a old hill Billy but IF you really want that bolt out cleanly without any damage just look for a local machine shop that has a EDM machine and have them Electro-Discharge-Machine the bolt out in very little time .....no fuss....we removed broken taps in $700,000 turbine parts without any sweat.....

Many large motorcyle machine shops use EDM to recover broken studs in bike cylinders a lot.

Drive on...... (Try EDM ...... you will like it/

 

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14 hours ago, Dollytrolley said:

Master....

Sounds a little Hi-Tech coming from a old hill Billy but IF you really want that bolt out cleanly without any damage just look for a local machine shop that has a EDM machine and have them Electro-Discharge-Machine the bolt out in very little time .....no fuss....we removed broken taps in $700,000 turbine parts without any sweat.....

Many large motorcyle machine shops use EDM to recover broken studs in bike cylinders a lot.

Drive on...... (Try EDM ...... you will like it/

 

This sounds interesting. Need more input is there any videos on how this thing works. Yet another way to skin a cat

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56 minutes ago, runaway parents said:

This sounds interesting. Need more input is there any videos on how this thing works. Yet another way to skin a cat

Hey Runaway......

Esentually EDM simply "sparks-away' the metal by precise placed Electro-Discharge ......

Not new but most folks don't know about the process.....

Very handy if you need a hole smaller than a human hair drilled into solid carbide......

Drive on.......(EDM......handy)

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Dolly, EDM is also really good at putting ports in barrels to reduce muzzle rise. It doesn't disturb the rifling by leaving a burr like a normal machining process would.

Edited by GeorgiaHybrid

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A tap burner is not quite a wire EDM.     I have an old Electro  Arc machine, they are great for removing the broken carbide drill in the broken E-Z out in the broken bolt.    Seems everybody starts with the most readily available means and go down the rabbit hole until there are no more ways to try.

 

E-Z outs are pretty good on 3/8+ bolts where you can drill clean through the bolt, blind holes or smaller sizes are less successful.     Welding a nut is a good option, wax when the bolt is still hot is a good idea too.     It makes sense to try and remove the bolt in place IF there is good access and a bit of work to remove the part.      Worst case you will have to find someone with a burner.

 

Steve

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I got the rest of the *^%&$$ bolt out.    Did the "weld a nut on" three times....got maybe a 1/2 turn out of it total.  At the point where the bolt was flush or below the surface of the cast pipe, drilling became my next step.

So, $35 for a Harbor Freight right angle air drill and off I went.  Did everything right, no broken bits.

I will have to put a Heli-Coil in as my drilling got into the minor thread diameter a little.

I used this thing call a screw remover to get the last bit of the ^%$^&^&*^ bolt out.  first time I used one of these but it worked good. Never gave me the feeling that is was going to get itself stuck in the hole.

I see this as a win since there are no broken off tools in the hole right now. 

bolt.jpg

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Update -  The threads in the cast pipe were fine.  A big win for me.

So, the reason I pulled the DPF out and cleaned it was regens seemed to be happening more often over the last two summer adventure seasons.

Based on the doser gasket, the doser function may have been the cause.....things may not have gotten hot enough to do a decent regen.

KzjZr4sl.jpg

Looks like the path for the 7th injector to put fuel in the exhaust path is almost blocked

JDOe13Ll.jpg

  

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