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How do you replace the clutch return spring on a Peterbilt 379?


mr. cob

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Howdy All,

The weather in a word here has been MISERABLE, quite cold for this area, the usual rain and here lately freezing ice and snow.  I have been doing what I can on the Pete getting ready to eventually drive over to Scrap, Brian's home and do some wiring.  I noticed the last time I started the Pete, that I couldn't raise the idle during warmup, I noticed that when I drove the truck home after getting the commercial hitch removed the Jake brake didn't work.  It was a couple of days ago when I started the truck I noticed that there wasn't any free travel in the clutch pedal, the pedal was firm right at the top and the pedal sat about an inch and a half lower then it normally did.

So I started working the net trying to figure out if any of these things were related, it turns out that they ARE.  What I found was that the clutch return spring had broken, this is a simple spring you could probably get at a good hardware store the problem is you can't even see the darn thing from under the truck.  I can see the end that is attached to the frame but I can't see the linkage that the other end attaches to.  With this spring being broken, it allows the pedal to drop, this in turn actives the clutch safety switch which turns off the Jake brakes and the cruise control.  I proved this by starting the truck and then putting my foot under the pedal, pulled the pedal up with my foot and the cruise control worked to increase idle speed.

So I thought I had the problem figured out, well I was right about the clutch return spring but then another problem caused the same thing to happen, it turns out that the plunger that activates the air brake when you push down on the brake pedal was sticking.  So again I started looking on the net and found that this was a common problem on the Peterbilt's.  So I took the brake pedal out, pulled the plunger out of it's casting, cleaned everything up and it now works just like a new one.

But that still leaves me with replacing that darn clutch return spring, I have exhausted every thing I can think of on the net;  tried youtube nothing, tried the resource guide nothing, looked at every Peterbilt, site I could find nothing, the only thing I did find was where one driver said that to replace his he had to remove the air tank that is bolted to the back of the battery box.  I had a heck of a time getting under the truck to take a look in that area and I'll be darned if I can see where removing that air tank would allow access to that area but it might.  I'll have to wait until the slush melts before I can tackle that job.  In the meantime if anyone can offer any guidance how to replace that darn spring I sure would appreciate it THANKS.

Dave 

2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types.  Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/

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Can you rig a bungee cord to hold the pedal up? If you can, you should still be able to depress said pedal and, when you take your foot off, the bungee cord would again lift the pedal. I realize this is a Rube Goldberg patch but, I don't expect you'll be driving much that way.

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6 minutes ago, jkoenig24 said:

Can you rig a bungee cord to hold the pedal up? If you can, you should still be able to depress said pedal and, when you take your foot off, the bungee cord would again lift the pedal. I realize this is a Rube Goldberg patch but, I don't expect you'll be driving much that way.

Howdy jkoenig24,

The clutch pedal on this model Pete, goes DOWN through the floor, there really is on way to rig a bungee cord to it. 

However I once had a 55 Pontiac that had a broken spring, it's brake pedal also went down through the floor, I took one of those tapered springs out of an old bed spring and screwed that over the brake pedal so that the small end of the spring was under the pedal and the wide end on the floor, drove that car for year before the engine died, being young and broke it was the best I could do at the time.

Dave

2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types.  Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/

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10 minutes ago, Padraic said:

Yours is Pete, I saw this youtube video on clutch Volvo spring replacement. Is it the same issue in your case? This looks easy.

Howdy Padraic,

If ONLY it were that easy.  I can't even see the clutch linkage let alone the spring.

Dave

2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types.  Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/

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Howdy Dave - suggest you head over to Western Peterbilt and ask the Parts dept to open up a diagram for you. You can find out where the mystery attachment point is. They also might have the spring you need. 

Over

"Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. 

 

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55 minutes ago, noteven said:

Howdy Dave - suggest you head over to Western Peterbilt and ask the Parts dept to open up a diagram for you. You can find out where the mystery attachment point is. They also might have the spring you need. 

Over

Howdy noteven,

I am getting to know the folks at the Marysville store quite well.  I have the drawing I'll see if I can post it here.  They have the spring, 22 bucks, that's not the problem, installing it is.

fullsizeoutput_3042-L.jpg

It's part number "12" in the drawing,  However be advised from under the truck you CAN'T see any of this assembly, seriously I have never seen so many pieces to a clutch linkage setup that for all practical purposes is impossible to get at.

Dave

 

2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types.  Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/

IMG_4282-600x310.jpg

 

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4 minutes ago, noteven said:

That anchor bracket for the spring must be on the underside of the cab floor above the transmission...?

That triangle tab the end of the spring attaches to didn’t come off the main bracket so it be missing? 

 

4 minutes ago, noteven said:

That anchor bracket for the spring must be on the underside of the cab floor above the transmission...?

That triangle tab the end of the spring attaches to didn’t come off the main bracket so it be missing? 

Howdy noteven,

There is a channel that holds all of the pivot levers, the distance between that channel and the drivers side frame rail is about 3 inches.  The spring is attached to the triangle tab bolted to the bottom of a cross channel, the other end of the spring is attached to the rear pivot lever part number "9".  ALL of these parts are located under the floor and in-between the frame rail and a channel that supports the underside of the floor.  There is no removable floor panel above these parts.  If a person had to replace any of the main clutch linkage parts the only way I can see even getting to them would be to remove the transmission.  This is without a doubt the worst designed clutch linkage system I have ever seen when it comes serviceability.

Dave

2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types.  Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/

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Dave,  at the risk of being labeled a hill billy, I'm going to suggest you attach one end of the spring to the linkage as intended, then use some good wire (baling wire comes to mind) to extend the spring to a good attachment point.  Electric fence wire is even better, as it's plated and won't rust as quickly.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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Can't believe its no different than my 359. You can see the spring just standing beside truck. Goes from the channel that goes from one side to other that the braces that hold the panels behind fenders. The other end hooks to another tab on the threaded rod that goes to the clutch pedal arm. The only thing the spring is doing is raising the pedal the 1/2" or so taking up the free travel and engaging the Jake brake switch. If you did have Jakes could live without it.

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10 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Dave,  at the risk of being labeled a hill billy, I'm going to suggest you attach one end of the spring to the linkage as intended, then use some good wire (baling wire comes to mind) to extend the spring to a good attachment point.  Electric fence wire is even better, as it's plated and won't rust as quickly.

Howdy rickeieio,

Hillbilly ya say, well I am a stump jumper from the hinterland of northern Minnesota, I have probably used bailing wire to fix more stuff then Red Green has used duct tape. :lol:

Seriously, if I can figure out how to get that spring on the end of the clutch linkage I will use good strong wire to stretch it and secure it someplace where its easy to attach.  The spring broke where it hooks onto the linkage, the end just snapped off.

Dave

2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types.  Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/

IMG_4282-600x310.jpg

 

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16 minutes ago, beemergary said:

Can't believe its no different than my 359. You can see the spring just standing beside truck. Goes from the channel that goes from one side to other that the braces that hold the panels behind fenders. The other end hooks to another tab on the threaded rod that goes to the clutch pedal arm. The only thing the spring is doing is raising the pedal the 1/2" or so taking up the free travel and engaging the Jake brake switch. If you did have Jakes could live without it.

Howdy beemergary,

I am serious, you can't see the spring or the linkage.  I have the drawing, I can see how everything works, it's just impossible to get at.  Without holding the pedal in the free travel position I don't have jake brake or cruise control, I drive long distances, I cross mountain ranges, I need both systems to work.

Dave

2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types.  Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/

IMG_4282-600x310.jpg

 

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18 minutes ago, noteven said:

I have an endoscope that we could see up there with to use a reverse grapple flugen and cuss words to fish the end of the spring inta place...

except it’s here in San Diego cty :(

Howdy noteven,

If I had joined the Navy instead of the Army I might know the proper swear words to use in such situations, as it is I can't quite picture how an application of C4 will suffice in this endeavor.

Dave

2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types.  Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/

IMG_4282-600x310.jpg

 

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2 minutes ago, mr. cob said:

Howdy beemergary,

I am serious, you can't see the spring or the linkage.  I have the drawing, I can see how everything works, it's just impossible to get at.  Without holding the pedal in the free travel position I don't have jake brake or cruise control, I drive long distances, I cross mountain ranges, I need both systems to work.

Dave

Somebody at Peterbilt must of had a better idea. Yea Right..Thought maybe the spring had broke and couldn't figure out where it went also. There's a wooden floor under mine that comes out but lots of bolts and have to remove carpet. I just did a clutch adjustment this week and removed my spring. 20 min. job. You can just remove my spring by hand. Good Luck

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