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Hi John 

if you look at Nitto Tire's website as an example and pick a tire like the Dura Grappler then go to the 17" sizes, they have a few load ratings and you can kinda see how the index numbers relate. 

They will all be called range E but actual ratings can vary 100's of pounds.

How you shop tires among preferred brands by load index is beyond my patience level in motorcycle ridin weather 😎

Edited by noteven

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What I want to know is why do tires only have a five year lifespan before they go to pot. I had two TOYO tires lasted 6 yrs and as I was headed for AZ I noticed on one rest stop that those two were running hot which really had me wondering why.  So traveled 100 miles to next rest area and one of them went flat while looking at it.   Dont even ask what Good Sam Roadside didnt do for me at a Sacramento rest area on a Sunday/  I am in the middle of contesting the cost of having two tires mounted by a service truck approx 5 miles away and the tire prices doubled from price I located in Sacramento for very same tire !

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UPDATE after internet and phone call research, so far the HIGHEST load rated tires in LT 225 75 R 16 Load Range E tires I have found are:

Michelin LTX MS2 with a rating of 2679# in single and 5110# when used as duals

My current Firestones are rated at 2640 # and 4940 when used as duals

The Michelins (plus other things I'm doing) can bring me within spec although its still not within the extra safety margin I prefer. A diet and re distribution is underway and since I cant fit a LT 235 I am considering upgrading to the Michelin tires. I keep my tires properly inflated and check them at each stop so will do a bit more looking then make my decision

THANKS SO MUCH TO ALL who contributed and Thanks to Escapees and their Smart Weigh program

John T, Retired Electrical Engineer but like I said NOT A TIRE EXPERT

 

 

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On 11/8/2017 at 5:42 PM, oldjohnt said:

UPDATE after internet and phone call research, so far the HIGHEST load rated tires in LT 225 75 R 16 Load Range E tires I have found are:

Michelin LTX MS2 with a rating of 2679# in single and 5110# when used as duals

My current Firestones are rated at 2640 # and 4940 when used as duals

The Michelins (plus other things I'm doing) can bring me within spec although its still not within the extra safety margin I prefer. A diet and re distribution is underway and since I cant fit a LT 235 I am considering upgrading to the Michelin tires. I keep my tires properly inflated and check them at each stop so will do a bit more looking then make my decision

THANKS SO MUCH TO ALL who contributed and Thanks to Escapees and their Smart Weigh program

John T, Retired Electrical Engineer but like I said NOT A TIRE EXPERT

 

 

Continental builds a 225/75R16 European designed tire with a Vanco brand in load range E rated at 3195# @ 83 PSI (121/120R E). It’s a highway all-season radial and very popular on class B and smaller class C RVs. General also builds the same tire with those specs.

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10 hours ago, TireHobby said:

Continental builds a 225/75R16 European designed tire with a Vanco brand in load range E rated at 3195# @ 83 PSI (121/120R E).

   I just went to a Continental website, they list the VANCOFOURSEASON at 3197 per tire THATS THE HIGHEST LOAD INDEX 120 IVE FOUND SO FAR

https://www.carid.com/continental-tires/vancofourseason-479224.html?child_id=77631477&vehicle=418

 Thanks Tire Man, I will check them out....

John T

Edited by oldjohnt

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When you hear "package"    they are right.  the weight is first borne by the tire rubber on the bottom of the tire, that transfers to the air inside the tire and that pressure effects the rim as well, it can blow if overloaded.  You do know what pressure the rims are rated for , right?

That weight is transferred to the wheel lugs to the end of the axle and then through the wheel bearings to the axle housing.  That weight is transferred to the springs system (shackles, clamps, bolts hangers etc) and then to the frame of the vehicle.  (I am sure I missed something.)

ALL of these items are engineered (hopefully) to handle the weight rating for the vehicle.  As in any chain, the total strength is dependent upon the strength of the weakest part of the system.  The vehicle capability can NOT be increased by improving only one or a even a few of the above parts.

Sorry but as usual "there ain't no such thing as a free lunch" 

 

Happy trails and enjoy the adventure!

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9 hours ago, mscans said:

Sorry but as usual "there ain't no such thing as a free lunch"

AMEN Mike I agree 100%. No sorry required, its a FACT  lol

  That's why I'm now researching ANY AND ALL upgrades and improvements and weight reduction and weight re distribution  etc etc etc. In a short time and AFTER I have completed some of the foregoing I'm going to have a Reweigh to see where I stand then. Of course, being safety conscious as I can I'm studying higher load rated tires (among other possible upgrades) and even if after I make improvements and go on a diet I'm within all factory ratings, I will STILL where possible and feasible and reasonable make improvements ABOVE AND BEYOND minimum ratings "including but not limited to" tires alone that have a higher load rating then those I now have. Thanks to the great gents above and my research I have discovered THERE ARE TIRES OF THE SAME SIZE with higher load ratings compatible with and my rims/wheels, which I may still upgrade to EVEN IF my old tires are within my after diet and redistribution new weight specs, THATS JUST HOW IM WIRED LOL better safe then sorry, hard to fault that in my humble opinion. I have some RV buddys that are content and satisfied so long as they meet the MINIMUM safety standards and tease me for looking for things that EXCEED those standards claiming its not needed and expensive,  but to each their own is my position, ever watch any of the failures or go bad videos on You Tube YIKES !!!!!!!!!!!! or experience a tire blow out I HAVE ...............   

Indeed, you're exactly correct there's NO FREE LUNCH believe, me I've been pricing upgrades and improvements,  ITS NOTTTTTTTT FREE LOL  

Thanks again Mike, pleasure chatting with you

John T

Edited by oldjohnt

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John,

good for you.  heading in the right direction.  your best bet is have the weight and distribution taken care of and other items such as tires and spring "pieces" the best you can get and well maintained. 

Can't make a battleship from a rowboat!

 

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1 hour ago, mscans said:

your best bet is have the weight and distribution taken care of and other items such as tires and spring "pieces" the best you can get and well maintained. 

Thanks Florida Mike. I will probably do the Smart Weigh re weigh when I pass through Sumter Oaks SKP at Bushnell Florida in December at which time I think my diet and redistribution will bring me within all factory specs (Front, Rear, Total, Gross, Axles, tires, etc. etc.) but as I've been preaching to myself lol I don't like to operate just on the very edge so will look FIRST at tires and rims/wheels and springs or overloads or air  bags or air shocks NONE OF WHICH I REALIZE MAY RAISE THE FACTORY LIMITS ONE IOTA  (cant make a battleship from a rowboat HUH) but if I'm in spec and then do as you suggested (best you can and well maintained)  I will just feel and sleep better and practice what I preach lol. For example my Firestone TransForce Load Range E tires are rated at 2940# single 80 PSI while the Continental VANCOFOURSEASON  225/75R16C 121 R are rated 3195# at 83 PSI. 

Even though I "cant make a battleship from a rowboat" I am gonna try to make Cadillac out of a Chevrolet LOL and get within all specs PLUS have heavier rated components then I now have and heavier then factory equipped !!

 

I winter a lot in Sebring and Avon Park area, where in Florida will you be this winter ??

 

John T  Currently in Austin Texas

Edited by oldjohnt

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3 hours ago, oldjohnt said:

Even though I "cant make a battleship from a rowboat" I am gonna try to make Cadillac out of a Chevrolet LOL and get within all specs PLUS have heavier rated components then I now have and heavier then factory equipped !!

I agree with your statement and being safety conscious when running on the ragged edge, I dow't want a tire to blow so monitor,, TPMS

Clay

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On youtube I've seen a video by some one that speaks very highly of his tire choice. Search "big truck big rv" and in the choices hit the youtube... it'll be a most recent one titled "Regrets? 2yrs with our Coachmen Chaparral ...".

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On ‎11‎/‎13‎/‎2017 at 4:54 PM, oldjohnt said:

Thanks Florida Mike. I will probably do the Smart Weigh re weigh when I pass through Sumter Oaks SKP at Bushnell Florida in December at which time I think my diet and redistribution will bring me within all factory specs (Front, Rear, Total, Gross, Axles, tires, etc. etc.) but as I've been preaching to myself lol I don't like to operate just on the very edge so will look FIRST at tires and rims/wheels and springs or overloads or air  bags or air shocks NONE OF WHICH I REALIZE MAY RAISE THE FACTORY LIMITS ONE IOTA  (cant make a battleship from a rowboat HUH) but if I'm in spec and then do as you suggested (best you can and well maintained)  I will just feel and sleep better and practice what I preach lol. For example my Firestone TransForce Load Range E tires are rated at 2940# single 80 PSI while the Continental VANCOFOURSEASON  225/75R16C 121 R are rated 3195# at 83 PSI. 

Even though I "cant make a battleship from a rowboat" I am gonna try to make Cadillac out of a Chevrolet LOL and get within all specs PLUS have heavier rated components then I now have and heavier then factory equipped !!

 

I winter a lot in Sebring and Avon Park area, where in Florida will you be this winter ??

 

John T  Currently in Austin Texas

John, I live in the Apopka area (nice state park here by the way) but don't get out due to health issues.  I do "travel" vicariously through the Escapee magazine and several blogs,  I do miss the RV life!

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