Dryer... Gas or Electric?

[NoDirectionHome]

Looking for thoughts on a "real" dryer.  Not Splendide combo or separates.  I'll only use this in a campground so thinking 220VAC electric, but I'd like to hear contrasting opinions.  
Thanks in advance  -Steve

[TheLongWayHome]

From the other guy trying to find his way Home!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm in the middle of the same decision process. Biased toward 220VAC, rather than propane. Trying to go no propane in our rig!!  110VAC dryers are not very efficient, either do not drying well or quick.

So looking at Energy Star units:-

https://www.energystar.gov/most-efficient/me-certified-clothes-dryers/

https://www.energystar.gov/most-efficient/me-certified-clothes-washers/

 

 

[NoDirectionHome]

Same strategy here but I have a two burner propane cook top and the basement only furnace is propane.  Water heater is propane with small electric holding tank.

[Chalkie]

1 hour ago, NoDirectionHome said:

 Water heater is propane with small electric holding tank.

This is interesting. What kind of water heater is this? The hot water on my rig is either propane or electric (or both for faster recovery) and is 12 gallons no matter what.

As to your original question, I would opt for electric (220v) having been exposed to electric, natural gas and propane. The electric always seemed to dry clothes faster.

 

[NoDirectionHome]

Small residential boiler.

[Yarome]

I would agree with electric. Just to be aware... 220v may not always be available, or rather, your CG choices may be slightly less abudant. 120v dryers "do" take about forever but another strategy might be to use a spin dryer coming out of the eggbeater to dramatically reduce drying time in the tumbler. Of course... that would save drying time and electricity in a 220v unit as well.

[oldjohnt]

15 hours ago, NoDirectionHome said:

I'll only use this in a campground so thinking 220VAC electric,

    Steve, if I had my druthers and iffffffffffffff 220 VAC was "readily" available in BOTH the RV pedestal (usually so if a 50 amp) plus your RV, Id recommend it over a 110 VAC dryer. A four pin (L1, L2, N, G)  50 amp RV pedestal receptacle has 220 right there L1 to L2, but typically there's no handy 220 VAC Receptacle in the RV. Of course its possible to wire a 220 VAC circuit and receptacle in your 50 amp RV if needed. Obviously you could ONLY use the 220 VAC dryer if the park had a suitable service.  

 YES a "real" 220 VAC dryer would be my choice if the voltage and current are available.

John T 

[Jack Mayer]

First:   a quality separate washer/dryer combo run on 120 volt does an adequate job both washing and drying. Anyone stating a 120-volt dryer does not dry well has not owned one.  They dry very well. They just take longer, as would be expected.  I've had GE, Splendide, and one other (can't remember) - they all worked well.

Second: a 240-volt dryer MAY challenge an RV site to supply enough power. Even a 50 amp site. It just depends on what else you are dong. Imagine two-three rooftop air conditioners running AND cooking with a convection microwave, AND wanting to dry clothes. That is not going to happen. At least not for long  The point is that the power supply is sketchy at best if not managed. You can manage it manually, or you can put in an automated power management system. Just be aware that a power management system adds additional cost complexity and service needs. 

A (full size) gas dryer is a  reasonable alternative if you have propane. I've considered having propane on board JUST for the gas dryer. But I'd rather be all electric since I otherwise do not need propane (everything is diesel or electric). But there are realities that must be faced, and compromises that must be made in an RV.

[Chad Heiser]

We went with a 240 volt electric dryer in our rig from Splendid.  We also went with a 240 volt capable Onan 6500 watt generator for those times when we needed the dryer, but didn’t have 50 amp service.  (I just used the dryer on the generator last week while at NASCAR in Las Vegas.). It has been a good combination so far, but we are not full time so honestly the washer and dryer don’t get used that often in our current style of travel.

[NoDirectionHome]

Seems the heating element is ~5.3kW on high, so @ 25 amps @ 220V it seems easily manageable. 

[oldjohnt]

16 hours ago, NoDirectionHome said:

Seems the heating element is ~5.3kW on high, so @ 25 amps @ 220V it seems easily manageable.

FWIW I Agree it's manageable on a 220/240 volt system, and as a retired power distribution engineer Id prefer a 240 versus a 120 volt dryer, provided you have suitable service and electrical distribution. NOTE I'm NOT saying some 120 volt units cant do fine in many RV's.  

If you have good solid reliable full 240 volt 50 amp service (no sags or low voltage etc etc as in a poor designed or overloaded RV park) that's 12,000 watts so running AC and a dryer all at the same time should be okay BUT NO WARRANTY AS IT DEPENDS ON LOADS AND AVAILABLE ELECTRICAL SERVICE. 

Shop around and look at detailed specs, do your homework, insure the RV has adequate energy and distribution then make your own decision.

John T

[NoDirectionHome]

Thanks for the affirmation John.  As a mechanical engineer, I closely follow RandyA and your responses to electrical issues and look forward to meeting both of you to share and give back some of what you've helped me understand.  Regards -Steve

[TheLongWayHome]

On 3/9/2018 at 3:56 PM, NoDirectionHome said:

Same strategy here but I have a two burner propane cook top and the basement only furnace is propane.  Water heater is propane with small electric holding tank.

There are also alternative to propane stove tops and furnaces. Could go all electric, but that would severely limit your flexibility and also push against any supply (shore power, generator, or battery/inverter) availability (power source and RV electrical distribution system), as others have stated.

So, if you want to drop the propane and also not go all electrical, then you need to have another energy source fuel (some alternative for RVs). As Jack stated, that is probably diesel. But you then have to store/carry diesel somewhere. I'm assuming this setup it toward a full-time on the move system. Most of the international expedition vehicles (RVs of steroids - European: https://www.unicat.net/en/individual.php, US: http://globalxvehicles.com/) use diesel and electrical with solar as their power sources. But they move a lot and go places with limited fuel sources.

Stove tops could be diesel (no flame), but more popular on the RV front are inductive stove tops. Much more efficient that propane and don't put extra heat and moisture into the RV. Downside, is that they need to be considered as part of the electrical load and they are still a bit expensive, but decreasing. You could also get a portable counter top single burner inductive cooktop to add flexibility to your current propane system or to try it out.  

You can also get diesel boiler/furnaces and even add an electrical element as a backup source.

But to consider all these options you are probably doing a massive RV infrastructure change or a custom build.

Food for thought.

[oldjohnt]

53 minutes ago, NoDirectionHome said:

As a mechanical engineer, I closely follow RandyA and your responses to electrical issues and look forward to meeting both of you to share and give back some of what you've helped me understand

THANKS STEVE< Id enjoy meeting you as well as any of the fine gents here who have helped me so much. However, I don't visit the Southwest as much as some of you and usually base in Florida much of the winter for antique tractors shows and bluegrass festivals. I may go to Texas in the fall to see my favorite daughter but haven't had the opportunity to do the Quartzsite area, maybe next time.

 John T

[Jack Mayer]

If the dryer is truly only using 25 amps a leg then that would probably work fine, with a little caution, on 50 amp service. The ones I've seen use 30 amps and up. But actual measurements would be interesting

[bigbillsd]

My 7500 genny doesn't appear to put out 240 volts based on my wanting to hook my MH up my house as backup power.  So I guess a 240 dryer would be useless if boondocking or at a campground with just 30amp.     -Bill

[oldjohnt]

17 minutes ago, bigbillsd said:

My 7500 genny doesn't appear to put out 240 volts based on my wanting to hook my MH up my house as backup power.  So I guess a 240 dryer would be useless if boondocking or at a campground with just 30amp.

Yeppers a 30 amp RV service is 120 volts ONLY no 240 present. I cant speak to your 7500 genny as far as its output voltage. A large unit designed for a 50 amp RV could have BOTH 120 and 240 just like at a 50 amp RV pedestal. It would have L1 Hot, L2 Hot, and Neutral and Ground, and it's 240 L1 to L2 (L1 or L2 to Neutral = 120 volts), sure you're looking at the right places????

If you want to use it as backup emergency home power (once you get or have the right voltage etc) I recommend a proper transfer arrangement for safety and assuming your transfer method includes Neutral switching I would configure the Genset as a Bonded versus a floating system which it may already be.

John T

[bigbillsd]

Yup,  already had the electrician out and put a genny input outlet in the garage with a interlock kit.  Building inspector passed it, I had checked with them prior to determining what was needed.  No need for a transfer switch.

It was put in for another genny I had.  Once i got the MH last year I determined to figure out how to wire it to power the house as it has close to 150 gallons of Diesel readily available. That's when I found it it didn't do 240.   Seemed very odd to me but Onan confirmed it.  I could still hook it up to both sides but would need to lock out any 240 breaker.   I haven't proceeded.. will probably wait till there is a black out..

 

 

 

[Bill Joyce]

From my view going though all the hassle and expense of rewiring for a 240 volt dryer seems like overkill for something that is probably a "like to have", instead of a necessity.   Plus, it won't work in so many places.  There are campgrounds with no 50AMP available, so you are limited to those that have it.  As was mentioned, many built-in generators for 50AMP RVs do not provide 240 volt, only two legs of 120 volt.  Some campground pedestals are wired incorrectly and only provide two legs of 120 volt, which has burned a couple bus conversion folks with 240 volt stoves.  Those pedestals can go for years without anyone noticing, since most 50AMP RVs only need 120 volt.  

[oldjohnt]

17 hours ago, bigbillsd said:

Yup,  already had the electrician out and put a genny input outlet in the garage with a interlock kit.  Building inspector passed it, I had checked with them prior to determining what was needed.  No need for a transfer switch.

Good news, Indeed a proper installed so called "interlock kit" serves the same safety purpose of a separate stand alone Transfer Switch and is much cheaper yayyyyyyyyyyyyy you done good. An even cheaper version in an RV is when there's a generator fed outlet where the power cord is stored and you plug directly into it.

It's sounding like your genset just has 120 so you're stuck with it and it cant run a 240 volt dryer grrrrrrrrrrr

Still ifffffffffff ?? the RV pedestal has proper and adequate  50 amp 120/240 volt service and you have the correct distribution panel its cheap n easy to wire up a 240 volt dryer outlet, piece of cake.

Your RV, your money your decision, go for it

 

John T 

[Bill w/bus]

We voted for a gas dryer. Uses very little propane/butane. Requires 102VAC. Eliminates the need to wire for 240VAC for the appliance only.  We have done washing and drying on the road knowing that we would be in a campground that night.

Good luck

Bill

[ALLOY]

 Where does the reluctance to use propane come from?  Maybe gas refrigerators, but if that appliance is dealt with I would think wiring/batteries and brake fires contribute more to the number than propane does.

 

 

[Yarome]

6 minutes ago, ALLOY said:

 Where does the reluctance to use propane come from? 

In terms of a clothing dryer? Likely, initial cost, ease of installation, low maintanence requirements and convenience to name a few. LP dryers cost more, require additional cost for installation and it's more convenient to plug into a pedestal for electric than filling LP tanks.

I get where you're coming from though. LP dryers do their job much quicker, can be operated any time or any where and operating one on LP is approx. half the cost of electricty. If you're paying for your electric hook-up that is.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

How much LP does a gas dryer use for drying a heavy load?  Worst case scenario.... 6 pairs of jeans and a few towels?

Without having a large motorhome style built in tank, is it feasible on 30# or 40# cylinders?

[ALLOY]

1 hour ago, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said:

How much LP does a gas dryer use for drying a heavy load?  Worst case scenario.... 6 pairs of jeans and a few towels?

Without having a large motorhome style built in tank, is it feasible on 30# or 40# cylinders?

Info I found said a dryer is 40k btu/hr. Also said the line cannot be smaller than 1/2"

Propane has 21k btu/lb.

Instead of making the 30' run up to the front of our 5th my though is to run a 3' or 4' Class 3 propane hose outside with a QD (BBQ hook up) that can be hooked up to our onboard tank or a bottle with a Class 2 hose. Inside there would be a propane alarm that controls a 12V solenoid.