ABS controller for 1997 WIA.

[chief916]

So while we were down in S.C. picking up our TH from the Flying J. After they replaced our center axle....I just happened to mention that the drive back to Eastern Carolina was gonna be tough cause my cruise has not been working.  The shop foreman... Jeremy asked if I would mind him taking a look at it.  Help your self because I've had it looked at three times and no one can find out why it won't work.  He hooks his computer up to it using the JPRO professional diagnostics program and in less than ten minutes he tells me it's my ABS controller because it's showing 9 brake codes that won't clear.  That's the first I had heard of this.  He said shop around and find one around 200 to500.   So now I'm home and have spent the last several days trying to run a controller down but I tried the dealer and it was 1700.  And fleet pride was $1038.  I can't find any partnumbers on the one on the truck.  eBay has them from 50. Right up to 850.  I have no idea what a 30 series or a 16 or 17 is.  Can anyone of you all educate me on all this?  I get a headache trying to figure out what is compatible and what isn't.

Thanks

Ben

[Ronbo]

Call the dealer, give them your vin and they can give you the proper part nu,bee.

[Darryl&Rita]

Step 1, basic troubleshooting time. 

Is your truck singled? Was the extra axle wiring dealt with properly? Is this a new problem? 

Depending on the answers to above, follow Ron's advice. 

[DesertMiner]

Sensors.... did the tech furnish fault codes. The codes can tell you If it’s a sensor or not.  Why didn’t you have him fix it?

[chief916]

16 hours ago, Ronbo said:

Call the dealer, give them your vin and they can give you the proper part nu,bee.

I did call the dealer with the VIN number and he gave me the partno and a hefty price.  $1700.00.  most people who service big rigs for a living and not dealerships will look around for a better price.  So I've call Fleet Pride and the partno that I got from Volvo crossed to fleet pride number but was $1038.00.  that's a big difference between the two.  Still looking.

[chief916]

15 hours ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Step 1, basic troubleshooting time. 

Is your truck singled? Was the extra axle wiring dealt with properly? Is this a new problem? 

Depending on the answers to above, follow Ron's advice. 

Darryl the truck came singled from the factory and I only got the cruise to engage one time... after that...nothing.  Magnum trucking in Wilson NC. Spent almost 6 hrs trouble shooting and could not find which switch was closed using their computers.  Hintow trucking spent several hours running their diagnostics and they couldn't find it either with their snap on computer.  The flying J guys found something in ten minutes with their computer.  The reason I didn't get them to fix it was it was Saturday evening and getting late and they would have to try to find the controller.  Not prepared to spend 2 or 3 days at a truck stop waiting on parts.  The truck was drivable so figured I could find one on my own.

[chief916]

14 hours ago, DesertMiner said:

Sensors.... did the tech furnish fault codes. The codes can tell you If it’s a sensor or not.  Why didn’t you have him fix it?

DesertMiner  no fault codes where mentioned at least to me.  The first two  Tech's just said that there's a closed switch somewhere in the line and their computers where reading it that the brakes where engaged.  As for not having them fix the problem while at the truck stop...see my response to Darryl.

[GlennWest]

I had to change mine when I singled it. I just did a search on internet and got a used one. 400.00

 

[Darryl&Rita]

17 minutes ago, chief916 said:

Darryl the truck came singled from the factory and I only got the cruise to engage one time... after that...nothing.  Magnum trucking in Wilson NC. Spent almost 6 hrs trouble shooting and could not find which switch was closed using their computers.  Hintow trucking spent several hours running their diagnostics and they couldn't find it either with their snap on computer.  The flying J guys found something in ten minutes with their computer.  The reason I didn't get them to fix it was it was Saturday evening and getting late and they would have to try to find the controller.  Not prepared to spend 2 or 3 days at a truck stop waiting on parts.  The truck was drivable so figured I could find one on my own.

Now we're getting somewhere.

Factory single precludes any hillbilly sensor/wiring fixes. Worked once also indicates this. Cruise control typically relies on a switch on the clutch pedal, one in a brake pressure line, the switches on the dash (on/off and the set/resume switch). Be aware that the brake line switch isn't the same one that controls the brake lights. Clutch is Normally Closed, brake is NC, dash is closed in On position, and set/resume is usually momentary closed. My on/off switch acts up about once a year, and needs a spray of contact cleaner, along with a dozen cycles of on-off-on-off. This doesn't answer your original question, but it's cheaper.

[chief916]

On 5/9/2018 at 10:59 AM, Darryl&Rita said:

Now we're getting somewhere.

Factory single precludes any hillbilly sensor/wiring fixes. Worked once also indicates this. Cruise control typically relies on a switch on the clutch pedal, one in a brake pressure line, the switches on the dash (on/off and the set/resume switch). Be aware that the brake line switch isn't the same one that controls the brake lights. Clutch is Normally Closed, brake is NC, dash is closed in On position, and set/resume is usually momentary closed. My on/off switch acts up about once a year, and needs a spray of contact cleaner, along with a dozen cycles of on-off-on-off. This doesn't answer your original question, but it's cheaper.

Got the new abs controller in last night but didn't have time to ops check it.  I plan to test the system in about an hour.  OBTW...when I pulled the old unit and unplugged the wires.... several of the pins had corrosion all over them.  Cleaned the male pins with electrical cleaner and connected to the new controller.  Got a green light and 3 red lights so something's going on.  Keeping my fingers crossed.

[chief916]

5 hours ago, chief916 said:

Got the new abs controller in last night but didn't have time to ops check it.  I plan to test the system in about an hour.  OBTW...when I pulled the old unit and unplugged the wires.... several of the pins had corrosion all over them.  Cleaned the male pins with electrical cleaner and connected to the new controller.  Got a green light and 3 red lights so something's going on.  Keeping my fingers crossed.

Well shoot....got the cruise to engage one time and couldn't get it to release.  Shut it off and could not get it to come on..... tired of messing with this thing.  My tech still couldn't find the problem.  He thinks it might be in the ecm... recommend that I take to the Detroit guys in New Bern NC.  Gonna think on this cause the other tech at Magnum in Wilson spent a lot of time with me on this and didn't charge me.  He wanted to swap ecms out to see if that was the problem.  Will probably go back to him to give them a chance to rule out...or not...the ecm.  Bummer.

[DesertMiner]

I would have to ask myself.... self....so if it’s the ECM why did it work once?   A fluke?  What did I just do that was different from the last time I tried the cruise?  Anything else different this time?  So many parts play a part in letting the cruise work properly. On/ off switch, resume switch, brake switch, clutch switch, abs sensors, TCS sensors among other things. Does your Jake work?  What did I touch last?

[Darryl&Rita]

I'm leaning toward the "On/Off" switch more and more.

[DesertMiner]

6 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

I'm leaning toward the "On/Off" switch more and more.

🎯

[chief916]

6 hours ago, DesertMiner said:

I would have to ask myself.... self....so if it’s the ECM why did it work once?   A fluke?  What did I just do that was different from the last time I tried the cruise?  Anything else different this time?  So many parts play a part in letting the cruise work properly. On/ off switch, resume switch, brake switch, clutch switch, abs sensors, TCS sensors among other things. Does your Jake work?  What did I touch last?

DM....I had all these same questions that you just mentioned and honestly...I'm stumped.

[chief916]

5 hours ago, Darryl&Rita said:

I'm leaning toward the "On/Off" switch more and more.

Darryl...I went through and checked the switches and sprayed them up really good with electric cleaner.  The thing is that when I have the truck in ideal with the parking brake on I am able to engage the PTO to move the idel up and down and I can also do it using the buttons on the shifter but that's not the case once I push in the brake to release the brakes.  I'm gonna sleep on it and probably give the guys at Magnum another shot at this.  Least wise it will rule in or out if the ECM is the culprit.  Probably won't happen until this coming Monday.  Will let yo all know what happens.

Ben

[DesertMiner]

So 

5 minutes ago, chief916 said:

Darryl...I went through and checked the switches and sprayed them up really good with electric cleaner.  The thing is that when I have the truck in ideal with the parking brake on I am able to engage the PTO to move the idel up and down and I can also do it using the buttons on the shifter but that's not the case once I push in the brake to release the brakes.  I'm gonna sleep on it and probably give the guys at Magnum another shot at this.  Least wise it will rule in or out if the ECM is the culprit.  Probably won't happen until this coming Monday.  Will let yo all know what happens.

Ben

So the brake switch?  ...... have you been chasing air leaks lately? PTO woks so that might indicate the cruise on/ off button and resume button may be ok. Clutch and brake switches might be ok...  isn’t there a special procedure for activating cruise control on the earlier models of Volvo’s. 

[Darryl&Rita]

PTO? Do you mean the high idle, via the cruise control? That must kick off when the break pedal or clutch pedal is moved. Return the idle to normal before attempting to mesh the gears. Easier on the clutch brake. Some trucks also have an idle adjustment on the dash, but that is not cruise related. I wouldn't use it to raise RPM, because it interacts with the Jake function. Spraying contact cleaner isn't good enough. Either connect a meter to each switch and cycle it, or cycle like a mad man, hoping you eventually get lucky. 

[chief916]

3 minutes ago, DesertMiner said:

So 

So the brake switch?  ...... have you been chasing air leaks lately? PTO woks so that might indicate the cruise on/ off button and resume button may be ok. Clutch and brake switches might be ok...  isn’t there a special procedure for activating cruise control on the earlier models of Volvo’s. 

I don't know about a special procedure.

[DesertMiner]

On 5/9/2018 at 7:59 AM, Darryl&Rita said:

Cruise control typically relies on a switch on the clutch pedal, one in a brake pressure line, the switches on the dash (on/off and the set/resume switch). Be aware that the brake line switch isn't the same one that controls the brake lights. 

From earlier in the thread.....

[chief916]

5 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

PTO? Do you mean the high idle, via the cruise control? That must kick off when the break pedal or clutch pedal is moved. Return the idle to normal before attempting to mesh the gears. Easier on the clutch brake. Some trucks also have an idle adjustment on the dash, but that is not cruise related. I wouldn't use it to raise RPM, because it interacts with the Jake function. Spraying contact cleaner isn't good enough. Either connect a meter to each switch and cycle it, or cycle like a mad man, hoping you eventually get lucky. 

I don't have a Jake but I do use the cruise when parked to ideal up the rpms.  If I push in..release the service brake...the engine drops to ideal.

[chief916]

4 minutes ago, DesertMiner said:

From earlier in the thread.....

DM... I'll go back and recheck this again.  I'm sure this is something that's really stupidly simple going on here.

[DesertMiner]

Found this on another thread....

On my truck as the manual states, the system has to see a "brake functional safety test" each key cycle. It means the brakes have to be applied for 4 seconds after the truck is started or the cruise will not engage. On mine there is a switch on the clutch but not one on the brake pedal, it reads the brake signal from the air switch brake light circuit.

[DesertMiner]

Do you have a “trolly brake handle” ( manual trailer brake handle) make sure it is not “slightly” on” 

[chief916]

Yes sir....I do check the trolley brake.  A thought here...when I bought the rig the jackalope was already installed.   Thinking maybe something might have got crossed when the person wired it up.  I'm 3rd owner...I think....and I don't know all the history on what's been done.  Gonna take it in Monday and let Detroit figure it out.  More to follow.  Will keep you all posted.