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ARGO

AIR LEAKS-I give up!

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I have been over this truck with soapy water, and even bought a Whisper. Found some small ones, but this thing still loses 90% air within a couple hours, both tanks 1&2.  There were mentions of leaks at the tanks from rust. I have douche'd them several times, and stuck the Whisper in every crevice and hole close to the tanks, no luck. Now understand, I put this thing together almost every bolt & screw, damned if I can find it. Checked ALL the obscure fittings in the pass thru, under the dash, air seats, ad infinitum.  For those that replaced tanks, what was the clue?  Don't want to drop them if I should see/hear SOMEthing first  

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Don't know what your truck is.  If it is an auto-shift, try the Whisper on the top/rear of the transmission.  I had to get the Whisper right up above the tyranny to find it, and it was a big leak.

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Where the tanks sit in the straps are where they are prone to rust or corrode thru.  Check your air governor and dryer thoroughly.  If you're losing air on front and rear brake systems, then you have a leak somewhere in the dryer to tanks to dash valve area.

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Sorry all. Volvo 610 w/Cummins. (Therefore no ex brake controller).  Yeah, it's an AS, I'll try the trans top more thoroughly (again). Rear susp- tks, but have a pillow under there for naps because I check it so much. Ditto on the fan clutch, tks.  

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Argo,

Air leaks are a real PITA. I once had one I could hear on the front frame rail. Ended up being a straight line push in connector buried in the middle of a bundle of electrical and airlines. Thanks to sclord2002, he had small enough hands to reach in and get it. My big hands couldn’t reach it from above or below. Good luck 😊

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Do you have a way to hook a compressor to the truck to charge the air?  Use the truck to get everything aired up, Shut truck off, hook a compressor to the truck and move compressor away as far as you can to help eliminate noise.  This will give you full pressure longer to find leaks.  The longer a leak runs, the slower and quieter it becomes.

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I'm 10 miles north of the Baltimore killing zone.

I can air up the truck by engine or compressor, but "in the still of the night" cannot hear any. OK, I'm old & deaf but I can hear the Whisper and it doesn't alert even way up. I'll try the trans top again, but seems like the only area I haven't gotten RIGHT UP NEXT TO are the tanks. I'm ready to submerge the truck & watch for bubbles...........

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Argo, are you using headphones with your Whisper? I ask because some use it without them and you can't hear anything and have to rely on the lights. With a good set of headphones, I can hear a small leak from 10' away and I have a severe hearing loss.

As large as your leak is, you should be able to hear it easily.If nothing else, try a younger pair of ears :)

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You oughta check out the headphones (I have Peltor's) cops use at shooting ranges. They amplify the sound quite a bit, enough that when I tried out my pair in the hotel the night before the range, I could hear the folks in the next room (and this was at a nice Marriot with real walls) talking and carrying on.

I'd wager that with those, you'll hear the hiss.

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Used the Whisper w/ headphones, entire truck. Found several small leaks, but nothing like what would result in complete air loss in that short a time.  Now for the good news- the seats and rear suspension stay up maybe 18 minutes longer than the #1 tank. Should I buy a lottery ticket?

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Look at the check valves on your front and rear tanks.

 Sometimes shaving cream in place of soapy water will “show” smaller leaks. 

Lots of valves will leak internally and make it hard to find. 

Cummins ISX check the turbo actuator control valve... sliver box, drivers side below the air compressor. Follow braided line over to turbo and check for leaks.

Engine fan hub and associated lines and connections.

Parking brake valves and lines are bad apples for leaking.

Above the air tanks located on the inboard side of the frame rail is a “brake control valve”. Looks like a junction box of lines. Gen 1 Volvo’s have 6 lines going in and out and Gen 2 have 8. Leaks internally all the time. Some airtank fittings have a protective boot to keep out crud. These sometimes will mask a leak.  

Sometimes you need to “wiggle” the air lines a bit to hear the leaks.

Temperature changes will also reveal new leaks.

If you do find a PTC fitting leaking you can usually repair it by replacing the o-ring inside instead of buying a new fitting.

As mentioned air bags and leveling valves can leak and drive you crazy! You can inflate your bags to “reveal” the bottom edge and check for weather cracking. Lots of bags look ok but need replacing.  

If you can “isolate” your front and rear tanks you can get a better picture of what may be causing your leaks. Front system includes a lot of your accessories, such as seats. Rear is mainly rear brake system and such.

Do you have an air ride hitch?  Check it out.

Just thinking out load....

 

 

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Tks for the tips. Cummins N14, Jake brake no air actuator. Checked under truck extensively, max brakes both on & off w/wheels blocked. Air ride hitch has positive shut off valve.

Keep coming with the ideas pls.

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I don't know what transmission you have, but it could be a range shifter piston o-ring, but I think you'd be able to hear a very muffled slight hiss at the bottom of the trans housing.

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Argo      I had to replace my tanks because, as stated before, they were leaking around the straps. 98 610 w/N14 Cummins and a super 10 trans. We could hear the leaking. When I took the straps off there were holes the size of quarters. No weld repair new(used alum tanks from Eubanks in Richmond Va $100) ones replaced and air would hold for 2 days but now it leaks down over night. I will probably look in early Apr. We spent 7 1/2 wks on the road and no real problems.  We are in Chesapeake Va.   Pat

 

 

The Old Sailor

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On ‎12‎/‎3‎/‎2017 at 1:56 PM, Shallow Draft said:

check the exhaust brake controler. Mine leaked and I think it exhausts into the exhaust pipe so it is hard to detect.

That is exactly where mine was leaking, and it does exhaust into the exhaust pipe.  I have replaced just about every thing, and still have some leaks, SOMETIMES!!!  Other time the truck holds air fairly good.   I also gave up.  Good luck.     

Dick T

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Another trick that works to locate a problem leak, is to isolate parts of the truck, like front, transmission, air tanks,  rear suspension.  With the firewall manifold you can unhook lines and insert a plug.  Or temporarily cap off a line.

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Kids bubbles works great for finding leaks. I have an 84 Peterbilt-holds air for week-seats for months-air bags a good month. Bags should stay up even if tanks loose air. Same for seats. Air can back feed thru air compressor. Air horn valve in headliner can be bad.

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Part of my job fixing HVAC equipment, lends me lots of leak finding products.

I have used HVAC leak detector bubbles with great success. Tracked down all the leaks, not I just need to fix them.

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