MartinDR Posted February 7, 2018 Report Share Posted February 7, 2018 Had a power surge . It took out the microwave and the fridge won t work on anything. The panel lights up nut no cooling. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devilishjim Posted February 7, 2018 Report Share Posted February 7, 2018 micro and fridg on same circuit. Did you switch to propane / check the outlet for power above the micro ? Jim Spence 2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB BD exhaust brake, 6 spd manual trans 34CKTS Cedar Creek 5er, Trail-Air hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinDR Posted February 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2018 Yes. Outletshave 120 volts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devilishjim Posted February 8, 2018 Report Share Posted February 8, 2018 Micro to my recollection has a slow burn fuse inside the back... Is the fridg set to auto so that it switches to propane if the power is not available ? and if it did does the display showing its on gas ? Jim Spence 2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB BD exhaust brake, 6 spd manual trans 34CKTS Cedar Creek 5er, Trail-Air hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted February 8, 2018 Report Share Posted February 8, 2018 Welcome to the Escapee forums! We could probably be of more help if we knew exactly what model refrigerator you have. 14 hours ago, MartinDR said: Had a power surge . It took out the microwave and the fridge won t work on anything. The panel lights up nut no cooling. Any ideas? The first thing to check is the circuit breaker on the 120V-AC power distribution panel. It might be open if the two devices are supplied by the same breaker. Your refrigerator uses 12V-DC power for the refrigerator controls whether using propane or 120V-AC. There is also a 5a fuse on the main circuit board of the refrigerator that protects the 120V heating element which could be open. It also has a 3a fuse for 12V but if that were open you would not have display lights. Are you saying that the refrigerator does not cool on propane either? Is the control set to auto and 120V selected or have you tried selecting propane at the control panel? If you visit Bryant RV Service you can probably find a copy of the service manual for your refrigerator and download a copy of it. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinDR Posted February 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2018 Update: The horizontal 5 amp fuse was blown in the lower control unit. Replaced it and still no cooling on automatic. Switch to gas and itcwill light and burn on for a few seconds. Then check light comes on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 4 hours ago, MartinDR said: Then check light comes on I suspect that you have a problem in your electronics. Best guess is the main circuit board since the fuse was blown. Since your converter would have seen the voltage surge on the 120V line it probably sent a shore surge through the 12V system as well. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinDR Posted February 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 Thank you for all yalls help. It actually took out the inverter too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 In that case, any of your 12V equipment that had power is suspect. I suggest that if you have not done so, test your water heater and furnace as well and probably the water pump too. May want to check any lights that could have been on as well. The converter probably pushed out a big voltage spike as it died. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devilishjim Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 Kirk Whee do you start on this type of repair. Would insurance cover this type of damage ? Jim Spence 2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB BD exhaust brake, 6 spd manual trans 34CKTS Cedar Creek 5er, Trail-Air hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 36 minutes ago, Devilishjim said: Whee do you start on this type of repair. I'd remove shore power, make sure that the battery is up and test all 12V appliances. Restore shore power and then check the converter and if it is destroyed, unplug it as most have a standard power plug. Then test all other 120V equipment. If the surge was a bad one you will have major problems. I have seen them get a TV that was plugged in but turned off. It just depends on how high the voltage surge was and how lucky the owner was. It is the reason that so many of us buy either a Surge Guard or a Progressive EMS. 40 minutes ago, Devilishjim said: Would insurance cover this type of damage ? Just depends on the insurance. Most times they at least try to avoid paying for it. A lot depends on the fine print of the policy. I have known two owners with really bad cases of power surges and one was covered and the other was not. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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