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I have an Atwood water heater propane/electric GC6AA-10E. I'm not receiving a light on the display panel and the electric ignition doesn't work but the propane does. I've changed the ECO & TSTAT sensors. Still I get no panel light inside or electric ignition, only propane ignition. Anyone have an idea what my problem may be?

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First of all, there's not an electric ignition and a propane ignition.  If the propane is igniting without you putting a match to it, then it has electronic ignition which is working properly.  When you switch the water heater on using the lighted switch, the light will only come on long enough for propane ignition, then will go off again and the propane will continue to burn and heat the water.

There is a separate switch on the outside unit for electric operation.  Most RV manufacturers will also place another switch inside for electric operation and just leave the one on the water heater switched on all the time.  The inside switch will probably just be a typical 110 volt wall switch.  But again, it will be separate from the lighted propane switch.  If the inside and outside switches are both on and the water won't heat on electric power, then it's possible the electric coil inside the water heater is burned out, very common because people turn it on with no water in the tank.

Hope this helps.

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Welcome to the Escapee forums! You might get more and/or better responses if this were posted to the technical forum, but I'll give it a shot and perhaps others will see it also.

The GC6AA-10E is 6 gal. electronic gas combo, meaning that it has both propane and electric heating elements. The light with the on/off switch should come on briefly each time that the propane is ignited, then go back off after it is burning. When using the electric element that light does not light. It is not an indication that the water heater is working but rather it indicates that it has called for heat and the propane is not burning. 

If we have misunderstood what you are asking, by all means, come back and give us more information and we will be happy to try again to help. 

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8 hours ago, grnberet18f said:

It doesn't ignite anymore if only the electric is selected.

I assume that you mean the water does not get hot? Are you sure that you have the 120V side turned on and operating? I am familiar with a lot of Atwood water heaters but have never troubleshot the 120V side of the model that you have. Looking at the service manual and the related parts breakdown(page 37), it looks like you have a single, 2 position switch that controls both the propane and the 120V side via a 12V/120V relay. I would expect that switch to have 2 positions, but can't tell for sure. The schematic(page 25) sure looks that way. But it also looks like there is a 120V, service switch in the back near the location of the screw in heating element that if off would prevent it from heating. The switch I am speaking of is either #19 or #23 on the parts breakdown. I do not see that switch on the schematic but I do know that some models do have it. If it is there it will be in the rear of the water heater.

f you have a voltmeter, check to see if there is 120V to the water heater first, then if there is none check the circuit breaker that supplies it. I would open it and close it again just to be sure. The schematic does not show a fuse in the 120V side but I would check just to make sure. It could also be an open heating element and you will need access to the rear of the water heater to check that also. 

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Whew! I'm not much of a DIYer but I did understand much of it. I have individual switches on my inside panel for propane and electric. I tried to send a photo but it was too big. I will check for 120v and the breaker. 

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Simple test; turn off the propane side, turn on electric side. IF you get hot water the 120VAC electric heater works as designed. Turn off everything and allow water heater to cool down. Turn off 120VAC electric switch, turn on propane switch. If you get hot water again both heat sources work as designed.

If either test doesn't get hot water, use the service manual Kirk linked for you.

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14 hours ago, grnberet18f said:

I have individual switches on my inside panel for propane and electric. I tried to send a photo but it was too big.

The extra switch that I am wondering about is a service switch that could be located on the back of the water heater or inside of the access door and is there for safety when servicing it. That switch will prevent power from reaching the heating element even if it should be turned on when a tech is working on it. 

Suburban-SW6DE-New-Switch-Installed.jpg

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1 hour ago, Kirk Wood said:

The extra switch that I am wondering about is a service switch that could be located on the back of the water heater or inside of the access door and is there for safety when servicing it. That switch will prevent power from reaching the heating element even if it should be turned on when a tech is working on it. 

Suburban-SW6DE-New-Switch-Installed.jpg

If I'm reading correctly, in the second paragraph of the manual you and I linked to, that switch was done away with in 2003.  Since we don't know what year model the OP is dealing with, he/she may or may not have that switch.

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7 hours ago, chirakawa said:

If I'm reading correctly, in the second paragraph of the manual you and I linked to, that switch was done away with in 2003.

I didn't see that but you could be right. It sure wouldn't hurt to look through as you can see it if there and to take meter readings you need to get access to the areas where it could be. 

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On 12/29/2017 at 4:55 PM, Kirk Wood said:

I didn't see that but you could be right. It sure wouldn't hurt to look through as you can see it if there and to take meter readings you need to get access to the areas where it could be. 

Second paragraph.

"In 2003, Atwood relocated the Switch, Thermostat and ECO that was installed on the
back of combination 6 and 10 gallon Gas/Electric Water Heaters. A double switch is
now located inside the RV for convenience and a joint ECO and T-Stat is located on
the gas side of the water heater. This leaves only the relay and heating element on the
backside of the water heater."

 

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I have the double switch on the inside of my motorhome with a pilot light out indicator (red light). I'm conducting the 120v test with the multimeter today. 

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Oh, I forgot to thank everyone who responded. This has been very informative. As a retired green beret I'e learned many things. RV repairs wasn't one of them 😉

Thank you

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