Av8r3400 Posted December 8, 2017 Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 There's a lot more experience here than I have on my own, so I want to pose something that I saw on Facebook and have been thinking myself, for a while. I have a toy hauler without the rear patio option. I didn't want the expense or the loss of space for the railings and stairs. My UTV just fits in my garage now. However, I've been thinking of putting on stabilizing cables to use the ramp as a limited patio. I don't want to have a party with 20 people on there, I just want the ability to sit on a lawn chair with my DW and a cold beverage, above the bugs. I don't want to add the railings and all that, either. My dealer says this is impossible and will wreck the door, I need to buy the complete patio door kit, to the tune of several thousand dollars. I feel the urge to call shenanigans on this. As a recovering engineer, I can't wrap my mind around how a ramp that can hold a 2500 pound load between the ground edge and the hinge, but can not hold a 500 pound (at the very most) load from stay cables at the mid point. I would even be open to making the cable brackets longer than the small u-brackets normally used. What I mean, instead of a 4" long u-shaped bracket why not make the bracket 24 or even 48" long. 1 x 2 x 3/16" is 3 pounds per foot, making a 4 foot piece only 12 pounds (24 for both sides), yet adding considerable strength to the door frame. Has anyone done this or had a look on the inside of their own ramp/patio door to know what the difference in construction is? Thoughts or comments? Av8r34002012 Volvo VNL 730 D13 iShift & 2021 Grand Design Momentum 397TH I'd rather die trying to live - Than live trying not to die. -Leonard Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueLghtning Posted December 8, 2017 Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 I want to do this also and am on the same mind set as you. I doubt they build the doors any differently between the non porch models. I had a buddy do this to his and had no issues. Dan (Class of 2017) - 2012 Ram 3500 & 2005 Alpenlite Valhalla 29RK Contact me at rvsolarconsulting.com or Two Wheel Ramblin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALLOY Posted December 8, 2017 Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 I agree. A door that carries a 2500lbs vehicle should carry 1250lbs at the center of the span. Wood blocks or slide stabilizer under the outside edge will work https://www.etrailer.com/tv-Demo-Stromberg-Carlson-Trailer-Jack-JB-20.aspx Do you have a link to the kit or the part number? I'd like to see what it entails. 2011 Cameo 34SB3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8r3400 Posted December 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 The kit quoted to me was right from the manufacturer and was a new door and the stay cables. Something like $4200. Av8r34002012 Volvo VNL 730 D13 iShift & 2021 Grand Design Momentum 397TH I'd rather die trying to live - Than live trying not to die. -Leonard Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennisvr Posted December 8, 2017 Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 I have done this to mine years ago with now ill effects. What I did was installed eye bolts on the ramp about 3/4 the length of the ramp away from the hinge and used chain instead of cable with S hooks. I lower the ramp and if I want to use it as a deck I hook the chains with S hooks to the eye bolts and set outside having a cold one. I don't think I would want to hold a dance party on it, but it works great for me and the wife. "It is better to have more truck than you need than to need more truck than you have" 2001 Volvo 660, Cummins 400 ISX, Eaton 3 Peddle Auto Shift 2014 Fuzion 40' Toyhauler 2015 Smart Car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALLOY Posted December 8, 2017 Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 Each door is built differently. When we looked at used toy haulers on some the perimeter frame on the doors had twisted where the cable attached breaking the sealant on the outside. We didn't look long at Toy Haulers so I never found out if these doors were screwed and glued or welded. Some of the alum is .040" which is hard to make any connection to. 2011 Cameo 34SB3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotoes Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 I would contact the manufacturer of the ramp. Mytoy hauler was a Cyclone built by Heartland with a Lippert ramp. I had the patio option. I have seen people with Smart Cars drive up the ramp. I think they were having separation problems. But the weight of two people and two chairs should be no problem. I never had any problems with driving a Harley up the ramp in five years of ownership. 2015 Itasca Ellipse 42QD 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Hard Rock Edition 2021 Harley Street Glide Special Fulltimer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Star Dreamer Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 I am sure the cables would work if you already have the spring assist cables on the sides of the door but another alternative would be to just use a couple of adjustable jack stands at the end of the door to raise it to a level position. Put some padding on the top of the stand so it does not scratch the outside of the door. Dave 2005 Freightliner Century S/T, Singled, Air ride ET Jr. hitch 2019 46'+ Dune Sport Man Cave custom 5th wheel toy hauler Owner of the 1978 Custom Van "Star Dreamer" which might be seen at a local car show near you! Check out http://www.hhrvresource.com/ for much more info on HDT's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beyerjf Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 I am with Star Dreamer on this. A couple of well placed jack stands, if you can figure out how the door is framed internally, and place them there. I have thought about installing some folding legs to the door itself, when it is lowered they could be deployed if you want the porch, left attached to the door if you don't. That way you aren't hunting jack stands, one more thing to pack. And the legs could be adjustable in length for uneven terrain. Jeff Beyer temporarily retired from Trailer Transit 2000 Freightliner Argosy Cabover 2008 Work and Play 34FK Homebase NW Indiana, no longer full time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpcoll01 Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 These might not be beautiful on the outside but would be quicker than jack stands and just as sturdy. I have a set on the back of my enclosed trailer and they are slick. https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack/etrailer/TJ01RT-HD.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8r3400 Posted December 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 The stand idea is okay, but would require leveling the door and a bunch of messing around to set up. Stay cables are pretty simple and the deck would be level if the trailer already is. There would be some playing around to make them up originally, but once made, it would be quick to set up at camp. I"m thinking along the lines of instead of the small 4" long, aluminum "U" shaped cable bracket mounted to the door, making this from 1 x 2" x 3/16" wall steel tube, miter cut at the ends for looks, with a port in the middle for the cable to attach through. I could make these tubes 36 or even 48" long to distribute the weight on the side of the door, using four bolts on each side. Thoughts? Comments? Av8r34002012 Volvo VNL 730 D13 iShift & 2021 Grand Design Momentum 397TH I'd rather die trying to live - Than live trying not to die. -Leonard Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob91yj Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 I'm a desert rat at heart, I have an enclosed car hauler in addition to our TT and have numerous friends with true toy haulers. We've been using the ramps on our trailers as a patio for years before it occurred to the manufacturers that they could charge extra for a "patio". I drive a 5000 pound Jeep into my car hauler on a regular basis with no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8r3400 Posted December 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 Yup. All these comments are reenforcing my original thoughts: This shouldn't be an issue. Especially if I do a load spreading mount like I described... Av8r34002012 Volvo VNL 730 D13 iShift & 2021 Grand Design Momentum 397TH I'd rather die trying to live - Than live trying not to die. -Leonard Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALLOY Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 1 hour ago, Av8r3400 said: The stand idea is okay, but would require leveling the door and a bunch of messing around to set up. Stay cables are pretty simple and the deck would be level if the trailer already is. There would be some playing around to make them up originally, but once made, it would be quick to set up at camp. I"m thinking along the lines of instead of the small 4" long, aluminum "U" shaped cable bracket mounted to the door, making this from 1 x 2" x 3/16" wall steel tube, miter cut at the ends for looks, with a port in the middle for the cable to attach through. I could make these tubes 36 or even 48" long to distribute the weight on the side of the door, using four bolts on each side. Thoughts? Comments? If the build of the door checks or is reinforced the chain and eye bolt idea that dennisvr uses is the best. Cable may stretch allowing the the door to bounce. If the strength of the door is a concern expand on dennisvr idea and use 2 eyebolts and 2 chains on each side to reduce the point loads. One of the chains on each side will need a turnbuckle. A high tech solution is 1/8" Amsteel rope. It is good for +/-2500lbs and has less stretch than cable. 2011 Cameo 34SB3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmup68 Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 if concerned about pulling from the outside edge, run a piece of angle across the outside of the door, side-to-side to support load across the whole door. Attach the cables, amsteel rope to the angle when door is down. 2003 International Eagle 9200i, Cummins ISX, Freedomline 2007 Teton Scottsdale XT4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8r3400 Posted December 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 I should have said, my idea for using the tubing would run vertically along the sides of the door, keeping the center unobstructed. Also, my door uses a "watch spring" hinge for operational assist rather than a recoiling cable or some other means to that the weight off the door to open and close. Av8r34002012 Volvo VNL 730 D13 iShift & 2021 Grand Design Momentum 397TH I'd rather die trying to live - Than live trying not to die. -Leonard Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALLOY Posted December 11, 2017 Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 14 hours ago, Av8r3400 said: I should have said, my idea for using the tubing would run vertically along the sides of the door, keeping the center unobstructed. Also, my door uses a "watch spring" hinge for operational assist rather than a recoiling cable or some other means to that the weight off the door to open and close. hmmm......the spring would mean there is less side to side strength which is needed to suspend the door along the edges. My next thought would be to suspend the door from the back edge. Any chance the manufacture would provide drawings/details of the door? 2011 Cameo 34SB3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noteven Posted December 11, 2017 Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 On 12/9/2017 at 9:41 AM, beyerjf said: I am with Star Dreamer on this. A couple of well placed jack stands, if you can figure out how the door is framed internally, and place them there. I have thought about installing some folding legs to the door itself, when it is lowered they could be deployed if you want the porch, left attached to the door if you don't. That way you aren't hunting jack stands, one more thing to pack. And the legs could be adjustable in length for uneven terrain. This ^. My C-Force's door has a number of springs along the hinge that get wound up as the door lowers. Simple. The door supports it's load by the hinge and the top of the door which is on the ground during vehicular ingress and egress operations.* I would place Jeff's adjustable attached deck post legs at the top of the door. If placed closer to the hinge you would have to do extensive beam and cantilever calculations so as not to tip the toyhauler right over. *Engineering terms for loading and unloading stuff. "Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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