Has this stunt happen to you ?

[MrSeas]

Opps!

[alan0043]

34 minutes ago, MrSeas said:

The switch panel mounted on the drivers door is the “controller” for the power windows, power door locks, and the power mirrors. It is easy to change out. It just “snaps” out from the top of the door panel. Pop it out and get the part number off of it and order a replacement. It’s an easy part to get on-line  I replaced one for a passenger window that stopped working. 

Hi MrSears,

When you replaced your controller was it in a Gen 2 truck ? If it was, did you have to pull the whole door panel off ? Or just work on the top side ?

Thank you for any help,
Al

[MrSeas]

Gen  2 Truck. Did not remove door panel. Switch panel just snaps into its mounting cavity. I just gently pried it out from the top starting at the end closest to the door opening lever. 

[alan0043]

2 hours ago, MrSeas said:

Gen  2 Truck. Did not remove door panel. Switch panel just snaps into its mounting cavity. I just gently pried it out from the top starting at the end closest to the door opening lever. 

Thank you for the help and Happy Thanksgiving.  

Al

[Pete Kildow]

Makes me feel better now. Was test driving mine yesterday. Going around a curve, hit the button to roll the pass window down. Door pops open, after fixing the door latch rod. Now when I try to roll the window down. It opens the pass door. 

[Stickman81]

Mr. Al -

Is this what your switch assembly looks like?
https://www.carid.com/2012-volvo-vnl-window-components/dorman-window-switch-543375458.html

Here is one at a much better price.
https://www.amazon.com/Geennorahs-Master-Control-20752918-2154389/dp/B06XXDB6W8

Perhaps remove the switch assembly and clean the connector on the bottom as well as the switch assembly itself as best you can with some electrical contact cleaner?  It might be worth a shot.
https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=contact+cleaners&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=233518497485&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15194146700588516279&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010915&hvtargid=kwd-119050885&ref=pd_sl_2w814ycu5a_e

I have disassembled one switch assembly before from a 2007 F150.  The contacts for the switch had some corrosion built up on the contacts.  I was able to clean them with an eraser and it fixed the problem.

Best of luck!

[ICPete]

I always wore a lanyard around my neck that held my second key. So I could leave the one key in the ignition with the engine running while locking the doors at a rest stop, gas station, etc. Of course I did have to remember to wear that lanyard whenever I took the truck on the road...

I guess if I had had locking fuel caps, I would have put their key on the same lanyard.

[alan0043]

On 11/24/2017 at 10:23 PM, Stickman81 said:

Mr. Al -

Is this what your switch assembly looks like?
https://www.carid.com/2012-volvo-vnl-window-components/dorman-window-switch-543375458.html

Here is one at a much better price.
https://www.amazon.com/Geennorahs-Master-Control-20752918-2154389/dp/B06XXDB6W8

Perhaps remove the switch assembly and clean the connector on the bottom as well as the switch assembly itself as best you can with some electrical contact cleaner?  It might be worth a shot.
https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=contact+cleaners&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=233518497485&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15194146700588516279&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010915&hvtargid=kwd-119050885&ref=pd_sl_2w814ycu5a_e

I have disassembled one switch assembly before from a 2007 F150.  The contacts for the switch had some corrosion built up on the contacts.  I was able to clean them with an eraser and it fixed the problem.

Best of luck!

Hi Jim,

Thank you for posting the info on the door controls. The info is going to be a big help. I got back Sunday afternoon from camping with my grandson. I was ready for the truck to does it's stunt. The truck did not let me down. lol. It locked it's self but I was ready this time. But now the truck has a new problem that I will post a thread about looking for help.

Al

[alan0043]

Hi Everyone,

Here is a little update about the door controls. I was able to pull the controls out of the door with the help from MrSeas. Here is the kick in the pants. I had the controls  from the drivers side removed from the door. Guess what happen. You got it. I shut the drivers door with the controls in my hand and heard the door lock it's self. When the truck does this, it happens to both doors. I have the controls in my hand how can the truck lock both doors at the same time ? I am at a lost. Where do I go from here ? It seems like the truck likes to lock it's self after you shut the drivers door.

Please more insight,
Al

[Pat & Pete]

Shouldn't the battery be disconnected while working on electrics ? 

As for the thing locking while you had the drivers door control in hand , what about the passenger door control ? Maybe it acts as a 3 way switch ?

[rickeieio]

1 hour ago, alan0043 said:

Hi Everyone,

Here is a little update about the door controls. I was able to pull the controls out of the door with the help from MrSeas. Here is the kick in the pants. I had the controls  from the drivers side removed from the door. Guess what happen. You got it. I shut the drivers door with the controls in my hand and heard the door lock it's self. When the truck does this, it happens to both doors. I have the controls in my hand how can the truck lock both doors at the same time ? I am at a lost. Where do I go from here ? It seems like the truck likes to lock it's self after you shut the drivers door.

Please more insight,
Al

Well, I hope you had that extra key handy.

Given the symptoms,  I'd look for a wire in the door that's got a bare spot, making contact when the door slams,

[alan0043]

1 hour ago, rickeieio said:

Well, I hope you had that extra key handy.

Given the symptoms,  I'd look for a wire in the door that's got a bare spot, making contact when the door slams,

Hi Rick,

I learned my lesson about the key. I had the key in my pocket. I thought maybe something like a wire got rubbed thru. Will have to pull off the door panel and look for the wires. It also seems to be something.

Al

[Stickman81]

As mentioned, perhaps a wire shorting out, or, a bad relay.  However, I find it odd the system operates without the switch installed.

Be that as it may, below is a link to a manual for interiors on the VN trucks.  Perhaps the door panel removal / replacement section is applicable to your truck?  I see it starts on page #9.
http://www.hhrvresource.com/VolvoDocs/80-86/PV776-TSP133527.pdf

Link to the manual for door latch handle replacement -
Starts about page #50.
http://www.hhrvresource.com/VolvoDocs/80-86/PV776-TSP144737.pdf

Some random thoughts -
Also check any pass-thru areas for the harness for damage.
Check connector pins for security and free of corrosion.
Check your grounding points.
Check the battery connections.
Find the relay / fuse / circuit breaker locations and ensure proper contact, free of corrosion and try resets if applicable.

Beyond that, I am unable to find anything to troubleshoot the electric lock system and, even electric lock general information.

Best of luck sir!

[Seniramsu]

Hello Al,

I had this happen to me a few times, figured I was going to dig into it this winter and figure out what was going on. As a matter of fact, I had a few weird electrical issues happening.

Do you have a battery cutoff switch? I ended up removing the cutoff switch and bolting the positive wires directly together. All my issues have cleared up (now as I write this, I'll probably go out there and they will all show up again) but it's something easy to try and see if it helps. 

Going to buy a new switch and install this winter. The contacts looked a bit oxidized on my old one. 

Best of luck!

Brad

[alan0043]

12 minutes ago, Seniramsu said:

Hello Al,

I had this happen to me a few times, figured I was going to dig into it this winter and figure out what was going on. As a matter of fact, I had a few weird electrical issues happening.

Do you have a battery cutoff switch? I ended up removing the cutoff switch and bolting the positive wires directly together. All my issues have cleared up (now as I write this, I'll probably go out there and they will all show up again) but it's something easy to try and see if it helps. 

Going to buy a new switch and install this winter. The contacts looked a bit oxidized on my old one. 

Best of luck!

Brad

Hi Brad,

The truck does has a factory battery shut off switch. The interesting thing is that cut off switch is located on the drivers side under the door area. Never thought of looking at the cut off switch.

Here is another thought for you guys. When coming home from the nationals while driving thru St.Louis the drivers side mirror decided to move on it's own. I think both problems are connected. The way I fixed the mirror was to remove the fuse.

 

Hi Jim ( Stickman 81),

Thank you for the links. I will check them out.

Please keep the ideas coming,
Al

[Stickman81]

I found a wiring diagram.  Not certain to what years / models it is applicable to but it may help with some trouble shooting.
https://www.volvotrucks.ca/-/media/vtna/files/shared/body-builder/wiring-diagrams/volvo-12volt-2013-bp-includes-us17_21849527_08_1.pdf

My schematic skills are lacking.  I have not found anything that is obviously common to the mirror power and the lock power.

 

[Stickman81]

As stated, my schematic skills are lacking.
However, pending on how power is passed through the Door Control Module, it appears possible that the door lock motors could be activated with either control switch removed.

 

[Stickman81]

So the only thing I see in common is the Driver's Side Door Control Panel [switch].

This still does not address the locking issue of the doors locking with this switch removed.

My under-educated WAG's, in no particular order...
* shorted / grounded wire.
* Bad / corroded / loose relay [possibility of three from what I can see].
* Bad Driver's side control panel [switch].
* Bad Door Lock Control Module.
* Loose / corroded connection [pin or terminal] for power or ground.

I know it's not really specific but, it will give you something to chew on while you are consuming an adult beverage and pondering the meaning of life. 

 

[alan0043]

On 11/30/2017 at 12:38 AM, Stickman81 said:

So the only thing I see in common is the Driver's Side Door Control Panel [switch].

This still does not address the locking issue of the doors locking with this switch removed.

My under-educated WAG's, in no particular order...
* shorted / grounded wire.
* Bad / corroded / loose relay [possibility of three from what I can see].
* Bad Driver's side control panel [switch].
* Bad Door Lock Control Module.
* Loose / corroded connection [pin or terminal] for power or ground.

I know it's not really specific but, it will give you something to chew on while you are consuming an adult beverage and pondering the meaning of life. 

 

Hi Jim,

Thank you for posting the wiring diagram. I also have trouble with a wiring stuff. 

Al

[Steveoreno]

The truck in my avatar did not have a key fob but every once in awhile when you shut the door it would lock. On a side note my toy hauler door did the same then we switched to keyless entry.   Everything we own has a hide a key