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Replacing Orings in push in fittings


dennisvr

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What is the procedure for replacing the Orings and colletts in the push in fittings?  I need to replace a couple that are leaking in the park brake valve.  Thought I would ask before destroying a $250/$400 valve.

"It is better to have more truck than you need than to need more truck than you have"

2001 Volvo 660, Cummins 400 ISX, Eaton 3 Peddle Auto Shift    
2014 Fuzion 40' Toyhauler
2015 Smart Car                                                                                                                                                                          

                                                                                                            

 

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Take out the collet (metal piece) with your fingers or grabbing edge with needle nose pliers, use dental pics (from Harbor Freight) to “dig out” old o-ring. Sometimes they can be hard and brittle so be sure and get all the pieces.  Center of connector will have small tube that will go inside airline for rigidity (it is solid in fitting and won’t come out with dental pics) so don’t be concerned.  Clean connector with alcohol and q-tip or pipe cleaner and blow dry with air.  Insert proper new o-ring ( sometimes requires manipulation with dental pics, not sharp point).  Reinsert collet, cut off bit of airline past old indention from collet, be sure cut is square.  Securely push back in connector and pull back slightly to get collet to catch.  Not a hard job and the collets can be cleaned and re-used if not damaged.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018A1X1VA/ref=asc_df_B018A1X1VA5298872/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395009&creativeASIN=B018A1X1VA&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193227207088&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17704666764576378080&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013361&hvtargid=pla-373160725397

Edited by SuiteSuccess

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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Thanks
I've got the Orings so now I have to get the time to dig in and get these air leaks fixed.  I should have asked if I had to replace the colletts at the same time.  I thought I did and Volvo said I had to order a package of 10 at $2.95 ea.  Lesson learned, ask questions from the experts on the forum first.
Carl, I think I got the #s from one of your posts and Volvo said a few of the #s were mix up. I think it was the 3/8, they said the oring # was for the collett and vise a versa.  I really applicate your post with the PNs, I don't think my Volvo dealer would have found them. 
Thanks again

"It is better to have more truck than you need than to need more truck than you have"

2001 Volvo 660, Cummins 400 ISX, Eaton 3 Peddle Auto Shift    
2014 Fuzion 40' Toyhauler
2015 Smart Car                                                                                                                                                                          

                                                                                                            

 

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Dennis,

Have to give credit to MrSeas for the parts numbers.  He originally posted them.  I posted the Harbor Freight picks I got.  Don’t get the heavy duty ones.  They don’t work as well as the flimsy ones.  I actually took one of them and using needle nose pliers turned a tiny hook on the tip so it would grab the ring.

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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Dennis you don't need to replace the collets unless they are broken or a leg (??) is bent up badly (you can do that removing they). Just be sure that you have at least 1 spare for when you drop one because they are next to impossible to find. I had an extra thanks to Mr.Seas and I needed it. Now I carry spares.

Changing is just like Carl said. I did find that on a hard O ring that it came out easier if you use a small screw driver and cut the O ring. Then fish out the pieces. 

Brad

Brad and Jacolyn
Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier
2009 Smart "Joy"
2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo"
2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition
VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218"
Fulltiming and loving it.

 

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21 minutes ago, HERO Maker said:

Depending on which air system you are on, get rid of all air everywhere so the lines aren't pressurized.  Pump your brakes if need be (as Carl and I found out).

Yep, air lines will not come out easily if the line is pressurized.  Would also recommend buying a set of these.  Makes life much easier and you will use them a lot.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lisle-Air-Line-Disconnect-Set-5-Piece-LIS42400/207010907?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|google|&mid=sBW7BiWnK|dt_mtid_8903tb925190_pcrid_195274179091_pkw__pmt__product_207010907_slid_&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsbazreiE2AIVikoNCh06bwYzEAQYBSABEgKX5PD_BwE

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
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Looks like it will be awhile before I get to fixing the leaks.  Just got done building a dump truck and now I've got about 75 ton of rock to haul and spread.  That may keep me busy for a few days.  
Thanks for all the tips.

 

"It is better to have more truck than you need than to need more truck than you have"

2001 Volvo 660, Cummins 400 ISX, Eaton 3 Peddle Auto Shift    
2014 Fuzion 40' Toyhauler
2015 Smart Car                                                                                                                                                                          

                                                                                                            

 

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9 hours ago, GlennWest said:

Does this work with the brass DOT fittings? I just been buying new ones. they are a little pricey. Understand a manifold though. need to practice on something.

Glenn,

I have changed an o-ring on a brass fitting also.  Same procedure.

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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I think it would be helpful if someone posted the list of part numbers in this thread....I cannot find them at the moment...

 

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

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2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
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10 hours ago, Jack Mayer said:

I think it would be helpful if someone posted the list of part numbers in this thread....I cannot find them at the moment...

 

Here's the post I got them from.  Volvo told me that a few were mixed up so you should verify what the part is when you order.

"It is better to have more truck than you need than to need more truck than you have"

2001 Volvo 660, Cummins 400 ISX, Eaton 3 Peddle Auto Shift    
2014 Fuzion 40' Toyhauler
2015 Smart Car                                                                                                                                                                          

                                                                                                            

 

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Here's another post from MrSeas with the PNs.

MrSeas

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Go to the dealer and get the replacement parts for the push in connector. There is an "0-ring" and a brass collet that are replaceable. The O-ring is a greenish-blue color
Here are the Volvo part numbers:
1/4 O-ring 85108484 price $0.48 (each) come in a bag of 10
1/4 brass collet 85108476 price $ 2.86 (each)
3/8 O-ring 85108485 price & 0.56 (each) come in a bag of 10
3/8 brass collet 85108477 price $ 3.10 ( each)
1/2 O ring 85108486
1/2 brass collet 85108475
To replace the parts is pretty straight forward.
Please release all the air pressure in your system before attempting this repair!
1. Depress collar on fitting and remove line.
2. Remove brass collet. I use a pair of needle nose pliers.
3. Remove O-ring. Sometimes a bit of a challenge. I use a set of " dental picks" one straight and one with a 90" bend at the end. Use the picks to remove the O-ring. Most times it will be dry rotted and come about in prices. Make sure to remove all of the pieces. Insert new O-ring and be careful not to damage it.
4. Insert collet. Most times I will use the old one if it is still in usable shape. Most times the o-ring is the cause of the leak.
5. Trim off the end of the line before inserting into the "rebuilt" fitting. I like to do this when ever I have enough slack in the line. Sometimes it's not possible. When inserting the line into the fitting press the line in until it "bottoms" out in the fitting before you pull back on it to lock it in.
6. Pressure up your system and check for leaks. Sometimes a little wiggle on the line after it is pressurized will help it seat.
After this less costly repair attempt you may still have to repair/replace your pass-thru.
Good luck!

 

On Edit: These instructions were written with the "Newbie" in mind.... Lots of folks have already been down this path. Not trying to get anyone upset. This is how I do this type of repair. No need to buy the "gold plated" Volvo brass fittings if I can just repair it.

In most cases the "fitting" is fine it's just a worn out O-ring.

Edited August 16, 2015 by MrSeas

 

"It is better to have more truck than you need than to need more truck than you have"

2001 Volvo 660, Cummins 400 ISX, Eaton 3 Peddle Auto Shift    
2014 Fuzion 40' Toyhauler
2015 Smart Car                                                                                                                                                                          

                                                                                                            

 

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Thanks for the re-post :)

 

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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  • 2 years later...
On 12/14/2017 at 8:12 AM, dennisvr said:

Here's another post from MrSeas with the PNs.

MrSeas

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  • MrSeas
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Go to the dealer and get the replacement parts for the push in connector. There is an "0-ring" and a brass collet that are replaceable. The O-ring is a greenish-blue color
Here are the Volvo part numbers:
1/4 O-ring 85108484 price $0.48 (each) come in a bag of 10
1/4 brass collet 85108476 price $ 2.86 (each)
3/8 O-ring 85108485 price & 0.56 (each) come in a bag of 10
3/8 brass collet 85108477 price $ 3.10 ( each)
1/2 O ring 85108486
1/2 brass collet 85108475
To replace the parts is pretty straight forward.
Please release all the air pressure in your system before attempting this repair!
1. Depress collar on fitting and remove line.
2. Remove brass collet. I use a pair of needle nose pliers.
3. Remove O-ring. Sometimes a bit of a challenge. I use a set of " dental picks" one straight and one with a 90" bend at the end. Use the picks to remove the O-ring. Most times it will be dry rotted and come about in prices. Make sure to remove all of the pieces. Insert new O-ring and be careful not to damage it.
4. Insert collet. Most times I will use the old one if it is still in usable shape. Most times the o-ring is the cause of the leak.
5. Trim off the end of the line before inserting into the "rebuilt" fitting. I like to do this when ever I have enough slack in the line. Sometimes it's not possible. When inserting the line into the fitting press the line in until it "bottoms" out in the fitting before you pull back on it to lock it in.
6. Pressure up your system and check for leaks. Sometimes a little wiggle on the line after it is pressurized will help it seat.
After this less costly repair attempt you may still have to repair/replace your pass-thru.
Good luck!

 

On Edit: These instructions were written with the "Newbie" in mind.... Lots of folks have already been down this path. Not trying to get anyone upset. This is how I do this type of repair. No need to buy the "gold plated" Volvo brass fittings if I can just repair it.

In most cases the "fitting" is fine it's just a worn out O-ring.

Edited August 16, 2015 by MrSeas
 

 

I need a part number for 1/8” collet and oring please. God bless you guys, this is going to

save me alot of money and work. 

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2 hours ago, Parrformance said:

I have yet to run across to a 1/8 in Airline, what does it go to?

 

Pressure gauges on the dash.

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
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