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mr. cob

Rounding up parts to build the Smart Car, deck, info needed.

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Howdy All,

I have tried searching for this information, as my computer skills are next to nonexistent I have not had much luck. 

I have my future Smart Car, deck pretty much figured out THANKS to all who have posted photos and offered suggestions.  What I don't have figured out is how to attach wheel chalks, I would like to have them EASILY installed and removable for a clear deck top and what to use to tie the car down.  I have seen photos of wheel chalks with what looks like little build in winches but have no idea what such an item is called.  Is a single strap used over the tire or is there some kind of net that goes over the tire to hold the car in place?  Any information, especially photos or links to particular products will be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

Dave

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Dave, if you go to the search bar (upper right hand corner) and put in "wheel chocks" or "tire baskets" or "smart car tie down" you should have enough reading to keep you busy for a couple of minutes.

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6 minutes ago, Mntom said:

Dave, if you go to the search bar (upper right hand corner) and put in "wheel chocks" or "tire baskets" or "smart car tie down" you should have enough reading to keep you busy for a couple of minutes.

Howdy Tom,

Thanks, I'll give that a try, I never seem to pick the right words when doing a search, if I knew what I was talking about or asking information on it would help.:wacko:

Dave

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Send me an e-mail and I'll provide a bunch of pics and other relevant info.  There are reasons things are done a certain way which doing this cold may not come to mind.

Jack may have some of this truck build 1 before mine by Herrin in Texas.

Old Gen 1 car chocks, ones with winches, tire cages, ramp bolt holes and plates welded to the bottom of the original chocks to space them further out over the side of the truck deck to allow for the longer Gen 3.

Or do you want them posted to this topic/post?

 

Roger

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1 minute ago, rdickinson said:

Send me an e-mail and I'll provide a bunch of pics and other relevant info.  There are reasons things are done a certain way which doing this cold may not come to mind.

Jack may have some of this truck build 1 before mine by Herrin in Texas.

Old Gen 1 car chocks, ones with winches, tire cages, ramp bolt holes and plates welded to the bottom of the original chocks to space them further out over the side of the truck deck to allow for the longer Gen 3.

Or do you want them posted to this topic/post?

 

Roger

Howdy Roger,

I'll send you an email and you can send the information to me, but if you don't mind could you also post it to this thread, I am sure I am not the only one who could benefit form your information.  Thanks.

Dave

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I got my straps from Harbor freight. I had to modify them though. In hind sight I would buy adjustable tire straps. You look closely and you can see stitching in it.

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3 minutes ago, runaway parents said:

Go to us cargo controle.com  they have the 2 inch strap winch's you are looking for keep in mind you will need a left hand one and a right hand one.

Thank you. I got mine from there and was racking my brain trying to remember url

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I bought tire baskets from DC cargo mall.

 Iuse baskets on front wheels and straps on rear wheels.

The bed was built for a 351 smart4two, and now we have a 353. This is the reasno for the different tie down method.

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This is what I use to secure my vehicles to our car trailer (I know its different than what you are looking for but...)

 

http://www.truckntow.com/auto-hauler-supply/car-hauler-straps/vulcan-silver-series-flat-bed-side-rail-tie-down-with-flat-hook.html

 

Here is a link to all of their autohauler supplies:

 

http://www.truckntow.com/auto-hauler-supply.html

 

As an aside these guys have excellent customer service...when I received my order one of the 4 straps was slightly different (but still fully functional)  and when I contacted them they exchanged it no problem and shipped the replacement quickly.

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Some of these have been posted before for Alan043

Z0vV4r0l.jpg

pic above is of stock chock as it came from Herrin in Texas after an extension plate was added to the bottom to allow the chock to stand off the side of the truck deck due to the longer Gen 3.

Slots are wider than bolts which are 3/4" cap screws, grade 8 or 5.  A close up of the head will tell.  The slots allow for adjustment in placement of the car and the wider slots allow for twisting the chock if the car gets loaded crooked.  Keep the bolts well lubed.  3 of mine got cross threaded by a helper the first time they went in and I've been fighting that for 4 or 5 yrs.

This pic shows old deck tiedowns.  They were welded in deck cutouts.  Also they were behind or in front of the wheel.  These particular rings don't flip over all the way and unless you remember to flip them down, the wheel wants to jump over an up turned tiedown,...not good.  It was generally too late by the time i realized what was happening.

The new tiedowns are in a track slightly off to the side and allow flexibility in positioning of tiedowns.

If you bolt down a single point like Glenn's or my track, put fender washers under or a pce of flat bar.

Gen 1 wheels are 22" diameter, Gen 3's are 24".  An upholstery shop can do modification if required, no problem.

satwmQTl.jpg

Second pic shows added on deck plate plus tape showing ht.

https://i.imgur.com/CBn1986l.jpg[/IMG

Back of stock chock before mods.  1 -1/8 nut on left.  This particular chock with the tightening nut on the left goes to the left side of the car.  If you get them reversed, the nut is under the front air dam and leaves little room to swing the ratchet without hitting the deck and underside of the car.

The brass colored U shaped piece is the chock release.  Just push it forward and free spool.

The air dam misses the top of the chock.  No problem there.

]3dWdRXCl.jpg

Front view of chock with added on plate.

I'll hunt for more pics

 

 

 

Edited by rdickinson

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bBbztYjl.jpg

Ramp and chocks use same bolt holes.  If you line ramps up perpendicular to the deck and use 2 bolts for each ramp or chock you won't need to measure the ramps at the bottom.  The bolts automatically do that for you..

I have a ball valve with a 1/4" air fitting on the trailer brake line so I use an air ratchet  with a short socket.  Long one won't let me get the socket off when bolt has been spun out.  Or use offset ratcheting box shown in the rear of the photo.

The deck needs to have backing plate, under bolt holes...mine has .5"

One thing which may differ from one truck to another is the net deck width...this will alter things a bit but he overall plan will be the same.

Are you going to winch it or drive it on?

 

R

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3 minutes ago, rdickinson said:

bBbztYjl.jpg

Ramp and chocks use same bolt holes.  If you line ramps up perpendicular to the deck and use 2 bolts for each ramp or chock you won't need to measure the ramps at the bottom.  The bolts automatically do that for you..

I have a ball valve with a 1/4" air fitting on the trailer brake line so I use an air ratchet  with a short socket.  Long one won't let me get the socket off when bolt has been spun out.  Or use offset ratcheting box shown in the rear of the photo.

The deck needs to have backing plate, under bolt holes...mine has .5"

One thing which may differ from one truck to another is the net deck width...this will alter things a bit but he overall plan will be the same.

Are you going to winch it or drive it on?

 

R

Howdy Roger,

Thanks for the photos, I plan to winch on and off.

Dave

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8 minutes ago, rdickinson said:

Do you want pics of the winch and 'A' frame  installation?

Howdy Roger,

I would like photos of whatever you can share, there is no sense in reinventing the wheel if I can learn from what others have done it will make the job of setting up my own truck much easier.

Dave

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HZVTRuWl.jpg

2 ton Warn winch rt side of truck.  There is a manual switch inside the compartment as well as a receptacle to take an 8' cord which was relocated to the drivers side for convenience.  Winch also comes with a wireless remote.  Winch has Kevlar cable.

Originally the winch was a single direct pull but it was jerky so with it having plenty of cable, I put a snatch block on the rear of the car in the receiver.  Speed is 1/2 but not jerky and you have more time to turn the front wheels by hand to adjust loading angle.

Others use bigger winches but the direct pull is about 700 lbs.

Shown above are the 2 receivers to accommodate the A frame.  Jack had a singe arm on his 'A' frame, that would be adequate, lighter and easier to store.

gDnwf99l.jpg

Pic of Gen 1, old car with single pull

CnaLsKjl.jpg

Pic of old setup with old car.  2x6 spacer was to get the A frame to stand off from the deck enough to prevent clashing of snatch block and shackle on rear bumper.

B62vEDEl.jpg

Same A frame with extensions and cross web to stand it off deck so no more clashes

Edited by rdickinson

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Unfortunately with my new Smart I have no center pull point. Only 1 toe bolt hole. So I drive mine on and off

Edited by GlennWest

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10 minutes ago, rdickinson said:

HZVTRuWl.jpg

2 ton Warn winch rt side of truck.  There is a manual switch inside the compartment as well as a receptacle to take an 8' cord which was relocated to the drivers side for convenience.  Winch also comes with a wireless remote.  Winch has Kevlar cable.

Originally the winch was a single direct pull but it was jerky so with it having plenty of cable, I put a snatch block on the rear of the car in the receiver.  Speed is 1/2 but not jerky and you have more time to turn the front wheels by hand to adjust loading angle.

Others use bigger winches but the direct pull is about 700 lbs.

Shown above are the 2 receivers to accommodate the A frame.  Jack had a singe arm on his 'A' frame, that would be adequate, lighter and easier to store.

gDnwf99l.jpg

Pic of Gen 1, old car with single pull

CnaLsKjl.jpg

Pic of old setup with old car.  2x6 spacer was to get the A frame to stand off from the deck enough to prevent clashing of snatch block and shackle on rear bumper.

B62vEDEl.jpg

Same A frame with extensions and cross web to stand it off deck so no more clashes

Howdy Roger,

Thanks for the photos, they make it so clear what has to be done and give a very good idea of how to do it.  If there is a way to do it on this web site I think threads like this should be "stickyed" somehow so folks can find this sort of information quickly.

Dave

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FgQP7b8l.jpg

k2Fo4u4l.jpg

WjgEdn5l.jpg

EuXWKJAl.jpg

So did mine but we managed to pull it off.  Plus I've seen several variations of the same thing recently, even one in the same RV park, so don't let anyone say it can't be done... proof is the pics and a years use with no fails.

 

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