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A question for the "Enginner's among us.


mr. cob

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34 minutes ago, noteven said:

Me would vote for this too - makes the bikes and side hacks haulable on the truck etc. 

Keeps driveline grease off the cargo / front of the trailer

Can't fall through it in the dark of a NorWet evening

Keeps the beer cooler off the ground during after-ride bike gazing / story telling... 

etc.

 

Howdy noteven,

Well, I must say with a list of advantages such as you have outlined I can see my way of approaching this dilemma is evolving.

Dave

2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types.  Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/

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I like Glenn's idea of laying angle iron outboard on the frame rails and welding crossmembers to that. The body on my truck is built "converntionally" with C-channel running longijit...longatoot... the same direction as the frame rails, with X members on top then checker plate deck.  The deck gets fairly high made this way.  It is 48" to the deck from the ground. It has steel skirts, tool boxes,  about a 20000lbs tongue load rear reciever :lol:

I'd post a picture but I can't because the forum software doesn't allow iPhone picture size/format by .1 of a mb or something and/or I don't know how. 

 iPhones are rare these days anyways... 

The rear wheel openings are lined with stock off the shelf stainless steel fenders. It looks like Semi-Sane might have the same?

Glenn's way will keep the deck height lower.  You can add strength with deeper sills on the outside or side skirts that have deeper dimension to them. 

A smart-mobile won't fall through the deck. 

You could copy Semi-Sane's body work dimensions and have a fab shop cut out the plate parts for you to weld up. Use as much stock off the shelf fenders and trim and tool box doors as possible... 

One thing about building with mild steel you can change stuff, put holes to hook your ramps on, places to store them, etc. 

If you travel off highway much I would think about mounting your deck with the spring style body mounts used for box vans etc at least at the front so the truck frame can twist like it is made to without putting the torsion 100% into your bed.  The bed can be made lighter and simpler if it doesn't have to try to hold the truck frame straight. 

Build the bed using the truck for the jig... but always keep the "view from the bottom" in mind for access for maintenance and repair...

Be careful welding in the rain they say...

"Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. 

 

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Howdy noteven,

All good points to keep in mind.  My main concern is how to attach the bed frame to the truck frame.  The way the truck I am looking at is laid out there won't be room for side boxes.  On Semi-Sane, the fuel tanks are mounted forward under the cab of the truck and its singled, the batteries are mounted under the deck between the frame rails, the truck I am looking at has the batteries mounted under the cab doors and the fuel tanks mounted behind the battery box and forward of the front tandem axle.  So the way the new truck is built there are no room for boxes.  The ONLY off road driving the truck would ever see is a good dirt road going into or out of a BLM camp ground, the way the front bumper on the truck I am looking at is mounted it would turn into a road grader blade if the bumps were more then a couple of inches high.

One thing that I "WILL" do if I build a deck is make darned sure there is enough clearance for tire chains. On the way to this years National Rally I came down Bozman Pass covered in ice and snow, there isn't enough clearance on Semi-Sane for chains, I carry a pair of "Tire Socks" but have yet to use them.  Coming home on my last trip going over Snoqualime Pass covered in slush while it was snowing was not a pleasant experience but I pushed on as the weather was getting worse and once on the other side of the summit it was down hill all the rest of the way home.

Dave

2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types.  Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/

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I didn't put skirts on mine. Started out as a flat bed dovetailed and angle corners. I added boxes closing up gaps. Load ramps on lower back on passenger side. Had small opening left and added ladder so I could get on deck with Teton hooked up. Got room for chains too.

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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2 hours ago, GlennWest said:

Let me know if you got pics. Sent them

Howdy Glenn,

I didn't get any photos, check the email address, its easy to miss the "l" my email address is

dlhooker1@comcast.net

Dave

2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types.  Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/

IMG_4282-600x310.jpg

 

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Hi Dave,

    Just my $.02 worth since we are spending your money. The width difference in the front and back of the smart has already been mentioned. And you said simple and metal and how do I attach it to the truck. If I was going to do it that way (I have a bed) for the track I would get heavy and wide channel OR make my own with heavy angle iron and 1/4" - 3/8" plate to close the bottom. I would just be sure it was heavy enough to stand the weight of driving over the side without bending.

As for attaching to the truck. I'm sure you know not to drill the top of the frame BUT my frame has several holes already existing in the sides. Just bolt a piece of angle through the holes in the frame and weld into the sides of the channel. Not sure how you will attach the ramps to the channel but that should be minor for a man with your exceptional talents. 

Now with all that said, a bed would attach to the truck frame the same way except you would add a spacer to the top of the truck frame. When they built mine they started with approx. 2" x 6" heavy wall (I assume) tubing on top of my frame and ran it the length of the frame rails. That is what is attached to the frame rails using the angle iron and available holes method mentioned above. Then the cross members were welded to that and the plate on top of the cross members. Bingo you have a flat bed and it could be built in place. No real HEAVY lifting.

From there they attached boxes to mine but I don't know the system they used.

Hope this helps some.

 

Brad   

Brad and Jacolyn
Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier
2009 Smart "Joy"
2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo"
2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition
VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218"
Fulltiming and loving it.

 

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But why run tubing and welding brackets to it. Angle iron, drill holes in it to match truck frame holes and weld channel to it. Simple. Less work, just as strong. Only benefit in tubing is to increase height. Do this with channel iron

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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1 hour ago, mr. cob said:

Howdy Glenn,

I didn't get any photos, check the email address, its easy to miss the "l" my email address is

dlhooker1@comcast.net

Dave

Tried again. having to send with phone. Computer not seeing my phone to transfer pics.

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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1 minute ago, GlennWest said:

But why run tubing and welding brackets to it. Angle iron, drill holes in it to match truck frame holes and weld channel to it. Simple. Less work, just as strong. Only benefit in tubing is to increase height. Do this with channel iron

Glenn I only mentioned the tubing as it was used on my bed. Not necessary for just the channel but could make things easier or more convenient for finding holes for a bed build.

 

Brad

Brad and Jacolyn
Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier
2009 Smart "Joy"
2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo"
2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition
VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218"
Fulltiming and loving it.

 

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don't think you are picturing what I was stating. With angle iron it extends down the side of chassis. No welding taps on it for bolting. Just drill hole in it lining up with existing chassis holes. 

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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Howdy All,

Again my THANKS to all who have posted to this thread, I am starting to get a real good idea of how and what to do when it comes time to make this happen.

Dave

2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types.  Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/

IMG_4282-600x310.jpg

 

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2 minutes ago, GlennWest said:

don't think you are picturing what I was stating. With angle iron it extends down the side of chassis. No welding taps on it for bolting. Just drill hole in it lining up with existing chassis holes. 

Sometimes my 'picturer' don't work real well.

Brad and Jacolyn
Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier
2009 Smart "Joy"
2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo"
2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition
VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218"
Fulltiming and loving it.

 

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1 minute ago, GlennWest said:

don't think you are picturing what I was stating. With angle iron it extends down the side of chassis. No welding taps on it for bolting. Just drill hole in it lining up with existing chassis holes. 

Howdy Glenn,

I understand what your talking about, sounds, easy and strong also provides a good solid platform to weld spacers or cross beams to.

Dave

2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types.  Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/

IMG_4282-600x310.jpg

 

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Norman with the big Green Volvo has his Smart loaded on just 2 single channels. He didn't want a bed as he wanted to keep that clean look with those big chrome fenders he has. He used to be a car hauler so that's what he setup for his Smart with just the 2 channels. Now granted his is a 16-17 model where the wheels are at the same width so that made this a little easier. I think it looks pretty good. I just grabbed these off his FB page, but I'm sure he has better pics. 

Norman_Bed1-L.jpg

Normnan_Bed2-L.jpg

 

Dan (Class of 2017) - 2012 Ram 3500 & 2005 Alpenlite Valhalla 29RK
Contact me at rvsolarconsulting.com or Two Wheel Ramblin

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1 hour ago, BlueLghtning said:

Norman with the big Green Volvo has his Smart loaded on just 2 single channels. He didn't want a bed as he wanted to keep that clean look with those big chrome fenders he has. He used to be a car hauler so that's what he setup for his Smart with just the 2 channels. Now granted his is a 16-17 model where the wheels are at the same width so that made this a little easier. I think it looks pretty good. I just grabbed these off his FB page, but I'm sure he has better pics. 

Norman_Bed1-L.jpg

Normnan_Bed2-L.jpg

 

Howdy Dan,

 

I don't do facebook, I like this setup, does anyone know Norman's screen name or how to get a hold of him so I could get better hopefully more detailed photos?

Dave

2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types.  Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/

IMG_4282-600x310.jpg

 

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Here's a link to photos of my build on Photo Bucket.

Deck Build

Dennis & Nancy
Tucson, AZ in winter, on the road in summer.

1999 Volvo 610 "Bud" 425 HP Volvo, Super 10 spd.
2005 Mountain Aire 35 BLKS
2013 smart fortwo CityFlame riding on Bud
(Replaced '05 smart first loaded in '06

and '11 smart that gave it's life to save me!)
Our Travel Blog

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13 minutes ago, Dennis M said:

Here's a link to photos of my build on Photo Bucket.

Deck Build

Howdy Dennis,

Thanks for posting the photos of your deck build, more good ideas, threads like this are a wonderful learning opportunity for all of us.

Dave

2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types.  Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/

IMG_4282-600x310.jpg

 

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11 hours ago, Mntom said:

I looked at that Norman's design at the rally too and thought it was a 'cool' way of hauling the Smart. I was thinking of doing the same thing but then adding wood to fill in the rest of the bed, but it looks like I am going to go a different direction............

Hi Everyone,

I would also like to see more pictures of Norman's design. I don't do Facebook either. I am still working on my bed design. I like how you can still use the steps on the truck with Norman's idea.

Al

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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Lots of options and great ideas, if you want to stay with a low deck and light weight take a look at the underside of a UHAUL truck box with the extruded aluminum floor. all bolt and rivet construction and they can be modified to your desire cut the box off  shorten etcetera, find one that has been in a low overhead accident and some of the work is already done

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11 hours ago, mr. cob said:

Howdy Dan,

 

I don't do facebook, I like this setup, does anyone know Norman's screen name or how to get a hold of him so I could get better hopefully more detailed photos?

Dave

Hi Dave, I don't remember his name on here, but I sent him a FB message to see if he can reply and maybe add some insight to his setup. 

Dan (Class of 2017) - 2012 Ram 3500 & 2005 Alpenlite Valhalla 29RK
Contact me at rvsolarconsulting.com or Two Wheel Ramblin

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Glenn,

I agree weight is a benefit, but weight forward could be a disadvantage with a singled or long wheel base truck. the aluminum UHAUL  pieces have several advantages that make them interesting the light weight would allow more weight to be carried at the rear of the bed, the ease of modifying and lack of need of paint to preserve them are all pluses or could be depending on your wants and wishes

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When I bought my truck, it already had a flatbed on it. The PO had added pre-fabbed tool boxes to both sides behind the rear axle. It has 4" channel on top of the frame rails, with plate bolted into existing holes on the frame and welded to the channel. 3" channel was then welded crosswise to the 4" channel, then plate was welded onto that. Very simple design, and built in place on the truck.

 

I would like to lower it in the rear so it will clear the landing gear on my trailers a little better. Would also like to lower the hitch mount, since mine is now mounted on top of the plate. The angle mounted to the side of the frame would allow me to drop it at least 4". Hmmm

 Sometimes it is easier to build to your needs than it is to retrofit your needs to something already built.

Chris & Tonya

'99 Freightliner FLD120, '01 Wabash Toyhauler (32' garage, 20' LQ)

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