NDBirdman Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 I put brand new brake assemblies, wheel bearings/races on my camper. I had better half hit the brake peddle before putting the newly turned brake drums back on. On both brakes, left side the magnet worked great, grabbed the screwdriver tight. Good, electro magnet works as advertised. Assembled left side including new LT tires. Right side, performed same routine. Only thing I noticed, both axles, the magnets also energized, good, but both had a buzz to them. I did not notice this on the left side. Any ideas why one side buzzes and the other does not? I looked at the wiring, each axle, ie front and back shared the same connection coming out of the camper so I would think if one side does it, so should the other side. Side to side, each pair of brakes are on the same wire. My reason for the completed change/re-do, the brakes/drums were a little worn, un-evenly. Also, when adjusting the brake controller in the cab going down the hiway, I noticed if I got too high on the numbers, the camper kinda oscillated fore/aft rapidly. I expected it to brake hard, but not shake us up. Is that normal when the adjustment is too high? We are planning to start using this camper in a few weeks, I'm just trying to get everything worked out before we start, rather do it in driveway than on hiway...LOL I expected it to need work done when we bout it, it is a 2002 model. Looks like new but is not new so picked it up willing to do necessary repairs. We plan on using this one for 2-3 years then sell/buy a new one when better half retires. :o) 2002 Fifth Avenue RV (RIP) 2015 Ram 3500 Mega-cab DRW(38k miles), 6.7L Cummins Diesel, A668RFE, 3.73, 14,000 GVWR, 5,630 Payload, 27,300 GCWR, 18,460 Max Trailer Weight Rating(For Sale) , living in the frigid north, ND. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat & Pete Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 51 minutes ago, NDBirdman said: I put brand new brake assemblies, wheel bearings/races on my camper. I had better half hit the brake peddle before putting the newly turned brake drums back on. On both brakes, left side the magnet worked great, grabbed the screwdriver tight. Good, electro magnet works as advertised. Assembled left side including new LT tires. Right side, performed same routine. Only thing I noticed, both axles, the magnets also energized, good, but both had a buzz to them. I did not notice this on the left side. Any ideas why one side buzzes and the other does not? I looked at the wiring, each axle, ie front and back shared the same connection coming out of the camper so I would think if one side does it, so should the other side. Side to side, each pair of brakes are on the same wire. I'm no expert , but , I'd disconnect any connections to the right side and insure a clean , scratch tight connection . Goes around , comes around . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 2 hours ago, NDBirdman said: Right side, performed same routine. Only thing I noticed, both axles, the magnets also energized, good, but both had a buzz to them. I did not notice this on the left side. Any ideas why one side buzzes and the other does not? I looked at the wiring, I am not a brake expert but I did make a living doing electrical/mechanical service and repairs for 40 years so have some experience with solenoids, which is what your brake magnets are. A buzz with a solenoid powered by AC electricity is not uncommon but with a DC powered one it should be repairable. It sounds like you have some sort of mechanical vibration that might be either under or over travel of the armature that is pulled in by the solenoid. I would look very closely at the mechanical actions and the travel of all parts. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 Hindsight. Disc upgrade not much more money and less trouble than electric. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Friz Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 On 4/19/2018 at 12:37 PM, GlennWest said: Hindsight. Disc upgrade not much more money and less trouble than electric. If you know of any place, please direct to to a Disc upgrade not much more money and less trouble than electric. I have not found a set of Discs less than $1000. I found a new Dexter set, Drums, for $160. I would very much like to upgrade to Discs. Thanks, friz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 Check out etrailer.com. that where mine came from. Good prices. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D&J Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 The buzzing isn't a problem, as soon as the magnets wear into the drums it will go away or get less noticeable. Denny Denny & Jami SKP#90175 Most Timing with Mac our Scottie, RIP Jasper our Westie 2013 F350 SC DRW 6.2 V8 4.30 Gears 2003 HH Premier 35FKTG Home Base Nebraska Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkman54 Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 I'm looking to do the same by upgrading to electric over hydraulic and disc brakes. Does anyone know of a place here in San Antonio? Is this a DIY job? Also, a recommendation of brands over another would help. Thanks Hawkman54 2013 Landmark 2002 Ford F450 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted February 26, 2019 Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 I did my own. Basically tear everything off the axle and bolt new on. Run brake lines. Mount your actuator. Bleed system of air. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NDBirdman Posted February 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 The new brakes worked great last summer. Wore in good, any previous braking problems went away. I just have to remember to jack-up each wheel and re-adjust before using again when the snow clears. We have not hit any mountainous areas, but if I were going to do alot of hilly terrain, I think I would put the elec. over hyd disks on. Was fairly easy to put the new assemblies on last spring. 2002 Fifth Avenue RV (RIP) 2015 Ram 3500 Mega-cab DRW(38k miles), 6.7L Cummins Diesel, A668RFE, 3.73, 14,000 GVWR, 5,630 Payload, 27,300 GCWR, 18,460 Max Trailer Weight Rating(For Sale) , living in the frigid north, ND. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray,IN Posted February 26, 2019 Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 The vast majority of electric brakes are wired inadequately IMO. The wiring is ran down one side of the trailer, where that sides brakes are wired to the main, then smaller (14ga) wiring is ran either inside the axle to the other side or taped to the outside of the axle to the other side; this can cause a voltage drop in the wiring to that side, which results in inadequate/unequal braking for that side. Ideally the main (10ga stranded) brake wire should be ran down the center of the trailer and each brake's wiring spliced to the main in the center of the trailer, using the same size(10ga) wire to all brakes. This method insures each brake circuit is of equal length, equal resistance, etc. High quality, water-proof crimp-type connections complete a great trailer brake wiring job. 2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos Posted February 26, 2019 Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 Each 7" brake uses just over 3 amps, and the larger 10-12" brakes use 4 amps. It would be useless to run #10 wire, particularly in the dual-run configuration. The idea that they get uneven power if wired down just one side is an interesting theory that I like. The rating on #14 wire in that situation is 15 amps, with the voltage drop over the ten feet across the axle being 0.21v. I'm not sure how to quantify that into braking differences. Using #10 results in a .08v drop. Total drop from the vehicle to each individual drum on a 25-ish foot trailer with dual runs would be .38 with #14 or .16 with #10. Self-sealing crimps and a GOOD crimp tool are critical, as you said. Crimping the self-sealing connectors with those thin crimpers breaks the waterproofing. Now I need to go check how my trailer is wired. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
packnrat Posted February 26, 2019 Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 wish people would type in english. gauge, voltage drop?? as long as i do not let out the magic smoke i know things keep working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos Posted February 26, 2019 Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 Hah! Well, there's a line there between smoke and poor operation... Ray made a good point and I'm going to inspect my trailer to see what they did. It's worth a look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NDBirdman Posted February 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 13 hours ago, Ray,IN said: The vast majority of electric brakes are wired inadequately IMO. The wiring is ran down one side of the trailer, where that sides brakes are wired to the main, then smaller (14ga) wiring is ran either inside the axle to the other side or taped to the outside of the axle to the other side; this can cause a voltage drop in the wiring to that side, which results in inadequate/unequal braking for that side. Interesting! This is how mine is wired... I wonder what would happen if I adjusted the right side one click more than the left? That's such a small difference I bet I would see/smell smoke on one side. Might be interesting if I just run new wiring, make both sides equal... hmmm, I think I'll keep a closer eye on my brake drum temps. I do have a point and shoot thermometer, and my wife couple days back shot down any trips I had planned between here and Seattle so flatland here we come... maybe.... grrrrr 2002 Fifth Avenue RV (RIP) 2015 Ram 3500 Mega-cab DRW(38k miles), 6.7L Cummins Diesel, A668RFE, 3.73, 14,000 GVWR, 5,630 Payload, 27,300 GCWR, 18,460 Max Trailer Weight Rating(For Sale) , living in the frigid north, ND. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos Posted February 26, 2019 Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 No, please definitely do not do that. Don't mess with one thing being "not quite right" by making yet another thing not right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NDBirdman Posted February 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 2 minutes ago, Carlos said: No, please definitely do not do that. Don't mess with one thing being "not quite right" by making yet another thing not right. Oh, I wouldn't worry about it, I am a mechanic and retired electronics guy. I do know the difference in shooting the breeze and shooting my foot off... LOL Don't worry, be happy. If I was seriously bothered by it, I would get out my meters and a new roll of wire. 🙂 2002 Fifth Avenue RV (RIP) 2015 Ram 3500 Mega-cab DRW(38k miles), 6.7L Cummins Diesel, A668RFE, 3.73, 14,000 GVWR, 5,630 Payload, 27,300 GCWR, 18,460 Max Trailer Weight Rating(For Sale) , living in the frigid north, ND. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randyretired Posted February 26, 2019 Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 I changed the wiring in our Teton, 3 axle setup to wiring down each side. It does brake a little straighter. It was a fairly easy change but messy due to the insulation. Randy 2001 Volvo VNL 42 Cummins ISX Autoshift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray,IN Posted March 3, 2019 Report Share Posted March 3, 2019 On 2/26/2019 at 1:38 PM, Randyretired said: I changed the wiring in our Teton, 3 axle setup to wiring down each side. It does brake a little straighter. It was a fairly easy change but messy due to the insulation. That is IMO, the ideal wiring configuration. Trailer builders always seem to use the most "cost effective" wiring method and cheapest wire connections, not the best. 2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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